TEAmiN 


E  IiKS" 


•**%%%%!tf^ 


AROUND  miE 
i^MDDlCESEA 

d 


..^,»  ■   ♦ « 


.-^'^^''jS'MI 


**l 


THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

PRESENTED  BY 

PROF. CHARLES  A.  KOFOID  AND 

MRS.  PRUDENCE  W.  KOFOID 


r  o' 


'^\ 


\    D    '1^    ■ 


«r 


"Steamin'  to  Bells" 
around  the  Middle  Sea 


The  Allerites'  own  book 


By 
ALFRED    J.   P.   McCLURE,  A.  M. 


PUBLISHED   BY  THE    COMPILER 
MCM 


"'  i' 


Copyright  1900,  by  Alfred  J.  P.  McClure 


Aatie  i'g  (Seorge  t}  Kucbanan  ar.A 
Companc  at  tbe  Sigit  of  tbe  tvt 
%eat  in  Xtbrars  Street  l>biU»cIpbia 


1 

To  my 

daughter 

ABBY 

who 

bravely 

staid  at 

home, 

while 

all  the  rest  went 

sailing. 

1 

All  you  my  friends  who  now  expect  to  see 

A  piece  of  writing  here  performed  by  me, 

Recall  my  lease,  upon  a  distant  shore 

To  garner,  cull  and  print  and  do  no  more. 

Cast  pleasing  smile  on  this  my  compilation, 

Pardon  its  faults  and  give  the  writers  commendation. 


CONTENTS   AND  ILLUSTRATIONS 


PAGE 

Preface,         ..........  9 

Baggage,  9.      By  the  Wharf,  10.    "Alphaand  Omega,"  11. 

Parting  Words,     .........  13 

"  Now  we're  off",  good  bye,  good  bye,"    13- 

The  Start,    ..........  17 

"  The  ship  goes  sailing  down  the  bay,"  17.  "  Staunch 

and  strong  a  goodly  vessel  "  18. 

The  First  Breakfast,  .........  18 

Breakfast  Menu   February  6th,  19.  Dining  Room  Seat 

Card,  19. 

Second  Uav  at  Sea,  (Rhyme)  ......  20 

"  I  am  leaning  o'er  the  rail,"    20. 

Table  Experiences,  Seasickness  and  the  Like,   .         .         ,         21 
Lunch  Menu,  February  7  th,    21. 

"  In  the  GlooiMing,"     ........  22 

"And  the  footsteps  of  the  steward.  Softly  come  and  softly 
go,"    22. 

Bibliography  of  the  Mediterranean  Region  in  General,     .         23 

Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Things,  ....  24 

"And  Clark  smiled,"    24.  "The  skipper    he    stood 

beside  the  helm,"  25.  Our  Band,  26.  "  How 

sweet  it  were  with  half  shut  eyes,"  27.  A  Group 

of    Menu   Cards,    28.  The    Music  of    the    Bugle 

Calls,  29.         Lost  and  Found,  30.         "In  the  after- 
noon they  come  unto  a  land,"  31. 

The  Gallant  Fourth  Oi'Ficfr,      ......         32 

The  Fourth  Officer,  32. 

Amusements,  ......  ■  ■  •  33 

Diversion,  33. 

The  Azores  and  Portugal,  Bibliography,     ....  37 

Off  the  Azores,  37.  Our  Lawyers,  39. 

Letter  from  the  Honorable  S.   M.   Cutcheon,  40 

The  Coast  of  Portugal,         .......         40 

Point  St.  Vincent,  41.  The  C'oast  of  Portugal,  42. 

Verses  Writ  ON  St.  Valentine's  D.\v,  ....         42 

The  Rolling  Ball  at  Sea,     .  .         .  .         .  .  .         43 

1 


M313103 


Contents  and  Illustrations 


Spain,   Gibraltar,   Alhambra,   Granada,  The  Moors,  Bibli- 
ography-,        .........         47 

Verses    Carved  on  a  Stone  Sentry  Box  at  Gibraltar,  47. 
Gibraltar  Permit  from  Chief  of  Police,  47. 

Gibraltar,  Alhambra,  and  the  Moors.     A  Lecture,       .         .         48 
"  Like  a  huge  British  Lion  reclining  in  watchful  attitude," 
48.  "  Honeycombed  with  galleries  and  bristling 

with  canon,"  49.  "  Great  Guns,"  50.  Neutral 
Strip — Bull  Ring — Gateway — Rock  Window — Parade 
Ground,    51.  "The    Pillar   of    Hercules    looms 

above,"   53.  In  the  Sierras,  55.  Our  Spanish 

Carriages,    56.  On  to  Granada,   58.         The  Al- 

hambra,   59.  Alhambra  Gate — Lunch    Table — 

Interior,   61.  "Like  a  cloud  of  rare  old   yellow 

lace,"    62.  Alhambra    Columns,   64.         Concert 

Program,  February   14th,  66.  Order  for  the  Day, 

February  i6th,  Alhambra  Trip,  66.  The  Court  of 

the  Lions,  67.  Malaga  from  the  Citadel,  68. 

An  Experience  at  Malaga,  ......         68 

Hotel  Washington  Irving  Lunch  Card,  69.  Time-table 

Granada  to  Malaga,  70. 

Algiers,  Bibliography,  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         73 

French  Front,  73.  An  Arab   Trader,  74.  A  Street 

in  Algiers,    74.  The  Square — A   Street — Harbor 

View,  75.  A  Street  Costume — On   Donkey-back, 

76.  Around  the  Garden  of  Plants,  77.  "Ghosts 
and  Allerites,"  78. 

Sea  Forms  Neither  Strange  nor  Curious,  ....         78 

Pennsylvania  Day,         ........         79 

Introductions  by  General  Craft,        .....         79 

Address  of  Col.  Seltzer,     .......         79 

Menu,  February    18th,    79.  A  Street   in   Algiers,   80. 

The  McKeesand  Gibsons,  81.         Typical  "  Kee-sto- 
'       ann"  Natives,  83. 

Address  by  Major  Reinhold,       ......         85 

More  Pennsylvanians.         "  There  are  others, "  86. 

Malta  Bibliography,     ........         89 

Malta  :  A  Lecture  Delivered  on  Shipboard,  ...         89 

Order  for  the    Day,    February   2 2d,    89.  Four   Malta 

Views,  90.  On  the  Way  to  Citta  Vecchia,  92. 
Malta  Harbor,  95. 

Malta  More  Fa.miliarlv,      ...         .         .         .         .         .         97 

Railroad  Ticket   to   Citta  Vecchia,   97.  Cathedral  at 

Citta  Vecchia,  98. 

Citta  Vecchia,  St.   Paul's  Bay,  etc,    .....        100 


Contents  and  Illustrations 


PAGE 
lOI 

102 

109 
III 


"In  a  Moment  of  Exhilaration,"       .... 

Washington  and  Ideals.    An  Oration,  ... 

North,  South,  East  and  West,  104. 

Italy,  Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii,  Bibliography,    . 

Naples,  ......... 

Five  Views  of  Naples,  no.  Order  for  the  Day,  Febru 

ary    20th,    11  r.  "From    door    to    door,"     112 

"Up"    to    Hades,    113.  "  Funicolare,"     114 

The  Crater,  115.  Naples  and  "  The  Old  Smoker, ' ' 
116.  Soldiers — A  Priest,  117.  "Funicolare" 

Car  Ticket,  117. 

Up  Vesuvius  on  Donkey  Back,     .  .         .         .         .         .118 

A    Policeman — Funicolare    Asino    Ticket,    118.  The 

Buried  City,  119. 

Pompeii,         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .119 

Forum — Stepping  Stones — In  the  Streets  of  Pompeii,  120. 

Egypt,    Alexandria,    Cairo,    Pyramids,    The  Nile,    Biblio- 
graphy, .....  •         .        123 

The  Land  OF  THE  Nile  AND  THE  Pharaohs.      A  Lecture,         .        126 
Pompey's  Pillar — Program  for  Egypt,  126.         Past  and 
Present,  127.         "  Past  oldest  works  of  human  hands, 
Itself  more  ancient  still — The  Nile"  (six  views),  128. 
Five  Egyptian  Ovals,  129.  The  Army  of  Occupa- 

tion at  the  Step  Pyramid,  130.  Entrance  to  the 
so-called    Tomb   of    Rameses    II.,     131.  "The 

Pharaohs  of  the  Bondage  and  the  Exodus"  (three 
cuts),  132.  "  She  hath  the  whole  horizon  for  her 

hoop,"  133.  Father  Nile,  134.  "  Still  through 
Egypt's  desert  places  flows  the  Lordly  Nile  "  (four 
views),  135.  Market-place  by  Nile  Bridge,    136. 

"In  Clover,"  137.  The  Shadoof — Sakeiyah — The 
Dancing  Girls,  139.  A  Shadoof,  140.  A  Lemon- 
ade Vendor — Woman  with  Yashmak — Package  (?) 
Carrier — Water  Carriers  (two  cuts),  141.  A  Street 
in  Cairo,  142.  Jugs  and   Jugglery,    143.         The 

Citadel    and    Alabaster    Mosque,    144.  En  ranee 

to  the  Citadel,  145.  Another  View  of  Citadel  and 
Mosque,  146.  Nile  Boats,  147.  The  Bloomington 
Feat  at  the  Alabaster  Mosque — A  Dahabeah,  148. 
Cheops    the    Great,    149.  "Still    the    Pyramids 

imperious  pierce  the  cloudless  skies"  (four  views), 
150.  The  Beautiful  Accacia  Drive — Chefron,  151. 
"  Across  the  Green  Meadows  to  Cheops  and  Chefron  " 
— A  Mixed  Company,  152.  Climbing  the  Man-made 
Mountain,    153.  On   the   Side  of  the  Pyramid — 

"High  on  a  Throne  of  Royal  State,"  154.  The 
"Apex  "  of  an  Allerite's  Ambition  (four  views),  155. 
"And    the    great    Sphinx    stares    with    mysterious, 


4  Contents  and  Illustrations 

PAGE 

The  Land  of  the  Nile  and  the  Pharaohs — Continued 

solemn,  stony  eyes,"  156.  The  great   Mohamme- 

dan University — Corner  of  Gizeh  Museum — On  the 
way  to  Thebes — Mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan,  157. 
Interior  of  the  Mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan — A  Funeral  in 
Cairo — Court  of  Alabaster  Mosque — A  Street  Scene, 
158.  Rameses   at    Memphis — "Old  in    the  days 

of  Abraham,"    159.  The  Step  Pyramid  Beggar — 

Where  We  Had  Lunch — At  the  Feet  of  the  Sphinx, 
160.  Mohammedan  School,  161.  The  Suez 
Canal,  162. 

An  Incident  on  the  way  to  Thebes,   .....        162 
"  She  " — Backsheesh,  162.      Fellaheen — On  the  Nile,  163. 

The  Nubians  at  Luxor,        .         .         .         .         .         .         .164 

An  Oriental  Skipper,  164.  "Her  Lord  and  Master," 

165. 

Syria,  Jerusalem  and  thereabouts,  Bibliography,        .         .        169 

The  Jaffa  Episode,       .         .         .         .         .         .         »         .171 

The  Jaffa  Harbor,  171.         Disembarking  at  Jaffa,  172. 

Jerusalem  and  the  Land  of  Promise.     A  Lecture,       .         .        173 
In  the  Streets  of  Jaffa,  173.         A  Corner  in  Jaffa,  174. 
The  House  of  Simon  the  Tanner,  175.  The  Well 

of  the  Magi,  176.  The  Hill  of  Zion  and  the  Road 
from  the  Station,  177.  Dama.scus  Gate  (two  views), 
178.  Mount  Moriah,  179.  The  Church  of  the 

Holy    Sepulchre,    181.  The  Tombs  of  the  Kings 

(two    views),    183.  The    Mosque  of  Omar,    184. 

Interior  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  185.  Jerusalem 

from    the    Mount   of    Olives,    187.  Lepers,    189. 

Lepers,  190.  In  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  (two 
cuts),  191.  The  Garden  of  Gethsemane  and  the 
Mount  of  Olives,    193.  "  Hie  de  Virgine  Marie 

\    Jesus  Christus  Natus  Est,"  194. 

Mv  Irreverent  Donkey  at  Olivet,         .         .         .  .         .195 

The  Quarries  of  Solomon,    .         .         .         .         .         .         .196 

Entrance    to    the    Quarries   of   Solomon,     196.         The 
Tomb  of  Absalom,  197. 

Description  of    the  Masonic  Meeting  in  the  Quarries   of 

Solomon,         .         .         .         .  .         .         .         .197 

Church  of  the  Lord's  Prayer  (two  cuts),    188.  Lord's 

Prayer    Tablet,     Slavonic,     199.  Lord's    Prayer 

Tablet,  Turkish,  200.  Ticket  of  admission  to  the 

Pool  of  Bethesda,  201. 

Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea,     .......        202 

The  Valley  of  the  Jordan,  202.         At  the  Dead  Sea  (three 
views),   204.  Two  Hoosiers  on   Jordan's  Stormy 

Banks,  205. 


Contents  and  Illustrations 


PAGE 


r 


Through  Samaria  and  Galilee  on  Horseback,  .  .  .  206 
His  Arab  Steed,  207.  Toml)  with  the  Stone  Rolled 
Away,  209.  Lunch  and  a  Snap  Shot  between 
Showers,  210.  Shiloh,  211.  Jacob's  Well, 
212.  Mount  Tabor,  213.  "Tickling  the 
earth  with  the  old-fashioned  one  pronged  plough," 
214.  A  Pause  for  Lunch  and  Photograph,  215. 
Mary's  Well  at  Nazareth,  216.  Down  to   the  Sea 

■     of  Galilee,  217.         The  Sea  of  Galilee,  218. 

Asia  Minor,  Beirut,   Damascus,  Smyrna,    Ephesus,    Bini.io- 

oraphy  ..........       223 

Beirut,  223.  Dr.  Bliss,  225. 

Damascus,      ..........       225 

On  the  Way  to  Damascus,  226.  The  River  Barada — 

General  View  of  Damascus — Straight  Street  Bazaars, 
227.  Court  of  a  House  in  Damascus,  228. 
Place  Where  St.  Paul  Was  Let  Down  the  Wall,  229. 

Smyrna,  ..........       229 

"Little     Breeches" — -'Look     pleasant,    please,"     230. 
Site  of  Ephesus,  231.         At  Ephesus,  232. 

Ephesus  and  the  Church  of  St.  John.         A  Lecture,  .         .        232 
Ruins  of  the    Church  of  St.    John,    233.  Mosque  at 

Ephesus,  234.  A  Modern    Diana,  235.  Ephe- 

sus "Is  one  with  Nineveh  and  Tyre,"  237. 
Mosque  at  Ephesus,  238.  Ancient  Aqueduct — 
The  Home  of  the  Stork,  239. 

The  Mock  Trial  of  W.   R.  Hamilton,  ....        240 

"Said  and  Aforesaid  Aliased   Hamilton,"  241.         Cor- 
nered, 243. 

Constantinople,  Bihliooraphv,      ......        245 

On    the   Bosphorus    in     Front    of   the  Old   Palace,    247. 
Interior  of   the  Mosque    of    St.    Sojihia,    248.  \ 

Glimpse    of    the    Black    Sea,     249.  Mostjue    of 

Sultan  Ahmed,  250. 

Address  of  Professor  Van  Millinoen,         ....        251 
Galata  from  Stamboul  and  the  Famous  Bridge  of  Boats, 
252.  The    Sublime    Porte — Saint     Sophia — Tree 

of  the  Janissaries,  253. 

The  Dogs  of  Constantinople,        ......       254 

Street  Dogs  Galore,  254. 

Constantinople  .\rt  Treasures,    .         .  .         .  .         .255 

Street  in  Front  of  Mosque,  256. 

The  Bosphorus  and  Robert  College,  ....        258 

Members  of  the  Harem,  259. 

Athens,  Greece.  Bibhographv,        .  ,  .  ,         ,        263 


6  Contents  and  Illustrations 

PAGE 

An  Historic  Sketch  of  Athens.         An  Address,  .        .       364 

The  Acropolis.  Order  for  the  Day  March   22,    265. 

Temple  of  Athena,  266.  Theatre  of  Herod,  268. 

Theatre  of  Dionysos,  269.  The  Captain  on  Mars 

Hill,  270.         Mars  Hill,  271.         The  King's  Pal- 
ace, 272. 

Athens  More  Familiarly,     .         .         .         .         .         .         .273 

Greek  Soldier,  273.         A  Funeral  in  Athens,  274. 

Rome.         Bibliography,         .         .         .         .         .         .         .277 

The  Pantheon.     .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .278 

"The  Parliament  Temple  of  all  the  Gods,"  278.  Tiber 
— Forum — St.  Peter's  Dome — Castle  of  St.  Angelus — 
Colosseum,  279. 


The  Colosseum, 

• 

. 

280 

Long  View  of  the  Colosseum, 

280. 

Interior  of  the 

Colosseum,  282. 

The  Appian  Way, 

. 

.    ■      •          ■          • 

283 

The  Appian  Aqueduct,  284. 

The  Forum,           .... 

. 

<          •          •          • 

284 

View  of  Forum,    285.  Hadrian's  Bridge  and  Tomb, 

286.  St.  Peter's,  287.  Interior  of  St.  Peter's, 

288. 

The  Vatican,         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .       289 

Interior  of  "St.  Paul's  outside  the  Walls,  "  290. 

Rome  More  Familiarly,       ........       290 

Cloisters  of  "St.  Paul's  outside  the  Walls,"  291. 
More  "  Cloister  Galleries,"  292.  "Under  Cano- 
pies of  Bone  upon  Bone  Couches,"  293.  More  of 
the  Cappuccini  Cemetery.  Concert  Programme, 
294. 

Logs — Nautical,  Edible,  Social,  .....       295 

Address  of  Geo.  Waldo  Smith,  Esq.,  upon  the  Presenta- 
tion OF  Watch  and  Purses  to  Captain  and  Officers,       297 
"To  Carry-her  Pigeons  into  View,"  297.  "Fog  on 

Foto,  Face  and  Film,"  298. 

Resolutions,  .........       300 

Obituaries,  .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         301-302 

The  Voicfes  from  the  Engine  Room,  .         .         .         .       302 

"Vilhelm,"   302.  The  Captain's  Dinner  Menu,  304. 

Concert  Programme,  Last  Evening  on  Vessel,  304. 

Craft's  Retrospective  Rhymes,    ......       305 

"  O'er  seas,  with  these  on  knees,"  306. 


Contents  and  Illustrations 


Nearing  Home  and  Last  Experiences,         .         .         .         . 
Campo  Santo,  Genoa,  307.         The  Three  Graces,  308. 
"Two   souls   with    but    a    single    thought,"     309. 
"  And  so  the  dreamy  days  went  by."  310 

Conductors  and  Officers,  .         .         .         .         .         . 

Transcript  of  the  Aller's  Nautical  Log, 
Last  Log  Bulletin  Posted,  313. 

The  Edible  Log,  Transcript  of  the  Purser's  Record, 

Map   of  the  Route,    316.         Sailing   Chart,  facing  316 

The  Value  of  Travel,  ...... 

The  Infatuation  of  It, 

Passenger  List,     ........ 

Pictures  of  Passengers,  319-329. 

Good-bye,   ........ 

Index,     ......... 


page 
307 


3" 
311 

314 

317 
317 
319 

330 
331 


PREFACE 

HIS  is  the  record  in  Kipling's  phrase  of 
"  Steamin'  to  Bells  "  around  and  in  literal 
speech  "  the  Middle  Sea."  A  middle  sea, 
indeed,  of  the  realm  of  history,  art,  architec- 
ture, philosophy,  poetry,  sculpture,  religion  : 
the  cradle  of  all  these  in  their  beginnings. 
Back  to  this  region,  yet  the  world  in  every  department  of 
learning  still  turns  for  first  principles  and  for  inspiration. 

It  is  the  record  of  a  pleasure  trip,  a  compilation  of  lectures 
delivered  on  ship  and  land,  of  incidents  and  impressions,  but 
principally  telling  the  story  of  places  and  persons  comprehen- 
sively and  profusely  by  pictures  taken  on  the  spot. 

It  is  an  effort  to  fasten  unique  experiences  and  fleeting 
impressions  of  pleasant  sights  and  friendly  associations  so  that 
they  may  be  recalled  with  pleasure  and  the  cruise  lived  over 
again.  It  is  neither  solemn  nor  learned,  indeed,  the  effort 
has  been  made  to  avoid  that  "  profundity  and  impressive 
incomprehensibility  which  belongs  properly  to  scientific  ex- 
peditions "  or  to  certain  historical  travel  books  which  attempt 
to  accurately  set  down  and  philosophically 
interpret  facts  for  their  readers.  We  all 
realized,  I  hope,  how  slight  and  superficial 
and  probably  inaccurate  were  our  impres- 
sions ;  how  deceptive,  how  likely  to  be 
untrue  from  so  brief  a  sojourn,  so  swift 
a  voyage. 

It  is  the   record  of  an  unusually  har- 
monious party,   enjoying  a  picnic  around  ' 
the  shores  of  a  wonderful    sea.     And  in 

passing  let  me  say  that  one  may  travel  many  times  across  the 
ocean  without  meeting  such  a  number  of  cultured,  refined  and 
gentle  people  as  were  here  gathered  together  on  one  ship. 
One  who  was  both  a  traveler  and  a  cultured  gentleman  said  : 
"  I  have  crossed  the  ocean  fifty-five  times  and  never  have  I 
met  a  more  agreeable  company  ol  people,  more  genuine  and 
unaffected,  more  courteous  and  kindly."   This  spirit  of  the  party 


We  lived  in  these 

White  on  the  seas 


to 


Preface 


as  a  whole  was,  no  doubt,  ministered  to  by  many  causes  : 
the  courteous  treatment  and  unwearied  attention  of  the 
officers,  stewards  and  sailors  ;  the  unquestioned  effort  on 
the  part  of  the  management  to  meet  all  reasonable  needs  and 
requirements  ;  the  lectures  diverting  the  minds  or  rather  lead- 
ing the  minds  and  attention  of  the  people  to  profitable  and 
interesting  matters  ;  these,  with  the  incomparable  weather 
encountered  on  all  seas,  made  our  excursion  notable  and  in 
retrospect  of  almost  unalloyed  pleasure. 

If  there  were  those 
who  found  annoyances  I 
am  sure  the  recollection 
has  been  swallowed  up  by 
the  multitudinous  mem- 
ories of  pleasures  enjoyed 
in  sights  and  sounds 
unique  and  strange. 
There  is  always  an  un- 
paralleled opportunity  on 
a  great  excursion  of  this 
kind  for  friction  and  an- 
noyance, but  a  placid 
mind  meeting  these  as 
other  difficulties  of  life 
can  extract  the  good  and 
leave  the  ill,  which  often 
means  self  and  selfishness 
behind. 

One  of  the  great 
heathen  philosophers  who 
lived  around  this  very  sea  said  :  "  It  is  a  great  folly  not  to 
part  with  your  own  faults  if  possible,  but  to  try  instead  to 
escape  from  other  people's  faults  which  is  impossible."  And 
then  to  be  sure  there  are  some  who  have  never  learned  to 
admire  righdy,  for  as  Thackeray  says:  "The  great  pleas- 
ure of  life  is  that,"  and  says  Wordsworth:  "We  live  by 
admiration,  hope  and  love."  Only  of  a  few  of  our  party  could 
it  be  said  as  1  homas  Carlyle  put  it: 

"A  foolish  baby  vainly  strives  and  fights  and  frets, 
Demanding  all,  deserving  nothing,  one  small  grave  is  all  he  gets." 


'  The  eddies  and  dimples  of  the  tide 
Play  around  the  boni>s  of  ships 
That  steadily  at  anchor  r!de."—Longfeltov) 


Preface 


U 


And    now   as    to    the    compilation.     I    have    avoided    de- 
terminedly mere  guide  book   directions  and  notes,  and  for  this 
reason  the  proffered  guide  booklet  of  one  of  our  lecturers  in  lieu 
of  the  promised   manuscript  was  discarded.     1  have,  however, 
made  a  special  point  of  the  books  of  reference  to  the  Mediter- 
ranean  region,  and   for  this  I  am  sure   intelligent   members  of 
our  party  will  heartily  thank  me.     It  has  been  no  small  labor  to 
look  up  and  verify  and  select  these.     In  making  the   selection 
of  books  I   have  been  greatly  assisted  by  the   Encyclopaedic 
manuscript  list  prepared  by  W.  Maitland  Abell,  M.  A.,  L.  L.  M., 
of  our  party,  entitled  "Itinerary  for  Intellectual  Excursions  into 
the  Great  Realm  of  Literature,  Descriptive  of  the  Art,  Archae- 
ology, History,  Life  and  Scenery  of  the  Mediterranean  Region." 
Of    course  my     list    is   not    complete    and    readers    will 
find   the    names    of  certain   books  lacking.       In    the   arrange- 
ment of  the  lists,    books   of    general    description   and  travel 
come     first,     then      Historical,     Archaeological,    Art,    Eiction, 
Periodicals,    etc.      I   have   tried  to  choose    for    young    as  well 
as  old  and  in  the  order  of  our  cruise.     Einally,  as  I   made  the 
selection  of  books  I  was  increasingly  impressed  with  the  large 
number  of  valuable  and  instructive  works  on  this  region  and 
driven  more  and  more  to  silence,  more  and  more  to  abundant 
references  and  apt  quotations  from  the  Allerites  when  I  could 
get  them.     Working  along  these  lines  with  the  abundance  of 


Alpha  and  Omega 


J  2  Preface 

material  poured  in  upon  me  in  the  way  of  pictures  and  other 
matter  (for  which  I  give  unbounded  thanks),  I  could  think  at 
last  of  no  other  word  than  a  congestion,  which  the  Century 
Dictionary  defines  as  "  gathering  or  heaping  together  or  forming 
a  mass  ",  and  this  word  must  be  my  only  apology  to  the  over 
critical  for  both  manner  and  matter.  I  have  a  good  hope, 
however,  that  even  if  the  matter  is  not  all  it  might  be,  the 
numerous  pictures  with  which  it  is  accompanied  will  be  well 
worth  looking  at,  and  that  the  book  will  recall  the  three  sue 
cessive  pleasures  of  travel,  viz.:  preparation,  enjoyment  and 
retrospection.  One  word  in  regard  to  the  pictures  ;  in  many 
cases  I  have  chosen  preferably  the  amateur  photographs  sent 
me  illustrative  of  the  matter  in  hand,  giving  the  atmosphere 
and  environment  of  the  tour ;  this,  however,  required  the  use 
of  pictures  indistinct  or  lacking  in  sharpness  of  outline,  mak- 
ing it  impossible  to  produce  the  cuts  one  would  desire.  I  have, 
however,  felt  that  the  flavor  of  the  cruise  in  these  pictures  war- 
ranted their  production  even  though  imperfect.  With  these 
reflections  I  pass  the  book  over  to  you  dear  Allerites  hoping 
that  the  compilation  may  hold  for  you  the  memory  of  an  incom- 
parable voyage,  of  associations  unmatchable  on  board  the  dear 
old  ship,  when 

"  By  day  like  play-house  scenes  the  shore  slid  past  our  sleepy  eyes. 
By  night  those  soft  lasceevious  stars  leared  from  those  velvet  skies 

In  port to  daunder  down  the  streets — 

An  ijjit  grinnin'  in  a  dream — for  shells  an'  parrakeets. 

An'  walkin'-sticks  o'  carved  bamboo  an'  blowfish  stuffed  an'  dried- 

Fillin'  (our  bunks)  vvi'  rubbishry  the  Chief  put  over-side." 


Preface 


t3 


c^otv  'we're  off— Good  b^e.  Good  bye 


Parting  Words 

"Adieu,  adieu  !   my  native  shore 
Fades  o'er  the  native  blue. 
Lord  Byron  worked  this  phrase  before, 
But  still  'twill  have  to  do. 

Dear  land  !   with  thee  no  foreign  spot 
Shall  vie  where'er  I  roam. 

(I'll  bet  my  hat  that  I  forgot 
To  mail  those  papers  home.) 

The  breeze  blows  fair. across  our  prow, 
The  crested  wavelets  plunk. 

(And  did  I  put,  I  wonder  now. 
Those  hairpins  in  my  trunk  ?) 


How  peaceful  is  the  sunset  glow. 

How  pensive  even's  light. 
(O  bother  !  guess  I'll  go  below, 

My  native  land — good  night  !)" 

Via  Miss  A. 


THE    START 


;S^;-i. 


"  The  ship  goes  sailing  ccwn  ihe  bay  " 


THE  START 


(( 


o 


N  the  5th  of  February,  we  left  Hoboken  (on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Hudson  River,  opposite  New  York  City) 
in  the  North  German  Lloyd  steamer  Aller,  bound  for 
Gibraltar,  our  first  stop.  We  started  at  midday  ;  a  very  nice 
lunch  was  at  once  served  us,  and  in  spite  of  some  fog,  which  at 
one  time  brought  us  almost  to  a  standstill,  we  soon  passed 
Sandy  Hook,  and  could  truthfully  sing  : 

"  We  are  out  on  an  ocean  sailing." 

At  all  events  some  could  for  a  while,  but  the  Aller  having 
no  freight,  was  what  sailors  call  cranky,  that  is  to  say,  she  did 
not  sink  deep  enough  and  so  was  inclined  to  "  roll  "  and  after 
a  little  while  of  this  swaying  motion,  which  though  gentle,  is 
harder  on  a  sensitive  stomach  than  the  "pitching"  (the  alter- 
nate up  and  down  of  bow  and  stern),  a  good  many  did  not  feel 
like  singing  any  more,  and  some  of  them  looked  pale  and  went 
into  their  staterooms  and  did  not  appear  again  for  several  days. 
One  of  this  class  gave  me  a  description  of  his  first   three  hours 

(17) 


18 


The  Start 


at  sea.  He  was  poetically,  or  rather  rhythmically  inclined,  and 
he  put  it  thus  : 

"  The  first  hour  called  up  memories  of  friends  from  whom  I  parted. 
The  second  hour  called  up  visions  of  the  place  where  bodies  are  carted. 
The  third  hour  called  up  all  I  had  eaten  since  I  started." 

Have  you  ever  been  to   sea  ?     I  am  aware  that  this  is  a 
dangerous  question  to  ask,  when  punsters  are  around.     I  well 
remember  how  surprised  I  was  years  ago,  when  one  replied  to 
this  question,  "  Yes  !  I  used  to  go  to  see  Sally  Perkins,  but  her 
father  had  a  bad  habit  of  throwing  the  poker  at  people,  and  I 
stopped  going  to  see."     I    merely   wish   to  remark   that  if  you 
have  been  to  sea  (spelled  s-e-a)  you  know  just  how  some  people 
act,  and  perhaps  just  how  they  feel,    when   the  unpleasantness 
we  have  alluded 
to      commences. 
There  does  not, 
it  is    true,  seem 
to   be  any  good 
and      sufficient 
reason,    to     one 
who      has       not 
been  through  it, 
why  a  man  who 
has    disturbance 
at    his    equator, 
should    scowl  at 
you     when    you 
smilingly       say 

"Good  morning"  to  him,  and  look  as  though  he  would  be 
willing  to  scalp  his  grandmother  for  two  cents  ;  but  there  is  a 
good  reason,  and  many  a  pious  man  will  look  at  you  in  just  this 
way  after  he  has  been  to  sea  for  a  few  hours.  Others  will  go 
to  the  opposite  extreme  and  smile  at  you  when  even  their  lips 
are  white." — Spencer  s  Notes. 

The  First  Breakfast 

"I  was  awakened  the  first  morning  ol  our  cruise  by  a  buo-le 

call,  and  after  completing   my  toilet  with   some   risk,  for  even 

granting  that  you  are  not  seasick,  you  do  not  get  on  what  they 

call  your  sea  legs  for  some  days,  and  unless  you  have  a  safety 


"staunch  and  strong,  a  goodly  vessel. 
Thai  shall  laugh  at  all  disaster, 
cAnd  %i:ith  iva'ves  and  tvhirl'wind  ivresile  I  ** — Longfeilo'uj 


The  Start 


19 


r 


NordeleUtscl^er    L,lo\/el 

o 

Dampfer     „ALLER",      den      6.  Febr.     t898 


FRUHSTUGK 

Aepfel  Apfelsinen 

Maisgries  Hafergriilze 

Pfannkuchen  liuchweizenkuchen 

Geriiuchcile  Haringe 

Stinte  in  Toraaten-Sauce 

Beefsteak 

Haranielcotelettes 

Geb.  Leber 

Gek.  Eier  nach  Wunsch 

Eierkuchen  mit  Gclee 

Rulirei  mit  Kase 

Geiosteten  Speck  &  Schinken 

Brat-  &  frische   Kartoffein 

Meltwurst  Rinderzunge 

Ingwer         Marmelade 

Toast  Grahambrod  Biodclien 

Sclinecken 

Chocolade  Cacao    Thee        Kaffee 

Frische  Milch  Sahne 


S 


BREAKFAST 

Apples  Oranges 

Hominy  Oatmeal 

German   pan-cake  Buckwheat-cakes 

Kippered     herrings 

Smelts  in   tomato-sauce 

Beef-steak 

Mutton-chops 

Fried   liver 

Boiled  eggs  to  order 

Omelet  with  jelly 

Scrambled  eggs  with  cheese 

Broiled  bacon  &  ham 

Fried   &  fresh    potatoes 

Sablath  sausages  Beef  tongue 

Ginger         Marmalade 
Toast  Grahambread  Rolls 

Biscuits 

Chocolate       Cocoa       Tea       Coffee 

Fresh  milk         Cream 


razor,  it  is  just  as  well  that  you  do  not  undertake  to  shave  the 
first  morning.  However,  I  managed  to  scrape  my  chin  without 
cutting  my  throat,  and  getting  on  deck  I  muffled  myself  up  in 
a  shawl  and  watched  the  ocean  till  another  buole  call  sunmioned 
me  to  breakfast.      Under  the   dining   saloon  windows,    or   port 


Cruise  to  the  Orient  of  the  Express  S.  S-  "ALLER" 

FORWARD  SALOON 
SECOND  SITTING 

Breakfast  8.30  a.  m.;    Lunch  1  p.  m.;    Dinner  7  p.  m. 
SJiA  T  No. 


0 


20 


The  Start 


holes,  there  was  a  broad  seat  running  the  length  of  the  room 
and  heavily  cushioned  with  velvet.  The  side  tables  were 
arranged  so  that  one  end  of  the  table  came  up  to  this  cushioned 
seat,  and  the  passenger  assigned  to  this  end  had  no  chair,  but 
sat  on  the  cushion.  When  I  came  to  my  table  I  found  the 
person  at  this  end  was  a  very  tall,  solemn-looking  old  gentle- 
man, with  a  mouth  cut  straight  across.  By  the  way,  you  may 
notice  that  the  owners  of  such  mouths  never  see  a  joke.  As 
Sidney  Smith  once  said,  it  would  take  a  surgical  operation  to 
get  one  into  them.  The  table  guard  was  loose  and  he  took  it 
out.  We  were  waiting  for  the  first  course.  Just  then  the  ves- 
sel gave  a  heavier  roll  than  usual,  and  the  old  gentleman,  who 
towered  above  me,  sitting  as  straight  as  a  ramrod,  suddenly 
doubled  up  and  pitched  back  on  the  cushion,  while  knives  and 
forks,  spoons  and  sundry  small  crockery,  billowed  over  him. 
He  rose  up  six  feet  or  more,  looking  as  melancholy  as  a  Quaker 
meeting  house  by  moonlight,  and  went  off  to  his  stateroom  and 
we  saw  no  more  of  him  for  some  days." — Spencer. 


Second  Day  at  Sea 

'  I  am  leaning  o'er  the  rail. 
And  I'm  feeling  very  pale. 
Am  I  looking  for  a  sail  ? 

No,  I'm  not. 
I'm  my  father's  only  daughter 
Casting  bread  upon  the  water 
In  a  way  I  hadn't  oughter 
And  that's  what." 

Via  Miss  A. 


The  Start 


21 


Table   Experiences,  Seasickness  and  the  Like 

"  Each  person  has  his  number  at  the  table  and  the  waiters 
are  very  attentive,  and  these  waiters,  by  the  way,  are  veritable 
factotums.  At  one  time  you  will  see  them  carrying  "  Baked 
calf's  liver  a  la  Godard  "  for  example,  and  at  another  time  the 


^ozbbnutc^chin:^  S^oub 


■^ 


^ampfer        „  ALLER ' 


den 


7.  Febr. 


i89  8 


LUN©H 


Clam-chowder,  Fleischbriihe 

GefuUte  Kalbsbrust  Spinat 

Gebackene  Kartoffeln 

Capaunenbraten 

Prunellen 

Gebackene    Aepfel 

Blatterteig 

Kaffee 

KALTE  SPEISEN  AUF  WUNSCH 

Lachs   Salat  mit  Mayonnaise 

Delicatess  HSringe,  Aal  in  Gel6e 

Caviar       Sardinen        Anchovis 

Gekochter  Schinken 

Leber    &  Mettwurst 

Cornedbeef        Ochsenzunge      Nagelholz 

Salzguiken         Oliven 

Rothe    Beeten 

Kartoffel-Salat 

Chester-,  Rahra-  &  Lloyd-Kise 


Clam  chowder.    Consomme 

Stuffed  breast  of  veal,  spinach 

Baked   potatoes 

Roast-capon 

Prunelles 

Baked  apples 

Cannelons 

Coffee. 

COLD   DISHES  TO   ORDER 

Salmon-salad  with  mayonaise 

Tickled  herrings  Eel  in  jelly 

Caviare         Sardines  Anchovies 

Boiled  ham 

Liver-  &  sablath-sausages 

Cornedbeef    Beef  tongue     Smoked  beef 

Salt-cucumber  Olives 

Red   beets 

Potato- salad 

Chester-,  cream-   &  Lloyd-cheese 


ft'-^s^^ 


same  men  will  be  pounding  the  cymbals  in  the  orchestra,  blow- 
ing the  horn  or  scraping  a  violin  with  much  skill  and  with  the 
same  attention  to  business.  They  are  obedient  and  active  on 
four  hours  sleep  and  seven  dollars  a  month  it  is  said. 

Monday  the  sea  was  wilder  and  at  table  the  dishes  would 
persist  in  sliding  away  from  us.  When  the  ship  was  at  an  angle 
of  45°  windward  I  discovered  my  soup,  with  a  formidable  Dutch 
name,  quietly  running  across  the  table.  About  the  only  way  to 
keep  ones  victuals  was  to  swallow  them,  and  then  it  was  not 
any  too  certain  that  they  would  not  reappear  at  a  most  embar- 
rassing moment. 


22 


The  Start 


'e4nd  the 
Softly 


The  remedies  (preventatives  of)  for  seasickness  are  legion, 
flirtation,  poker,  champagne,  lemons,  homeopathic  pellets, 
hypodermic  injections,  allopathic  concoctions,  but  no  preven- 
tative is  more  infallible  than  that  given  by  a  young  lady  at  the 
table — "  Stay  at  home." 

Monday  evening  a  storm  arose  and  all  chairs  and  portable 
articles  on  the  decks  were  lashed  fast  together,  and  to  the  stan- 
chions by  means  of  ropes.  The  wind  blew  a  gale  and  it  was 
dangerous  to  face  it.  Waves  dashed  across  the  upper  deck. 
One  martyr  sitting  near  an  open  port  hole  got  seven  and  one- 
half  buckets  full  of  salt  water  down  his  back.  What  he  said  in 
German  I  don't  know,  but  sober-minded  men  afterwards  said  it 
was  a  case  of  righteous  indignation. 

Some  of  the  sea-sick  passengers'  experiences  were  comical, 
but  especially  the  effort  to  disguise  the  causes  of  difficulty.  On 
our  first  day  out  I  was  talking  with  a  young  man  who  knew  all 
about  the  sea,  but  feeling  not  exactly  well.  Saturday  evening 
he  had  gone  to  his  room  to  see  about  it  and  did  not  appear 
until  this  morning,  when  he  looked  pale  and  in  need  of  fresh 
air.  It  is  said  the  best  way  to  prevent  seasickness  is  to  think 
nothing  about  it ;  that  is  an  impossibility,  since  every  one 
does  talk  about  it,  and  even  if  the  man  does  not  talk  about  it 
he  must,  if  he  walks  about  the  corridors  and  the  decks,  hear 
sounds  not  unearthly,  but  very  suggestive.  Unless  a  man 
walks  the  boat  with  his  eyes  shut  he  is  bound  to  see  evidences 
of  the  malady  ;  so  that  the  man  that  can  make  the  voyage  and 
not  think  of  seasickness  is  a  marvelous  piece  of  mechanism." 
— Parke  s  Notes. 

"  In  the  Glooming  " 
"On  the  steamer,  oh  !   my  darling. 

When  you  hear  the  fog-horns  blow, 
And  the  footsteps  of  the  steward 

Softly  come  and  softly  go. 
When  the  passengers  are  moaning 

WMth  a  great  and  awful  woe, 
Don't  \ou  think  'twere  better,  darling, 
If  we  two  should  go  below? 

In  the  cabin,  oh  !   my  darling, 

Think  not  bitterly  of  me, 
That  I  rushed  away  and  left  you 

In  the  middle  of  our  tea. 
I  was  seized  with  sudden  longing 

Just  to  gaze  upon  the  sea. 
It  was  best  to  leave  you  thus,  dear, 

Best  for  you  and  best  for  me." 

Via  Miss  A. 


footsteps  of  the  steward 
come  and  softtv  go," 


The  Start  23 

Mediterranean  Trip,  and  Region  in  General ;  Bibliography 

Murray's  Handbook  to  the  Mediterranean,  with  many  excellent  maps  and  plans. 

2  vols.     Most  complete  and  best  for  the  region  in  general. 
Allen,  Grant.     The  European  Tour. 
Api'leton's  European  Guide  Book  for  English-speaking  Travelers.     29th  edition. 

2  vols.     New  York  (Appleton). 
Brooks,    Noah.      The    Mediterranean    Trip.      Illustrated.      Maps.      New    York 

(Scribnei). 

BuTTERWORTH,  H.  Zig-zag  Journey  on  the  Mediterranean.  Illustrated  (Juvenile). 
Boston. 

Plavfair,  Lieut.  Col.  Sir  S.  Lambert.  Handbook  to  the  Mediterranean.  3d 
edition,  revised.     Map.     Plans.     2  vols.     London  (Murray),  1892. 

Twain,  Mark.     Innocents  Abroad. 

Stevenson,  Mrs.  Scott.  On  Summer  Seas:  Mediterranean,  ^gean,  Ionian, 
Euxine  (Chapman). 

Buckley  (LL.  D.),  J.  M.  Travels  in  Three  Continents.  Illustrated.  New  York. 
A  characteristic  narration  of  the  author's  travels  in  the  lands  bordering  the 
Mediterranean,  including  Palestine.     Profusely  and  beautifully  illustrated. 

Davis,  Richard  Harding.  The  Rulers  of  the  Mediterranean.  Illustrated.  New 
York  (Harper). 

Emerson's  New  York  to  the  Orient.     2d  edition. 

Knox,  Thomas  Wallace.  The  Boy  Travellers  in  the  Far  East.  P,irt  4:  Egypt 
and  the  Holy  Lands.     438  pages.     Illustrated.     New  Yoik  (Harper). 

McKeeve,  Col.  Chas.  How  we  Went  and  What  we  Saw — Travels  in  Egypt 
Syria,  and  the  yEgean  Sea.     New  York. 

Seven  Wonders  of  the  Woild.    Description  of  the  Wonders  of  Antiquity.   Illustrated. 

Stoddard,  John  L.  John  L.  Stoddard's  Lectures.  Illustrated  and  embellished 
wiih  views  of  the  world's  famous  places  and  people.  (Being  the  identical  dis- 
courses delivered  during  the  past  eighteen  years  under  the  title  of  "  The  Stod- 
dard Lectures.")     10  vols.     Boston  (Balch  Bros.  Co.),  1898. 

The  Picturesque  Mediterranean:  Its  Cities,  Shores  and  Islands.  Beautifully  illus- 
trated.    2  vols.     New  York  (Cassell). 

Warner,  C.  Dudley.     In  the  Levant.     2  vols.    Illustrated. 

Wilson.     An  Oriental  Outing. 

Ball,  E.  A.  Reynolds.  Mediterranean  Winter  Resorts:  a  Practical  Handbook 
27  Illustrations.     London. 

Yeo,   Dr.   J.   B.     Health  Resorts  and  Their  Uses.     London. 

Goodyear,  William  Henry.  A  History  of  Art  ,  for  Classes,  Art  Students  and 
Tourists  in  Europe.  Nearly  403  illustrations.  357  pages.  Good  Index. 
New  York  (A.  S.  Barnes  &  Co.).  Three  subdivisions  :  Architecture,  Sculpture 
and  Painting.     Foreign  names  pronounced  in  text. 

LuBKE,  WiLHELM.  History  of  Art.  2  vols.  600  illustrations.  New  York  (Dodd, 
Mead  &  Co.). 

Thompson,  Kate.  Handbook  to  the  Galleries  of  Europe.  New  York  (Macmilan). 
1880. 

FEKCiUSSON,  James.  A  History  of  Architecture  in  all  Countries,  from  the  Earliest 
Times  to  the  Present  Day.     2  vols.     1015  illustrations. 

Mathews,  C.  T.     The  Story  of  Architecture.     New  York  (Appleton). 

Redford,  Geo.  Sculpture:  Egyptian,  Assyrian,  Greek  and  Roman.  160  illustra- 
tions.    New  York  (Scribner). 

Champlin,  Jr.,  John  D.,  and  Perkins.  Painters  and  Paintings,  Cyclopedia  of 
4  vols.     2000  illustrations.     New  York  (Scribnet). 

Radcliffe,  Miss  A.  G.  Schools  and  Masters  of  Painting,  with  an  Appendix  on  the 
Principal  Galleries  of  Europe.     Illustrated.     New  York  (Appleton). 

Van  Dvke,  John  C.  A  Text  Book  of  the  History  of  Painting  (Longman,  Green 
&  Co.). 

Vasari's  Lives  of  the  Painters.  Ed.  Blashfields  &  Hopkins.  Library  edition, 
4  vols. 

Field,  Rev.   Hy.     The  Greek  Inlands.     Cr.  New  York. 


24 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  ThingfS 


PiCKFORD,  Smith,  R.  A.  H.     Cretan    Sketches.      270  P.  O.     London.     Including 

Annotated  Bibliography,  76  titles. 
Cresnola,  Gen.  Louis  Palma  di.   Cyprus:  Its  Ancient  Cities,  Tombs  and  Temples; 

a  Narrative  of  Researches  and  Excavations  during  Ten  Years'  Residence  in 

that  Island.     456  pages.     Illustrated.     Maps.     New  York. 
Caird,  L.    H.     The    History    of  Corsica.     179  pages.     London.     Best  History  for 

English  Reader.     Bibliography  of  18  titles. 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Thingfs 

Like  Mark  Twain's  excursion  over  almost  the  same  route 
described  in  his  book,  "  The  Innocents  Abroad,"  the  great  Aller 

excursion  no  doubt  had  been  talked 
about  and  discussed  at  countless  fire- 
sides during  the  winter  of  1897  and 
1898.  It  was  a  novelty  in  the  way  of 
excursions,  and  as  Mark  Twain  puts 
it,  "  A  pic-nic  on  a  gigantic  scale.  In- 
stead of  youth  and  beauty,  with  pies 
and  doughnuts,  paddling  up  some 
obscure  creek  to  disembark  upon  a 
grassy  lawn  and  to  wear  themselves 
out  through  the  long  summer  days 
"  And  Clark  Smiled  "  bylaborjous  frolicking,  under  the  im- 

pression that  it  was  fun,"  the  great  steamship  was  to  sail  away 
across  the  Atlantic,  by  the  Azores  and  through  the  Mediterran- 
ean, taking  its  passengers  to  various  and  sundry  points  of 
interest.  To  be  indeed  a  sort  of  floating  palace,  or  better 
still  a  home  to  which  we  ever  and  anon  returned  with  pleas 
urable  feelings  and  courteous  reception  for  delightful  reunions 
and  exchange  of  sentiment,  or  as  one  of  our  facetious  college 
presidents  remarked,  "to  hold  experience  meetings." 

We  were  said  to  have  355  passengers  and  233  officers  and 
crew,  in  all  588  souls.  The  vessel  was  the  Dampfer  Aller,  as 
many  rejoiced  and  persisted  to  the  end  in  calHng  her  ;  she 
registered  5,216  tons,  was  455  feet  long,  47  feet  10  inches  wide, 
33  feet  10  inches  deep,  and  was  able  to  carry  1,508  tons  of 
coal.  The  consumption  of  coal,  rapid  and  galloping,  was 
150  tons  per  day.  It  took  between  50  and  60  men,  shoveling 
these  150  tons  of  coal  daily,  under  7  boilers,  to  make  the 
steam  required  for  the  triple  expansion  engine,  which  revolved 
the    huge    screw   propeller    made    of  manganese    bronze    22 


w 


'  The  skipper,  he  stood  beside  the  helm. 
His  pipe  nuas  in  his  mouth.  "—Longfellow. 


feet  in  diameter,  and  to  run 
the  two  dynamos  which  fur- 
nished the  vessel  with  its  539 
electric  ligrhts. 

"This  is  the  man  that  kissed 
the  maid  that  milked  the  cow  that 
tossed  the  dog  that  worried  the  cat 
that  killed  the  rat  that  ate  the  malt 
that  lay  in  the  house  that  Jack  built." 

The  speed  of  the  vessel 
was  about  15  knots  per  hour, 
but  when  "humping  it  up" 
(as  the  boys  remarked)  to 
make  connections,  must  have 
been  1 5  naughts  plus  any- 
thing. By  the  way  the  captain 
was  said  to  have  been  much  grieved  by  the  inquiry  of  a  cer- 
tain lady  as  to  whether  the  ship  would  get  to  a  certain  port  on 
time.  "Why,  madam,"  said  he,  "this  vessel  is  just  like  an 
express  train  on  land  ;  it  will  be  there  on  scheduled  time,"  and 
it  always  was.  The  vessel  had  four  decks,  promenade,  main, 
saloon,  lower  deck.  She  was  built  in  Glasgow  in  1886,  con- 
tained 62  state-rooms,  had  16  life  boats,  2  rafts,  8  water-tight 
bulk-heads  and  1024  life  preservers. 

Captain  Neirich,  the  commander,  was  a  rosy,  genial  Ger- 
man, popular  with  everybody  and  yet  devoted  to  his  duty,  caring 
most  of  all  for  his  ship,  and  so  admirably  managing  and  over- 
seeing the  different  departments  that  it  was  with  eager  and 
spontaneous  action  the  passengers,  before  separating,  met  and 
unanimously  passed  the  commendatory  and  congratulatory  reso- 
lutions recorded  in  another  place.  Money  was  also  subscribed 
by  the  passengers,  and  the  captain  was  presented  with  a  beau- 
tiful gold  watch,  purchased  by  a  committee  of  the  passengers 
at  Athens  with  a  part  of  the  money.  The  remainder  was  divided 
into  equal  sums  and  placed  in  purses  and  presented  to  the  other 
officers,  requesting  them  to  buy  some  appropriate  souvenir,  and 
to  have  inscribed  upon  it  the  fact  of  its  presentation  to  them  by 
the  passengers  on  this  cruise.  It  was  the  unanimous  opinion 
of  the  passengers  that  they  had  never  witnessed  such  patience 


26  Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Thingfs 

and  discipline  and  skill  as  were  exhibited  in  every  part  of  the 
vessel  by  the  officers  and  crew. 

To  speak  of  each  officer  and  of  each  department  of  the 
ship  in  detail,  our  physician  and  pursers  and  engineers  and 
stewards  and    our    never-to-be-forgotten    band    and    orchestra 


would  be  impossible.  I  only  want  to  call  them  over  so  that 
pleasant  impressions  may  be  revived.  To  the  band  we  owe 
much  pleasure.  These  faithful  fellows  who  played  during 
the  long  eating  hours  and  many  times  between,  who  not 
only  were  musicians  but  attended  to  other  duties,  as  stewards, 
won,  I  am  sure,  the  admiration  and  respect  of  many  of  us. 
The  thoroughness  in  every  part  of  their  work,  their  untiring 
efficiency  and  patience  was  a  source  of  constant  remark. 

The  manning  of  the  ship  was  as  follows  :  5  officers,  the 
commander,  the  chief  officer,  the  second  officer,  the  third  officer, 
the  fourth  officer,  i  ship's  physician,  i  purser,  i  assistant  purser, 

1  chief  engineer,  7  engineers,  4  assistant  engineers,  8  overseer 
firemen,  26  regular  firemen,  38  coal  trimmers,  38  sailors,  i  chief 
steward,  i   second  steward,  i   third  steward,  4  chefs,  3  bakers, 

2  butchers,  2  confectioners,  5  stewardesses,  i  barber,  8  musi- 
cians, 60  stewards,  i  provision  steward,  7  pantrymen,  1 2  dish- 
washers, I  porter  ;  making  in  all  a  crew  of  233  men.  (The 
names  of  the  officers  are  recorded  in  another  place.) 

Of  the  355  passengers,  as  careful  a  list  as  could  be  made, 
gives  the  following  data  :  Of  course  some  of  the  party  only 
went  as  far  as  Naples  ;  others  joined  us  at  Alexandria  and  left 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisiii'  Things  27 

at  Constantinople  ;  others  left  again  at  Naples  and  went  up 
through  Europe,  but  the  list  shows  the  company  to  have  been 
made  up  about  as  follows:  76  women,  190  men,  68  misses,  4 
masters,  10  doctors,  35  reverends,  2  honorables,  2  professors, 
I  college  president,  2  women  doctors,  i  colonel,  85  from  Penn- 
sylvania, 58  from  New  York,  44  from  Massachusetts,  22  from 
Illinois,  17  from  Ohio,  14  from  Iowa,  11  from  New  Jersey,  9 
from  California,  9  from  Indiana.  7  from  Missouri,  6  from  Con- 
necticut, 5  from  Ontario,  5  from  North  Carolina,  4  from  Min- 
nesota, 4  from  the  Dominion  of  Canada,  4  from  Michigan,  3 
from  West  Virginia,  3  from  Boston,  3  from  Washington,  3  from 
Vermont,  2  from  New  Hampshire,  2  from  Kentucky,  2  from 
Arkansas,  2  from  Texas,  2  from  Georgia.  2  from  Kansas,  i 
from  Montana  and  i  from  Nova  Scotia.  (The  passenger  list  is 
recorded  in  the  back  of  the  book.) 

The  ship  was  provisioned  in  New  York  with  food  enough 
as  it  seemed  for  an  army.  An  imperfect  transcript  of  the 
purser's  record  is  given  in  another  place.  I  am  sure  it  will  be 
interesting  to  refer  to  this  as  we  remember  the  excellent  variety 
and  the  well  served  menus  provided  throughout  that  long  excur- 
sion. One  fact  in  regard  to  a  most  perishable  delicacy  is 
rather  curious  and  startling,  namely,  that  from  start  to  finish 
we  were  provided  with  ice  cream  purchased  in  New  York. 
Samples  of  our  menus  are  to  be  found  in  another  place  The 
abundance  and  quality  of  the  food  was  astonishing,  and 
the  amount  eaten  was  simply  tremendous.  We  seemed  to 
be  for  a  time,  as  we  cruised  over  the  ocean,  simply  machines 
for  eating  and  digesting.  No  effort  was  spared  on  the  part 
of  the  management  to  provide  every  passenger  with  food  on 
every  occasion.  After  a  most  elaborate  breakfast  it  was  aston- 
ishing to  find  great  numbers  of 
people  availing  themselves  of 
the  delicious  lunch  passed  around 
about  ten  or  eleven  o'clock,  and 
then,  after  the  more  elaborate 
lunch  at  mid-day,  it  was  no  unus- 
ual sight  to  see  half  the  passen- 
gers on  deck  partaking  of  the 
delicious  thin-sliced  bread  sand- 
wiches, crackers  and  other  deli- 


'  Hcnv  sweet  if  were,  -wiih  half-shut  eyes  to  seem 
Falling  asleep  in  a  half  dream 
7b  ivatch  the  crisping  ripples  on  the  beacht 
And  tender  cur'vlng  lines  of  creamy  spray,  **— Lotos-Eaters* 


28 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Thingfs 


Crois?,  Cruisers  and  Croisin'  Thingfs  29 

cacies  passed  around  so  patiently  and  continually  by  the 
stewards.  And  one  would  have  thought,  after  a  two-hour's 
dinner  with  uncountable  courses,  that  that  would  have  finished 
the  day,  but  by  ten  the  dining  room  was  frequently  half  filled 
with  passengers  still  further  indulging  in  sandwiches,  lemon- 
ade, drinkables  and  eatables  of  various  description.     It  is  mar- 


r 


-r~^- 


"^ugk  Calls— "Breakfast,  Lunch,  Dinner— Sunday  Scorning 

velous  the  amount  of  food  one  is  able  to  consume  at  sea  and 
yet  remain  well.  I  often  fancied  that  people  who  felt  the 
unusual  disturbance  of  seasickness  were  led  to  imagine  that 
'this  was  the  uneasy  sensation  in  the  stomach  caused  by  hunger. 
On  land,  too,  we  were  invariably  well  fed.  At  the  hotels  the 
meals,  even  in  the  Oriental  countries  and  in  tlie  out-of- 
the-way  places,  were  simply  astonishing,  soups  and  course 
dinners  being  the  constant  experience.  The  breakfasts  on 
land,  however,  were  not  quite  so  satisfactory.  Everywhere 
these  were  light,  consisting  principally  of  fruit,  coffee,  rolls, 
butter,  marmalade  and  eggs,  if  we  desired  them.  Ordinarily 
the  breakfast  would  consist  of  simply  coffee,  rolls  and  butter. 
One  of  our  passengers  made  some  interesting  notes  in  regard 
to  the  food.  He  says  :  '  It  is  customary  in  the  East  to  charge 
extra  for  tea.  At  Jerusalem  they  charge  six  cents  per  cup. 
Sometimes  our  tourists  were  inclined  to  draw  the  line  at  cer- 
tain articles  of  food,  especially  the  butter,  which  had  a  very 
peculiar  color,   but    which  \lid   not  usually   have|^  an    ill  taste. 


30 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Thingfs 


CrJ^ 


^^  ■ 


O 


^<^,  '^.,'^^^/'/'/t'<^ , 


/. 


/ 


/J 


■J  {I 


•  -t 


(y' 


Lost  and  Found 

The  milk  served  we  understood  to  be  goat's  milk,  and  it  had  a' 
peculiar  flavor.  Sometimes  dishes  were  served,  especially  at 
lunch,  the  status  of  which  the  bright  ladies  of  our  party  were 
not  able  to  fix.  At  Nazareth  a  dish  was  served  which  some 
insisted  must  be  '  fricasseed  donkey ',  but  which  was  allowed 
to  be  by  no  means  unpalatable. 

Eggs  and  chickens  constituted  the  most  frequent  articles 
of  diet  in  Palestine,  and  as  eggs  are  very  cheap  there,  and  their 
shells  insured  cleanliness,  they  were  a  favorite.  At  most  hotels 
the  people  were  polite  and  attentive,  and  everywhere  we  found 
some  English  spoken." 

Usually  there  is  considerable  apprehension  among  tourists 
with  regard  to  the  drinking  water  in  various  cities  in  the  East. 
Mr.  Archbold's  observation  was  that  none  of  the  water  served 
anywhere    was    dangerous    to    health,    although  many,   antici- 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin*  Things 


Zt 


pating  it  would  be,  supplied  themselves  with  wine  for  drinking. 
"In  Cairo  we  drank  water  from  the  Nile,  which  the  hotel 
manager  told  us  was  twice  filtered,  first  by  the  municipality  of 
Cairo,  and  next  at  the  hotel.  At  Jerusalem  we  drank  rain  water, 
filtered.  Our  conductor  assured  us  the  cisterns  were  kept 
clean,  and  there  was  no  reason  why  the  rain  water  was  not 
an  acceptable  drink,  from  a  sanitary  standpoint. 

"  We  also  found  good  water  in  Athens,  Rome,  and  other 
places  we  visited."  The  tendency,  however,  in  all  these  places 
is  to  substitute  the  bitter  wine  of  the  country,  which  is  much 
less  satisfactory  in  quenching  thirst,  but  is  not  so  likely  to  cause 
inconvenience. 

In  regard  to  the  money  used,  it  may  be  interesting  to  record 

the  experience  of  one  of  our  party  in 
this  matter  also.  "  A  very  interesting, 
practical  question  with  travelers 
abroad  is  to  decide  what  kind  of 
money  is  most  desirable  to  take 
with  them  for  expenditures  in  travel- 
ing. Friends  in  New  York  advised 
me  to  take  nothing  but  English  and 
French  money  (either  bills  or  coins) 
in  traveling  to  Mediterranean  ports. 
1  found  this  advice  to  be  correct,  as 
the  money  of  these  two  countries  was 
acceptable  everywhere,  although  we 
often  found  it  necessary  to  secure  the 
money  of  the  countries  in  which  we 
visited,  especially  the  small  denom- 
inations  of  the    same,    for   our    own  convenience. 

My  own  experience  led  me  to  believe  the  money  having 
the  highest  standard  at  the  present  time  is  British  money, 
although  it  is  only  fair  to  say  French  money  is  popular,  and 
especially  the  French  franc,  which  I  think  is  used  in  quoting 
prices  in  the  East  even  more  frequently  than  the  English 
shilling. 

We  found  it  necessary  to  be  very  careful  about  taking  the 
paper  money  of  the  countries  we  visited,  especially  the  paper 
money  of  Italy,  which,  while  acceptable  in  that  country,  would 
not  pass  without  a  heavy  discount  outside  of  Italy.     The  Italian 


"in  the  afternoon  tlyey  come  unio  a.  la.nd 
In  which  it  seemed  alivays  afternoon 
c4ll  'round  the  coast  the  languid  air  did  S'woon.**^ 

Lotos-Eaters. 


32  Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Things 

paper  money,  however,  is  of  very  convenient  shape,  and  seems 
to  be  liked  by  the  people  of  Italy. 

It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  francs  of  France,  Belgium 
and  Switzerland,  the  drachma  of  Greece,  the  lira  of  Italy,  the 
peseta  of  one  hundred  centimes  of  Spain,  have  all  nominally 
about  the  same  value  in  our  money,  namely,  about  twenty  cents. 

We  found  the  smaller  coins  of  some  of  the  countries  we 
visited  very  interesting,  especially  the  half  piaster  of  Egypt, 
which  is  a  beautiful  coin  of  about  the  same  size  as  our  nickel, 
and  is  worth  about  two  and  one-half  cents  in  our  money.  In 
addition  to  being  a  very  pretty  coin  we  found  it  quite  available, 
as  we  could  pay  for  a  ride  on  the  trolley  cars  of  Cairo  with  it, 
pay  the  omnipresent  bootblack  and  fulfill  the  demands  of 
baksheesh.  Except  on  our  ship,  or  at  ports  in  communication 
with  ports  in  the  United  States  (this  was  especially  true  of  our 
paper  money),  the  coin  currency  of  the  United  States  is  very 
little  known  abroad. 

The  Gallant  Fourth  Officer 

"  Let  me  make  mention  of  a  gallant  officer  of  the  Aller  s 
crew.  A  Dago  steamer  of  British  descent,  just  before  the 
Aller  s  arrival  in  New  York  on  her  last  voyage  before  ours, 
signaled  distress.  She  had  broken  her  shaft  and  was  in  a 
sinking  condition.  The  sea  was  very  high,  too  high,  the  cap- 
tain thought,  to  order  men  out  in  the  lifeboat  ;  the  disabled 
steamer's  lifeboat  had  been  crushed  by  the  waves  as  they 
attempted  to  lower  it  ;  so  the  captain  of  the 
Aller  was  compelled  to  ask  for  volunteers. 

"The  fourth  officer  and  nine  other  men 
bravely  started,  with  the  statement  from  the  cap- 
tain that  if  anything  happened  them,  he  would 
head  the  Aller  for  them  immediately.  For  five 
hours  they  worked,  and  twenty-four  men  were 
saved.  About  four  hours  after  the  disabled  boat 
sank,  carrying  all  its  cargo  with  it  and  the  sailors' 
belongings  likewise. 

"Later,  during  a  gathering  in  the  saloon, 
giits  appropriate  to  the  occasion  and  the  deed  w  ere  made  to 
the  officer  and  his  nine  men.  The  rescued  men  were  presented 
with  hats  and  coats  by  the  sailors  of  the  Aller  crew." — Parke. 


Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Things 


33 


Afterward  the  fourth  officer  received,  it  is  said,  medals 
from  Germany,  England  and  America.  Of  course,  he  was  our 
hero,  and  being  fine  and  soldier-like  in  appearance,  he  was 
greatly  courted  by  the  ladies. 


Amusements 

"One  of   the  diversions   on   ship  is  "  Shuffle  Board ",   in 
which  the  player,  with  an  oar-shaped  paddle,  shoves  a  wooden 

disk  about  eight  inches  in  diam- 
nr:;<^iiL]--<i^  .  eter    from    a    chalk     line    about 

fifteen  feet  to  spaces  marked  off 
with  chalk  and  numbers  from 
one  up  to  fifteen.  There  are 
two  sides.  It  resembles  "  Croci- 
nole  ",  and  is  as  innocent  as  tid- 
dle-de-winks. 

Ring    toss    is    a    shipboard 
^''"^"""'  game,     and    I     indulged    in    the 

harmless  amusement.  Not  being  used  to  toss  when  the 
foundations  were  in  motion,  I  was  beaten  twice,  but  recovered 
and  won  the  last  two.  The  rings  used  are  rope  an  inch  or 
more  in  diameter,  dexterously  connected  as  only  sailors  can 
do  it." — Parke. 


THE  AZORES  AND  PORTUGAL 


I 


Off  the  A  gores 


THE  AZORES  AND  PORTUGAL 

Bibliography 


Baker,  C.  Alice.    A  Summer  in  the  Azores,  with  a  Glimpse  of  Madeira,  pp.  174,  etc. 

Boston  (Lee  &  Shephard) ;  New  York  (Dillingham).     (.Vluch  information  in 

small  compass  ;  captivating  style.) 
Goodman,  Frederick  Duncane.   Natural  History  of  the  Azores  or  Western  Islands. 

London. 
Walker,  Walter  Frederick.     The  Azores  or  Western  Islands.     Maps  and  illus- 
trations.    London. 
Webster,  J.  W.     A  Description  of  St.  Michael.     Boston. 
Benjamin,  S.  G.  W.     Cruise  Among  the  Azores.     Scribners  Monthly,  New  York. 

Vol.  6,  pp.  513,  etc. 
Dark  Blue  (London),  vol.  4,  pp.  452.     Three  Years  in  the  Azores. 
Dark  Blue  (London),  The  Azores,  pp.  302.     Littell's  Living  Age  (Boston),  vol.    116 

(>873) 
HiGGlNSON,   Col.  T.  W.     Fayal  and  the   Portuguese.     Atlantic  Monthly  (Boston), 

vol  6  (November,  i860),  pp.  526,  etc.     (Good). 
Howarth,  O.     Cycling  in  the  Azores.     C«//«^  (New  York),  vol.  28,  pp.  35. 
Ward,   F.   B.     Ascent   of   Mount    Pico.      Current  Literature   (New  York),  vol.  19, 

pp.  271-2. 

February  12  th. 
2289  Miles  Out. 

"We  have  steamed  rather  slowly  since  yesterday,  in  order 
to  give  the  tourists  the  best  possible  opportunity  to  see  the 
Azores  or  Western  Islands.  These  islands  are  situated  about 
1000  miles  west  of  Gibraltar,  and.  before  the  discovery  of 
America,  were  supposed  to  be  located  on  the  farthest  boundary 
of  the  world,  to  the  west. 

The  islands  are  nine  in  number  and  bear  the  following 
names  :  Corvo,  Flores,  Fayal,  Pico,  Gracioso,  San  Jorge,  Ter- 
ceira,  San  Miguel  and   Santa  Maria.     They  have  an  aggregate 

(37; 


38  The  Azores  and  Portugal 

population  of  a  little  over  a  quarter  of  a  million  people.  Corvo 
has  the  smallest  population  (looo)  and  San  Miguel  the  largest 
(105,000). 

The  conditions  as  to  weather  were  entirely  favorable  for  an 
inspection  of  the  islands,  as  we  had  an  unclouded  sky  and  the 
balmiest  breezes  We  sighted  Mt.  Pico  on  the  island  of  Pico, 
about  1 1  a.  m.  (a  mountain  7613  feet  high),  and  by  2  p.  m.  were 
fairly  abreast  of  the  island  of  Fayal.  These  islands  are  of  vol- 
canic origin  and  have  but  few  trees  and  they  of  stunted  growth. 

The  scenes  that  greeted  our  eyes,  especially  on  the  islands 
of  Fayal  and  San  Miguel,  were  of  great  attractiveness.  The 
arable  land  is  divided  into  what  appeared  to  be  exceedingly 
small  plots,  by  what  seemed  like  dry  hedges.  We  noted,  how- 
ever, that  the  steeper  the  hillside  the  smaller  were  the  plots  of 
ground,  and,  therefore,  concluded  that  the  hedges  were  planted 
in  part  to  prevent  the  soil  from  being  washed  off  These  minia- 
ture farms  seemed  to  be  under  perfect  cultivation.  The 
temperature  is  said  to  range  from  70  to  80  degrees  the 
year  round.  The  exports  are  wine,  brandy,  oranges,  lem- 
ons, pine  apples,  beef,  pork,  coarse  linen  and  simple  manufac- 
tures from  osiers  and  fibres  of  corn  husks.  We  saw  some  fish- 
ermen from  the  islands  in  their  boats,  and  they  impressed  us  as 
being  a  rather  short  and  stocky  people.  Their  houses  are  white 
and  some  of  them  exceedingly  diminutive.  In  the  larger  vil- 
lages and  towns  there  were  buildings  of  considerable  size.  We 
saw  many  wind-mills,  which  added  to  the  picturesqueness  of 
the  scene.  The  people  are  very  primitive,  depending  chiefly 
on  bullock  carts  as  a  means  of  transportation. 

We  had  a  most  favorable  opportunity  to  view  Mt.  Pico, 
which  is  said  to  resemble  Mt.  Vesuvius.  The  top  is  covered 
with  snow  and  fleecy  clouds  hung  about  the  mountain,  a  con- 
siderable distance  from  its  apex.  The  spectacle  of  this  moun- 
tain during  the  late  afternoon  and  evening  was  a  most  inspiring 
one,  as  it  was  bathed  in  sunlight.  We  had  a  good  view  of  two 
of  the  larger  towns  and  seaports  of  the  island — Fayal,  on  the 
island  of  Fayal,  and  Ponta  Delgado,  on  the  island  of  San 
Miguel — the  latter  is  said  to  contain  about  18,000  people. 
These  islands  were  discovered  by  Flemish  navigators  in  the 
fifteenth  century.  They  did  not  care  to  appropriate  them,  how- 
ever, and  Portugal  subsequently  took  possession  of  them.    I  do 


The  Azores  and  Portug^al  39 

not  remember  any  mention  of  the  Azores  in  the  account  of  the 
voyage  of  Columbus,  but  as  they  lie  fairly  in  the  path  he  would 
naturally  take,  it  seems  reasonable  to  conjecture  that  he  passed 
in  sight  of  them.  They  were  taken  possession  of  by  Don 
Henry,  the  navigator,  on  behalf  of  Portugal,  in  1449,  forty-three 


I'i^ 


years  before  Columbus  discovered  America — and  who  knows 
but  their  discovery  may  have  helped  to  stimulate  Columbus  to 
make  the  effort  at  discovery  which  rendered  him  famous  and 
placed  him   high  on  the  roll  of   the    world's  benefactors." 
"  On    Saturday  evening— it   was    Lincoln's   birthday — by 


40  The  Azores  and  Portugal 

special  request,  the  Hon.  S.  M.  Cutcheon,  of  Detroit,  Mich.,  a 
former  neighbor  and  friend  of  Lincoln's,  at  Springfield,  III,  con- 
sented to  speak  on  the  always-interesting  theme — Abraham 
Lincoln.  It  is  only  fair  to  say  that  Mr.  Cutcheon  electrified  his 
hearers  in  his  off-hand  talk  about  his  old  friend,  with  whom,  he 
told  us,  he  had  played  ball  many  times,  between  two  brick  walls, 
in  Springfield.  I  believe  our  affection  for  our  own  country 
increases  as  its  shores  recede,  and  I  feel  sure  there  was  no 
more  enthusiastic  audience  anywhere  on  the  13th  of  February 
than  the  one  on  our  ship." — Archbold. 

Dec.  20,  1898. 
My  Dear  Mr.  McClure  : 

Replying  to  your  favor  of  the  i6th  inst.,  repeating  your  request  that  I 
furnish  you  a  copy  or  at  least  a  skeleton  of  my  brief  talk  on  Abraham  Lincoln 
before  the  J//er  friends  on  the  evening  of  February  12th,  1898,  I  beg  to  say 
that  I  cannot  comply  with  your  wishes  in  that  matter. 

At  the  dinner  table  on  that  evening  some  one  observed  that  it  was  the 

anniversary  of  Mr.  Lincoln's  birthday,  and  in  the  course  of  conversation  it 

became  known  that  I  was  well  acquainted  with  Mr.   Lincoln  before  he  was 

President.     After  dinner  a  committee  of  the  passengers  came  to  my  stateroom 

and  asked  me  if  I  would  speak  on   Lincoln  after  the  lecture  that  was  to  be 

delivered  on  Malta.     I  consented.     I  spoke  in  a  familiar  way  without  note 

and  without  preparation  beyond  that  which  comes  to  one  from  a  knowledge  of 

and  love  for  his  subject — in  this  case,  one  of  the  great  names  of  our  country 

and  time  and  indeed  of  all  countries  and  of  all  history.     While  on  my  feet  I 

was   not  trying  to  remember  what  I  was  saying,  but  was  trying  to  say  what  I 

remembered  about  Mr.  Lincoln.     It  would  be  impossible  for  me  to  reproduce 

a  single  sentence  of  that  talk.      You  will  remember  that  we  were  in  mid-ocean, 

and  that  all   the   passengers  had   been   away  from  home  long  enough  to  be 

pleased  to  hear  about  things  American  ;  that  there  is  no  more  popular  a  theme 

with  Americans  than  the  personal  characteristics  of  Abraham  Lincoln  ;  that  it 

was  his  birthday,  and  that  there  was  a  crowded  audience  of  interested  listeners. 

The  theme,  the  occasion  and  circumstances  were  enough  to  inspire  any  man. 

Now,  think,  if  you  can,  of  my  sitting  down  in  my  office  with  my  stenographer, 

to  whom  I  have  been  dictating  for  years,  and  trying  to  produce  a  speech  made 

under  such  tircumstances.      I  simply  cannot  do  it.     My  mind  revolts  against 

the  attempt,  and  I  know  you  will  excuse  me.* 

Very  sincerely  yours, 

S.  M.  Cutcheon. 
*I  had  to.— Compiler. 

The  Coast  of  Portugal 

"About  3  p.  m.,  we  sighted  Europe.  Point  St.  Vincent, 
Portugal.  The  coast  is  rocky,  rugged  and  low.  Some  distance 
inland  mountains  and  white  houses  were  to  be  seen.  Here  and 
there  near  the  shore  occasionally  a  larger  seldement. 


The  Azores  and  Portugal 


41 


The  point  of  land  we  approached  first  was  Cape  St.  Vincent, 
on  which  there  is  a  Hght-house  and  signal  station.  The  captain 
drew  quite  close  to  land  that  we  might  view  it,  but  primarily 
I  suppose  in  order  that  our  approach  might  be  signaled  to 
Gibraltar  and  thence  home  to  New  York.  Gibraltar  is  194 
miles  distant  from  this  point.  Sea  craft  became  more  numerous, 
I  counted  eight  at 
one  time.  One  small 
vessel  had  little  trian- 
gular sails  which  the 
captain  said  were 
Roman  sails.  W  e 
could  imagine  the  old 
Romans  in  Ccesar's  time,  out  on 
the  great  sea  beyond  the  Pillars 
of  Hercules,  searching  for  blood 
or  for  oysters  in  just  such  vessels. 
We  are  told  that  from  a  forest  in 
a  remarkably  short  time  they  con- 
structed a  fleet  which  competed  successfully  with  the  Cartha- 
genians  on  the  Carthagenian  Lake.  Evidently  ship  building, 
though  not  in  its  prime,  was  primarily  rapid  and  rude.  Glasses 
now  began  to  be  used  freely,  but  no  one  reported  as  to 
whether  the  Spaniards  had  conquered  Cuba.  Great  numbers 
of  sea  gulls  approached  us  now  for  the  first  time.  They  are 
somewhat  different  from  the  American  birds.  They  are  larger, 
and  the  tips  of  the  wings  are  black.  They  amused  us  and 
themselves  by  rising  and  diving  from  a  distance  straight  into 
the  brine,  going  down  cackling  into  the  water  while  only  a 
splash  was  seen  where  before  was  clumsy  gull. 

If  you  have  ever  seen  chimney  swallows  dive  into  a  chim- 
ney you  have  a  picture  of  the  evolution  of  these  birds,  but 
there  the  similarity  ends.  After  a  few  moments  they  appear  in 
a  row  about  the  hole  where  they  "  dove".  We  had  seen  schools 
of  porpoises  heretofore,  but  here  was  evidently  a  sea  gull 
academy,  also  the  preparatory  school." — Parke. 


Point  St.  'Vincent 


42 


The  Azores  and  Portug:aI 


The  Coast  of  Portugal 


Verses  Writ  on  St  Valentine's  Day 


''  Two  days  ago  we  passed  those  isles 
Which  once  Cohimbus  knew, 
Green  sunny  slopes  and  sunny  peaks 
From  out  the  ocean  blue. 

A  waving  flag  on  ship  and  shore 

And  then  the  message  sped 

The  A/Ier's  passed  some  thousand  miles 

O'er  ocean's  oozy  bed. 

To-day  horizon's  girdle  shows 
Of  land  no  faintest  sign, 
Yet  swifter,  clearer  speaks  my  heart 
To  thee,  my  Valentine. 

Like  ships  at  sea  that  side  by  side 
With  idle  sails  at  eventide 
Upon  the  unruffled  waters  lie 
So  for  an  instant,  you  and  I 
Drift  here  together  on  life's  tide. 

Our  port,  our  venture  and  beside 
Our  course  to  each  to  serve  as  guide 
Across  the  narrow  space  we  cry 
Like  ships  at  sea. 

With  swelling  sails  we  swifter  glide 
And  soon,  across  the  distance  wide 
One  hardly  hears  the  faint  "  good  bye  " 
And  so  to  meet  no  more  for  aye 
Upon  life's  main,  our  paths  divide 
Like  ships  at  sea." 

Walter  Learned. 


The  Azores  and  Portugal  43 

The  Rolling:  Ball  at  Sea 

"  Notices  are  posted  on  bulletin  boards  at  convenient 
places  of  important  events,  such  as  lectures,  dances,  losses  and 
finds,  our  mileage  and  when  we  get  our  shoes  blacked. 

"Just  now  an  invitation  to  a  ball  to  be  given  on  ship-board 
is  upon  the  bulletin,  besides  this,  we  have  all  received  special 
invitations  with  the  statement,  '  Dress  or  undress  as  you  please.' 
Very  few  pleased  to  put  on  a  dress  suit  and  not  many  imperiled 
their  lives  and  the  lives  of  the  spectators  by  dancing.  How- 
ever, it  was  continued  until  ten  o'clock.  The  captain  tripped 
his  light  fantastic  sea-soaked  toes  and  people  pronounced  him 
graceful." — Parke. 


It  was  very  curious  to  see  couples  start  out  with  the  inten- 
tion of  "sashaing"  down  the  middle  and  up  the  side,  but  who 
meandered  unsteadily  over  the  whole  available  space  without 
rhyme  or  reason.  It  surely  gave  great  amusement  and  pleasure, 
but  of  a  very  different  kind  from  that  enjoyed  on  shore. 


SPAIN 
Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


SPAIN 


Gibraltar,  Alhatnbra,  Granada,  The  Moors ;  Bibliography 


Field,  Hekrv  M.     Gibraltar.     Illustrated,     New  Yoik. 

Gibraltar  and  its  Sieges.     London. 

Henty,   George  Alfred.     Held   Fast   for   England :    A   Tale  of    the    Siege    of 

Gibraltar. 
Irving,   Washington.     The  Alhambra.      The   "  Darro   Edition."      2  vols.      30 

photogravures.    New  York. 
Marvin,  Arthur  (Edited  by).     The  Alhambra.     Illustrated. 
Stoddard,  Dr.  Chas.  A.     Spanish  Cities,  with  Glimpses  of  Gibraltar  and  Tangiers. 

18  Illustrations.     New  York. 
Irving,  Washington.    The  Conquest  of  Granada.    2  voh.    New  York. 
Froude,  Prof.  James  Anth.    The  Spanish  Story  of  the  Armada,  and  other  Essays. 

New  York. 
Lea,  H.  C.     Chapters  from  the  Religious  History  of  Spain.     Philadelphia. 
Hume,  M.  A.  S.    Modern  Spain.   Illustrated.   (Story  of  the  Nation's  Ser.)  New  York. 
Prescott,  W.    H,     History  of  the  Reign  of  Ferdinand  and    Isabella.     Edited   by 

J.  F.  Kirk.     London. 
Greenlee,  William  MacC.     In   the  Shadow  of  the   Alhambra  ;    or,   Last  of  the 

Moorish  Kings. 
Bulwer-Lvtton.     Leila  ;  or.  Siege  of  Granada. 
GuENOT,  Henri.     Moors  of  Granada  (translated). 
Brabazon,  Elizabeth  J.     Tales  from  Spanish  History. 

Amicis,  E.  de.     Spain  and  the  Spaniards,     pp.  438      Illustrated.     New  York. 
Hare,  A.  J.  C.     Wanderings  in  Spain.     Illustrated.     London. 
Cervantes,  Miguel  de.     Don  Quixote. 
Landor,  Robert.     Fawn  of  Sertorius. 
ALAR90N,  Pedro  Antonio  de.     Moors  and  Christians. 
Jaccaci,  August  F.     On  the  Trail  of  Don  Quixote.     Illustrated. 
Middlemore,  Mrs.  S.  G.     Spanish  Legendary  Tales.     London. 
Coppee,  H.     History  of  the  Conquest  of  Spain  by  the  Arab   Moors  (translated). 

2  vols.     Boston. 
Pool,  S.  Lane.    The  Moors  in  Spain.   Maps  and  illustrations.   (Story  of  the  Nation. 

Popular  Series.     Very  good.)     New  York. 
Yonge,  Miss.     Christians  and  Moors  in  Spain.     New  York. 
Neai.e,  John  Mason.     Rescue  ;  a  Tale  of  the  Moorish  Conquest  of  Spain.     (In  his 

tales  illustrating  Church  history.) 
Guerville,  a.  B.  de.     Bull  Fights  ;   Beauties  and  Heroes  of  Spanish  Bull  Fight. 

Illustrated. 
Carpenter,  M.  T.     Gibraltar.     A  Fortress  of  Centuries.     Cosmopolilan,  vol.  19. 
Alling,  J.  T.     Pillars  of  Hercules.     Cosmopolitan,  vol.  i,  page  299. 
Reid,  W.  J.  The  Alhambra.   National  Magazine  (Boston),  vol.  8,  page  415  (August, 

1898). 
Pennell,  E.  R.     Lights  and  Shadows  of  the  Alhambra.    Century  Magazine,  vol.30, 

page  198. 
Kelly,  E.     An  American  in  Madrid  during  the  War.     Century  Magazine,  vol.  57, 

page  450  (January,  1899). 
Pennell,  J.     Bicycle  Trip  in  Spain.     Contemporary  Review  (London),  vol.  73,  page 

714  (May,  1898). 


Carved  on  a  Stone  Sentry  Box  at  Gibraltar 
God  and  the  soldier  all  men  adore 
When  there  is  trouble,  and  then  no  more, 
For  when  the  trouble  is  righted 
(lod  is  neglected  and  the  soldier  slighted. 


WflTERPORT.      ^ 

Permit  until  first  evening    CQ 
gunfire.  lO 


D. 


JOHN   BENNET, 
Cliief  of  Police. 


^ 


(47) 


48  Gibraltar^  Malaga,  Alhambra 


^*  Like  a  huge  British  Lion  reclininj  in  tv^lchful  attitude  " 

GIBRALTAR,  THE  ALHAMBRA  AND  THE  MOORS 
A  Lecture  delivered  on  Shipboard 

Ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  "Alter''  Cruise :  I  feel  myself 
somewhat  embarrassed  in  attempting  to  perform  the  task  which 
you  have  been  led  to  believe  by  Mr.  Clark's  largely  circulated 
inflammatory  circulars,  I  am  set  down  to  perform,  viz  :  Tell  you 
all  about  Gibraltar,  Alhambra  and  the  Moors  in  one  lecture. 

I  am  sure  I  did  not  understand  the  seriousness  of  the 
request,  when  I  so  lightly  accepted  the  invitation,  as  did  not  the 
Frenchman  who  was  asked  to  perform  another  serious  function. 
However,  he  had  the  wisdom  to  inquire  before  accepting. 
Coming  up  to  an  American,  he  asked,  politely  :  "  My  dear  sir, 
will  you  not  tell  me  what  ze  polar  bear  do  ? "  "You  want  to 
know  what  a  polar  bear  does?"  "Yes,  yes;  what  ze  polar 
bear  do  ?"  "Well,  he  sits  on  the  ice."  "Oh,  mon  dieu,  he 
sits  on  ze  ice?"  "Yes,"  said  the  American,  "there  is  nothing 
else  for  him  to  sit  on."  "Veil,  vat  he  also  do?"  "He  eats 
raw  fish."  "  Oh,  mon  dieu,  mon  dieu.  I  cannot,  I  cannot.  A 
polar  bear  eats  raw  fish  and  sits  on  ze  ice.  Then  I  not 
accept."  "Why,  what  do  you  mean?  What  will  you  not 
accept?"  "Oh,  non,  non,  I  does  not  accept  polar  bear  (pall- 
bearer) to  a  funeral." 

Now,  my  friends,  I  promise  that  this  performance  will  not 
be  so  lugubrious  as  a  funeral,  for  I  purpose  to  turn  over  an 
humorous  tale  at  every  convenient  corner. 

But  to  return  to  my  difficulty,  in  the  first  place,  I  realize 
that  I  cannot  hope  to  tell  all  of  you  something  new,  for  surely 
most  of  you  who  have  undertaken  so  long  and  glorious  a  trip 
must  have  prepared  yourselves  diligently  by  reading  the  various 
Guide  Books  and  books  of  travel  pertaining  to  the  route  over 
which  we  are  to  go,  and  in  which  every  conceivable  bit  of 
information    has    been    gathered    up  in   one  form    or  another. 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


49 


Then  again,  I  am  limited  as  to  time.  I  am  not  to  weary 
by  a  prolonged  discourse  the  already  over  bur  defied  and  studious 
and  fully  occtipicd  members  of  this  party,  who  breakfast 
from  seven  to  eleven,  lunch  from  eleven  to  three,  and  dine  or 
sleep  from  three  to  nine  ;  and  who  ought  to  exclaim,  as  did  the 
country-man  when  glibly  told  similar  hours  for  meals  by  the 
hotel  clerk,  "Jerushy!  when  am  I  going  to  git  time  to  see 
the  town  !" 

I  have  therefore  tried  to  think  out  and  select  carefully  for 
the  xvearied  and  preoccupied  such  material  as  will  cover  the 
ground  as  briefly  and  thoroughly  as  possible  without  making 
simply  a  catalogue  of  sights  and  wonders,  which  might  easily 
be  done.  For  the  most  part  Guide  Books  give  the  places  ot 
interest,  and  I  can  only  hope  to  rehearse  and  condense  many 
thinors  therein  set  down  and  to  revive  before  the  delightful 
moment  of  our  visit,  your  memories  and  your  reading.  This 
is  my  acknowledgment  to  the  various  books  from  which  I  have 
quoted.  I  am,  therefore,  in  the  happy  condition  of  the  Southern 
darkey  who  was  accused  of  stealing  wood  from  his  master's 
wood-pile.  "  No,  Massa  James,  I  ain't  been  stealin'  no  wood 
oft'n  your  wood-pile,  no  how."  "  Now,  Sambo,  I  know  you  are 
lying  ;  I  know  you  have  been  stealing  wood  off  niy  wood  pile." 
"  Lor',  no,  Massa  James,  I  han't  been  stealing  no  wood  off'n 
your  wood-pile.  Some  o'  dem  lyin'  niggers  been  lyin'  on  me." 
"  Now,  look  here.  Sambo,  I  saw  you  steal  that  wood  off  the 
wood-pile."      "O,  lor',  Massa  James,  dat's  all  right,  if  you  saw 


'  Hone^cumted  tvith  galienes  and  bristling  ■with  CAiion  ' 


50  Gibraltar,  Mala8;a,  Alhambra 

me  stealin'  that  wood  oft'n  de  wood-pile  dat's  all  right,  but  I  tot 
it  was  some  of  dem  lyin'  niggers  lyin'  on  me." 

Like  Sambo,  I  say  to  those  who  know  the  sources  of  infor- 
mation, that's  all  right ;  I  know  you  know.  Don't  accuse  me, 
therefore,  of  piracy  without  acknowledgment. 

I  am  to  speak  to  you  of  Gibraltar,  the  Alhambra  and  the 
Moors,  and  volumes  have  been  written  on  each  subject.  Most 
of  you  are  familiar  with  the  picture  of  the  huge  rock  Gibraltar, 
and  when  we  glide  into  the  harbor  will  recognize  it  at  once, 
looking  like  a  huge  British  lion  reclining  in  watchful  attitude 
overlooking  the  straits  between  Europe  and  Africa,  at  the  nar- 
rov/est  point,  but  thirteen  miles  in  width. 

The  rock  is  limestone,  three  miles  long,  irregular  in  width, 
six  miles  in  circumference,  rising  1400  feet,  more  or  less,  above 
the  sea,  and  is  literally  honeycombed  with  long  tunnelled  gal- 
leries arranged  in  tiers,  each  a  mile  and  a  half  in  length, 
while  from  holes  or  windows  in  these  galleries  two  thousand 
cannon,  more  or  less,  overlook  the  straits  and  town.  These 
straits  are  forty  miles  long.  On  the  one  side  is  the  Atlantic 
pouring  its  waters  continuously  into  the  Mediterranean,  which 
from  its  location  evaporates  so  rapidly  that  the  current  is  always 
in  this  direction. 

The  Phoenicians  centuries  ago  believed  that  this  was  the 
end  of  the  world,  and  tried  to  make  others  believe  it,  perhaps 
so  that  they  could  hold  the  monopoly  of  the  trade.  The  Pillars  of 
Hercules  mentioned  by  these  navigators  were  thought  to  have 
been  Calpe,  the  Greek  name  for  Gibraltar,  and  Abyla,  the 
mountain  on  the  opposite  side  in  Africa. 

The  Romans,  it  is  said,  in  spite  of  their  enterprise  and 
curiosity,  never  went  beyond  the  Pillars  of  Hercules  until  the 
time  of  the  Emperor  Augustus.  The  name  Gibraltar  is  derived 
from  Gebal-el-Taric,  a  Moorish  warrior  who  landed  at  this  point, 
April,  7,  711,  and  gave  his  name  to  the  place.  The  rock  was 
fortified  and  held  by  the  Moors  till  1 309,  about  600  years,  then 
captured   by  -Spain,  and  twenty-seven  years  after,  recaptured 

again  by  the  Moors,  and  held  by  them 
for  one  hundred  and  twenty-nine  years  ; 
finally  it  was  wrested  from  them  once 
more  and  incorporated  by  the  Spanish 
Crown  in  i  502,  and  so  retained  for  202 
years. 


*'  Greai  Guns  ' 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


5t 


In  the  war  for  the  Spanish  succession  the  Kings  of  France 
and  Austria  claimed  the  throne  left  vacant  on  the  death  of 
Charles  the  Second  without  heir.  Historians  tell  us  that  the 
complications  became  so  numerous,  through  the  operations  of 
the  King  of  France,  who  succeeded  in  having  his  second  grand- 
son, Philip,  made  king,  that  Great  Britain  and  Germany  and 
Holland  entered  into  an  alliance  against  France  and  Spain.  It 
was  the  fourth  year  of  that  war,  on  the  24th  of  July,  1704,  that 
the  rock  was  attacked  and 
captured  by  an  English 
force,  though  it  was  taken 
in  the  name  of  the  Austrian 
Duke.  At  the  end  of  the 
conflict  Gibraltar  was  given 
to  Great  Britain,  which  did 
not  value  the  acquisition, 
and  George  the  First  was 
ready  to  relinquish  what 
was  generally  thought  to 
be  a  "barren  rock,  an  in- 
significant fort  and  a  use- 
less charge."  Spain  tried 
to  conquer  it  soon  afterward 
but  failed.  It  was  again  be- 
sieged by  France  in  1779. 
In  I  780  Spain  joined  France 
in  a  siege  lasting  four  years. 

An  English  author,  with  pardonable  pride,  speaking  of  the 
repulse  of  the  besieging  force,  says  :  "  It  ended  in  the  repulse 
of  the  enemy,  whose  floating  batteries,  the  invention  of  the 
ingenious  M.  de  Arcon,  which  he  had  declared  could  neither  be 
burned,  sunk  nor  taken,  were  either  burned,  sunk  or  taken  by 
plain  Englishmen,  who  stood  to  their  guns  on  that  13th  day  of 
September,  1783."  It  costs  the  English  Government  to-day, 
some  say,  about  five  million  dollars  to  support  this  fortress, 
and  that  without  any  profit.  It  is  tremendously  fortified,  as 
you  will  see,  and  perhaps,  in  some  respects,  is  the  strongest 
fortification  in  the  world.  It  is  one  of  the  outposts  of  England 
on  her  way  to  her  eastern  dominions.  A  line  of  these  we  will 
pass,  by  and  by,  such  as  Malta  and  Cyprus  and  Alexandria. 


SHfutral  Strip— Bull  Ring-Gate%uay—Rock  Window— Parade  Ground 


52  Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 

At  Gibraltar  England's  fleets  are  sheltered,  provisioned 
and  coaled.  It  is  the  great  watch  tower  from  w^hich  the  move- 
ments of  warships  can  be  observed  and  telegraphed  to  England 
looo  miles  away.  The  English  are  constantly  adding  to  the 
effectiveness  of  their  guns  and  their  fortifications.  We  will  see 
every  evidence  of  war  and  fortifications  and  English  possession. 

Gibraltar  contains  about  30,000  inhabitants  and  seven  or 
eight  thousand  English  soldiers,  so  that  red  coated  soldiers  are 
everywhere  in  evidence.  Mark  them  well,  for  they  will  contrast 
most  favorably  with  the  soldiers  of  any  other  country. 

At  Gibraltar  we  will  get  our  first  glimpse  of  Oriental  peo- 
ples. The  proximity  to  Africa  brings  blacks  and  Nubians, 
Egyptians  and  Arabs,  Moors  and  Turks,  Greeks  and  Jews, 
Spaniards  and  Red  Coats  into  this  famous  place  and  the  disput- 
ing, bargaining,  gesticulating,  many-tongued  crowd  will  make 
a  strong  appeal  to  Western  eyes  and  ears. 

The  town  of  Gibraltar  is  surrounded  by  a  wall,  and  the 
gates  are  shut  at  sundown  and  not  opened  until  sunrise 
Passes  are  issued  for  entrance  during  the  time  between.  There 
are  no  public  buildings  of  any  particular  interest  in  Gibraltar, 
though  the  white-washed  barracks  of  the  soldiers  and  the  tre- 
mendous fortifications,  as  I  have  said,  are  everywhere  in 
evidence. 

When  we  were  at  Gibraltar  in  1895  no  pictures  were 
allowed  to  be  taken  within  the  fortifications  ;  I  suppose  the 
same  rule  holds  to-day.  England  follows  the  rule  of  many 
other  nations  and  jealously  guards  her  secrets  of  strength. 

We  were  much  interested  in  seeing  the  huge  apes  on  top 
of  the  rock.  They  are  tailless  and  harmless,  but  great  thieves 
and  frequently  come  down  and  rob  the  gardens  of  the  people. 
Some  authors  suppose  that  it  is  from  here  the  apes  obtained  by 
Solomon  were  found  ;  that  it  was  from  here  those  described  in 
1st  Kings  loth  chapter  and  22d  verse  came  :  "  For  the  king  had 
at  sea  a  navy  of  Tharshish  with  the  navy  of  Hiram  :  once  in 
three  years  came  the  navy  of  Tharshish,  bringing  gold  and  sil- 
ver, ivory,  and  apes  and  peacocks." 

It  is  thought  that  Andalusia  was  the  Tharshish  of  the  old 
time  and  that  these  are  the  descendants  of  the  apes  for  which 
Solomon  sent. 

Those  who  have  read  Mark  Twain's  humorous  description 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


53 


"  The  PilUr  of  Hercules  looms  abovs  " 

will  be  on  the  lookout  for  the  Queen's  chair,  the  high  hill  on 
which  one  of  the  Queens  took  her  seat  when  the  French  and 
Spanish  troops  were  besieging  Gibraltar  and  said  she  would 
never  move  from  the  spot  until  the  English  flag  was  lowered 
from  the  fortress.  If  the  English  had  not  been  gallant  enough 
to  lower  the  flag  for  a  few  hours  one  day,  she  would  have  had 
to  break  her  oath  or  die  up  there.  This  story  Mark  declares 
nearly  killed  him. 

It  is  supposed  that  Gibraltar  was  connected  with  Africa  at 
one  time  and  that  there  were  no  Straits  here,  but  in  the  historic 
period  there  is  no  evidence  of  the  truth  of  this  supposition. 
St.  George's  Hill  and  Europa  Point  ought  to  be  seen,  and  a 
drive  taken  to  the  little  fishing  village  around  the  corner  of  the 
rock,  and,  perhaps,  over  the  neutral  ground  to  the  Spanish  forti- 
fications. The  Crows  Nest,  too,  ought  to  be  seen,  a  ledge  of 
overhanging  rock  six  or  seven  hundred  feet  high,  which  yawns 


54  Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 

fearfully  over  the  water,  and  this  reminds  me  of  the  story  of 
the  long-winded  nephew  of  an  old  lady,  who  had  been  droning 
on  for  some  hours  about  his  travels  in  Switzerland.  "And 
there  I  stood,"  he  said,  "Aunt  Susan,  with  the  abyss  yawning 
in  front  of  me."  "William,"  said  Aunt  Susan,  speakingas  one 
who  had  long  kept  silence,  "  was  that  abyss  a-yawning  before 
you  got  there  or  did  it  begin  afterward  ?" 

It  is  noteworthy  in  this  connection  to  recall  the  fact  that 
Honorable  Horatio  J.  Sprague  has  been  our  Consul  at  Gibraltar 
for  over  fifty  years  and  that  his  father  filled  the  place  before  him. 
This  for  a  country  which  is  sending  with  each  new  administration 
some  new  products  abroad  ;  such  as  Hay  to  England  and  Po7^/er 
to  France  and  an  Angel  to  Turkey  ought  to  linger  in  our 
memories. 

It  will  be  good  to  get  back  to  the  ship  again  after  our  day 
of  sight-seeing  and  while  we  sleep  or  dine  our  ship  will  glide 
round  the  corner  of  the  Straits  and  anchor  at  Malaga,  a  city 
whose  name  reminds  us  of  grapes  and  fine  wines  and  which 
contains  the  largest  iron  mills  in  Spain.  It  is  also  the  home  of 
the  Spanish  Lorings,  a  branch  of  the  Massachusetts  family  of 
that  name,  who  have  obtained  great  wealth  and  rank  in  Spain 
through  railroad  building  and  through  intermarriage  with  the 
princes  of  the  land.  It  is  said  that  the  superior  condition  of  the 
streets,  public  buildings  and  many  other  improvements  about 
Malaga  is  due  to  this  American  blood.  There  are  beautiful 
parks  and  some  notable  structures  in  Malaga  well  worth  a  visit. 

Here  will  be  seen  on  the  streets  typical  Spanish  life. 

Spanish  beggars  everywhere  with  extended  hands  and 
tears  on  tap  tumbling  out  of  every  doorway  and  following  us  at 
every  appearance.  Long  gowned  curiously  robed  priests,  and 
policemen  like  soldiers,  and  peddlers  with  all  kinds  of  wares  in 
innumerable  baskets  on  diminutive  donkeys. 

Our  gallants  will  not  fail  to  notice  on  the  graceful  balconies 
to  be  seen  so  frequently  everywhere  the  black-eyed  Spanish 
senoras  and  senoritas,  with  their  picturesque  lace  mantles  and 
mischief  making  eyes  ;  nor  will  the  ladies  fail  to  see  the  Span- 
ish Dons,  handsome,  gracious,  courtly  and  picturesque. 

There  will  be  many  new  and  unusual  and  interesting  sights, 
but  Malaga  is  but  the   beginning  of  a   most  charming  journey 


Gibraltar,  Malagfa,  Alhambra 


55 


through  Spain.  For  the  greater  part  of  a  day  we  will  ride  in 
curious  apartment  cars  past  great  olive  orchards  and  hedge  rows 
of  blossominor  almonds,  and  orange  and  lemon  trees,  through 
sharp  ravines,  and  savage  gorges  with  the  snow-clad  Sierra 
Nevadas  many  times  in  sight,  on,  on  up  to  the  old  city  of 
Granada,  the  seat  of  the  Alhambra. 

Says  a  traveler  :  "  The  ride  to  Granada  for  more  than  sixty 
miles  is  increasingly  grand.  The  Sierra  Nevadas  rise  to 
a  height  of  nearly 
twelve  thousand  feet, 
while  other  ranges 
are  visible  in  every 
quarter.  Our  train 
plunges  (if  so  ener- 
getic a  term  can  be 
used  of  Spanish  rail- 
roading) through  wild 
mountain  gorges  and 
dark  tunnels,  around 
the  base  of  danger- 
ous looking  cliffs  as 
wild  as  the  Rockies, 
over  pieces  of  road 
which  compare  favor- 
ably with  our  own 
engineering,  under 
similar  difficulties."  in  the  stents 

Notice  the  wide  unfenced  fields,  the  irrigating  ditches,  the 
laborers,  the  houses  ;  they  are  all  distinctive  and  interesting. 

The  City  of  Granada,  so  called  from  the  granates  or 
pomegranates  which  formerly  grew  so  profusely  here,  is  built 
on  hills,  spurs  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  at  a  height  of  more  than 
two  thousand  feet  above  the  sea  level.  All  around  are  charm- 
ing valleys,  watered  by  streams  from  the  Sierras,  and  the 
country,  although  It  is  February,  will  look  like  our  Middle 
States  in  May  or  June.  The  Alhambra  is  the  focus  and  centre 
of  our  Interest,  and  also  the  gem  and  the  setting  of  Granada. 

Says  Buckley  :  "  In  the  deepest  valley  of  the  most  gloomy 
desert  on  the  globe  it  would   intoxicate   and   enthral,   but    Its 


56 


Gibraltar,  Malagfa,  Alhambra 


situation  increases  its  fascination  immeasurably.  I  doubt  if 
earth  contains  a  grander  natural  setting  for  a  more  astonishing 
human  creation."  Yet,  even  with  this,  I  am  convinced  that  the 
man  or  woman  who  is  not  familiar  with  the  legends  and  stories, 
and  traditions  and  history  of  the  place,  or  who  lacks  imagi- 
nation, will  miss  the  real  charm  which  enthralls  and  captivates. 

Our  own  Washington  Irving,  who  lived  in  the  Alhambra 
for  many  months,  says  :  "To  the  traveler  imbued  with  a  feeling 
for  the  historical  and  poetical,  so  perceptibly  intertwined  in  the 
annals  of  romantic  Spain,  the  Alhambra  is  as  much  an  object 
of  devotion  as  is  the  Caaba  to  all  true  Moslems.     How  many 


Our  Spanish  Carriages 

legends  and  traditions,  true  and  fabulous,  how  many  songs  and 
ballads,  Arabian  and  Spanish,  ot  love  and  war  and  chivalry, 
are  associated  with  this  oriental  pile.  It  was  the  royal  abode 
of  the  Moorish  kings,  where,  surrounded  with  splendors  and 
refinements  of  Asiatic  luxury,  they  held  dominion  over  what 
they  vaunted  as  a  terrestrial  paradise,  and  made  their  last  stand 
for  empire  in  Spain." 

No  work  of  art,  as  you  know,  has  been  so  fully  described 
as  the  Alhambra.  It  has  formed  the  theme  of  history,  of 
poetry,  of  romance,  of  fiction,  of  science,  until  the  whole  has 
become  a  web  of  fact  and  fiction  inextricably  woven  together. 
The  whole  has  a  distinct  fiavor  of  age  and  of  mystery,  which 
carries  the  mind  back  to  a  dreamy  past.  There  is  a  legend 
which  declares  that  Adam  visited  the  earth  a  few  years  ago 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra  57 

to  see  how  his  farm  was  coming  on.  When  he  alighted  in 
Germany,  he  found  there  schools  and  colleges,  and  universities 
and  books,  and  a  world  interested  in  learning.  In  France  he 
found  a  world  of  art  and  fancy  and  fashion,  and  so  on  from 
country  to  country.  He  was  disgusted,  but  when  he  came  to 
Spain  he  exclaimed,  "  This  is  just  as  I  left  it.  Here  is  paradise." 
It  is  striking  to  note  that  the  Moors  gave  to  Granada  the 
name  of  "Damascus  of  the  west",  because,  like  Damascus, 
the  Alhambra  crowned  the  hill  like  the  great  dome  which  shows 
in  the  sun  like  the  temple  of  the  King  of  Kings  in  another  city. 
But  here  are  the  same  sky,  and  plains,  and  hills  upon  which  the 
Moors  first  looked,  wherein  they  lived  and  loved  and  delighted 
for  so  many  years.  And  here,  too,  is  part  of  the  same  palace 
of  beauty  and  refinement  and  exquisite  grace,  revealing  a 
surprising  refinement  and  culture,  until  one  is  ready  to  exclaim  : 
"The  greatest  calamity  which  ever  happened  to  Spain  was 
the  expulsion  of  the  Moors  !  for  truly  art  and  science  and 
refinement  have  never  flourished  here  since." 

The  royal  palace  of  the  Alhambra  forms  but  a  part  of  the 
fortress  commonly  called  by  that  name.  The  walls  around  the 
inclosure  are  studded  with  towers,  which  stretch  irregularly 
around  the  whole  crest  of  the  hill,  which  is,  as  I  have  said,  a 
spur  of  the  Sierra  Nevadas,  and  overlooks  the  city.  Externally 
it  is  a  rude  congregation  of  towers  and  battlements,  with  no 
regularity  of  plan  nor  grace  of  architecture,  and  gives  little 
promise  of  the  grace  and  beauty  which  prevails  within. 

Says  one  :  "The  Moors,  in  everything  differing  from  the 
Greeks  and  Romans,  never  cared  much  for  the  exterior — made 
it  as  plain  as  possible  ;  but  the  interior  revealed,  as  with  a  sud- 
den burst  of  sunrise,  a  profusion  and  wealth  of  decoration 
which  would  alike  astonish  and  captivate." 

The  first  impression  of  most  travelers  is  that  of  disappoint- 
ment, and  there  is  a  tendency  to  disparaging  criticism.  Our 
party  will  not  be  an  exception.  The  dreams  and  fancies 
of  childhood's  illusions  will  be  dissipated  in  the  presence 
of  the  reality.  The  thrill  of  the  expected  enchantment  will 
be  missed.  But  we  may  well  believe  that  careful  observa- 
tion and  the  reading  of  the  charming  works  which  have 
been  written  v;ill,  with  the  reality  and  by  the  aid  of  imagination, 


58 


Gitraltar,  Malaga,  Alhamfcra 


by  and  by  transcend  all  our  expectations  and  repay  us  a 
thousand  fold  in  the  future  lor  the  pilgrimage  to  this  crowning 
glory  of  Moorish  architecture. 

Like  the  Kremlin  at  Moscow,  the  Alhambra,  we  must 
remember,  is  an  inclosure,  a  half  mile  long  and  an  eighth  of  a 
mile  wide,  and  of  irregular  shape.  The  palace  itself  occupies 
but  a  small  part.  The  guide  books  carefully  describe  the 
various  features  of  the  place.  I  shall  not  attempt  a  detailed 
description  here. 

The  architecture  of  the  Alhambra  has  been  called  "cob- 
web on  the  solid  rock — a  blending  of  solid  forms  borrowed 
from  an  earlier  people,  with  the  dainty  tracery  of  the  Arabian — 

exhausting  all  con- 
ceivable designs  in 
its  arrangement  of 
graceful  and  com- 
plex lines.  As  a 
whole  it  is  a  com- 
bination of  slender 
columns  and  Moorish 
arches,  supporting 
great,  overhanging 
masses  ;  of  vaulted 
ceiling,  reduplicated 
many  times  within 
itself  in  diminished  form,  and  with  pendant  like  stalactites, 
rich  in  color  ;  of  arch  and  architrave,  cornice  and  wall, 
covered  with  the  purest  of  arabesque,  of  woven  lines,  of  intri- 
cate pattern  and  infinite  variety  of  design,  all  in  relief  and 
picked  out  in  strongly  contrasting  colors,  which  in  the  original 
have  stood  the  test  of  seven  centuries,  remaining  as  brio-ht 
to-day,  and  as  harmonious,  as  the  brilliant,  closely-woven  colors 
of  a  Persian  shawl." 

If  I  can  awaken  attention  in  the  minds  of  some  to  these 
various  characteristics,  I  shall,  indeed,  feel  myself  rewarded. 

The  supports  in  some  of  the  rooms  are  concealed,  so  that 
the  apparent  supports  (thin  pillars  and  cashmere,  perforated 
fabrics  which  seem  like  fairy  work)  appear  incapable  of  sus- 
taining the  roof  There  are  divans,  and  alcoves,  and  courts 
with  orange  trees,  and  gardens  filled  once  with  tropical  vegeta- 


On  to  Granada 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


59 


77ie  Alhambra 


tion,  in  the  very  midst  of  the  building.  Then,  too,  there  are 
inscriptions  from  the  Koran  to  be  seen  everywhere,  such  as 
"  There  is  no  conqueror  but  Allah."  Note  well  the  Court  of 
Lions,  with  its  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  pillars  of  white 
marble,  eleven  feet  high,  upholding  porticoes  on  each  side  ;  all 
these  by  the  aid  of  a  little  imagination  will  transform  this  curious 
place  from  a  tumble-down  building  into  a  very  palace  of  the 
Arabian  Nights  entertainment. 

If,  with  fertile  imagination  and  poetic  fancy,  we  stand  in 
these  old  courts  and  halls  and  look  up  to  the  balconies  and 
latticed  windows,  we  may  repeople  the  place  with  graceful, 
noble  men,  and  women  of  exquisite  beauty.  We  can  hear  in 
fancy  again  the  splash  of  the  cooling  fountains  and  the  soft  love 
songs  to  the  accompaniment  of  the  guitar  ;  we  may  see  again 
the  delectable  gardens,  the  flowers  and  foliage,  the  fragrant 
baths,  the  gay  cavaliers,  the  halls  and  courts  and  colonnades 
filled  with  the  chivalry  of  Moslem  Moors.  And  darker 
pictures,  too,  will  throng  before  us  :  for  instance,  in  the  hall  of 
the  Abencerrages  a  gay  and  brilliant  company  will  fill  the  place 
in  response  to  the  invitation  of  the  wily  Sultan  to  a  sumptuous 
banquet,  while  a  few  brave  and  gallant  cavaliers  of  an  illustrious 


60  Gibraltar,  Malagfa,  Alhambra 

line  are  there  as  guests.  In  the  course  of  the  feast  one  and 
another  will  be  called  out  to  some  new  promised  entertainment 
in  the_  Court  of  Lions  near  by  and  there  beheaded,  until  the 
head  of  every  illustrious  guest  is  severed  from  his  body,  and 
the  fountain  becomes  indeed  a  fountain  filled  with  blood.  And 
not  once  alone  did  this  become  a  fountain  of  blood,  but  again 
in  the  midst  of  this  splendor  and  luxury  and  beauty  were  all 
the  children  of  Abu  Haren  beheaded  by  their  own  father's 
order,  save  one  only,  the  unhappy  Boabdil,  the  last  Moorish 
king,  who  lived  to  regret  it.  As  we  pass  into  the  Hall  of  the 
Ambassadors,  in  imagination,  we  may  see  the  Sultan  seated  on 
a  magnificent  throne,  while  in  the  niches,  in  regal  state,  are 
placed  the  ambassadors  from  foreign  courts.  Open  diplomacy 
is  apparendy  being  exercised,  but  secret  intrigue  and  jealousy 
and  suspicion  are  plotting  secret  murder,  which  finally  builds 
its  victims  into  dark  recesses  beneath  this  very  place  ;  living 
tombs  in  which  bravery  and  valor  and  love  went  mad  and 
rotted. 

Or,  as  we  wander  through  the  Linda  Raxa,  or  Pretty 
Rachael,  we  may  see  the  dressing-room,  in  one  of  the  towers,  of 
the  unhappy  queen  who  gave  the  place  the  name  through  her 
imprisonment.  Note  the  curious  marble  slab,  pierced  with 
holes,  under  which  was  placed  the  chamber  in  which  the  per- 
fumes were  prepared  for  her  delectation.  As  the  odors  ascended 
the  queen,  standing  over  this  slab  with  all  her  rich  apparel,  was 
made  sweetly  fragrant,  just  as  in  the  ancient  days.  Queen 
Esther,  of  the  Bible  story,  was  perfumed  when  similar  means 
were  used  for  making  lovely  women  breathe  forth  the  odor  of 
flowers. 

But  who  built  the  Alhambra,  and  why  ?  is  asked.  Histo- 
rians tell  us  that  "A  thousand  years  before  Christ  the  Phoeni- 
cians had  discovered  the  resources  of  Spain  and  founded  Cadiz. 
Seven  hundred  years  later  the  Carthagenians,  their  descendants, 
had  subjugated  a  large  part  of  the  peninsula.  Five  hundred 
years  subsequently  the  Vandals,  after  ravaging  France,  swept 
through  the  passes  of  the  Pyrenees  into  Spain,  where  they 
settled  permanently.  Soon  afterward  the  Visigoths  went  from 
Italy  by  way  of  Southern  Gaul  into  Spain,  and  there  began  a 
series  of  struggles  with  the  Vandals  and  the  Romans. 


Gibraltar,  Malag:a,  Alhambra  61 

In  the  early  part  of  the  seventh  century  arose  in  Asia  the 
most  terrible  power  that  had  ever  appeared  in  modern  history 
— Mohammedanism.     In  less  than  seventy-five  years   after  the 

birth  of  Mohammed  the  Saracens 
had    overrun   all    the    lands    be- 
tween Armenia  and  Khiva,  and 
in     less    than    sixty    more    pos- 
sessed   themselves     of     North 
Africa,    ravaged    Asia     Minor 
and   besieged    Constantinople. 
About    the    beginning  of   the 
eighth    century    Spain 
was      invad- 
ed,    the 
hordes 
crossing 
the   straits 
under  Taric, 


••• 

iM 

m 

^^ 

i 

W-j  ^^^^^B 

and  landinor  at 
Algeciras,  near  Gibral- 
tar. The  name  Alhambra 
is  mentioned  for  the  first 
time  after  the  Moors  had 
been  in  power  in  Spain  for 
one  hundred  and  fifty  years. 
Its  meaning  is  simply  a 
"  Red  Tower." 

Speaking  of  names  re- 
minds one  of  the  despairing 
Frenchman,  who  exclaimed,  'T  cannot  understand  ze  language. 
I  learn  how  to  pronounce  ze  name  'hydrophobia,'  and  then 
I   learn  zat  ze  doctors  sometimes  pronounce  it  'fatal.'  " 

The  account  Irving  gives  of  the  founder  of  the  Alhambra, 
Alhamar,  is  most  interesting  and  fascinating.  Bear  with  me 
as  I  try  to  condense  a  portion  of  the  story.  It  will  give  a 
truer  picture  of  the  Moors  than  anything  else  I  can  do : 


Alhambra  Gate— Lunch — Interior 


62 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


"Alhamar,  the  Moor,  was  of  noble  birth,  highly  educated 
and  full  of  warlike  ambition  and  valor.  Gaining  one  conquest 
after  another,  he  became  finally  the  ruler  of  the  whole  of  Anda- 
lusia. What  he  was  not  able  to  gain  by  valor  he  secured  by 
generosity.  In  Granada  he  established  his  court  and  displayed 
a  wisdom  and  far-sightedness  in  fortifying  his  kingdom  and 
promoting  useful  arts  which  speedily  gave  him  wealth  and  real 
power.  He  organized  a  vigilant  police  and  established  rigid 
rules  for  the  administration  of  justice.  The  poor  and  the  dis- 
tressed always  found  ready  admission  to  his  presence,  and  he 
attended  personally  to  their  assistance  and  redress.    He  erected 


*^Uke  a  cloud  of  rare  old  yellow  lace  " 

hospitals  for  the  blind,  the  aged,  the  infirm,  and  all  those 
incapable  of  labor,  and  visited  these  places  frequently  in 
person. 

"  He  founded  schools  and  colleges,  he  established  butch- 
eries and  public  ovens,  that  the  people  might  be  furnished  with 
wholesome  provisions  at  just  and  regular  prices.  He  intro- 
duced abundant  streams  of  water  into  the  city,  erecting  baths 
and  fountains,  and  constructing  aqueducts  and  canals  to  irrigate 
and  fertilize  the  Vega.  By  these  means  prosperity  and  abund- 
ance prevailed  in  this  beautiful  city  and  its  surroundings  ;  its 
gates  were  thronged  with  commerce,  and  its  warehouses  filled 
with  luxuries  and  merchandise  of  every  clime  and  country. 

He  gave  premiums  and  privileges   to  the   best  artisans  ; 


Gibraltar,  Malag:a>  Alhambra  63 

improved  the  horses  and  domestic  animals  ;  encouraged  hus- 
bandry, and  increased  the  natural  fertility  of  the  soil  ;  fostered 
the  o-rowth  and  fabrication  of  silk,  until  the  looms  of  Granada 
surpassed  those  of  Syria  in  the  fineness  and  beauty  of  their 
productions.  He  opened  the  mines  of  gold  and  silver,"  and 
all  this  we  are  surprised  to  learn  was  the  work  of  a  man  way 
back  in  the  twelve  hundreds  ;  a  Mohammedan  withal  ;  a  savage 
Moor,  as  we  sometimes  think  of  them. 

'Magnificent  in  his  works  and  great  in  his  enterprises; 
he  was  simple  in  his  person  and  moderate  in  his  enjoyments. 
His  dress  was  not  merely  void  of  splendor,  but  so  plain  as  not 
to  distinguish  him  from  his  subjects.  His  wives  were  daughters 
of  the  principal  nobles,  and  were  treated  by  him  as  friends  and 
rational  companions,  and  what  is  more,  he  managed  to  make 
them  live  in  friendship  with  one  another.  He  delighted  in  read- 
ing histories  ;  employed  himself  in  the  instruction  of  his  three 
sons,  for  whom  he  provided  the  most  learned  and  virtuous 
masters. 

This  was  the  man  who  began  the  building  of  the  splendid 
palace  of  the  Alhambra,  superintending  it  in  person.  As  I  have 
read  and  pondered  upon  his  history,  he  has  reminded  me  in 
many  particulars  of  that  greatest  and  wisest  king  of  Israel, 
Solomon. 

Says  Irving:  "Though  Alhamar's  undertakings  were  vast, 
yet  his  treasury  was  always  full,  and  this  seeming  contradiction 
gave  rise  to  the  story  that  he  was  versed  in  magic  art,  and  pos- 
sessed the  secret  of  transmuting  baser  metals  into  gold. 

Those  who  have  attended  to  his  domestic  policy  will  easily 
understand  ihe  natural  magic  and  simple  alchemy  which  made 
his  ample  treasury  to  overflow. 

At  his  death  the  Alhambra  palace,  then  in  progress,  was 
finished  by  another  prince  of  the  same  noble  line,  Yusef,  bear- 
ino-  much  the  same  character,  eleg-ant  and  refined  in  his  taste, 
devoted  to  the  improvement  of  the  morals  and  manners  of  his 
people,  generous  and  open-minded  in  his  diplomacy." 

It  is  pleasant  to  reflect  that  such  an  enchanting  and  beau- 
tiful palace  was  the  work  of  men  of  such  excellent  character 
and  of  such  noble  purpose. 

If  any  one  cares  to  follow  up  the  interesting  story  of  the 
life  and  work  of   these  early  Moorish    rulers,   I  would   advise 


64 


Gibraltar,  Mataga,  Alhambra 


The  Alhambra 


Describe  it  ?  No,  I  thank  you.  Go  to  Washington  Irving  or  D'Amicis  for  that. 
When  you  can  pass  through  a  beautiful  pavilion,  the  roof  of  which  is  a  cloud  of 
rare,  old,  yellow  lace,  held  by  invisible  supports  ;  and  only  passing  through,  can 
picture  it  to  me  so  that  I  can  see  it  in  all  its  airy  splendor  :  then,  perhaps,  I  will  try 
in  return  to  give  you  a  conception  of  the  courts  and  halls  of  the  Alhambra,  and  tell 
you  of  colored  1  ice  cut  out  of  stone,  or  moulded  from  mortar. 

I  had  only  an  hour  to  see  it,  and  that  with  a  crowd  around  me,  and  the  Alham- 
bra cannot  be  seen  in  that  way.  What  little  I  did  grasp  made  me  feel  that  I  was 
gazing  upon  an  architectural  flower,  and  with  the  possible  exception  of  the  Taj 
Mahal,  the  most  beautiful  one  that  this  earth  has  ever  borne  upon  its  bosom. — G.  C.  S. 


I 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra  65 

him  to  read,  of  course,  first  Washington  Irving's  Alhambra  ; 
D' Amicis,  whose  emotion  and  imagination  make  him  so  absorb- 
ing and  misleading ;  the  book  of  Ford  ;  Urquehar's  Pillars  of 
Hercules  ;  Primes'  Khremlin  and  the  Alhambra,  etc.  ;  failing 
these,  at  present,  the  guide  books  of  Baedecker,  Appleton  and 
Murray  are  really  most  excellent,  and  can  be  procured,  no 
doubt,  on  the  vessel  or  at  almost  any  port. 

This  reminds  me  of  the  story  of  a  deaf  clergyman,  who 
asked  his  clerk  to  eive  out  a  notice  in  reference  to  the  use  of  a 
new  hymn  book.  The  clerk  had  a  notice  of  his  own  in  regard 
to  baptism  he  wanted  to  give  out  first.  At  the  close  of  the 
sermon  he  rose  and  announced  :  "  All  those  who  have  children, 
whom  they  wish  to  have  baptised,  will  please  send  their  names 
at  once  to  the  clerk."  The  clergyman,  who  was  deaf,  assuming 
that  the  clerk  had  given  out  the  hymn-book  notice,  immediately 
arose  and  said  :  "  And  I  should  say,  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
haven't  any,  that  they  may  be  obtained  at  the  vestry,  any  day 
from  three  to  four  o'clock  ;  the  ordinary  little  ones  at  one  shil- 
ling each,  and  the  special  ones,  with  red  backs,  at  one  shilling 
and  fourpence." 

Says  one,  "  To  understand  the  Alhambra,  it  must  be  visited 
often  and  alone  ;  at  night,  when  the  moon  floats  above  it  in  the 
air  like  its  crescent  symbol,  when  the  tender  beam  tips  the 
filigree  arches,  then  a  depth  is  given  to  the  shadows,  and  a 
misty,  undefined  magnitude  to  the  salons  beyond,  then,  in  pro- 
portion to  the  silence  around,  does  the  fancy  and  imagination 
become  alive.  The  shadows  of  the  cypresses  on  the  walls 
assume  the  form  of  the  dusky  Moor  as,  dressed  in  his  silken 
robes,  he  comes  to  lament  over  the  profanation  of  the  infidel 
and  the  devourment  of  the  destroyer." 

One  historical  question  remains.  When  did  the  Moors 
leave  Spain  ?  As  you  remember,  the  whole  of  Spain  had  not 
been  subdued  by  the  Moors.  Various  kingdoms  were  formed, 
that  of  Castile  being  the  most  powerful.  The  kingdom  of 
Aragon  spread  rapidly,  and  the  Moors  were  finally  restricted  to 
Granada.  In  1469,  when  P^rdinand,  of  Aragon,  married 
Isabella,  Queen  of  Castile  (their  bodies,  by  the  way,  now  lie  in 
the  Cathedral  at  Granada  in  leaden  coffins,  and  the  curious 
traveler  may  be  led  down  into  the  very  crypt  itself  and  touch 


66  Gibraltar,  Malagfa,  Alhambra 

the  old  encasements  of  these  two  distinguished  characters),  I 
repeat,  when  Ferdinand,  of  Aragon,  married  Isabella,  Queen  of 
Castile,  the  consolidation  of  Spain  into  one  empire  began. 
Granada  was  conquered  in  1492,  and  the  Moors  were  expelled 
from  the  peninsula,  the  year  of  the  discovery  of  America. 

We  are  told  that  Ferdinand  and  Isabella  resided  for  a  time 
in  the  Alhambra,  and  in  one  of  its  rooms  the  Queen  informed 

Christopher     Colum- 
""  bus    that    she    would 

support    him    in     his 
enterprise. 

So  soon  as  the 
Christian  obtained 
control  of  the  Al- 
hambra, however,  it 
must  be  noted  the 
work  of  its  devasta- 
tion commenced. 
When  Ferdinand  and 
Isabella  departed  the 
monks  and  soldiers 
did  what  they  could 
to  destroy  the  place.  They  whitewashed  the  open  work, 
coating  some  of  it  so  thick  that  a  pickax  was  required  to  remove 
it,  and  stole  and  destroyed  and  sold  the  furniture.  Charles 
the  Fifth,  determining  to  erect  a  palace,  tore  down  a  part  of 
the  Alhambra,  and  began  a  structure  which  has  never  been 
finished.  From  age  to  age  the 
building  deteriorated,  until 
finally  it  was  turned  into  an 
asylum  for  debtors  and  state 
prisoners.  When  the  French 
took  possession  in  18 10,  and 
again  in  181 2,  they  used  it 
for  barracks,  destroyed  every- 
thing they  could,  and  blew 
up  the  Mosque,  which  was 
said  to  have  had  no  rival  in 
the  world. 

They    mined     the    entire 


joncQrl  Pro^r^i^min 

Dampfer    ,,  ALLER" 
Montag,    den    14.    Februar  1898 


,,Erinnerung  an  Crefeld",  Marsch 
, ,  Germania-Ouverture" 
,,Les  Pantineurs",  Walzer 
,,Das  Grab  auf  der  Haide",  Lied 
,,  Parole  d'amour",  Fantasia 
,,Was  sich  Berlin  erzahlf',  Potp. 


ORDER  FOR  THE  DAY 
Wednesday,  February   J6th— Alhambra   Trip 

5  a.  in.  Bugle  call.  5.15  First  Sitting 
Breakfast.      (545  Second  Sitting). 

Land  in  steam  launches.  (Lunch  and 
dinner  from  ship).  7.15  sharp,  train  leaves 
Landing  Stage. 

Bobadilla,  10.2.  Coffee  or  tea  and  plate, 
etc.,  furnished  and  passengers  can  eat  part  of 
their  lunch  here. 

2.21  Granada.  Drive  up  to  Alhambra; 
then  eat  (ship's)  dinner  at  Hotel  Washington 
Irving,  which  is  in  the  Alhambra  grounds  ; 
coffee,  tea,  plate,  knife,  fork,  etc.,  furnished  at 
the  Hotel,  also  4  rooms  for  ladies  and  gentle- 
men to  wash  in. 

12.33  midnight  Malaga,  and  embark. 

F.  C.  Clark. 


Gibraltar,  Malag:a,  Alhambra  67 

structure,  and  would  have  annihilated  the  last  vestige  of  its 
grandeur  if  a  corporal  had  not  put  out  the  fuses.  After  the 
conquest  it  was  offered  to  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  but  he 
preferred  another  place,  which  is  still  owned  by  his  descend- 
ants (a  4000  acre  farm  given  to  him  as  a  token  of  gratitude  by 
the  Spanish  Government,  and  from  which  farm  a  revenue  of 
)^ 20,000  is  now  received  by  his  descendants).  It  was  not  until 
1842  that  the  repairs  and  restorations  of  the  Alhambra  began, 
but  these   have   since  been  carried  forward    with   success. 

Alas,  that  it  should  be  said  of  the  Christians  that  they 
sought  in  every  way  to  obliterate  all  traces  of  the  infidel  reli- 
gion through  their  lack  of  appreciation  of  the  elegance  of  the 
architecture,  and  their  inability  to  understand  the  refinement 


The  Court  of  ihe  Lions 


and  delicate  taste  of  the  so-called  heathen  Moor  who  produced 
it,  and  so  history  writes  them  down  as  guilty  in  their  stupidity 
of  inexcusable  vandalism. 

To-day  we  may  see  in  reality  and  in  restoration  much  of 
this  noble  palace  crowning  a  beautiful  hill,  as  striking  as  the 
Acropolis  at  Athens. 

Earthquakes  have  shaken  the  foundations  and  rent  the 
towers,  yet  in  the  Court  of  Lions  still  remain  the  traces  of 
Moorish  elegance  and  splendor,  and  almost  the  original  bril- 
liancy of  coloring.  Not  a  slender  column  has  been  displaced, 
not  an  arch  of  that  light  and  fragile  colonnade  has  given  way, 
and  all  the  fairy  fretwork  of  the  domes,  as  unsubstantial  as  the 


68 


Gibraltar,  Malag:a,  Alhambra 


crystal  fabrics  of  a  morning's  frost,  exist  after  the  lapse  of  cen- 
turies, almost  as  fresh  as  if  from  the  hand  of  the  Moslem  artist, 
for  us  moderns  to  admire  and  to  imitate. 

I  have  lingered  too  long  already  over  this  fascinating  struc- 
ture. Once  the  whole  was  a  dream  of  beauty,  a  delectable 
palace,  as  veritable  a  paradise  as  ever  the  head  of  man  devised 
or  the  heart  of  man  desired. 

The  scenes  of  gayety  have  vanished,  much  of  its  loveliness 
has  departed,  yet  believe  me,  it  will  be  one  of  the  joys  of  your 
life  that  you  have  seen  the  place.  As  you  read  its  legends  and 
live  in  its  romances,  and  study  its  traditions,  it  will  stand  out  as 
one  of  the  most  delightful  and  refining  memories  of  your  life. 


Malaga  from  the  Citadel 


An  Experience  at  Malagfa 
"When  we  arrived  at  Malaga  most  of  us  were  anxious  to 
utilize  the  short  time  we  had  to  stay  there  in  seeing  as  much  as 
possible.  After  wandering  through  the  streets  until  it  was  quite 
dark,  a  clerical  member  of  the  party  I  was  with  suggested  that 
we  try  to  get  into  the  Cathedral,  knowing  little  of  and  caring  less, 
for  the  unwritten  law  that  guards  these  sacred  places  from  the 
heretical  footsteps  of  the  average  American  tourist,  except  dur- 
ing the  regular  hours.  One  of  a  crowd  of  gamins,  who  had 
followed  us  around  and  who  understood  and  spoke  a  little  Eng- 
lish, hearing  our  conversation,  volunteered  to  guide  us  there. 
Off  we  started,  quite  a  large  party.  The  little  fellow  taking  us 
through  some  very  dark  and  narrow  streets,  distrust  was  felt 
by  a  number  of  the  crowd,  and  it  began  to  grow  less,  the 
deserters  making  for  the  wide  and  well-lighted  street,  that  could 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra  69 

be  seen  in  the  distance.  When  we  reached  the  main  entrance 
to  the  Cathedral,  it  was  locked,  but  a  vigorous  knocking  by  our 
little  guide  brought  a  custodian  to  the  door  who,  after  looking  at 
us,  refused  us  admission  and  shut  the  door  in  our  faces.  The  boy 
then  told  us  there  were  other  entrances  and  that  he  would  try 
them  before  giving  up.  Along  more  dark  streets  we  were 
piloted,  the  company  getting  smaller  as  the  road  got  uninviting. 
Soon  another  entrance  v/as  reached  with  the  same  result,  only 
more  so.  "  Come  on,"  said  the  boy,  "  I  will  take  you  to  the  other 
side,"  diving  into  another  dark  alley.  The  party  had  now  dwin- 
dled to  about  half  a  dozen,  among  whom  were  Mr.  Albert  Fox 
and  wife,  of  Washington.  As  the  way  became  more  dismal 
this  gentleman  stopped,  saying :   "  You  can't  get  this  Fox  into 


It 

l/aie  pc 

\\ 

^l^<xc>^\\w 

i  un  ^einicio  ae  cafe  o  /e. 

one  \9ub 

0/  \£oifee  oi  iea. 

that  hole,  I  shall  go  back  ;"  and  so  did  all,  except  the  writer  and 
his  clerical  friend.  We  were  determined  to  see  the  inside  of 
that  church  if  it  were  possible.  Another  door  was  soon  reached 
and  a  summons  to  open  given  this  time  successfully.  We  were 
admitted  into  a  small  chapel  lighted  by  a  lamp  that  only  cast 
dim  and  ghostlike  shadows  all  about  us.  We  were  led  from 
this  place  into  the  nave  of  the  Cathedral  which  was  totally  dark. 
Thoughts  of  the  Inquisition  of  old  came  into  our  minds,  when 
suddenly  there  was  a  flash  and  the  whole  beautiful  interior  was 
bathed  in  light.  Think  of  it,  there  in  Spain,  backward  as  she  is 
in  adopting  most  of  the  improvements  of  the  day,  a  place  of 
worship,  ancient  as  this  building,  lighted  by  electricity.  Rows 
of  white  fluted  columns,  forming  a  beautiful  vista  from  where 
we   stood,  supported  the  roof     Altars  decorated    with  costly 


70 


Gibraltar,  Malaga,  Alhambra 


paintings  and  fine  statuary  were  seen  on  all  sides,  it  was,  indeed, 
like  the  beautiful  "  F"abric  of  a  vision  "  that  broke  upon  us. 
Our  perseverance  was  well  rewarded  by  the  sight.  When  we 
turned  to  leave  the  church  we  found  ourselves  surrounded  by  a 
curious  crowd.  Nuns,  cripples,  children  and  custodians  ;  where 
they  all  came  from  so  quickly  was  marvelous,  with  outstretched 
hands  they  all  united  in  one  cry,  "  Pedir  por  Dios  "  ?  and  we 
thought  it  best  to  contribute  liberally,  as  we  were  a  good  ways 
from  home  and  in  hostile  keeping." — A.  J.  Smith. 


SPECIAL  TRAIN 
Granada  to  Malaga  Direct 


Distances 

(in 

kilometers 

from 

Granada 


STATIONS 


Time=table  of 


Arrivals 


Stoppages  Departures 


9 

15 

25 

;i5 

44 

52 

54 

62 

74 

88 

99 

107 

123 

13() 

143 

155 

163 

175 

181 

193 


GRANADA    

Atarfe 

Pinos 

Illora    . 

Toc<m 

Huetor 

Loja 

San  Francisco 

Riofrio 

Salinas 

Archidona 

La   Pena  

Antequera 

BOBADILLA  (Restaurant) 

Gobantes 

Chorro 

Alora 

Pizarra     

Cartama 

Cpnipanillas 

MALAGA  (at  Station)  .   . 
("  Docks)    . 


6.43  P.  M. 
6.52 

7.  8 
7.22 
7.40 
7.52 

8.  6 
8.23 
8.57 
9.34 
9.50 

10.  2 
10.26 
10.59 
11.12 
11.39 
11.50 
12.  6 
12.18 
12.33 
12.48  A   M 


4  niin. 
10     " 

12    " 

15     " 
10    " 


6.30 
6.43 
6.52 

7.  8 
7.26 
7.40 

8.  2 

8.  6 
8.23 

9.  9 
9.34 
9.50 

10.  2 
10.41 
10.59 
11.22 
11.39 
11.50 
12.  6 
12.18 


P.  M. 


M. 


ALGIERS 

Pennsylvania  Day 


"        ''%.';w^    I  11  ri  I    '  '    II  1  'lit'      .;.• 
,1      T/^'*^,  If  Ml  Mil    r'M'IT^ 


French  Front 


ALGERIA 

Bibliography 

Brandt,  Dr.  G.  H.  Hamman  r'irha,  Algiers.     Health  Resort  and  Winter  Cure. 
London  (H.  K.  Lewis). 

BENNtTT,  J.  H.     Winter  on  Shores  of  Mediterranean,     pp.  441. 

Bridgman,  F.  a.     Winters  in  Algeria.      Illustrated.     N.  Y.  (Harper). 

Cox,  S.  S.     In  Search  for  Winter  Sun.     pp.  118. 

Harris,  G.  W.     Practical  Guide  to  Algiers.     London. 

Knox,  A.  The  New  Playground;  or,  Wanderings  in  Algeria.  London.  A  clearly 
written  book  of  travel. 

Mathew,  W^     Flora  of  Algeria  in  Relation  to  Mediterranean  Region.     London. 

Murray.      Handbook  to  Algeria  and  Tunis.     Maps  and  plates. 

Pool,  S.  Lane.  The  Barbary  Corsairs.  Maps  and  Illustrations.  (Story  of  the 
Nation's  Series.)  N.  Y.  (Putnam.)  Account  of  Moors  who  after  fall  of 
Granada  (1492)  settled  in  Algeria,  Tunis,  Oran  and  other  places  in  North 
Africa  and  their  subsequent  history,  until  they  became  a  "  scourge  of  Christen- 
dom "  ;  their  final  suppression,  etc.) 

People  of  Algiers.     (F.  C.  W.  Basbour.)    Chaut.     vol.  10,  p.  434. 

Scenes  in  Algiers.     (R.  H.  Titherington.)     Munsey.      vol.  7,  p.  165. 


(73) 


74  Algfiiffs:  Pennsylvania  Day 

Algfiers 
"Algiers  has  been  noted  in  history  as  the  land  of  pirates. 
It  is  built  on  an  elevation  of  one  thousand  feet  or  more  sloping 
to  the  sea.  The  pirates  were,  therefore,  favorably  located  to 
see  seaward  and  could  scan  the  water  for  merchantmen  with 
their  trained  eyes  for  perhaps  sixty  or  eighty  miles.  Less  than 
one  hundred  years  ago  Algiers  was  the  terror  of  the  civilized 
world.     Spain,   Holland,   Venice,   Denmark,   Portugal,   Naples, 

all  had  to  buy  peace  from  the  Algerian 
pirates.  The  United  States  in  1795 
bought  peace  for  $72 1,000  and  promised 
an  annual  tribute  of  ;^2 2,000  if  her  ves- 
sels might  go  unmolested.  In  181 2, 
or  thereabouts,  the  Algerian  pirates 
declared  war  on  the  United  States  and 
began  to  capture  vessels  and  to  refuse 
money,  saying  that  American  slaves 
were  beyond  price.  Captains  Decatur 
and  Bainbridge  demanded  and  secured  satisfaction.  In  18 17 
Great  Britain  compelled  the  pirates  to  abolish  Christian  slavery. 
Their  piracy,  however,  was  not  ended  until  they  were  con- 
quered by  the  French.  As  we  landed.  Moors  were  everywhere 
visible  in  their  curious  costumes  and  oriental  appearance,  and 
they  looked  to  our  eyes  capable  of  piracy  of  all  degrees.  It 
does  not  surprise  me  that  Dido  guarded  her  territory  with 
care.  The  old  Numidians  we  believe  needed  watching.  Union 
with  Mneas  would  certainly  have  brought  added  protection 
from  surrounding  thieves  and  desperadoes." — Parke. 

The  Mosques  ;  the  Jardin  des  Plantes,  with 
its  wonderful  variety  of  plants  and  trees  and 
flowers  ;  the  old  Arab  town  on  the  steep  hillside, 
with  its  streets  only  five  or  six  feet  wide  and  so 
crooked  that  no  carriage  can  pass  through  them, 
connected  by  little  alleys  less  than  two  feet  wide, 
the  roofs  leaning  towards  each  other,  sometimes 
leaving  not  more  than  a  foot  for  the  sunlight  to 
enter  ;  the  Governor's  palace  ;  the  French  Cathe- 
dral ;  the  curious  costumes  of  the 
men  and  women  ;  the  Museum  ;  all 
are  interesting  and   attractive  and 


AlgfSers:  Pennsylvania  Day  75 

should  be  seen.      "In  the  Museum  is  shown  the  body  of  an 
Arab  named  Geronimo  who  accepted  Christianity  at  the  age 
of  25  years,  having  been  baptized  as  an  infant.     Being  captured 
four    years   after  his    formal    acceptance    of   Christianity   and 
refusing  to  recant,  while  yet  alive  his  feet  and  hands  were  bound 
with  cords  and  he  was  covered  with  fresh  concrete  which  was 
being  made  into  a  block  for  a  building.     The  block  thus  formed 
was  built  into  an  angle  of  the  wall  of  a  fortress.     The  place 
was    carefully    recorded,  and    in    1853,  300  years  afterward,  it 
was  necessary  to  destroy  the   fort  and  in   the   very  spot  the 
skeleton  was  found  enclosed  in    the 
block.      The  bones  were  interred   in 
the    Cathedral.       Liquid    plaster     of 
Paris  was  run  into  the  cavity  and  a 
model    obtained    showing    the    very 
features  of  the  Christian  martyr  and 
the  marks  of  the  cords  that  bound  him.  ;'^m:imB^K^^^       'm 


I 


A  terrible  glimpse  of  Mos- 
lem persecution  and  Christian 
fortitude." 


"Algiers,  February  19,  1898. 

We  spent  all  day  yesterday  viewing  the  sights  of  Algiers, 
the  sprightly  capital  of  the  French  province  of  Algeria. 

We  cannot  hope  to  find  in  our  pilgrimage  a  more  pictur- 
esque and  attractive  city  than  this  famous  winter  resort  of  the 
Mediterranean.  The  province  of  Algeria  has  now  been  held 
by  France  since  1830,  and  Algiers  is  to  all  intents  and  purposes 
a  French  city — the  streets  all  bearing  French  names,  and  the 
business  of  the  town  being  conducted  by  the  French,  or  under 
their  auspices. 


76 


Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 


Algeria  is  one  of  the  five  Barbary  States,  the  other  four 
being  Morocco,  Tunis,  Tripoli  and  Barca. 

Our  ride  in  the  suburbs  of  the  city  yesterday  carried  us  by 
some  beautiful  white  villas  that  were  formerly  the  homes  of 
the  Pirate  Kings  of  Algiers.  It  is  of  record  that  at  one  time 
as  many  as  twenty  thousand  captive  Christians  were  compelled 
to  work  upon  the  fortifications  of  Algiers  by  their  Moorish  cap- 


tors. It  was  a  happy 
it  came  under  the 
As  one  is  reminded 
power  of  England,  so 
Algiers  of  the  won- 
satility  of  the  French, 
date  people,  and  the 
giers  and  the  Spanish 
was  very  marked, 
dominated  by  the 
a  large   Arab    popu- 


day  for  Algeria  when 
control  of  France, 
at  Gibraltar  of  the 
one  is  reminded  at 
derful  energy  and  ver- 
They  are  an  up-to- 
contrast  between  Al- 
towns  we  have  seen 
Although  the  town  is 
French,  there  is  still 
lation.       I  judge  the 


terms  Arab  and  Moor  are  frequently  used  interchangeably,  and 
I  find  it  difficult  to  draw  the  line  between  them.  The  term 
Moor  originally  belonged  to  the  natives  of  Morocco,  while 
Arabs  are  put  down  as  children  of  the  desert ;  but  they  look 
alike,  dress  alike,  and  are  all  Mohammedans.  We  had  our 
first  glimpse,  at  Algiers,  of  the  Arab  women  who  veil  the  faces 
from  the  eyes  down  when  they  appear  on  the  streets.  I  am 
frank  to  say  that,  so  far  as  the  writer  is  concerned,  they  are  wel- 
come to  continue  to  veil  their  faces,  if  those  we  saw  at  Algiers 
are  representative  of  Arab  women  generally.  The  chief  char- 
acteristic of  Arab  dress,  for  men,  seems  to  be  a  heavy  head- 
covering,  coupled  with  no  covering  at  all  from  the  legs  down, 
and  frequently  no  covering  for  the  feet. 

After  a  visit  and  inspection  of  the  Arab  quarters  of  the 
city,  we  are  prepared  to  endorse  the  statement  that  they  live  like 
dogs.  They  are  said  to  live  largely  on  beans  and  black  bread, 
and  sleep  on  mats  in  the  burnooses  they 
wear  during  the  day.  Their  wraps  are  more 
or  less  elaborate,  some  being  very  scanty  and 
others  many  folded,  but  very  few  showed  any 
approach  to  cleanliness.  I  think  the  lowest 
types  of  humanity  I  have  ever  seen  consisted 


Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 


77 


of  a  group  of  Arabs  who  came  near  the  Aller  for  the  purpose 
of  coaling  an  English  ship  that  lay  very  near  us.  In  addition 
to  being  naturally  dark  in  color,  they  were  also  black  with  dirt. 
Their  clothing  seemed  litde  better  than  gunny-sacks. 

Algiers  is  widely  advertised  as  a  most  desirable  resort  for 
consumptives,  and  I  judge  with  good  reason.  The  weather 
when  we  were  there  (February  i8th)  was  about  like  our  June, 
so  that  when  our  carriage  stopped  in  our  drive  we  found  it 
desirable  to  rest  in  a  shady  place.  Our  eyes  were  delighted 
with  the  sight  of  a  great  variety  of  beautiful  flowers  and  shrub- 
bery, some  vari- 
eties of  which  we 
had  never  seen 
before.  From 
our  observation, 
it  is  now  becom- 
ing quite  the 
thing  for  those 
who  are  spend- 
ing considerable 
time  abroad  to 
spend  the  sum- 
mer at  Paris  or 
some  other  Eu- 
ropean capital  or 
resort,  and  the 
winter  in  Algiers. 

Students  of  history  will  recall  that  under  Moslem  rule 
Algeria  was  continually  at  war  with  Christian  countries.  Our 
own  country  sent  a  fleet  to  punish  the  Algerians  for  depreda- 
tions on  our  commerce,  and  on  June  20,  1815,  a  victory  was 
gained  by  our  fleet,  which  compelled  the  Dey  to  acknowledge 
that  the  American  flag  meant  something.  In  1830,  on  account 
of  the  destruction  of  a  French  ship  and  the  murder  of  a  French 
Consul,  the  French  Government  sent  a  large  naval  and  land 
force  and  captured  the  City  of  Algiers,  and  have  held  the 
country  since  that  time,  in  spite  of  frequent  outbreaks.  It  is 
said  that  the  occupation  of  Algeria  has  cost  the  P'rench  Gov- 
ernment the  lives  of  150,000  men  and  about  $600,000,000  in 
money. 


c4round  the  Garden  of  Plants 


78 


Algiers:   Pennsylvania  Day 


The  Arab  beggars  of  Algiers  are  the  most  persistent  we 
have  met  with.  Their  well-defined  policy  is  to  tire  their  victims 
out.  One  ghostly  old  Arab  woman  marked  me  for  her  prey, 
and  although  she  was  lame  she  kept  right  up  with  the  proces- 
sion until  I  was  compelled  to  buy  her  off.  The  Arab  children 
are  equally  persistent,  though  much  more  attractive  than  their 
elders.  Many  of  them  have  bright,  laughing  faces,  but  are 
born  beggars,  nevertheless." — Archbold. 


Ghosts  And  Alterites 

Sea  Forms  neither  Strange  nor  Curious 
This  is  a  "go  as  you  please"  party,  and,  while  introduc- 
tions are  frequent,  no  one  seems  to  wait  long  for  an  introduc- 
tion, but  proceeds  to  express  his  views  and  ask  for  what  he 
wants  without  much  ceremony.  People  who  a  short  day  or  two 
ago  would  have  given  fortunes  to  be  at  home  are  beginning  to 
look  like  pleasure  seekers  instead  of  invalids.  Still,  smelling- 
salts  and  bottled  electricity  are  prominent,  and  occasionally  one 
looks  over  the  railing  into  deep  water  for  whales.  Some  say 
they  have  enjoyed  every  minute,  while  others  claim  that  there 
are  minutes  that  they  would  as  soon  forget. 

It  is  curious  how  one  makes  friends  on  shipboard,  all  stiff- 
ness vanishes  as  if  by  magic.  Perhaps,  the  unsteadiness  of  the 
vessel  and  the  go-as-you-please  of  the  sea  takes  possession  of 
body  and  mind  and  dissipates  social  restraint.  Whatever  the 
cause  it  is  very  pleasant  to  exchange  views  with  your  neighbor 
on  the  least  provocation  and  without  an  introduction. 


Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 


79 


Pennsylvania  Day 
Introductions  by  Gen'l  Craft 

Ladies  and  gentlemen  of  the  ''Alter  "  cruise;  fellow  citizens  and 
citizenesses  of  Pemisylvania  : 

We  are  gathered  here  this     0cr»«y==<cr^:!^cr=^G==<cr^Q=<(5=^Q:=^c?=><c5^cr^cj=^ 
afternoon  upon  the  high  seas  in     ^ 


convention   assembled,  not   as 
representatives  of  Dave  Mar- 


tin,  Mat.  Quay,   Chris.  Magee  {P 

or  Billy  Flynn  or  of  any  set  of  "^ 

politiciansorany  other  factional  |^ 

interest,  but  as  quiet,  peaceful  \? 

private  citizens  of  a  grand,  live,  \ 

(r 


1 


1ia.mpfer  „ALLER",  den  i8.  Februar  1898 

MITTAGESSEN 

Fleischbriihe  a  la  Douglas 

Weissfisch,  Sauce  a  la  frangaise,  zerl.  Butter 

Rehbraten,  Trilffel-Sauce 

Grenadins,  Blumenkohl 

Vol-au-vent  a  la  Durham 

Capaunenbraten 

Reineclaudes  Endivien-Salat 

Y\%  a  la  napolitaine  Backwerk 

Frucht  Nachtisch 

Caffee 

¥ 

DINNER 

Consotnm^  \  la  Douglas 

White-fish,  sauce  h.  la  frangaise,  melted  butter 

Loin  of  roe-venison,  truffle-sauce 

Grenadins,  cauliflower 

Vol-au-vent  a  la  Durham 

Roast  capon 

Green  gages  Chicory-salad 

Ice-cream  a  la  napolitaine  Pastry 

Fruit  Dessert 

Coffee 


I 


patriotic  and  glorious  common 
wealth,  citizens,  ever  ready  to     |? 
respond  to  the  call  of  our  coun- 
try and  to  the  bugle  of  the  little 
German  band  at  meal  time. 

We  bid  you  all  hearty  wel- 
come to  join  with  us  in  our 
festivities,  and  to  listen  to  a  i^^is 
remarks  from  representative 
Pennsylvanians,  who  will  now 
address  you.  I  have  the  pleas- 
ure of  introducincr  Col.  A.  F. 
Seltzer,  of  Lebanon.  Q>=>^-,^'>''^->^'>^=^>^y=i>>=D>^ 

Mr.  Chairman,  Ladies  and  Gentlemen  : 

There  is  a  belt  of  earth  encircling  the  globe  in  which  the 
highest  type  of  man  is  found,  and  that  is  the  North  Temperate 
zone.  In  the  centre  of  that  zone  is  the  State  of  Pennsylvania, 
and  in  the  centre  of  that  State  is  the  Lebanon  Valley — I  am 
from  the  Lebanon  Valley,  the  garden  spot  of  the  world.  This 
being  "  Pennsylvania  Day  ",  it  is  meet  and  proper  that  Penn- 
sylvanians celebrate  the  day  in  a  becoming  manner.  Our 
State  is  known  as  the  Keystone  .State,  and  properly  so,  being 
the  keystone  of  the  Pederal  arch.  Here  the  tocsin  of  liberty 
was  first  sounded,  and  it  reverberated  throughout  the  world, 
calling  on   men  everywhere  to  throw  off  the   yoke  of  tyranny 


80 


Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 


and  oppression.  Here  the  old  Liberty  Bell  remains  enshrined 
in  the  building  which  gave  birth  to  the  immortal  Declaration  of 
Independence,  and  is  to-day  an  object  of  great  interest  and 
inspiration  to  every  lover  of  freedom. 

Go  with  me  on  a  hurried  tour  through  this  great  State, 
with  its  fine,  fertile  farm  fields  ;  its  majestic  mountains,  "  rock- 
ribbed  and  ancient  as  the  sun  "  and  rich  in  mineral  wealth  ;  its 
picturesque  scenery,  broad  rivers  and  numberless  busy  indus- 
tries, mills,  shops,  factories  and  furnaces,  giving  employment 
to  many  thousands  and  making  glad  the  hearts  of  numerous 
homes. 


A  Street  in  Algiers 

We  will  stop  a  moment  in  Lancaster  County,  which 
adjoins  my  own  county,  an  empire  in  itself,  with  its  tobacco 
industry  aggregating  millions  of  dollars  annually ;  its  large 
farms,  the  best  in  the  world,  of  which  the  very  barns  are 
palaces,  where  peace  and  plenty  greet  one  on  every  hand. 
Take  the  train  and  accompany  me  to  Schuylkill  County,  which 
adjoins  my  county  on  the  north,  and  there  we  find  stored  away 
in  the  bowels  of  its  huge  mountains,  deposits  of  coal  sufficient 
to  warm  the  hearths  and  homes  of  the  whole  world.  Now 
board  the  train  and  speed  along  with  me  to  the  oil  fields  of  the 
northwest,  where  enough  oil  abounds  to  light  up  the  dark 
places  of  earth  and  illumine  our  homes  on  long  winter  evenings 


Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 


81 


for  thousands  of  years  to  come.  We  hurry  onward  to  the 
'Smoky  City" — Pittsburg — where  natural  gas  is  the  illumi- 
nant,  Hghting  up  the  city  and  furnishing  power  for  its  mills  and 
manufacturing  establishments.  Now  come  with  me  on  my 
homeward  journey,  rolling  across  the  Alleghenies,  "  high  up 
among  the  sons  of  frosty  thunder",  where  we  behold  some  of 
the  most  magnificent  scenery  in  the  world  as  we  speed  along 
our  course  on  the  foremost  railroad  in  the  United  States.  We 
at  last  reach  dear  old  Lebanon  County,  my  home.  Here  we 
find  mountains  that  are  almost  solid  masses  of  iron  ore  of  the 
best  quality,  around  which  spiralizes  a  railroad.  The  ore  is 
loaded  into  cars  and  carried  to  furnaces,  where  it  is  transformed 


*'  c4ll  days  {and  these)  belong  to  Netv  York  " 

into  all  kinds  of  iron,  giving  employment  to  thousands  of  work- 
men, who  live  in  comfortable  cottages,  the  doors  and  windows 
of  which  are  festooned  with  vines  and  Bowers,  kissed  by  the 
sunlight  of  heaven.  The  children  of  these  workmen  attend  the 
schools  week-days  and  receive  a  liberal  education,  while  on 
Sundays  they  go  to  .Sunday  school  and  church  and  are  taught 
the  way  that  leads  to  a  better  life. 

In  this  age  of  the  world  we  manufacture  iron  into  almost 
everything,  from  the  great  revolving  wheels  of  the  Corliss 
engine,  which  gave  life  and  motion  to  the  vast  machinery  in 
Machinery  Hall  at  our  great  Centennial  in  Philadelphia  in 
1876,  down  to  the  little  main  spring  in  the  watch  that  ticks  off 


82  Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 

the  golden  moments  as  they  drop  from  time  into  eternity  ;  and 
from  the  locomotive  engine,  careering  through  our  great  and 
glorious  country,  knitted  with  bands  of  iron,  down  to  the 
minutest  needle  in  the  sewing  machine,  that  eases  the  labor  of 
some  poor  sewing  girl. 

In  educational  matters,  Pennsylvania  stands  foremost,  for 
here  the  common  school  system  was  first  established.  Gover- 
nor Wolf,  Thaddeus  Stevens,  the  great  Commoner,  and  other 
Pennsylvanians,  laid  the  foundation  of  a  school  system  that  has 
become  universal  in  our  country,  so  that  now  every  child  in  it 
has  the  privilege  of  obtaining  a  thorough  education. 

The  throbbing  of  the  machinery  and  the  puffing  of  the 
engines  of  our  magnificent  steamship,  as  we  ride  gracefully  and 
easily  on  the  billows  of  this  great  sea,  permitting  us  to  travel 
in  comfort  as  we  journey  towards  the  land  of  the  Nile,  reminds 
me  of  the  fact  that  the  first  man  who  invented  the  steamboat, 
thereby  making  it  possible  for  us  to  enjoy  this  luxury,  was 
Robert  Fulton,  a  Pennsylvanian,  who  deserves  and  receives  the 
thanks  of  every  traveler  on  the  ocean. 

Among  the  Generals  who  won  renown  on  the  field  of  battle 
are  the  superb  Hancock  ;  Meade,  the  hero  of  Gettysburg ; 
Reynolds,  who  mingled  his  blood  with  others,  and  gave  Gettys- 
burg a  name  far  greater  than  that  of  Waterloo  ;  and  many  more^ 
all  Pennsylvanians. 

But  why  continue  longer  ?  In  peace  and  in  war  ;  on  land 
and  on  sea  ;  in  the  arts  and  in  the  sciences  ;  in  scholarship  and 
in  statecraft ;  in  law,  medicine  and  theology  ;  in  mechanics,  in- 
ventions and  agriculture,  in  superb  manhood  and  womanhood, 
Pennsylvanians  have  their  names  inscribed  high  up  on  the  honor 
roll  of  the  world. 

In  the  sisterhood  of  States  comprising  this  Union — the 
best,  greatest,  most  powerful  nation  in  the  world — Pennsylvania 
stands  pre-eminent. 

Kings  wear  crowns,  despots  sway  sceptres,  millionaires 
revel  in  wealth,  but  only  those  who  were  born  as  freemen  under 
the  Stars  and  Stripes  and  have  imbibed  the  principles  of  Virtue, 
Liberty  and  Independence,  can  hold  up  their  heads  wherever 
they  may  be  and  say  :   "  I  am  an  American  !" 

It  affords  me  unbounded  gratification,  and  my  heart  pulses 
with  pride,  ladies  and  gentlemen,  as  I  stand  before  you  and  am 
privileged  to  declare  that  we,  all  of  us,  are  children  of  this  great 
Republic. 


Algfiers:  Pennsylvania   Day 


83 


Typical  *'  Kee-sto-dnn  "  Naii'ves 

These  facts  were  also  circulated  on  a  type-written  sheet  on 
Pennsylvania  Day  ; 

Philadelphia,  the  chief  city  of  Pennsylvania,  the  "  city  of 
homes,"  is  a  manufacturing  and  commercial  community  of 
nearly  2,000,000  inhabitants,  located  on  the  river  Delaware,  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  ocean,  having  nearly  forty  miles  of 
wharfage  for  berth  of  the  largest  and  deepest  vessels.  Out  of 
250,000  buildings  of  all  kinds,  nearly  200,000  are  homes,  to 
which  9000  are  added  annually.  Four  hundred  and  forty-five 
public  schools  are  maintained.  The  City  Hall,  costing  $16,- 
000,000,  is  the  largest  municipal  building  in  the  world,  Fair- 
mount  Park  is  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  in  America,  3000 
acres.  Philadelphia's  Bourse  cost  5^2,000,000.  The  city  has  the 
smallest  death  rate,  largest  average  family,  best  market  terri- 
tory and  system,  most  historic  places,  and  largest  terminal 
railroad  stations  in  the  world.  There  are  600  churches  of  all 
denominations.  She  leads  the  continent  in  dental,  medical  and 
pharmaceutical  education,  industrial  art  and  the  manufacture  of 
ships,  locomotives,  woolens  and  carpets.  The  tax  rate  is  low, 
here  also  are  the  cheapest  water,  living  and  rent.  A  belt  line 
joins  the  railroad  system  of  the  whole  country.  There  is  an 
abundant  supply  of  skilled  and  unskilled  labor  and  the 
cheapest  and  best  fuels. 

Philadelphia  made  the  first  American  Hag,  239  Arch  Street. 
Struck  the  first  American  coin,  29  North  Seventh  Street. 


84  Alg;iers:   Pennsylvania  Day 

Had  the  first  organized  volunteer  fire  company  ;  the  first 
law  school ;  made  the  first  American  piano,  and  the  first  type- 
foundry  in  America  still  flourishes  here. 

Franklin  gave  America  its  first  public  library  here  and 
carried  on  his  electrical  experiments  and  put  the  first  lightning- 
rod  on  his  house  at  the  southeast  corner  of  Second  and  Race. 

The  first  American  paper  mill  was  on  Wissahickon  Creek 
and  we  seem  to  have  had  a  steamboat  in  service  seventeen  years 
before  Fulton's. 

Philadelphia  had  the  first  American  bank,  and  the  Bank  of 
England  was  built  on  the  experience  of  an  American  institution. 

Philadelphia  sent  the  first  American  Arctic  expedition. 

Philadelphia  has  the  largest  families  of  any  great  city  ;  the 
most  individual  dwelling-houses.  The  biggest  Zoological  Gar- 
den in  the  country. 

The  finest  and  most  centrally  located  railroad  stations  in 
the  world  ;  makes  one-tenth  of  America's  manufactured  products. 
Has  the  largest  American  retail  store — in  acres  and  trade. 
Nearly  eighteen  acres  in  this  store  alone  ;  six  acres  of  ware- 
houses besides.  Over  five  thousand  (5000)  employees  at  the 
busiest  time  of  the  year. 

Fifty  places  of  great  interest  are  to  be  visited  in  Philadel- 
phia ;  but,  if  time  presses,  see  these,  at  least : 

Independence  Hall,  now  restored.  Carpenter's  Hall. 
Old  Christ  Church,  where  Washington  and  Lafayette  worshiped. 
The  VV^anamaker  Store.  The  Mint,  next  door,  and  City  Hall. 
City  Hall  tower  is  547  ft.  3 1/^  in.  high — the  loftiest  structure  in  the 
world,  except  Washington  Monument,  which  is  less  than  three 
feet  higher.  Nearly  twice  as  high  as  the  Capitol  dome  at  Wash- 
ington ;  67  feet  higher  than  the  great  Pyramid,  and  99  ft.  higher 
than  St.  Peter's,  at  Rome.  Contains  a  clock  with  four  faces, 
each  20  ft.  in  diameter.  A  2,7  ft-  statue  of  William  Penn  sur- 
mounts the  tower.  He  wears  a  hat  23  ft.  in  circumference,  his 
nose  is  13  inches  long,  his  mouth  14  inches  wide,  his  hair  4 
ft.  long  ;  his  arms  are  12  ft.  6  in.  long,  his  cuffs  on  his  coat  are 
3  ft.  long,  his  fingers  are  2  ft.  6  in.  long,  his  feet  are  22  in.  wide 
and  5  ft.  4  in.  long. 


Alg:iers:  Pennsylvania  Day  85 

Address  by   Major  Reinhold 

Mr.  Chairman  and  Fellow- Pennsyhanians  of  the  ''Aller"  cruise: 

Literally  and  metaphorically  I  am  all  at  sea.  I  am  in  this 
conspicuous  predicament  only  because,  like  an  obedient  son 
of  the  Keystone  State,  I  respond  when  called  by  those  for  the 
time  being  in  authority,  though  I  confess  that  I  am  not  a  sufifi- 
ciendy  good  guesser  to  find  a  reason  why  I  should  be  called  to 
fill  a  place  where  eloquence  and  wit  are  not  only  demanded  but 
are  conspicuously  present. 

If  you,  Mr.  Chairman,  looked  for  the  typical  "Pennsylvania 
Dutchman",  I  must  insist  that  I  am  not  the  best  specimen  of  the 
genus  that  the  Aller  carries  on  the  bosom  of  this  blue  sea ; 
my  "  Dutch  "  lacks  the  guileless  sweetness  and  original  flavor 
of  others  on  whom  you  might  with  much  propriety  have  called. 
There  is,  for  instance,  the  gentleman  who  asked  me  at  the  early 
dawn  of  that  matchless  morning  when  we  entered  the  harbor  of 
Algiers  :  "  Mr.  Reinhold,  ware  is  dis  ?  Some  say  it  is  Alcheers 
and  oders  say  it  is  Afreecay."  While  his  geography  may  be  a 
trifle  off  the  perpendicular  his  Dutch  would  not  for  a  moment 
be  questioned. 

However  the  wisdom  of  your  choice  may  be  questioned,  I 
will  not  waver  in  loyalty  to  the  dear  old  top  of  the  arch  ;  her 
historic  renown  and  material  greatness  have  already  been  empha- 
sized in  eloquent  phrase  by  Col.  Seltzer,  but  even  he  did  not 
rise  to  the  level  of  the  truth.  He  told  you  that  in  the  garden- 
spot  where  he  hails  from  land  is  worth  two  hundred  dollars  an 
acre  ;  why,  in  the  great  county  of  Schuylkill,  where  we  dig  the 
black  diamonds  out  of  the  hills  land  is  worth  fifty  thousand 
dollars  an  acre,  and  you  will  find  none  for  sale.  Our  hills  are 
full  of  coal  ;  our  wells  bubble  oil ;  our  valleys  smile  with  wheat, 
and  our  mountains  distil  health.  Pennsylvania  has  the  one 
pre-eminently  historic  battlefield  of  f)ur  great  war,  and  on  her 
soil  was  fought,  one  hundred  and  twenty  years  ago.  the  only 
battle  that  is  still  going  on, — the  Batde  of  Brandywine.  Pray 
for  final  victory  and  keep  your  eye  on   Pennsylvania. 

We  are  a  cosmopolitan  State  ;  in  addition  to  the  already- 
mentioned  Pennsylvania  Dutchman,  we  have  the  witty  Irishman 
to  assist  in  running  the  politics,  the  Scotch-Irish  of  the  Cumber- 
land Valley  to  furnish  a  bit  of  philosophy  ;  the  Moravians  from 


86 


Algiers:  Pennsylvania  Day 


cMorc  Pennsyl'vanians.     "There  are  others' 


Bohemia  and  the  English  Quaker  that  have  made  us  great  as  a 
peaceable  and  moral  people.  All  these  and  many  more  are 
with  us  and  it  is  not  an  unusual  thing  to  hear  six  languages  in 
walking  as  many  blocks  in  some  of  our  Pennsylvania  towns.  I 
recall  a  Welshman  in  my  town  who  claims  that  Welsh  was  the 
original  tongue  of  the  garden,  and  that  Adam's  name  was 
Adam  Jones. 

We  are  a  State  of  big  things — big  rivers,  high  mountains, 
large  cities,  and  this  is  the  day  we  brag  about  them.  Even  in 
our  polidcs  we  have  a  "  Boss"  in  Pennsylvania,  by  whose  side 
all  the  bosses,  big  and  little,  of  other  States  are  but  bosslets. 

But  as  I  have  nothing  to  say  I  must  cease  saying  it.  When 
I  asked  our  patient  chairman  what  he  wished  me  specially  to 
talk  about  he  said,  "Nothing  in  particular,  tell  them  some 
jokes."     Now,  this  is  the  reason  I  did  not  comply  : — 

I'm  a  wretched  and  sea-sick  man, 

Who  is  found  in  a  nervous  plight, 
My  mind  is  devised  on  a  plan 

That  I  can  hardly  concede  to  be  right  ; 
For  I'm  full,  I'm  sorry  to  state. 

Of  jokes  that  I  think  of  too  late. 


MALTA 
Washington's  Birthday 


MALTA 

BibIiog:raphy 
Ballou.    Story  of  Malta. 

Seddall,  Rev.  H.     Malta,  Past  and  Present.      London. 
Knight  of  St.  John.     (Siege  of  Malta  in  1565.)     Anna  Maria  Porter. 
A  Trip  to  Malta  and  Back.     Living  Age.    Vol.  210,  p.  813. 
Island  of  Malta,     f".  C.  Session.     Magazine.     West  History.     Vol.   13,  p.  199. 


A  Lecture  delivered  on  shipboard 

The  Island  of  Malta,  though  appearing  on  the  map  of  the 
world  as  a  mere  speck,  is  nevertheless  a  pivotal  location  about 
which  vast  interests  revolve.  Her  loyal  inhabitants  call  it  "the 
flower  of  the  world",  and  others  speak  of  it  as  "  the  Queen  of 
the  Mediterranean". 

Really  this  shadeless  island  in  the  middle  of  the  sea  is  the 
strongest  link  in  the  chain  which  connects  Great  Britain  with  her 
possessions  in  the  east.  Look  at  its  surroundings.  Westward 
a  thousand  miles,  guarding  the  entrance,  are  the  Straits  of 
Gibraltar  with  their  mighty  fortress  ;  to  the  north  is  the  ^gean 
Sea  with  either  shore  full  of  historic  interest.  Think  of  Athens 
where  Socrates,  Plato,  Aristotle,  Demosthenes,  Herodotus  and 
Xenophon  "  wrote  or  chiseled  or  taught  or  thundered  or  sung", 
and  where  a  Paul,  greater  than  they,  preached  with  most  won- 
drous power  on  Mars'  Hill.  And  just  across  that  sea  is  the 
sacred  ground  of  the  seven  churches  of  Asia,  and  a  little  farther 
to  the  north  you  reach  Constantinople  and  the  Black  Sea,  while 
to  our  left  and  not  far  distant  is  the  "  Land''  made  sacred  by 
the  feet  of  the  Prince  of  Peace,  and  beyond  that  the  Euphrates 
and  then  farther  east  and  nearer  still  as  we  look  southward  is 
the  "  Land  of  the  Pharaohs". 

Commanding,  therefore,  is 
this  little  island  which  measures 
only  17  miles  in  length  with  a 
breadth  of  9  miles  and  an  area 
of  about  115  square  miles.  I 
am  thus  reminded  of  what  the 
Californian  said,  "  God  made 
the  United  States  of  America, 
took  especial  pains  with  Cali- 
fornia and  threw  into  Arizona 
what  he  had  left."  But  when 
knowing  of  the  rich  mines  of 


ORDER  FOR  THE  DAY 
Tuesday,  February  22nd,  Malta 

Arrive  8  a.  m. ,  leave  3  p.  m.  Meals  on 
board  at  regular  hours.  30  boats  with  white 
flags  with  red  cross  are  at  disposal  of  passen- 
gers, also  10  guides. 

Land  after  breakfast  in  small  boats  and 
walk  up  to  the  cathedral,  fortifications,  etc. , 
(carriages  are  not  necessary  ;  usual  price  is  3 
shillings  (72  cents)  per  hour). 

Notice.  8.45  p.  m.  Washington's  birth- 
day celebration  in  forward  saloon  :  programme 
follows,  and  will  be  posted  in  the  starboard 
gangway,  under  the  lee  coal  scuppers. 

The  lecture  on  Ephesus  by  Rev.  Dr.  Hoge 
is  deferred  to  Wednesday,  8.45  p.  m. 

F.   C.  Clark. 


90  Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 

Arizona  we  may  say,  "  not  so  poor  after  all."  And  so  also 
Malta,  like  a  solitaire  set.  in  a  crown  of  gold,  the  God  of  nations 
has  placed  within  this  fair  sea  whose  coast  lines  are  beautiful 
with  both  nature  and  art. 

Over  these  waters  too,  cruisers  have  for  centuries  made 
their  way  ;  some  with  good  intent,  but  others  with  evil.  It  has 
been  and  is  yet  a  highway  of  nations,  and  Malta  itself  is  known 
to  have  been  the  vassal  of  ten  different  nationalities.  As  to 
the  character  of  these  various  dynasties  one  can  only  conjecture, 
because  there  are  no  records  extant  by  which  to  certainly  deter- 
mine. A  few  half  ruined  monuments,  a  series  of  rock  tombs, 
the  debris  of  mouldering  temples  or  a  nearly  obliterated  under- 
ground city  "  rich  with  the  spoils  of  time  "  furnish  data  or  facts 
for  significant  suggestion,  as  to  the  centuries  of  time  and  the 
character  of  the  people.  It  is  well  understood,  however, 
that  the  Maltese  constitute  a  race  by  themselves  and  that  they 
maintain  a  racial  pride.  Their  origin  is  mixed  and  their  language 
Arabic  and  Italian. 

As  far  back  as  three  thousand  years  ago  they  occupied  an 
important  place  in  the  records  of  history,  during  which  period 
the  island  has  ever  been  associated  with  heroic  names  and 
startling  events,  playing  a  prominent  and  even  tragical  part  in 
the  drama  of  the  past.  Therefore,  like  one  sitting  down  to  a 
banquet  with  the  choicest  viands  before  him  and  he  at  a  loss 
where  to  begin  to  appease  his  craving  appetite,  so  I  find  myself 
hesitating  as  to  what  to  select. 

With  this  grem  of  the  sea  there  are  asso- 
ciated  somewhat  of  fable  and  more  of  romance, 
I  therefore  fear  the  danger  of  overdrawing  the 
picture,  lest    I  make  you  think  that  Malta  is 
about  the  only  place  in  the  world,  a 
kind  of  heavenly  resort,  and,  as   a 
result,  have    some   of  our   goodly 
company     unduly    impressed,    not 
caring  to  go   any  farther   on    this 
pilgrimage,  like  the  woman  whose 
minister,  at  one  time  having  had  a 
pastorate  in  Jamestown,  New 
York,  was  ever,  to  the  dis- 
pleasure of  his  people,  telling 


matu 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday  91 

them  how  they  did  things  there.  This  mother  in  Israel  thought 
she  would  give  the  minister  a  gentle  hint,  and  did  it  after  this 
fashion  when  relating  her  Christian  experience  at  a  prayer 
meeting  :  "  The  Lord  has  been  very  good  to  me,  though  I  have 
had  some  very  sore  trials.  He  has  ever  been  my  helper,  and  my 
joys  have  been  greater  than  my  sorrows,  and  I  hope  some  time 
to  reach  heaven  ;  anyhow,  I  hope  to  get  as  far  as  Jamestown." 

From  its  position  and,  also,  from  the  enormous  strength  of 
its  fortifications,  Malta  is  a  possession  of  great  value  to  any 
commercial  nation,  and  its  main  harbor  is  considered  one  of 
the  best  in  all  the  world. 

As  we  approach  we  will  find  a  group  of  islands  consisting 
of  Malta  and  Gozo,  and  between  them  the  small  island  of 
Comino,  and  off  from  this  last  the  still  smaller  islet  of  Cominetto 
lifts  its  rocky  crest,  while  elsewhere  around  the  shores  a  few 
rocks  deck  the  sea,  each  sustaining  a  few  fishermen  and  afford- 
ing herbage  for  goats  on  their  moss-grown  summits,  and  among 
these  is  Filfola  with  a  venerable  church,  b'ungus  rock  also 
may  be  seen  where  grow  the  far-famed  "fungi  melitenses." 

The  whole  group  forms  a  compact  little  realm  celebrated 
in  history,  with  Valletta  as  the  magnificent  capital. 

In  physical  formation  this  group  is  comparatively  low.  Its 
highest  point  is  not  more  than  590  feet  above  the  sea  level  ; 
and  so  thin  was  the  original  soil,  being  only  a  rocky  surface, 
that  earth  was  transported  from  neighboring  Sicily,  thereby 
making  the  island  ordinarily  productive,  though  once  known  as 
"  a  treeless  island." 

You  will  find  there  the  aloe,  orange  and  olive  ;  also  grapes, 
melons,  figs,  peaches,  apples  and  pears. 

Though  not  equal  to  the  Island  of  Rhodes,  which,  under 
the  Knights  of  St.  John,  became  a  very  flower  garden,  still 
flowers  bloom  in  Malta,  and  it  is  famed  for  its  beautiful  roses. 
The  earliest  inhabitants,  so  far  as  known,  were  Phoenicians 
(1400  B.  C),  from  whom  we  have  several  important  inscrip- 
tions, which  speak  of  them  and  their  temples.  Several  curious 
images,  believed  to  belong  to  their  worship,  and  many  speci- 
mens of  their  pottery  and  glass,  chiefly  found  in  tombs,  have 
been  discovered  ;  also  sepulchral  caves  and  clusters  of  rock- 
hewn  tombs,  among  them  the  catacombs  of  the  Mamelukes. 


92  Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 

The  most  remarkable  remains  are  three  rough  stone  erec- 
tions— one  in  Gozo,  the  other  two  in  Malta,  about  two  and 
one-half  miles  distant  from  each  other — which  mainly  con- 
sist of  several  arched  chambers  side  by  side,  the  walls  of  which 
are  built  of  enormous  horizontal  and  upright  stones. 

Their  history,  if  read  at  all,  must  be  read  in  stone,  and 
from  the  best  intelligence  they  are  thought  to  be  Phoenician 
temples.  But  though  Malta's  complete  history  we  have  not 
time  to  trace,  it  is  well  to  know  that  it  has  been  for  these 
many  years  a  pivotal  location,  about  which  great  interests 
revolve,  and  since  the  treaty  of  Paris  in  1814  has  been  num- 
bered among  the  British  possessions. 

In  our  hasty  glance  at  important  events,  it  is  well  to  note 
that    here   was  born   Hannibal,   the    celebrated    Carthagenian 

general  ;  also  Menander. 
the  celebrated  orator. 
Here,  too,  were  born 
Aulus  Licinius,  whom 
Cicero  styled  the  Aristotle 
of  Malta,  and  lodotus,  the 
philosopher  and  intimate 
friend  of  Cicero.  Thus  we 
On  the  -way  lo  citia  Vecchia  dlscover  that  "  the  sons  of 

Malta  "  were  representative  men  of  Rome  nearly  2000  years 
ago.  We  will  want  to  visit  the  fortifications  surrounding 
Valletta,  where  may  be  had  a  commanding  view  of  land  and  sea, 
having  in  sight  the  two  celebrated  harbors  of  Valletta,  with 
their  numerous  ships  and  stately  warehouses  ;  also  the  broad 
sea  stretching  far  away  to  the  horizon.  Then  looking  inland, 
we  will  see  an  undulating  country,  which  is  sparsely  settled, 
with  here  and  there  a  small  village  dominated  by  its  quaint 
stone  church.  To  the  westward  seven  and  one-half  miles,  upon 
a  prominent  elevation,  Citta  Vecchia  breaks  the  horizon  (called 
the  Old  City,  to  distinguish  it  from  Valletta,  the  modern  capital). 
It  was  founded  many  centuries  before  the  Christian  era, 
probably  1804  B.  C.  At  the  entrance  is  a  time-worn,  battered 
statue  of  Juno,  which  dates  back  to  the  Roman  period  of  pos- 
session, and  just  within  the  walls  are  the  remains  of  a  temple 
dedicated  to  Apollo,  and  near  by  a  cathedral,  ancient  with  its 
mouldering  monasteries,  which  is  said  to  be  built  upon  the  site 


i 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday  93 

of  the  house  where  dwelt  PubHus,  the  Roman  Governor  of  the 
island  at  the  time  of  St.  Paul's  shipwreck  ;  one  who,  if  tradition 
may  be  believed,  was  his  ardent  friend  and  a  follower  of  the 
Christ.  The  whole  forms  a  delightful  picture  to  hang  in  the 
gallery  of  one's  memory.  Bible  students  are  specially  inter- 
ested, because  here  St.  Paul,  when  a  prisoner  on  his  way  to 
Rome  to  plead  his  case  before  the  Emperor  Nero,  though  the 
ship  was  wrecked  in  this  rocky  bay,  which  still  bears  his  name, 
with  all  on  board,  was  brought  safe  to  land. 

We  will  also  want  to  see  the  Tower  of  St.  Paul  which  com- 
mands the  shore.  It  is  a  square  stone  structure  dated  F"ebruary 
lo,  1610,  which  date  is  supposed  to  indicate  the  day  of  the 
anniversary  of  the  shipwreck.  Near  the  tower  is  a  chapel  in 
which  are  some  paintings  and  frescoes  which  depict  in  a  crude 
manner  the  scenes  of  the  catastrophe.  And  not  far  away  is  the 
grotto  of  St.  Paul,  over  which  an  unpretentious  chapel  has  been 
built  and  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  St.  Paul,  the  Apostle,  to 
the  Gentiles  and  by  whom  Christianity  made  its  advent  to 
Malta. 

In  the  midst  of  the  grotto  is  a  statue  of  St.  Paul  and  you 
will  be  told  doubtless  that  the  stone  is  remarkable  for  its 
efificacy  in  the  case  of  fever  and  of  the  poisonous  bite  of  a 
serpent. 

All  in  all  the  impress  of  Paul's  life  still  remains  there  and 
the  evidence  of  the  truth  of  the  scriptures  in  relation  thereto 
stands  unquestioned.  But  to  the  Sir  Knights,  Malta  is  of  very 
special  interest.  It  was  occupied  from  1550  A.  D.  to  1798  by 
the  Knights  Hospitallers,  then  called  Knights  of  Malta. 

This  hour  would  then  be  quite  incomplete  if  nothing  were 
said  of  the  famous  order,  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  who  left 
upon  the  island  more  of  the  personal  than  all  other  sovereignties 
that  preceded  or  have  succeeded  them,  and  who  played  such  an 
important  and  tragical  part  in  the  great  drama  of  the  two  and 
three-quarter  centuries  of  their  possession.  Humble  though  in 
origin,  but  noble  in  purpose  and  founded  on  Christian  princi- 
ples, their  motto  being,  "  Inasmuch  as  ye  have  done  it  unto  one 
of  the  least  of  these,  my  brethren,  ye  have  done  it  unto  me",  the 
organization  challenged  at  the  beginning  the  just  admiration  of 
many  sincere  and  devout  people  who  gladly  joined  in  advancing 
its  estimable  object ;  and   thus   it  grew,  though  at  first  slowly. 


94  Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 

until  finally  it  became  a  great  power  throughout  the  civilized 
nations,  exercising  in  its  day  a  great  religious  and  political 
influence.  The  Grand  Masters  of  the  order  took  position 
among  the  highest  potentates  of  the  age,  and  were  given  the 
post  of  honor  next  to  that  of  royalty  itself  at  all  assemblies  of 
state,  to  which  they  were  called,  being  celebrated  for  their  energy, 
heroic  bravery  and  spirit  of  enterprise. 

Little  did  Peter  Gerard,  the  accredited  founder  at  Jerusalem, 
when  calling  a  few  friends  together  in  his  own  humble  dwelling 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  tenth  century,  realize  that  he  was  then 
and  there  founding  an  order  whose  power  should  presently 
become  so  great  and  which  indeed  was  the  cradle  of  the 
afterward  famous  order  of  the  Knights  of  Malta. 

Baldwin,  King  of  Jerusalem,  was  so  pleased  with  their 
mission  and  excited  by  their  courage  that  he  assigned  them 
and  their  companions  a  place  of  retreat  in  a  Christian  Church, 
called  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Temple,  and  thereby  this  body  of 
brave  men  were  termed  chevaliers  of  the  temple.  The  history  of 
these  knights  of  the  temple  recites  most  daring  deeds.  But  there 
is  not  time  to  recount  the  thrilling  story  of  their  deeds  of  cour- 
age, or  how  they  were  driven  out  of  Jerusalem  ;  neither  to  tell  of 
the  imprisonment  of  Peter  the  Hermit  which  resulted  in  the  Cru- 
sades, nor  how  through  the  exigencies  of  the  situation  the 
organization  gradually  developed  into  a  complete  military 
order,  known  in  history  as  the  Knights  of  St.  John  whose  first 
military  duty  was  that  of  escorting  pilgrims  to  and  from  the 
coast,  while  guarding  them  from  the  frequently  fatal  violence  of 
the  natives.  Later,  as  the  Knights  became  more  and  more  war- 
like, their  banner  of  the  white  cross  floated  victoriously  over  many 
a  field  of  battle  as  they  attempted  to  regain  the  Holy  Land. 
From  Jerusalem  the  order  removed  to  Acre,  in  Syria,  in  1187, 
where  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion  established  headquarters  for  them, 
and  where  they  dwelt  for  more  than  one  hundred  years,  finally 
overpowered  by  the  Turks  in  a  terrific  and  decisive  battle,  they 
were  expelled  from  Acre  and  took  refuge  in  Cyprus  and  thence 
to  Rhodes  which  they  made  to  blossom  like  the  rose.  There  they 
made  a  defence  which  was  most  remarkable  because  of  the 
powers  against  them.  Of  this  defence  Charles  V.  of  Germany 
exclaimed,  "  There  has  been  nothing  so  well  lost  in  the  world 
as   Rhodes."     There  they  had  temporary  quarters   for  six  or 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 


95 


seven  years.  Finally,  when  Charles  V.  secured  possession  of 
Malta  he  gave  it  to  this  famous  order,  who  held  it  from  1550  to 
1 798.  The  famous  old  palace  of  the  Sir  Knights  is  now  occu- 
pied as  the  town  residence  of  the  English  government  and  com- 
mander-in-chief of  the  forces.  It  has  an  unbroken  front  of  300 
feet  on  St.  George  Square.  The  upper  portion  of  the  tower, 
once  an  observatory,  is  now  used  as  a  marine  telegraph  station 
whence  all  arrivals  are  signaled  as  soon  as  the  ships'  flags  can 
be  determined.  The  view  from  this  tower  was  the  occasion  of 
Lamartine's  words  :  "  From  this  tower  of  the  old  palace  Valletta 
is  seen  in  all  its  original  beauty,  appearing  as  if  cut  out  of  a 
single  piece  of  living  rock.     The  fort,  St.  Elmo,  is  also  of  more 


H 

1 

1"    "'^ifc^ ..^ 

i'^T"" 

BM.^ 

cMalta  Harbor 


than  tragical  interest.  It  is  the  most  perfect  and  impregnable 
of  all  the  fortified  points  of  the  Maltese  capital.  Valletta  was 
founded  in  1566,  A.  D.,  by  Jean  De  La  Valletta,  the  forty- 
fourth  Grand  Master  of  the  Knights  of  St.  John,  whose  statue 
and  also  that  of  L.  Isle  D'  Adam,  who  manifested  marked 
bravery  at  Rhodes,  are  to  be  seen  over  the  Porte  Reale. 
Grand  Master  Valletta  proposed  "  Umilissimi",  meaning  "the 
humblest",  as  the  name  for  the  new  capital,  but  succeeding 
knights  thought  otherwise  and  in  his  honor  called  it  Valletta. 
There  are  few  more  heroic  pages  in  history  than  those  which 
record  the  gallant  defence  of  St.  Elmo  in  the  famous  siege  of 
1565  A.  D.,  by  a  few  surviving  brave  knights  at  the  time  of 
their  captivity  by  the  Turks,  when  they  (many  of  them  already 
wounded)  in  the  spirit  of  real  knighthood  came  out  of  their 
little  chapel,  having  first  embraced  each  other,  and  went  forth 
upon  the  ramparts  to  die.  The  walls  of  St.  Elmo  were  already 
honeycombed  by  the  shot  of  the  enemy,  but  the  idea  of  surren- 
dering was  not  thought  of  by  them. 


96  Malta  :  Washington's  Birthday 

The  Grand  Master  demanded  of  them,  if  necessary,  to  die, 
sword  in  hand,  fighting  the  infidel  Turic  to  the  last,  which  they 
gallantly  obeyed.  The  Turks  captured  the  fort,  but  not  without 
going  over  the  dead  bodies  of  the  Sir  Knights.  But  the  story 
is  too  long  to  follow  in  detail.  Finally,  in  1798,  Malta  was  sur- 
rendered to  the  French  and  the  order  broken  and  scattered. 
Napoleon  Bonaparte  received  the  surrender  on  board  a  French 
frigate.  But  the  spirit  of  true  knighthood  still  lives,  and  will  live, 
for  its  principles  are  divine,  therefore,  all  hail  the  spirit  of  true 
knighthood  wherever  found  !  The  Cathedral  of  St.  John  is 
another  noted  place,  having  been  built  by  the  order  in  1576 
A.  D.,  and  at  great  cost. 

The  beautiful  mosaic  pavement  is  a  study  in  itself,  and  the 
armorial  shields  of  the  400  knights  who  are  buried  in  the  vaults 
of  the  church  suggesc  the  continual  clash  of  battle  in  the  six- 
teenth century.  It  is  the  Westminster  Abbey  of  the  order. 
The  rail  in  front  of  the  altar  is  solid  silver.  The  keys  of  the 
palaces  of  Jerusalem,  Acre  and  Rhodes  esteemed  of  almost 
priceless  value  as  memorials,  are  said  to  be  deposited  beneath 
the  high  altar. 

The  paintings,  statues,  and  all  the  apportionments  of  the 
church  are  superbly  grand  and  rich.  The  tapestries  are  known 
to  have  cost  originally  ^30,000,  and  came  from  a  famous  manu- 
factory in  Brussels,  at  whose  looms  even  Rubens  did  not  disdain 
to  work.  On  the  way  to  Malta  the  tapestries  were  captured  by  a 
Moorish  Corsair,  and  then  later  ransomed  by  the  payment  of 
their  full  value  in  gold,  so  that  the  final  cost  was  $60,000. 

As  you  step  on  shore  and  wander  through  the  city  and 
about  the  island  you  will  have  many  things  to  attract  you. 
Among  the  curious  to  behold  will  be  the  Maltese  hood,  fal- 
detta,  presumably  the  insignia  of  modesty,  as  worn  by  the 
women.  Relating  to  this  article  there  is  a  current  legend  that 
after  Valletta  was  seized  by  the  French  troops  the  women  regis- 
tered a  solemn  vow  that  in  memory  of  the  brutal  treatment 
they  had  received  at  the  hands  of  the  cruel  soldiery  they  and 
their  descendants  would  for  the  period  of  one  hundred  years 
dress  in  black,  whenever  they  appeared  upon  the  streets,  and 
that  all  should  wear  a  distinctive  hood  called  the  hood  of  shame. 

But  I  must  not  keep  you  longer,  for  I  have  already  gone 
beyond  the  time  allotted  me.    We  hope  soon  to  stand  upon  this 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 


97 


historic  ground,  and  while  there  let  us  make  the  most  of  our 
time.  Let  us  remember  that  travelincr  and  sight-seeing  are  like 
hospitality,  the  stranger  having  his  share  to  contribute,  other- 
wise the  result  will  be  naught.  "  You  will  find  poetry  nowhere 
unless  you  bring  some  with  you." — Rev.  W.  A.  Huichinson,D.D. 


Malta — More  Familiarly 
"February  2 2d.  Washington's  Birthday,  at  8  A.  M.,  we 
were  surrounded  by  English  forts  and  cannon.  The  Island  of 
Malta,  95  square  miles,  had  been  reached,  and  the  city  Valletta 
was  before  us  with  its  massive  masonry.  We  land  in  boats 
floating  the  Maltese  Cross,  and  make  our  way  through  the  Vic- 
toria Gate  to  the  station  on  the  height,  passing  on  the  way  the 
Post  Office,  (jovernment  Buildings,  one  where  Napoleon  Bona- 
parte stayed  for  several  days,  a  Cathedral  where  we  heard  a 
band  of  school  children  at  their  devotions,  the  Opera  House, 
and  a  monstrous  street  piano  with  horns  and  a  bandmaster 
appearing  in  front.  We  go  down  a  corridor  cut  through  the  rock 
perhaps  200  feet  to  the  cars  which  are  to  take  us,  thanks  to  Mr, 
Clark,  6  or  7  miles  through  the  country  to  Citta  Vecchia,  men- 
tioned by  Cicero  as  notable  in  his  time.  The  country  is  beauti- 
ful with  vegetation.  Every  house  looks  like  a  fort,  and,  as  one 
said,  could,  in  an  emergency,  be  converted  into  stone  fortifica- 
tions. The  houses  are  of  stone,  flat-roofed,  square,  two  stories 
or  more  in  height.  The  fields  are  small,  and  enclosed  in  stone 
fences  6  or  8  feet  high  to  protect  the  crops,  it  is  said,  from  the 
hard  winds  that  blow  over  the  island. 

A  native,  who  was  on  the  train,  pointed  out  his  stone  house 
of  seven  rooms  for  which  he  paid  £6  or  ^30  per  year.  He  said 
that  one  could  build  a  house  for  $1000.  This  seemed  a  pleasant 
place  to  live.  The  land  is  productive,  the  temperature  is  not  very 
high  or  very  low  at  any  time,  varying  from  50°  to  86°  during 
the  year.  The  society,  possibly,  would  be  objectionable.  The 
languages  spoken  are  too  num- 
erous for  a  little  spot  on  the 
surface  of  the  ocean,  Italian, 
French,  Arabic  and  Maltese  ; 
the  origin  of  the  latter  seems 
a  mystery,  perhaps  Phoenician 
and  Arabic  mi.xed.     Of  course. 


N 


o 


Q  024284 


1st  2nd  &  3rd 
ZONE 


Ima  2da  e 
ZONA 


SI 


First 
Class 


D'"     Prima 
Classe 


3za 


02 

—  n 

» 


98 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 


the  official  language  is  English,  but  when  I  talked  to  a  uniformed 
officer  he  was  unable  to  understand,  and  said  he  spoke  Maltese. 
Two-sevenths  of  the  95  square  miles  belong  to  the  Government. 
From  the  rents  they  derive  the  necessary  revenue.  The 
remaining  five-sevenths  are  about  equally  divided  between  the 
church  catholic  and  the  people.  The  guide  told  us  a  rich  man 
had  an  income  of  /250  or  $1250  per  day.  Judging  from 
appearances,  there  are  others  whose  incomes  are  less  than  that. 
The  chief  feature  of  this  city  Vecchia,  is  the  Cathedral  of 
St.  Paul  and  St.  Peter.  Here  the  monks  and  priests  showed  us 
attentions,  and  we  saw  the  paintings  of  St.  Paul's  conversion, 
the  baptism  of  Publius,  die   shipwreck,   the  martyrdom.     The 


Cathedral  at  Citta  Vecchia 


adornments  of  the  altar  were  of  solid  silver  and  eold  without 
alloy.  A  priest  in  our  party  was  an  interpreter,  and  told  us  that 
they  had  in  vaults  below  great  quantities  of  gold  and  silver, 
which  we  might  see  if  we  stayed  long  enough.  On  the  floor  we 
saw  the  tombstones  of  deceased  Bishops.  St.  Luke's  painting 
of  the  Madonna  was  also  shown.  The  Cathedral  was  begun  in 
1697.  An  older  one  (A.  I).  58)  occupied  this  site,  but  was 
destroyed  by  an  earthquake  in  1693.  There  is  another  older 
cathedral  in  Valletta  which  I  did  not  see,  rich  in  decoration, 
monuments,  tapestries,  relics  and  treasure.  This  is  the  place 
where  St.  Paul  was  wrecked,  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Church 
makes  the  most  of  it.    Rich  as  it  is,  their  representatives  were  on 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday  99 

board  to  ask  alms.  Many  of  the  people  seem  to  think  we  came 
over  to  distribute  alms,  and  have  it  all  ready  in  little  envelopes 
to  hand  out  as  it  is  desired. 

Leaving  the  Cathedral  ot  St.  Paul,  a  five  minutes'  walk 
brings  us  to  the  Grotto  of  St.  Paul,  over  which  is  built  a  small 
church.  It  is  greatly  venerated,  because  they  claim  that  here 
St.  Paul  lived  for  three  months.  In  the  little  cave  is  a  marble 
statue  of  St.  Paul,  around  which  we  walk,  and  then  out.  Near 
by  are  the  catacombs,  extending,  they  said,  for  fifteen  miles. 
The  bones  and  remains,  in  the  part  we  were  in,  had  been 
removed  ;  nevertheless,  it  was  a  dark,  gruesome  cavern,  which 
was  lighted  with  candles  as  we  passed  through.  There  were 
family  vaults,  one  each  for  the  father,  mother  and  baby,  etc., 
and  a  place  above  for  sleeping.  These  were  the  first  catacombs 
I  ever  had  entered,  and  they  were  interesting  on  account  of  the 
novelty.  There  was  one  room  called  the  "  chapel  ",  where  they 
worshiped,  and  a  place  for  a  store,  and  two  circular  stones 
about  four  feet  in  diameter,  used,  our  guide  said,  for  grinding 
grain.  These  guides  are  fearfully  and  wonderfully  informed. 
Their  appearance  does  not  usually  give  any  fair  indication  of 
the  vast  amount  of  accurate  information  contained  under  their 
foreign  hats. 

After  the  catacombs  we  started  for  home,  on  the  lookout 
for  Maltese  cats,  which  we  did  not  see  ;  not  one.  The  animals 
seen  were  of  the  plain,  every-day  kind,  unamusing  baskers  in 
the  sunshine.  We  did,  however,  see  beautiful  white  Maltese 
puppy  dogs,  and  our  people  captured  some,  which  deli.e;hted  us 
thereafter  on  the  ship.  The  dress  of  the  Maltese  is  striking  in 
but  one  respect,  the  head-dress  of  the  women.  This  garment, 
made  of  black  silk,  is  a  sort  of  mantilla,  called  the  faldetra  It 
has  one  part  stiff,  like  an  old  shaker,  and  the  whole  serves  as  a 
covering  for  the  head  and  shoulders  and  has  a  gloomy,  peniten- 
tial aspect.  They  seem  to  be  universally  worn  and  uniformly 
the  same.  No  flowers,  no  feathers,  no  rivalry,  no  jealousy. 
What  an  example  to  our  American  ladies  !  F"rankly  I  must 
admit,  however,  that  I  prefer  some  color,  even  at  the  expense 
of  peace  and  blue  jays.  Back  to  the  ship  for  lunch  ;  then  we 
were  given  the  privilege  of  relanding  and  witnessing  the  frolics 
and  processions  incident  to  "Shrove  Tuesday",  the  day  before 
Lent.     The  celebration  is  like  that  at  New  Orleans  on  the  same 


100  Malta:  Washingfton's  Birthday 

day.  Masked  and  caparisoned,  the  people  traverse  the  streets 
with  bands  and  bags  of  confitti.  which  is  thrown  at  passers 
much  as  Indian  corn  is  thrown  on  Hallowe'en.  Many  people 
visited  the  residence  of  the  English  Governor  and  saw  the 
elegant  apartments  with  costly  tapestries. 

There  is  a  difference  between  English  land  and  Spanish  or 
Italian  possession,  with  much  in  favor  of  the  English.  Malta 
has  a  commanding  situation  between  Europe,  Asia  and  Africa, 
and  fine  harbors,  and  when  England,  by  the  treaty  of  Paris  in 
1814,  got  this  fertile  and  fortified  spot,  they  came  into  posses- 
sion of  a  valuable  strategic  point.  We  are  all  beginning  to 
believe  the  man  who  said,  "The  English  know  a  good  thing 
when  they  see  it." 

Malta  has  been  in  possession  of  Phoenicians  and  Greeks, 
Carthagenians  and  Romans,  Arabs  and,  lastly,  Knights  of  St. 
John,  who  got  a  deed  from  Charles  V.  in  1530  and  held  it  for 
268  years,  during  which  time  they  were  besieged  by  the  Turks 
and  bravely  held  their  own  at  great  expense  of  life  and  property. 
They  did  much  to  save  Europe  from  the  hand  of  the  unspeak- 
able Turk.       Many  of  their  Grand    Masters  are  buried  here. 

The  siege  of  Malta  by  the  French  is  interesting  and  should 
be  read.  The  French,  under  General  Bonaparte,  easily  cap- 
tured it  in  1798.  The  French  became  odious.  An  insurrection 
followed,  in  which  the  English  assisted  the  "  Knights  of  Malta  ", 
and,  as  I  have  said,  got  possession  in  18 14.  Since  that  time 
they  have  built  and  improved  and  introduced  progressive 
measures  and  fortified  the  place." — Parke. 

Citta  Vecchia,  St.  Paul's  Bay,  Etc. 
"  About  three  miles  from  Citta  Vecchia  is  located  St.  Paul's 
Bay,  the  supposed  site  of  the  shipwreck  of  St.  Paul. 

We  took  a  carriage  at  Citta  Vecchia  and  drove  to  this  place 
which  possesses  so  deep  an  interest  to  lovers  of  the  great 
apostle,  who  was  never  more  revered  and  beloved  than  he  is 
to-day — and  who  is  not  behind  the  great  captains  of  the  world 
in  intellectual  strength  and  in  the  enormous  volume  of  his 
labors. 

A  view  of  St.  Paul's  Bay  impressed  me  at  once  with  its 
conformity  to  the  description  by  St.  Luke  of  the  place  of  the 
shipwreck,   as   detailed  in   the  twenty-seventh  chapter  of   the 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday  lOI 

Acts.  The  "certain  creek  with  a  shore,  into  the  which  they 
were  minded,  if  it  were  possible,  to  thrust  in  the  ship,"  we 
thought  might  easily  be  the  small  arm  of  the  sea  now  designated 
St.  Paul's  Bay — and  it  was  also  easy  to  identify  the  place 
"where  two  seas  met"  or  where  from  the  standpoint  of  those 
familiar  with  the  ways  of  the  seas,  two  seas  would  really  meet 
during  the  prevalence  of  a  storm.  I  am  informed  that  six  British 
sea  captains,  starting  from  Ceesaria,  the  place  of  embarkation  of 
St.  Paul,  on  his  famous  journey  to  Rome,  went  over  the  route 
indicated  in  the  narrative  in  the  Acts  through  to  Puteoli — the 
seaport  of  Rome — where  he  landed.  Their  judgment  was, 
after  this  careful  investigation,  that  the  story  of  the  voyage  as 
detailed  in  the  Acts  is  acceptable  and  trustworthy  from  the 
standpoint  of  practical  seamen.  A  monument  has  been  erected 
at  St.  Paul's  Bay,  marking  the  traditional  site  of  the  landing  of 
the  ship's  company,  of  which  St.  Paul  was  the  most  conspicuous 
member.  There  is  a  considerable  village  at  St.  Paul's  Bay, 
the  principal  occupation  of  the  inhabitants  being  fishing.  We 
saw  the  fishermen  "mending  their  nets". 

We  visited  the  old  church  in  the  village,  in  which  is  a 
quaint  picture  of  the  shipwreck.  The  place  is  also  something 
of  a  summer  resort,  and  there  are  several  summer  hotels.  We 
lunched  at  the  Hotel  Royal,  and  found  it  unexpectedly  clean  and 
neat.  Our  lunch  was  very  simple,  but  they  made  us  an  excel- 
lent pot  of  tea.  On  reaching  the  village  the  first  sign  that 
attracted  our  attention  was  this  :  "  First  and  last  grog  shop  St. 
Paul's  Bay",  and  one  of  the  first  signs  that  attracted  our  atten- 
tion at  Valletta,  was  :  '  St.  Paul's  coffee  house — ale,  beer,  wines 
and  liquors'  ". — Arclihold. 

In  a  Moment  of  Exhilaration 

"If  I  had  time  such  things  I'd  write 

In  prose  and  rhyme  way  out  of  sight, 

I'd  warble  light  and  airy  glees 

To  cheer  you  brightly  o'er  the  seas. 

In  many  ways  my  fancies  sing 

Like  gentle  breezes  of  the  spring. 

Most  everything  I'd  blithely  do, 

Some  ballading,  an  ode  or  two. 

Twixt  you  and  me, 

'  I  ought  to  be 

Amongst  the  crew 

That  you  might  see — 

But  mercy  me 

I  haven't  time." 

Via  Miss  A. 


J02  Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 

Washington  and  Ideals 

Oration  Delivered  on  Washington's  Birthday,  February  22,  1898,  on  the  S.  S.  "  Aller  ", 

Off  Malta. 

There  is  something  of  real  meaning  and  impressiveness  to 
me  in  this  great  gathering,  with  its  fine  enthusiasm  and  its  just 
pride  in  a  great  national  hero.  We  are  afloat  upon  the  waters 
of  the  most  fascinating  sea  of  history — the  sea  of  the  middle 
earth — from  whose  shores,  in  the  elder  world,  crept  timidly 
forth  the  impulses  of  modern  civilization.  We  are  weary  with 
the  streaming  sensations  of  a  wonderful  holiday,  amid  merry- 
makings of  yonder  historic  island*  fortress,  but  in  spirit,  I  dare 
say,  each  one  of  us  sees  his  home  across  all  this  waste  of  sea, 
and  there  is  pride  and  gratitude  to  God  for  the  great  Republic. 
Rough  old  Samuel  Johnston  defined  patriotism  to  be  the  last 
refuge  of  a  scoundrel.  The  definition  was  a  brutal  sneer — a 
vicious  half-truth.  It  is  true  that  the  baser  sort  hold  too 
cheaply  national  honor  and  glory.  It  is  quite  true  also  that 
scoundrels  have  worn  this  strenuous  emotion  as  a  garment  and 
hypocrites  have  used  it  as  a  mask,  but  the  thing  itself  is  a 
serene,  holy,  definite  emotion,  and  he  who  has  it  not  may  creep 
along  the  valleys  of  life,  but  can  never  hope  to  stand  upright 
upon  its  mountain  ranges.  It  is  a  difficult  thing  to  define  and 
weigh  and  measure.  One  may  as  well  hope  to  define  and 
measure  a  mother's  love,  or  the  rose's  sweetness,  or  the  glory 
of  the  sunset,  as  we  saw  it  the  other  day  in  the  Azores,  touch- 
ing with  gold  the  edges  of  the  clouds,  that  wreathed  about  that 
wondrous  mountain  in  the  sea.  But  the  love  is  there  and  the 
sweetness  and  the  splendor  are  there,  and  there  is  not  lacking 
to  each  one  of  us  the  heart's  assurance  that  love  of  country  is  a 
potent,  gracious,  resistless  sentiment. 

There  are  few  periods  of  heroic  greatness  in  any  nation's 
life.  Nations,  Hke  men,  for  the  most  part,  spend  their  days  in 
learning  the  arts  of  peace  and  in  gathering  treasures,  which 
weaken  and  devitalize  and  corrupt.  Now  and  then  God  sends 
times  of  thunder  and  storm  to  teach  men  truth  of  word  and 
strength  of  deed.  There  have  been  two  such  notable  periods 
in  our  history — the  period  of  the  Revolution  and  the  period  of 

*  Island  of  Malta,  February  22,  1898. 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday  JOS 

the  Civil  War.  Forth  from  each  have  issued  some  of  the 
noblest  sanctities  of  life  in  the  form  of  great,  simple,  earnest 
men  like  Samuel  Adams,  and  George  Washington,  and  Abraham 
Lincoln,  and  Robert  E.  Lee,  and  Ulysses  S.  Grant,  and  Stone- 
wall Jackson.  The  highest  intellectual  and  spiritual  achieve- 
ment of  a  State  is  to  breed  such  men  as  these,  and  the  magic 
influence  of  their  lives  can  compensate  for  much  of  the  blood- 
letting and  horror  of  war  by  establishing  among  men  new  ideals 
of  conduct  and  by  recalling  men  vividly  from  sordidness  and  the 
philosophy  of  Rob  Roy,  to  service  and  the  philosophy  of  Jesus 
Christ. 

It  is  a  mere  commonplace  of  thought  to  say  that  national 
character  as  well  as  individual  character  comes  out  of  ideals. 
Men  copy  personalities,  and  nations  are  moulded  by  their 
heroes.  We  should,  therefore,  never  cease  to  be  grateful  to 
the  Ruler  of  Nations  for  setting  in  the  forefront  of  our  life,  the 
regnant,  self-poised  figure  of  George  Washington.  Here  was 
the  man  a  new,  buoyant,  untried  nation  had  need  of,  and  shall 
have  need  of  for  centuries,  to  guide  and  inform  its  spirit  and  its 
eager  aspirations.  He  was  a  simple  Virginia  planter,  strong- 
willed  and  resolute,  unspoiled  by  victory,  undismayed  by  peril, 
unshaken  by  disaster,  seeing  things  straight  and  clear,  and 
countinof  himself  but  little  if  the  deed  in  hand  were  done 
worthily.  Have  you  ever  fancied  how  different  might  have 
been  our  national  story,  if  George  Washington  had  been  other 
than  he  was  ?  Suppose  he  had  been  smitten  like  the  great 
French  emperor  with  some  madness  for  glory,  "  the  eagles  of 
inspiration  building  their  eyries  in  his  brain  and  the  serpents  of 
ambition  hissing  in  his  heart."  What  woeful  tale  of  ruin  and 
revolution  might  we  not  have  to  unfold  !  But  our  hero  was  a 
beautiful,  well-balanced  man,  who  spelt  duty  out  of  life,  and 
saw  God  in  His  heaven  and  in  the  wide  earth,  and  there  was 
enacted  instead  that  quiet  scene  of  pathetic  nobility  at  New- 
burgh  when  he  laid  down  his  sword  and  set  aside  a  crown,  and 
that  other  scene  in  the  Constitutional  Convention,  when  his 
august  presence  composed  the  warring  elements  and  made 
possible  our  great  charter.  Washington  did  not  possess  the 
impulses  of  a  conqueror.  He  had  no  surpassing  gifts  of 
energy  or  creativeness.  He  has  no  place  among  the  Genghis 
Khans  and  Alexanders  and  Napoleons.       He  was  no  potent 


J04 


Malta:  Washington's  Birthday 


half  demon  and  half  angel,  reflecting  in  his  eyes  the  sabre's 
flash.  His  strength  was  the  strength  of  great  sanity,  of  great 
fortitude,  of  great  love,  of  great  genius  for  the  right.  No 
myth  or  legend  or  cycle  of  romance  has  swallowed  up  the  clear 
outline  of  his  human  form  and  character.  He  lives  as  a  man  of 
flesh  and  blood,  who  worked  and  endured  and  loved  and  hated, 
and  swore  roundly,  upon  occasion,  at  weaklings  and  cowards 
and  traitors.  Washington  was  never  a  great  popular  leader. 
He  had  too  grand  an  air  for  that  and  too  proud  a  faith  in  blood 
and  breeding.  The  young  giant.  Democracy,  was  just  stirring 
himself  and  coming  into  a  knowledge  of  his  strength  in  those 
early  days.  Philosophers  and  poets  were  dreaming  and  singing 
of  the  fairer  world  when  the  people  would  rule  benignly,  and 
not  king  or  master.  Washington  stood  erect  before  this  vision 
with  clean  hands  and  white 
garments,  and  the  malign 
figure  of  the  demagogue 
glided  affrighted  from  his 
presence.  The  gilded 
youth  of  Pompeii,  doubt- 
less, had  their  fling  at  the 
heroes  of  their  day,  and 
the  American  paragrapher 
and  Fourth  of  July  orator, 
with  little  hatchet  stories 
and  fulsome  eulogy,  have 
done  their  worst  to  mar  the 
grand  outlines  of  this 
Homeric  figure,  but  they 
have  failed.  Nothing  can 
cheapen  him.  The  great 
shaft  at  Washington,  rising  rugged  and  massive  into  the  upper  air 
is  not  whiter  nor  cleaner  nor  firmer  than  his  fame.  God's  kind 
purpose  shines  forth  in  his  leadership  of  the  New  W^orld. 
Democracies  need  ballast  more  than  brilliancy  in  their  rough 
work.  The  peril  of  an  aristocracy  is  stupidity  and  inefficiency. 
The  peril  of  a  Democracy  is  coarseness  and  vulgarity.  What  is 
forever  needed  by  them  is  something  to  make  them  respect 
themselves  and  to  have  faith  in  themselves.  The  poor  mediaeval 
peasant  got  some  uplift  in  thought  from  vast  dim  cathedrals. 


North,  South,  East  and  West 


Malta!  "Washington's  Birthday  JOS 

from  solemn  music,  from  flashing  armor  and  the  tramp  of  the 
nobility  marching  to  battle.  Democracy  must  get  its  uplift 
from  inner  impulses  of  strength  and  beauty  and  enthusiasm, 
from  some  fair  product  of  its  own  handiwork.  Such  a  product 
was  George  Washington.  We  of  the  South  do  not  seek  to 
claim  him  in  any  narrow  local  way,  as  you  of  the  North  cannot 
lay  sectional  claim  to  the  fame  of  Adams  and  Otis  and  Hancock. 
They  are  great  Americans  of  ample  build,  of 

' '  The  high  statured  age 
When  into  grander  forms  our  mortal  melal  ran." 

I  looked,  the  other  day,  into  the  calm,  high  features  of  the 
bronze  image  of  Washington  in  Wall  Street,  while  all  about  the 
heroic  figure  surged  the  hurrying,  gain-getting  throng.  A  new 
sense  of  the  truth  that  there  is  no  particular  epoch  of  heroic 
achievement  came  to  my  mind.  It  was  the  part  of  the  fathers  to 
discover,  to  define  and  to  inaugurate  the  sum  of  human  rights. 
It  is  our  part  to  perpetuate,  to  administer  and  to  defend  these 
rights  after  a  century  of  intellectual  audacity  has  swept  the  world 
into  a  grander  day.  They  heard  the  faintest  cries  of  liberty  and 
opportunity  sounding  in  the  world.  It  is  ours  to  make  those 
faint  cries  everyday  facts  of  life  and  law.  Republican  citizenship 
is  indeed  a  sort  of  unceasing  civic  warfare.  "  The  jewel  of  lib- 
erty will  not  remain  supinely  in  the  family  of  Freedom."  No 
foreign  foes  or  stupid  kings  may  menace  us  longer  across  the 
seas,  but  new  shapes  of  oppression  and  new  forms  of  danger 
have  been  born  into  the  world,  and  there  is  still  work  for  men 
to  do.  And  so  wherever  our  good  ship  may  bear  us,  whether 
to  the  pale  hills  of  Judea  or  the  rocky  heights  about  Athens,  or 
the  marble  ruins  of  the  Forum,  or  to  the  fierce  activities  of  the 
world's  great  modern  capitals,  we  may  be  sure  that  no  nation  has 
now,  or  has  ever  had,  a  loftier  figure  as  its  national  ideal  than 
George  Washington,  whose  all  cloudless  glory  it  was  to  save  his 
country  and  to  create  a  nation. — President  Alderman  of  The 
Ujiiversity  of  North  Carolina. 


ITALY 
Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


ITALY 

Bibliography—  Genoa 

Johnson,  Virginia  \V.     Cenoa  the  Superb.     The  City  of  Columbus.    Photographs. 

Boston. 
Campo  Santo.      Genoa.     (M.  Halstead.)     Cosmopolitan.     Vol.   14,  p.  591. 


Naples 

H.ARE,  A.  J.  C.    Cities  of  Southern  Italy  and  Sicily.    Illustrated.    London.    New  York. 

Forbes,  S.  R.     Rambles  in  Naples. 

Rolf,  E.  Neville.     Naples  in  the  nineties.     A  sequel  to  Naples  in  1888. 

Stoddard,  John  L.     vol.  8.      Lectures.      Illustrated. 

Gkegorovius,  F.     The  Island  of  Capri.      Translated.     Boston. 


Pompeii 

Butler,  W.  F.     Pompeii.     Descriptive  and  Picturesque.      London. 

DvER,    Dr.    T.    H.      Pompeii.     Its    Buildings    and    Antiquities.     300   illustrations. 

Bohn's  library. 
Rolf,  E.  N.     Pompeii.     Popular  and  Practical.     London. 
Garden  of  Pompeii.      Littell's  Living  Age.      (Boston.)     vol.  183,  p.  56. 
Interior  of  a   Pompeian    House.     (H.    G.   Huntingdon.)     Cosmopolitan,     vol.    24. 

p.  525  (March,  1898.) 
LvTTON,  Sir  E.  Bulwer.    Last  Days  of  Pompeii. 


Vesuvius 

BoNNhY,  T.  G.  (D.  Sc,  LL.  D.,  F.  R.  S.)  Volcanoes;  their  Structure  and  Signifi- 
cance. 321  pages.  Illustrated.  Glossary.  Index.  London  and  New  York. 
(Contains  vivid  description  eruption  in  '79.) 

JUDD,  Prof.  J.  W.  Volcanoes.  What  they  are  and  teach.  96  illustrations.  (Inter- 
national Scientific  Series.)    London. 

Under  Shadow  of  Vesuvius.     (E.  Fawcett.)     Cosmopolitan.     Vol.  22,  p.  3. 

RoDWELL,  G.  F.  History  of  Etna  :  The  Mountain  and  its  Eruption  ;  map  ;  illustra- 
ted.    London, 


(109) 


no 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


5> 


t 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


IIJ 


Naples 

Naples  is  older  than  Rome  and  old  buildings  are  to  be 
expected.  The  tendency  is  skyward,  but  they  are  not  so  high 
as  those  of  Chicago,  where,  they  say,  if  you  drop  a  baby  out 
of  the  window  of  the  top  story  it  will  be  an  old  man  before  it 
reaches  the  bottom.  It  is  not  necessary  to  believe  this  or  to 
repeat  it  to  your  closest  friends. 

The  buildings,  outside  of  the  public  buildings,  which  are 
palaces,  have  a  general  look  of  being  squeezed  thin,  with  a 
multitude  of  excrescences  in  the  shape  of  balconies,  where  a 
network  of  clothes-lines  cross  from  street  to  street  and  vari- 
ously colored  and  shaped  garments  flap  in  the  wind. 

We  passed  many  imposing  edifices,  among  them  the  palace 
of  "  King  Humbert  "  with  its  gardens.  There  was  a  magnificent 
park  along  the  bay,  about  which  we  rode  and  which  we  sur- 
veyed. As  we  rode  a  tunnel  faced  us  leading  through  a  cliff 
upon  which  was  an  old  and  striking  monastery  in  sight  as  we 
entered  the  harbor.  Our  driver  spoke  Italian,  but  did  not  seem 
familiar  with  the  language  of  his  illustrious  fathers  :  latin. 

We  saw  milk  peddlers  with  their  large,  leisure-loving  cows 

going  along  the  streets,  or  droves  of  goats  with  tinkling  bells 

passing  along  the  pavements,  both  ready  to  draw  a  fresh  supply 

from,  "while  you  wait". 

I    saw   them  buy  by   the 

tumblerful,  the  seller  seeking 

to    sell  foam    and   the    buyer 

anxious   to  buy    milk.       Here 

you  would  expect  the  milk  to 

be  pure,  but  beware,  the  wily 

Italian  sometimes  has  a    tube 

"  up  his  sleeve". 

It  was  a  strange  sight  to  us 

Americans  to  see  the  donkeys, 

goats,  cows,  etc.,  on  the  pave- 
ments and  with  as  many  rights 

as    the    "city    fathers".       The 

cows  have  long  horns  and  meek 

dispositions.    They  are  modest 

and     retiring,    and    1    noticed 


ORDER  FOR  THE  DAY 
February  20th,  Naples 

6.15  a.m.  Breakfast  (second  sitting  6.45 
a.  m.)  715  a.  m.  \^esuvius  Section  120  land 
on  steam  tenders,  drive  up  Vesuvius  to  Pompeii 
and  back  to  Naples  and  dine  8  or  9  p.  m. 
(March  24th  carriage  drive  in  Naples  for  \'esu- 
vius  Section,  leaving  by  train  3  p.  m.  Arrive 
Rome  8.25  p.  m.). 

All  other  passengers  land  8  a.  m. ,  drive  to 
Station,  special  train  to  Pompeii  and  back  (eat 
ship's  lunches  at  Hotel  Diomede  Pompeii)  ; 
drive  4  hours  in  Naples,  dine  on  board. 

All  passengers  will  be  landed  again  after 
dinner  to  witness  the  Grand  Carnival  proces- 
sions, illuminations,  etc.,  this  being  the  open- 
ing night  of  Carnival,  Return  to  ship  in 
Clark's  boats,  flying  the  American  flag  any  time 
up  to  3  a.  m. 

Feb.  2 1st  Aller  leaves  Naples  4  a.  m. 
in  order  to  treat  the  passengers  to  a  daylight 
view  of  the  Volcanos  Stramboli  and  Etna,  also 
Scylla,  Charibdes  and  the  coasts  of  Sicily  and 
Italy. 

F.    C.    Cl.AKK. 


n2 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


nothing  unbecoming  a  gentleman  in  their  manners.  They 
seemed  to  be  contented  with  Italy,  and,  unlike  their  associates, 
did  not  stoop  to  beg. 

Outside  the  heart  of  the  city  the  buildings  are  square  and 
squatty,  like  dry  goods  boxes,  not  notably  new  or  neat.  Here 
and  there  were  seen  "  padres",  clean-shaven,  well  fed,  in  black 
gowns  and  furry  hats.  Soldiers,  too,  horse  and  foot,  are 
common,  rather  natty  looking,  with  cap  and  feathers  and 
sword. 

The  streets  of  the  bayside  teem  with  life  ;  men  such  as  we 
see  of  the  Italian  race  in  America.     One  has  described  the 
women    thus,    "  Black    eyed,    frowsy    headed,    heavy    bodied, 
beaded  and  banded,  bewrapped,  bescarfed  and  wadded,  early, 
ripe  and  quickly  aged." 


From  Door  to  Door 


As  we  ride  through  on  our  way  to  the  mountain,  we  see 
fruit  stands,  junk  dealers,  fisherwomen,  peddlers  and  beggars. 
This  is  the  home  of  dance  and  song,  music  and  macaroni. 
Of  the  last  article  we  saw  great  quantities,  whose  proximity 
to  things  not  pure  and  sweet  made  us  stop  and  in  our  minds 
ponder.  It  had  rained  and  the  streets  were  black  and  slippery 
with  mud  unromantic.  Fruit,  vegetables,  bread,  frankfurters, 
and,  indeed,  edibles  of  all  kinds  were  terribly  and  uncomfortably 
near  this  putrid  paste.  Dogs,  donkeys,  mules,  cows,  horses,  all 
were  used  as  motors.  It  mattered  little  how  small  the  donkey, 
he  seemed  able  to  hold  his  own  with  loads  much  larger  than 
himself.  It  was  remarkable  what  enormous  loads  could  be  put 
and  moved  upon  a  vehicle  of  only  two  wheels.  Occasionally, 
we  would  see  a  fine  big  stylish  horse,  but  none  had  check 
reins,  few  had  blinds,  and  many  were  without  the  cruel  bit. 


Naples,  Vesovios,  Pompeii  Jt3 

You  may  wonder  how  they  were  guided  and  controlled. 
They  had,  instead  of  bits,  leather  straps  about  the  nose  with 
bars  projecting  on  either  side,  at  the  ends  of  which  the  reins 
were  fastened. 

Another  noticeable  mark  was  the  saddle  which  was  raised 
considerably  and  adorned  with  brass  nails,  ribbons,  tufts  of  hair 
and  bells. 

Our  way  along  the  shore  to  the  east  was  between  solid 
stone,  plastered  walls,  pierced  by  archways  at  intervals,  through 
which  we  caught  charming  glimpses  of  orange  groves  and 
gardens  of  tropical  plants.  On  we  rode  with  our  three  horse 
team  between  groves  of  fig  trees,  still  bare,  and  blossoming 
almond.  Further  up  our  zigzag  road,  we  came  to  vineyards, 
trimmed  and  trained.  The  soil  seemed  rich  and  mellow,  disin- 
tegrated lava,  we  would  say.  Beggars  of  all  descriptions  fol- 
lowed and  kept  pace  with  our 
carriages,  little  ragamuffins, 
male  and  female.  A  quartette 
of  little  girls  sangand  sang  well, 
to  open  our  purses,  but  they 
were  hard  to  unclasp.  At  one 
point  our  driver,  a  villainous 
specimen,    suddenly    stopped, 

,       a-  ^  ,    r  "Up  "to  Hades 

jumped  on,  and  started  lor  an- 
other specimen  who  had  been  following  us.  The  pursued  made 
for  an  alley  and  suddenly  disappeared.  The  driver  explained 
to  us  that  the  Dago  was  about  to  make  way  with  our  lunches. 
We  were  willing  to  have  him  fight  for  us,  but  did  not  care  to 
come  to  any  disagreement  with  one  so  villainous  in  appearance. 

At  another  place  an  Italian  band  with  mandolin,  guitar 
and  violin  trudged  by  our  side  and  made  melody,  but  ineffec- 
tive. Near  the  top,  trinkets  of  lava  were  offered  at  "rare" 
bargains.  Lava  seemed  awfully  common  all  about  us  for  miles 
and  miles.  Compared  with  this  colossal  pile,  the  culm  banks 
of  Pennsylvania  are  mere  specks. 

We  reach  with  our  lives  the  stopping  place  of  the  car- 
riages. I  reached  it  on  foot,  climbing  across  the  terraces,  which 
greatly  shortened  the  distance,  in  mercy  to  the  horses. 

Here  a  herd  of  horses,  mules  and  donkeys  awaited  us.  For 
two  miles  we  were  equestrians  and  with  varying  experiences, 


n4  Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 

at  one  time  a  poor  path  and  a  slow  walk,  at  another  a  good 
road  and  a  canter  with  the  guide  hanging  to  the  tail  of  our 
animal.  Some  donkeys  were  very  musical.  One  man  from 
Pittsburg  told  me  that  his  mule  "  hollered  "  the  entire  two  miles, 
attracting  to  him  attention  undesirable.  I  noticed  a  young  lady 
from  North  CaroHna  riding  down  upon  a  gray  old  donkey,  who 
was  practicing  a  bass  solo  for  the  next  trip  up.  Old  and  young 
did  not  hesitate  to  mount  a  mule  or  some  other  four  footed 
beast,  but  many  regretted  the  step. 

The  too  faint-hearted  were  carried  up  on  chairs.  One 
bearded  lawyer  from  Pennsylvania  had  a  donkey  that  stumbled, 
and  the  lawyer  came  within  an  ace  of  losing  his  dignity  and 
sUding  over  the  head  to  a  lower  stratum.  Our  ride  was  over, 
and  we  were  at  the  top  of  oceans  of  lava.  As  the  lava  cooled, 
so  now  it  lies — knotted,  like  the  roots  of  aged  oaks,  in  black 

and  wavy  piles  or  in  masses  like  the 
interwoven  bodies  of  serpents.  Where 
lava  meets  the  cinder  and  ashes,  we  take 
cable  cars  sliding  on  one  rail  each,  but 
kept  from  tipping  by  guides  at  each 
side.  The  angle  at  which  they  ascend 
is  appalling.  It  was  not  a  clear  day  or 
my  heart  might  have  failed  me.  Dizzy 
"Funicoiare"  hciglits  or  great  depths  have  no  attrac- 

tions for  me.  Steeling  my  fears  and  trusting  to  the  friendly 
fog,  I  started,  and  rode  for  a  thousand  feet  or  more  with  volcanic 
cinder  on  every  hand.  Reaching  the  top,  we  had  a  twenty 
minutes'  walk  through  the  cinder,  soft  and  damp,  and  in  places 
hot,  till  we  were  4000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  which 
should  have  been  visible.  The  huge  crater  of  1872  was  before 
us,  6cK)  feet  in  diameter.  Smoke  and  steam  and  the  internal 
rumble  and  roar  of  the  earth  made  the  moment  momentous. 
When  the  earth  began  to  grumble  the  guides  were  ready 
to  back  away,  and  I  was  readier,  for  it  looked  as  if  you  might 
expect  the  infernal  regions  to  yawn, — a  black  gulf,  filled  with 
billows  of  steam,  muffled  thunder,  hissing,  roaring,  spluttering, 
bubbling,  molten  matter,  enveloped  in  fumes  of  sulphur.  It 
was  unsafe  to  enter  the  crater  on  account  of  the  fog,  whose 
density  prevented  our  seeing  more  than  a  few  feet.  Stones 
were   thrown   out,  but  fortunately  the  wind  was  blowing  from 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


ns 


TTie  Crater 


US  and  few  fell  on  our  side,  (juides  pounced  upon  the  slag 
while  it  was  still  hot  and  pressed  into  it  coins,  and  bending  the 
sides  up  sold  the  production  for  a  franc. 

Our  return  was  without  great  incident.  We  reached  the 
vessel  in  time  for  dinner,  at  6.30.  during  which  we  were  enter- 
tained by  a  singing  band  of  Italians  from  Sorrento. 

We  saw  on  our  return  trip  some  beautiful  views  of  city 
and  sea.  The  bay  of  Naples  is  famous,  and,  without  doubt,  is 
beautiful,  but  alas,  rain  and  fog  enveloped  sunny  Italy. 

"See  Naples  and  die"  is  an  old  proverb,  but  the  sun  sets 
on  spots  as  beautiful  in  our  own  patria. 


n6 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


^ 


t 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


n? 


To-day's  feature  was  the  sail  past  Stromboli, 
3020  feet  high,  which  is  continually  in  a  state  ot 
eruption.  There  is  at  its  base  a  settlement, 
which  was  quite  plain.  This  is  one  of  the  yEolian 
Islands  and  the  fabled  home  of  the  king  of  the 
winds,  yEolus,  whom  Juno  called  to  her  assist- 
ance to  wreck  the  fleet  of  the  wondering  Aineas. 

We  sailed  between  the  famous  Scylla  and 
Charybdis  whirlpools,  both  of  which  were  consid- 
ered most  dangerous  to  ships.  The  strait  was 
one  that  demanded  the  undivided  attention  of 
our  captain,  as  I  found  to  my  sorrow  when  I 
asked  for  information. 


Apparently  gruff 
And  much  in  a  huff 
He  applied  a  rebuff 
F^ffective  enough        ~ 
To  be  styled  "hot  stuff," 
Little  short  of  a  cuff. 
He  seemed  rather  rough, 
The  experience  tough 
A  bit  was  enough 
For  a  Duff — 
Er  like  me. 


Still  we  saw  no  whirlpool,  but  on  the  Italian  side  were  promon- 
tories which  would  wreck  a  ship  with  half  an  opportunity. 

The  Sicilian  Strait  (10,800  feet)  is  2  miles  wide.  The  hills 
on  each  side  are  under  cultivation,  but  on  all  the  hills  there  is  a 
noticeable  lack  of  trees  and  forest  scenery.  Messina  (the  city 
in  Sicily)  has  a  population  of  80,000,  and  seemed 
to  be  a  prosperous  and  progressive  city.  For  a 
long  time  we  looked  for  the  mount  made  famous 
by  Virgil,  yEtna,  where  or  near  where  the 
Cyclops,  the  yEtnean  brothers,  lived,  but  we 
looked  in  vain.  We  came  through  the  reputed 
whirlpool  in  a  rain-storm,  not  severe,  but  suffi- 
cient to  obscure  the  view  which  we  greatly  desired. 
There  are  mountains  in  quantity  that  were  snow- 
capped, but  none  that  were  1 1,000  teet,  as  /Ktna 
is  said  to  be.  This  is  nearly  three  times  the 
height   of   Mt.  Vesuvius,  and,  consequently,  we 


looked  for  something  elevated. — Parke. 


Series  1201  I. 

Funicolare 
Vesuviana  "Cook." 

V.3508 

UN   POSTO 

PIANO 

FUNICOLARE 

SALITA 


DISCESA. 


Da   presentarsi    alia 
Stazione  inferiore. 


118 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


Up  Vesuvius  on  Donkey  Back 

Getting  as  far  as  we  could  go  in  carriages,  we 
came  to  a  big  stable-like  place  where  a  number  of 
saddled  donkeys  and  their  drivers  were  waiting  to 
meet  us.  I  was  in  front,  but  I  modestly  shrank  back, 
preferring  to  see  others  accommodated,  but  a  big 
Italian  singled  me  out,  and  I  was  obliged  to  mount 
first  of  all.  Carefully  noticing  which  foot  I  should 
first  put  in  the  stirrup,  so  that  when  I  got  into  the 
saddle  I  should  not  find  myself  facing  the  animal's 
tail,  as  they  say  one  man  did,  I  mounted,  and  then,  as  misery 
loves  company,  I  watched  the  others.  All  went  well  till  they 
got  to  two  adipose  Allerites.  One  was  heavy,  the  other  was 
tall  and  very  heavy.  The  first  one  they  managed  to  get  into 
the  saddle.  The  second,  after  several  vain  attempts  on  the 
part  of  three  men  to  raise  her  into  position,  was  led  by  them 
up  onto  a  rock,  and  then  they  endeavored  to  lower  her  from  the 
top  of  this  rock  onto  the  donkey,  but,  not  having  a  derrick 
and  proper  tackle,  it  was  a  failure.     When  the  time  came  to 


Nn. 

3107 

V  AGG 

COOK 

"U  N  ICOLARE 

VESUVIANA  m.^ 

BUONO 

per  un  Cavallo  o  Asino  dal  Cancello 
Stazione  inferiore. 

alia 

-•^9^$^^  Mancia   compreso.  «««€€««» 

start,  one  of  the  Italians  came  up  to  my  donkey,  and,  taking  him 
by  the  tail,  he  commenced  to  belabor  his  rear  with  a  stick. 
Jack  took  several  whacks  quietly,  seemingly  ignorant  that  any- 
thing was  going  on  behind  him,  but  after  a  while  impressions 
were  slowly  transmitted  through  him  from  rear  to  front,  and  he 
raised  his  head  and  started  on  a  run,  the  Dago  hanging  on  to 
his  tail,  while  I  had  all  I  could  do  to  hang  on  to  the  saddle. 


Naples,  Vesuvius,  Pompeii 


U9 


Finally  the  little  brute  succeeded  in  pulling  his  tail  out  of  the 
fellow's  hand,  and  bolted  up  the  road.  Left  to  ourselves,  I 
talked  to  him,  and  induced  him  to  go  slower,  which,  I  will  do 
him  justice  to  say,  he  seemed  very  willing  to  do,  and 

Jack  and  I  went  up  the  hill  to  see  the  crater, 

Jack  fell  down — 
No,  he  did  not,  but  he  came  awfully  near  it,  and  still  nearer 
to  pitching  me  into  a  pile  of  pumice-stone. — Spencer. 


The  Buried  City 


Pompeii 

A  ride  of  a  few  minutes  along  the  bay  brought  us  to]  the 
station,  whence  we  made  our  way  into  the  strangest  city  on  the 
earth.  We  are  counted  at  the  turnstile  and  enter  first  the 
museum  containing  its  plaster  casts  of  men  and  women  and 
animals,  showing  their  positions  in  the  agony  of  death  struggle, 
and  even  the  horror  of  a  horrible  death  by  suffocation  depicted 
upon  the  faces. 

From  the  museum  we  are  taken  by  the  guides,  furnished  by 
the  government,  about  the  streets  and  houses  of  this  city 
destroyed  in  79  A.  D.  by  the  monster  smoker,  who,  still  threat- 
eningly, indulges  in  fumes  and  vapors  above  the  deserted  city. 
Pompeii  has  not  been  all  excavated,  nevertheless  one  needs  a 
guide,  or  he  may  lose  his  way  in  this  uncovered  roofless  city. 
Whatever  doubt  there  may  be  about  things  sacred  and  historical, 


120 


Naples,  Vesuvius,   Pompeii 


there  is  no  doubt  about 
these  remains.  The  evi- 
dence is  convincinof.  We 
are  shown  wine  shops  in 
great  numbers,  oil  shops, 
stores,  private  liomes,  bath 
houses,  theatres,  and 
churches.  The  streets 
are  all  covered  widi  stone 
and  these  in  the  main 
streets  show  all  the  wear 
Forum-Pompeii  ^jid  tear  of  lieavy  wheels 

for  years.  The  pavements  are  stone.  At  the  cross  streets 
there  are  large  stones  used  for  stepping  across  the  streets, 
which  are  often  very  narrow  and  below  the  sidewalk.  In  some 
places  large  stones  were 
placed  upright  showing 
that  only  pedestrians  used 
the  streets.  While  the 
destruction  of  Pompeii 
was  a  terrible  disaster, 
the  buried  city  is  a  god- 
send to  those  who  study 
the  life    of  Roman  people   during   the    imperial    period. 

There  was  an  earthquake  in  63  A.  D.,  which  caused  much 
destruction.     Then  the   eruption  of  Vesuvius  in  79  completely 

buried  Herculaneum 
with  lava,  and  Pom- 
peii with  ashes.  It 
seems  strange  that 
the  memory  of  the 
cities  was  lost  for  so 
long  a  time,  that  is 
from  79  to  1713,  over 
sixteen  centuries. 
Pompeii  was  discov- 
ered by  accident. 
Men  digging  a  well 
came  upon  the  ruins. 
— Parke. 


Siepping  Stones— Pompeii 


In  the  Streets  of  Pompsii 


EGYPT 
Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


EGYPT 

Bibliography 

Ebers,  Prof.  George.  Egypt :  Descriptive,  Historical  and  Picturesque.  Trans- 
lated from  the  original  by  Clara  Bell.  Introduction  and  notes  by  S.  Birch. 
2  vols.     Illustrated.     London  and  New  York. 

Ci'RTis,  Geo.  Wm.     Nile  Notes  of  a  Howadji.     pp.  362.     New  York  (Harper). 

Edwards,  Miss  Amelia  B.  Thousand  Miles  Up  the  Nile.  London  (Longman), 
1876. 

Egypt,  Photographs  of  the  Country  and  Its  Monuments.  Albums  photographiques 
par  Bonfels  a  Beyrouth  fol.     Paris,  1872. 

Field.  Rev.  Henry  M.     On  the  Desert.     New  York. 

Klunzinger,  Dr.  C.  B.  Upper  Egypt;  Its  People  and  Its  Products.  24  illustra- 
tions.    New  York. 

Leland,  Charles  G.     The  Egyptian  Sketch-book.     VII,  pp.  316.     London. 

Stoddard,  John  L.  Egypt.  "John  L.Stoddard's  Lectures,"  vol.  11;  illustrated. 
Boston. 

Warner,  C.  D.     My  Winter  ■on  the  Nile  among  Mummies  and  Moslems.     Boston. 

Wilson.  Sir  Chas.  Wm.  Picturesque  Palestine,  Sinai  and  Egypt,  with  an  Introduc- 
tion by  Dean  Stanley.     4  vols.     Illustrated.     London. 

Wilkinson,  Sir.  J.  G.  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians.  Edited 
by  Birch.     Colored  plates  and  illustrations.     3  vols.     London. 

Wilkinson,  Sir  J.  G.  Manners  and  Customs  of  the  Modern  Egyptians.  Illus- 
trated.    London. 

Wilkinson,  Sir  J.  G.  Popular  Account  of  the  Ancient  Egyptians.  2  vols.  500 
illustrations.     London. 

Erman,  Prof.  Adolf.  Life  in  Ancient  Egypt.  Translated  by  Mrs.  H.  M.  Tirard. 
Maps  and  illustrations.     Macmillan.     Latest  and  best. 

Maspero,  G.  Life  in  Ancient  Egypt  and  Assyria.  Translated  by  A.  P.  Morton. 
188  illustrations.     New  York. 

Graphic  description  of  the  epochs  best  known,  of  Egypt,  that  of  Rameses 
(fourteenth  century  B.  C.)  ;  of  Assyria,  that  of  Assurbanipal  (seventh  century 
B.  C). 

Maspero.  The  Dawn  of  Civilization.  (Egypt  and  Caldaea.)  Edited  by  Prof. 
Sayce ;  translated  by  M.  L.  McClure.     Illustrated.     Maps.     New  York. 

Robinson,  Chas.  S.  (D.  D.,  LL  D.  Fellow  AUeiite.  Died,  February,  1899).  The 
Pharaohs  of  the  Bondage  and  the  Exodus.     New  York. 

Rawlinson.  Geo  Ancient  Egypt.  (Story  of  the  Nations'  Ser.)  Illustrated.  New 
York. 

Petrie,  W.  M.  F.     History  of  Egypt.     Vol.  I,  Dynasties,  I-XIV. 

Petrie,  W.  M.  F.     History  of  Egypt.     Vol.  II,  Dynasties,  XVII-XX. 

Petrie,  W.  M.  F.     History  of  Egypt.     Vol.  Ill,  Dynasties,  XXI-XXX. 

Mahaffy,  J.  P.     History  of  Egypt.     Vol.  IV,  Ptolemaic  Dynasty.     1899. 

Milne.  J.  Grafton.     History  of  Egypt.     Vol.  V,  Under  Roman  Rule.     1898. 

Pool,  Stanley  Lane.  History  of  Egypt.  Vol.  VI,  Arabic  Egypt.  Illustrated. 
New  York.     Sold  separately. 

Petrie,  W.  M.  F.  Religion  and  Conscience  in  Ancient  Egypt.  Lectures  delivered 
at  University  College,  London.     New  York. 

Ottlev,  Henry  Bickerstetii.  Modern  Egypt:  Its  Witness  to  Christ.  Lectures 
after  a  visit  to  Egypt  in  1883.     pp.  x.  221.     London. 

(123) 


J24  Egypt:  Bibliography 

MuiR,  Sir  I.     The  Life  of  Mahomet.     New  York. 

MuiR,  Sir  I.    The  Mameluke  or  Slave  Dynasty  of  Egypt  (1260-15 17  A.  U.).     Illus- 
trated.    New  York. 
Poole,  Stanley  Lane.     The  Mohammedan  Dynasties.     2  charts.     London. 

(Chronological  and  genealogical  tables  of  the  118  dynasties  of  Khalidsand 

Princes  of  Islam  from  founding  of  Caliphate   (seventh   century),  with  brief 

history.     Introductions  and  indices.) 
De  Leon.     Egypt  under  its  Khedives :  or.  The  Old  House  of  Bondage  under  New 

Masters,     pp.  243 ;  illustrated.     London. 
Brugsch-Bey,  Dr.     Egypt  under  the  Pharaohs.     Translated  by  Mary  Broderick. 

Maps   and    illustrations.     New   York.     Authority  derived    entirely  from    the 

monuments.     Brings  together  the  results  of  modern  research. 
MiLNER,  Alfred.     England  in  Egypt.     New  edition,     pp.448,     i  map.     London 

and  New  York.     (The  best  book,  perhaps,  on  the  international  status  and  the 

political,  judicial,  economic  and  industrial  aspect  of  Egypt  to-day.) 
DeLanoye,  E.      Egypt  Thirty-three  Hundred  Years  Ago  ;   or,  Rameses  the  Great. 

Illustrated.     New  York  (Scribner). 
Mariette  Bey.     Monuments  of  Upper  Egypt. 
Maspero,  Prof.  G.     Egyptian  Archicology.     Translated,  with  notes,  by  Amelia  B. 

Edwards.     299  illustrations.     London  and  New  York.      (Civil,  military  and 

religious  architecture  ;  tombs,  painting,  sculpture,  industrial  arts.) 
D'AvENNES,   E.   Prlsse.      L'Art   Egyptien.     2   vols.      (Collection   de   116   planches 

noires  et  coloriees — large,  magnificent  colored  plates.)     Paris,  1879. 
Goodyear    W.  H.     Grammar  of  the  Lotus.     History  of  classic  ornament  as  devel- 
opment of  sun-worship. 
Petrie,  VV.  M.  F.     Egyptian  Decorative  Art.     New  York  (Putnam),  1895. 
Rosellini.   Ippolito    (N.    F.    I.    B.).      (A    most   important  authority;    nearly  400 

plates,  many  of  which  are  colored  after  the  original  frescoes.     It  will  be  found 

in  the  large  libraries.) 
Petkie,  W.  M.  Flinders.     Ten  Years  Digging  in  Egypt  (1881-1891).     Illustrated. 

New  York. 
Poole,  Stanley  Lale.     Cairo :    Sketches  of  Its  History,   Monuments  and  Social 

Life.     Profusely  illustrated.     8vo.     London  (Virtue),  1892. 
Ball,   E.  A.   Reynolds.      Cairo  of  To-day.      London  (Black),    1898.      (Includes 

bibliography  of  recent  popular  works  on  Egypt.) 
Day,  St.  J.  V.     The  Great  Pyramid.     Illustrated.     Edinburgh,  1869. 
Mariette,  A.     The  Monuments  of  Upper  Egypt.     Translated.     London. 
Moldenke,  Charles  E.     The  New  York  Obelisk:    Cleopatra's  Needle.     With  a 

preliminary  sketch  of  its  history,  erection  of  and  uses  of  obelisks. 
Penfield,  Frederic  Courtland  (U.  S.  Diplomatic  Agent  and  Consul-General  to 

Egypt).     Present  Day  Egypt.     (Century  Company)  New  York. 
Perring,  J.  S.     Pyramids  of  Gizeh.     With   notes  by   Andrews.     3  plates.     Maps. 

56  folding  plates.     London. 
Petrie,  W.  M.  PYiNDERS.     The  Pyramids  and  Temples  of  Gizeh.     Plates.     London. 
Proctor,  R.  A.     The  Great  Pyramid,  Observatory,  Tomb  and  Temple.     Illustrated. 

London. 
Weisse,     Obelisk  and  Free-masonry. 
Cooper,  W.  R.     History  of  Egyptian  Obelisks.     Translated  from  Hieroglyphics. 

London. 
Chennells,  Miss  E.     Recollections  of  an  Egyptian  Princess.     3  parts.     London. 

(Account  of  five  years'  residence  at  Court  of  Ismael  Pasha,  Khedive  of 

Egypt;  gives  a  vivid  conception  of  Egyptian  society  and  harem  life  during 

Ismael's  regime.     Miss  Chennells  was  governess  to  his  daughter,  Zeynah.) 
De  Lesseps,  F.     History  of  the  Suez  Canal.     A  personal  narraiive. 
Bell,  C.  F.  Moberly.     From  Pharaoh  to  Lellah.     Well  illustrated. 
Petrie,  W.  M.  Flinders.       Historical    Scarabs.      Illustrated.      (Chronologically 

arranged.)     14  pp.  text  and  64  plates.     2363  figures. 
Sandwith,  Dr.  F.  M.     Egypt  as  a  Winter  Resort.     London  (Paul),  1889.     (Full  of 

information.) 
Walker,  Dr.  A.  D.     Egypt  as  a  Health  Resort,  with  Hints  for  Travelers  in  Syria 

London,  1873. 


Egypt:  Bibliography  J 25 

Periodicals 

Alexandria,  Destruction  of  the  Library  of.     (F.  J.  Taggart)  Nation,  vol.  67,  p.  1 1 

(July  7,  1898). 
Castle  of  Pharos,  Alexandria.     (H.C.   Kay)  American  A  re  A  i/eci  (Boston),  vol.   12, 

p.  lOI. 
A  Walk   in   Alexandria.     (A.  E.  P.  R.   Downing)   Living;  Age  (Boston),   vol.    198, 

p.  177. 
Donkey  Boys  at  Cairo.     All  the  Year  Round,  vol.  9,  p.  199. 
Egypt  Five  Thousand  Years  Ago.     Living  Age,  vol.  201,  p.  190. 
Harnessing  the  Nile.     (F.  C.  Penfield)  Century,  vol.  57,  p.  483  (February,  1899). 
The  Papyrus  Plant.     (George  Ebers)  Cosmopolitan,  vol.  15,  p.  677  (October,  1893). 
Some  Tricks  of  Ancient  Temples.     (H.   R.   Evans)    Cosmopolitan,  vol.   26,  p.  652 

(April,  1899).     (Illustrated  by  Dan  Beard.) 
Sketches  in  Egypt.    (C.  D.  Gibson)  McClure's  Magazine,  vol.  12,  p.  409  (March,  1899). 
Afloat  on  the  Nile.     (E.  H.  and  E.  W.  Blashfield)  Scrihners  Monthly,  vol.  19,  p.  663. 
Irrigation  and  Land  Redemption  in  Egypt.     (C.  A.  Siegfried)  Nation  (New  York), 

vol.  49,  p.  40. 
Nilometer  in  the  Isle  of  Elephantine.     Illustrated  London  News,  vol.  85,  p.  404  (1884). 
The  Modern  Nile.     (E.  L.  Wilson)  Scribner's  Magazine,  vol.  2,  p.  259. 
The  Nile  Valley.     (C.  W.  Dilko)  Living  Age,  vol.  219,  p.  657  (December  3,  1898). 
The  Nilometer  at  Cairo.      The  Builder,  vol.  17,  pp.  255-274. 
Obelisks:  Their  Purpose,  Material  and  Position.      The  Builder,  vol.  36,  p.  576. 
Construction  of  the  Pyramids  :   Egyptian  Architecture  and  Travel.      'The  Press  (Phila- 
delphia), September  11,  18S4. 
Who  Built  the  Pyramids  and  When.     Blackwood's  Magazine,  vol.  94,  p.  347  ;  Living 

Age.  vol.  79,  p.  3. 
The  Oldest  Record  of  Christ's  Life.     (The  find  in  Egypt.)     (Bernard  P.  Grenfell) 

McClure's  Magazine,  vol.  p.  102  (October,  1897). 
Great  Pyramids  of  Egypt.     (B.  I.  Wheeler)  Century,  vo'.  34,  p.  187  (May,  1898). 
The  Great  Pyramid  of  Gizeh.      The  Builder,  vol.  37,  p.  264. 
The  Romance  of  the  Great  Canal.     (G.  T.  Ferris)   Cosmopolitan,   vol.    16  (No.   6). 

April,  1894. 
Mosques  and  Architecture  at  Cairo,     American  Architect,  vol.  5,  p.  158. 
Petrified  Forests  of  Cairo.     Chamber's  Edinourgh  Journal,  vol.  11,  p.  359. 
Pyramids  of  Cairo.     Sharpe's  I^ondon  Magazine,  vol.  49,  p.  153. 
Tombs  at  Cairo.      The  Builder,  vol.  44,  p.  189. 
From  Cairo  to  Cataract.     (Sir  G.  Newnes)  Strand,  vol.  15,  p.  305  (March,  1898). 

Fiction 

Uarda :  A  Romance  of  Ancient  Egypt.     (Fourteenth  century  B.  C.)     George  Ebers. 

Egyptian  Tales.     W.  M.  Flinders  Petrie. 

An  Egyptian  Princess.     (Sixth  Century  B.  C.)     George  Ebers. 

Emperor;  (also)  Sisters.     (Both  of  second  century.)     George  Ebers. 

Bride  of  the  Nile;  Cleopatria  ;  Horn  Sum  ;  Daughter  of  an  Egyptian  King.     (Each 

separate.)     George  Ebers. 
Baker,  A.  J.     Court  Life  in  Egypt.     Illustrated.     London. 
Sergeant,  Adeline.     Beyond  Recall. 
Henty,  George  Alfred.     Chapter  of  Adventures  ;  or.  Through  the  Bombardment 

of  Alexandria. 
KiNGSLEY,  Charles.     Hypatia;  or,  New  Fields  with  Old  Faces. 
Ebers,  George.     Per  Aspera ;   Serapis. 
Murray,  Charles  A.     Hassan ;  or.  Child  of  the  Pyramids. 
Adams,  Wm.  Taylor  (Pseud,,  Oliver  Optic).     Up  and  Down  the  Nile;  or.  Young 

Adventurers  in  Africa. 


126 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


The  Land  of  the  Nile  and  the  Pharaohs — a  Lecture  on  Shipboard 

Ladies  and  Gentletnen : 

If  I  felt  myself  embarrassed  in  attempting  to  perform 

the  task  I  had  in  mind  before  we  reached  Gibrahar  and  the 
Alhambra,  much  more  so  do  I  feel  myself 
perplexed  now,  but  this  time  for  a  different 
reason.  The  subject  is  so  tremendously  full 
and  interesting-,  has  such  an  ancient  and 
historical,  as  well  as  modern  interest,  indeed, 
is  so  vast  that  I  might  talk  for  hours  on  a  score 
of  themes  suggested.  I  should  like  to  cover 
the  ground  at  least  slightly,  and  yet  even  to  do 
that  requires  a  power  of  condensation  and 
abridgment  beyond  my  capacity,  and,  indeed, 
I  can  well  believe  that  of  any  one  in  the 
time  allotted. 

I  cannot  hope  to  be  original,  I  cannot  hope 
to  include  all ;  I  shall,  therefore,  aim  rather  to 

stimulate  your 

interest,  your 
reading,  your 
observati  on 
and  revive  old 
information. 
Egypt  modern,  Egypt  past 

are  so  linked  together  by  every- 
where     present     monuments, 

tombs,  pyramids  and  remains, 

that  it  defies  human  ingenuity 

to  break  the  link.    I  cannot  talk 

of  the  present  without  touching 

upon  the  past,  and  I  shall  ask 

you  to  have  more  patience  than 

the  old  farmer  who  determined 

to    have    the    fastest    driving 

horse  in  his  county  and  went  to 

Kentucky  to  get  it.     He  was 

shown  over  a  long  stable  con- 
taining the  famous  sires  of  the 

past,  next  he  was  shown  over 


'Pompey's  Pillar 


PROGEIAM  FOR  EGYPT 

Baggage  :  One  steamer  trunk  allowed  to 
every  two  passengers  and  any  number  of 
valises.  Take  as  few  trunks  as  possible. 
Hand  your  shore  baggage  to  your  Stateroom- 
steward. 

Laundry  :  The  Nile  Section  No.  i  (who  go 
right  through  to  Nag  Hamadi  Febr.  25)  should 
give  their  laundry  to  their  stateroom  steward 
Thursday  evening,  and  it  will  be  done  at  Alex- 
andria and  found  in  their  room,  when  passen- 
gers return  to  the  ship.  All  other  passengers 
are  advised  to  take  their  laundry  to  Cairo  and 
have  it  done  at  the  Hotel. 

Friday,  February  25  :  Breakfast  6  a.  m. 
(second  sitting  6. 30).  Land  at  7  a.  m.  in 
small  boats  flying  the  American  flag,  drive  to 
Station  ;  train  leaves  9  am.  sharp,  arrive 
Cairo  12.30  noon.  (Nile  No.  i  will  be  in  rear 
cars,  which  are  switched  at  Cairo  and  run  as 
special  train  i  p.  m.  from  Cairo  to  Hamadi  10 
p.   m.,  where  they  sleep  on  steamers). 

Each  passenger  will  have  received  a  card 
from  Mr.  Clark  before  the  train  arrives  in  Cairo, 
giving  name.  Hotel  and  Room  Number  ;  then 
each  passenger  will  please  be  sure  and  take  the 
conveyance  of  the  Hotel,  to  which  he  is 
assigned. 

Nile  No.  2  leave  March  ist  for  Upper 
Egypt.  All  passengers  will  have  their  drive  at 
Alexandria,  before  embarking  for  Palestine. 

F.  C.   Clark. 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


J27 


the  young  colts,  from  which  great  things  were  expected  in  the 
future.  He  bore  this  as  long  as  he  could,  but  finally  he  broke 
out,  "  See  here,  stranger,  you  have  showed  me  all  the  old 
'  have-done's '  of  the  past,  and  the  '  going-to-do's '  of  the 
future,  but  what  I  am  after  to-day  is  an  'is-er'." 

A  talk  on  Egypt  cannot  be  an  "  is-er".  It  must  cover  the 
ground  in  some  way  or  other  of  the  "  have-done's  "  as  well,  and 
our  spirit  will  be  more  like  that  of  Paddy  and  Mike  who  when 
traveling  to    Boston,  in  brand  new  America,  came  upon  their 


"■Past  and  Present 


first  mile-stone.  Approaching  it  with  uncovered  head  Paddy 
exclaimed,  "  Tread  lightly,  Mike,  tin  miles  to  Bosting  lies 
buried  here." 

But  not  to  waste  time  in  preliminaries  let  me  break  at  once 
into  the  subject  by  pointing  out  that  hours  before  we  reach 
Alexandria  we  shall  see  the  long,  flat,  white  line  of  the  sandy 
shores  of  Egypt,  and  here  and  there,  by  means  of  glasses, 
groups  of  picturesque  palm  trees,  afterward  to  become  so 
familiar  to  us  along  the  Nile  valley. 

By  and  by  Pompey's  Pillar  will  appear,  that  famous  shaft 
of  red  granite,  104  feet  in  height  and  9  feet  in  diameter,  which 
once  stood  in  the  midst  of  the  great  Serapeum,  or  temple,  a 
building  only  equaled  in  ancient  times  by  the  great  Capitol  at 
Rome.  Here,  too,  will  be  seen  the  Pharos,  or  lighthouse, 
which  stood  unrepaired  for  actually  one  thousand  three  hundred 
and  odd  years. 


128 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


As  we  approach  Alexandria,  that  city  of  Egypt  in  Africa, 
we  may  reflect  that  we  are  about  to  land  in  a  country  that  has 
been  called  "the  cradle  of  history  and  of  human  culture,  and  of 
which  the  old  historian,  Herodotus,  declared  that  it  contained 
more  wonders  than  any  other  land,  and  was  prominent,  above 
all  other  countries  of  the  world,  for  works  that  one  can  hardly 
describe." 


"Past  oldest  works  of  human  hands.  Itself  more  ancient  still— The  Nile  ' 


General  Grant,  after  his  tour  around  the  world,  said  to 
Andrew  D.  White,  ex-President  of  Cornell  University,  "  After 
Egypt  there  is  nothing."  We  are  about  to  enter  the  land  of 
the  Pharaohs  and  the  Ptolemies  at  the  port  and  city  founded 
by  Alexander  the  Great.  The  antiquity,  the  historical  richness 
of  the  land  and  its  association  with  Biblical  literature  must  fill 
the  minds  of  thoughtful  persons  with  deepest  emotion. 

P2gypt,  as  you  know,  has  been  the  object  of  interest  for  the 
civilized  world  in  all  ages.     It  has  played  such  an  important 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


129 


i 


t    t  J 


part  in  the  history  of  the  world  that  invohintarily  we  are  apt  to 
consider  the  country  as  one  of  considerable  size,  yet  it  is  a 
small  State,  for  notwithstanding  its  length  of  five  hundred  and 
seventy  miles,  it  only  contains  about  twelve  thousand  five  hun- 
dred square  miles,  and  is,  therefore,  somewhat  smaller  than 
lielgium.  But  this  narrow  strip  of  Nile  Valley  "contains 
innumerable  cities  and  towns  renowned  for  discoveries  in  art 
and  science." 

Egypt  was  the  world's  university, 
where  Moses  and  Pythagoras  and 
Herodotus  and  Plato  and  many  other 
philosophers  went  to  school.  The 
Greeks,  who  from  the  seventh  century 
before  Christ  were  frequent  visitors  to 
the  Nile  valley,  marvelled  to  find  there  a 
civilization,  which,  though  more  ancient, 
was,  indeed,  the  equal  of  their  own. 
They  saw  to  their  astonishment  power- 
ful and  populous  towns,  strange,  gigantic 
temples  and  a  people  who  in  nowise  re- 
sembled the  inhabitants  of  Ionia  and  the 
Greek  islands. 

The  Egyptians  appeared  to  the 
educated  Greeks,  who  really  tried  to 
understand  this  ancient  people,  strange 
and  incomprehensible. 

Says  Erman:  "The  Egyptians  were 
a  subject  for  cheap  wit  to  the  Greeks. 
They  made  jokes  aboiat  their  worshiping 
oxen  instead  of  sacrificing  them,  reverincr 
eels  instead  of  eating  them,  and  mourn- 
ing for  dead  cats  instead  of  skinnino 
them.  Yet,  in  spite  of  their  mockery, 
they  had  a  feeling  of  respect  for  a 
people,  who  with  their  ancient  civiliza- 
tion looked  upon  the  Greeks  as  children  : 
but  because  the  Greeks  thought  it  pos- 
sible that  the  old  bald-headed  priests  of 
Egypt  possessed  a  secret  wisdom 
unknown      to      the     ordinary     human 


130 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


understanding  they  cultivated  their  acquaintance.  Many  a 
Greek  scholar  made  the  pilgrimage  to  the  Nile  valley  in  the 
hope  that  these  priests  might  help  to  solve  the  great  riddle  of 
existence.  We  now  know  that  these  mysteries  had  no  deep 
signification,  and  that  the  Greek  philosopher  was  of  far  higher 
mental  standing  than  the  Egyptian  priest.  The  Greeks,  how- 
ever, never  really  understood  this,  and  so  the  reverence  for  old 
Egypt  increased  as  centuries  passed  by,  their  gods  were 
admitted  to  the  circle  of  Olympian  gods,  and  the  faith  of  the 
Greeks  and  Romans  in  the  unknown  wisdom  of  the  Egyptians 
lasted  for    seventeen  centuries." 

We  come  in  touch  with  Egyptian  history  constantly  in  our 
Bible  reading,  as  we  study  of  Abraham,  of  Jacob,   of  Joseph, 


The  Army  of  Occupation  at  the  Step  Pyramid 


of  Moses  ;  and  undoubtedly  many  of  the   ideas   and  historical 
facts  recorded  in  the  Bible  have  their  origin  in  this  old  land. 

It  is  marvelous  to  learn  that  the  Egyptians  knew  so  many 
things  we  regard  as  of  modern  origin.  They  knew  the  length 
of  the  year,  the  form  of  the  earth,  calculated  the  eclipses  of  the 
sun  and  moon,  were  partially  acquainted  with  geometry,  music, 
chemistry,  medicine,  anatomy,  agriculture,  mining,  survey- 
ing, excavating,  etc.  "  In  architecture,  in  the  qualities  of 
grandeur  and  massive  proportions  they  are  yet  to  be  sur- 
passed. The  largest  buildings  anywhere  erected  by  man  to- 
day are  even  as  they  were  in  the  past  smaller  than  the  pyramids, 
while  the  pyramids  have  the  additional  interest  of  being  the 
oldest  human  works  in  the  world.  Fortunately  no  nations  have 
ever   equalled  the    Egyptians  in    their  love    for  recording  all 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile  13  J 

human  events.  No  other  human  records  go  back  so  far.  Genuine 
Egyptian  writing  has  been  found  400  B.  C.  Because  they  were 
so  fond  of  recording  everything  both  in  pictures  and  in  writing, 
because  they  were  fond  of  building  and  excavating  temples  and 
tombs  in  the  imperishable  granite,  because  of  the  dryness  of 
the  air  in  preserving  all  these  records,  we  have  had  stored  away 
for  us  here,  forty-five  centuries  of  habits,  opinions,  deeds  and 
most  wonderful  of  all,  the  actual  bodies  of  men.  For  cen- 
turies the  dry  air  and  the  sand  have  preserved  to  us  even  such 
delicate  objects  as  clothes  and  papyrus  rolls.  Under  the  influ- 
ence of  their  strange  religious  conceptions,  the  Egyptians  paid 
particular  regard  to  the  lasting  character  and  rich  adornment 
of  their  tombs.  While  most  people,  of  similar  standing  and 
civilization,  have  been  content  with  perishable  graves,  the 
Egyptians  prepared  for  their  mummies  vast  enduring  monu- 
ments, the  rich  decoration  of  which 
gives  us  full  details  of  their  manner 
of  life." 

Three  sources  of  information 
are  open  to  the  student  of  Egypt : 

First. — The  monuments,  the 
temples,  the  tombs,  with  their  end- 
less      series        of       inscriptions        and  Entrance  to  the  so-calUd  Tomb  of  R^meses  U 

pictures  ;  the  papyrus  rolls  from  the 

old  libraries,  and  numerous  objects  of  daily  life  buried  with  the 
mummies.  Second. — The  Hebrew  books  giving  us  the  stories 
of  Moses  and  Joseph,  and  relating  much  of  Egyptian  life. 
Third. — The  accounts  given  by  Greek  travelers.  Perhaps  there 
is  another  source  of  information,  and  one  frequently  used,  namely, 
guessing,  which  comes  as  near  the  truth  as  did  Tommy  when 
asked  who  Joan  of  Arc  was,  and  replied  promptly,  Noah's  ivife. 

The  tombs  and  monuments  have  been  investigated,  and  are 
being  investigated  to-day  by  eager  and  competent  students, 
excavators  and  scientists,  and  so  one  need  never  be  surprised 
at  any  great  and  remarkable  discovery  in  Egypt,  for  modern 
history  has  been  full  of  them. 

For  nearly  fourteen  centuries,  however,  the  writing  of  the 
ancient  Egyptians  was  an  enigma  and  a  puzzle  to  scholars,  but 
about  1800  came  the  finding  of  the  celebrated  Rosetta  stone, 
now  in  the  British  Museum  in  London. 


-«i 


}32 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


French  officers  of  artillery  discovered  at  Rosetta,  one  of 
the  mouths  of  the  Nile,  a  stone  inscription  relating  to  Ptolemy 
the  Fifth,  and  written  in  three  languages  :  First  in  the  old  hiero- 
glyphic characters  of  the  priests,  second  in  the  demotic  lan- 
guage, or  that  of  the  common  people  of  ancient  Egypt,  and 
finally  in  the  Greek. 

The  inscription  was  dated  some  two  hundred  years  before 
Christ.  The  whole  account  of  the  unraveling  of  the  mystery, 
by  taking  the  names  of  the  kings  in  the  cartouches  or  round 
circles  on  the  three  inscriptions  and  comparing  them,  letter  by 
letter,  is  intensely  interesting. 


the  Vharaohs  of  the  Bondage  and  the  Exodus 

This  study  and  comparison  disclosed  the  fact  that  a  bird 
signified  the  letter  A,  that  a  lion  indicated  the  letter  L,  that  a 
square  was  P,  that  a  loop  was  O,  etc.,  until  the  whole  hiero- 
glyphic alphabet  was  unfolded. 

Imagine  interpreting  a  language  which  had  been  dead, 
buried,  hidden  for  1400  years,  and  of  which  there  were  the 
greatest  number  of  specimens  everywhere,  which  manifestly 
were  intended  to  throw  light  on  an  old  and  interesting  civiliza- 
tion, and  you  will  understand,  my  friends,  the  intense  interest 
and  excitement  aroused  among  scholars  and  curious  scientists 
upon  the  discovery  of  the  Rosetta  stone. 

This  stone  may  be  seen,  by  those  who  visit  London,  in  the 
British  Museum.  Then  came,  in  1881,  the  discovery  at  Luxor 
of  the  mummies  of  Seti  the  First  and  Rameses  the  Second,  the 
monarchs  of  the  oppression  and  the  Exodus   of  the  Israelites. 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


J  33 


The  unwrapping  of  these  mummies  with  their  different  inscrip- 
tions was  an  event  of  astonishing  and  unparalleled  interest.  It 
enlightened  at  least  thirty  centuries  of  Egyptian  civilization. 
"  Nothing  in  history,"  .says  a  distinguished  member  of  our  party, 
who  has  written  the  best  popular  account  of  this  great  event  in 
his  book  entitled  "  The  Pharaohs  of  the  Bondage  and  the  Exo- 
dus,"— "  Nothing  in  history,"  says  Dr.  Robinson,  "parallels  the 
dramatic  enthusiasm  of  this  last  discovery."  And  now  we  can 
look  down  in  the  Boulak  Museum  at  Cairo  upon  the  actual  bodies 


"  She  hath  the  ivhole  horizon  for  a  hoop  "—Vope 

of  the  kings  who  slew  thousands  of  little  children  forno  reason 
except  being  born,  who  kept  Israel  under  desperate  burdens  of 
brickmaking  and  carrying  and  building  until  the  nation  groaned 
in  irrepressible  agony  under  these  cruel  taskmasters. 

Then  the  explorations  of  Mariette  Bey  and  others  at  Mem- 
phis and  elsewhere  during  late  years  uncovering  absolutely 
acres  of  tomb  inscriptions,  have  all  gone  to  confirm  the  wonder- 
ful story  of  Egypt's  long  history  and  civilization. 

But  says  Erman,  "  Now  that  we  have  learned  to  under- 
stand the  monuments,  to  read  the  inscriptions,  to  study  the 
literature  of  ancient  Egypt,  the  old  glamour  has  in  a  measure 
departed.     In  place  of  the  dim  religious  light  of  past  times  the 


J34  Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 

pitiless  sun  of  science  has  risen  and  we  see  the  old  Egyptians 
as  they  really  were,  no  better  nor  worse  thin  other  folks. 
Their  old  wisdom  appears  in  some  respects  as  wonderful,  in 
others  it  grows  even  repulsive,  while  their  customs  are  not  more 
peculiar  than  those  of  other  nations,  and  merit  neither  our 
ridicule  nor  our  reverence."  But  one  word  more  about  Alexan- 
dria, our  landing  place.  The  first  thought  of  many  a  reader 
and  student,  as  we  land  at  Alexandria,  will  be  of  the  superb 
library  formerly  here,  and  said  to  contain  so  many  precious 
manuscripts  which  would  undoubtedly  have  revealed  to  us 
something  of  those  old  Accadian  races  of  whom  we  long  so  much 


myo^: 

r--^^     ^ 

» 

4 
1^- 

^^JtoitfV^^^LJ^^I^    _i 

i^' 

•I-- 

^I^VW^TH 

m^^m^^^j'k. 

w       >> 

^■w^^iira 

»Pr^^ 

i 

^■KJI^  .JJ^mi 

1  iM'^r-^-  ~^'   T. 

^A.  .  .'^^^^•^tmm     ■'  i\n>.MM 

^^^^^^■VHB        '^^^K    ^HV  ^^^^1 

■Lj'ilrw^— S  i^^^^lr^bMB 

t;^_        "^^'^^^^^fmJf^tX  ^^  ^H 

^^^*^    "^^J^****^*^"'- 

IP^ '    ,f*iy*33§iit"-^"'    .^1 

W*^'»      If^^^^'^^f'''^^ 

J|  ■*,_  •  *-' ''  -^^^^ffif^fttfc    ■•n 

IV             1 

Father  Nile 


to  know.  But  all  these  manuscripts  were  burned  and  destroyed, 
we  are  told,  by  abominable  Turks,  Moslems,  and  alas  Christians, 
seven  hundred  thousand  precious  manuscripts  used  for  months, 
it  is  said,  in  heating  the  baths  of  the  Arab  conquerors.  To 
this  great  library  came  learned  men  from  all  over  the  world 
to  read  and  study  and  copy  these  precious  records.  Here 
lived  many  of  the  Grecian  philosophers  and  held  their  schools  ; 
here,  too,  was  produced  three  hundred  years  before  Christ  the 
Greek  version  of  the  Old  Testament  by  the  seventy  learned 
men  and  therefore  called  the  Septuagint. 

Here  lived  Strabo  the  celebrated  geographer,  and  Archi- 
medes the  mechanician,  and  Euclid  the  founder  of  geometry, 
not  to  mention  many  other  famous  names.  F"rom  here  came 
the  famous  Cleopatra  needles,  one  of  which  was  taken  to  Lon- 
don by  the  British,  after  having  been  encased  in  an  iron  cylinder 
and  rolled  into   the  sea,  and  fitted  up  with  a  rudder  and  deck 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


135 


I 


house  and  cabin,  and  named  the  Cleopatra.  Taken  in  tow  by  a 
steamer  it  was  abandoned  once  in  the  bay  of  Biscay,  but  finally 
it  was  recaptured  and  erected  in  London  in  1872. 

The  companion  needle,  as  no  doubt  some  of  you  will 
remember,  was  presented  to  the  government  of  the  United 
States  and  erected  in  Central  Park  in  188  r,  so  that  now  we  may 
see  in  our  modern  America  this  huge  monolith  of  graceful  pro- 
portion, carved  full  of  hieroglyphics,  made  by  the  hands  of  men 
thousands  of  years  ago. 

Notice  the 
magnificent  stone 
piers  as  we  land  at 
Alexandria  and  in- 
deed the  ocean 
front  of  many  ports 
we  will  enter.  This 
characteristic  of 
European  ports  puts  us  to 
shame  when  we  remember  our  shabby 
platforms  of  rotting  timbers  at  home. 

If,  however,  you  should  happen 
to  see  among  the  masts  of  this  har- 
bor the  glorious   red,  white  and 

blue  of  our  national  flag  floating 

in  the  breeze,  as  we  did  in  1895,     ' 

all  comparisons  will    be    odious 

and    a    thrill    of  patriotism   and    a 

shout  of  joy  will    arise  which  will 

show  how    deep    is     the    love    for 

"Old  Glory",  and  you  will  appre- 
ciate the  reply  of  an  Ameri-      f 

can     captain     to     a     young 

Englishman,  when    he    said 

to  him,  "I  say,  captain,  that 

flag  of  yours  has  not  floated 

in    every    breeze,  and    over 

every    sea    for   a     thousand 

years,     has    it?"       "No,    it 

ain't,"  said  the  captain,  "but 

it  has  licked  one  that  has." 

"still  through  Egypt's  desert  places  flolvs  the  lordly  Nile' 


136 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


cMarket  Place  by  Nik  Bridge 

But  Alexandria  is  only  an  introduction  to  Egypt.  And  the 
ride  up  the  Nile  in  the  English  compartment  cars  with  petti- 
coated  watchmen  and  track  walkers  in  evidence  is  curious  and 
interesting.  Notice  the  camels,  the  donkeys,  the  buffalo  cows 
grazing  along  the  way,  the  irrigating  shadoofs  and  sakeiyahs, 
groaning  and  shrieking,  the  strings  of  camels  tied  together  and 
led  by  diminutive  donkeys,  indeed  one  could  call  off  a  whole 
catalogue  of  curious  and  unique  objects  which  must  not  be 
missed. 

Reflect  too  that  you  are  going  up  a  river  4000  miles  in 
length  and  throughout  nearly  the  whole  of  its  course  navigable. 
Think  of  going  to  San  Francisco  and  half  way  back  again  by 
water.  A  river  too  whose  history  as  to  its  source  had  been 
hid  for  nearly  2000  years,  until  Stanley,  our  own  countryman, 
discovered  it. 


Alexanciria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


iZl 


The  Egyptians  thought  the  river  to  be  a  deity,  and  we 
have  a  reminiscence  of  this  in  the  marble  figure  of  the  Nile  god 
or  Father  Nile  in  the  Vatican  gallery  in  Rome.  This  figure  is 
surrounded  by  sixteen  children,  indicating  that  formerly  sixteen 
cubits'  rise  in  the  Nile  was  thought  sufficient  to  cover  the  valley 
and  insure  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  One  cubit  more,  strange 
enough,  meant  terrible  devastation  and  flood  in  all  the  great 
Delta  district,  while  two  degrees  less  meant  drouth  and  terrible 
famine,  and  this  well  illustrates  Herodotus'  remark  that  "  Egypt 
is  the  gift  of  the  Nile." 

The  record  of  the  rise  and  fall  of  the  Nile  is  kept  in  Cairo 
by  what  is  called  the  Nilometer,  said  to  be  over  a  thousand 
years  old. 

You  will  see  this  stone  chamber  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile 
with  its  graduated  pillar  rising  from  bottom  to  top,  and  you  will 
not  be  surprised  when  told  that  before  the  rise  of  the  Nile,  as  on  a 
Christmas  or  New  Year's  night  with  us,  people  spend  the  whole 
night  on  the  banks  of  the  river,  practicing  all  manner  of  super- 
stitious rites  and  watching  for  the  bounteous  overflow.  The 
river  begins  to  rise  about  the  first  of  June  slowly,  then  rapidly  from 


In  Clover 

the  15th  to  the  20th  of  July  until 
the  end  of  September,  and  then  in 
October  it  rises  again  and  attains 
its  highest  overflow. 


t38  Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 

In  other  words,  during  our  hot  months  the  Nile  is  contin- 
ually rising,  then  it  gradually  subsides  until  in  January,  Febru- 
ary and  March  the  fields  are  dried  up  and  cultivatable  from  that 
on  until  the  first  of  June  again. 

From  Khartoum,  where  the  gallant  General  Gordon  was 
massacred  on  the  26th  of  January,  1885,  all  the  way  to  the 
Mediterranean  sea,  1620  miles,  the  Nile  is  without  a  sincrle 
tributary,  and  this  f.icr,  the  great  naturalist,  Humboldt,  declared 
to  be  without  parallel.  Through  all  this  distance  it  flows  through 
the  midst  of  a  thirsty  desert  land,  giving  fertility  and  joy. 

So  fertile  is  the  soil  from  the  annual  deposits  of  the  Nile 
(four  feet  in  a  thousand  years,  it  is  computed),  that  it  is  said 
melons,  cucumbers  and  like  growths  increase  almost  at  the  rate 
of  an  inch  per  hour. 

We  are  visiting  Egypt  at  the  best  possible  season  of  the 
jear.  In  the  summer  the  thermometer  rises  to  1 10  degrees  in 
the  shade.  From  the  fertility  of  the  Egyptian  soil  one  might 
expect  a  rich  variety,  but  notwithstanding  the  luxuriant  vegeta- 
tion no  country  in  the  same  latitude  has  so  poor  a  variety  of 
plants.  There  are  few  trees,  growing  in  an  isolated  fashion, 
date-palms  and  fig-trees,  but  nothing  outside  of  this,  and  the 
scarcity  of  wood  is  one  of  the  calamities  of  Egypt. 

Herbs  and  vegetables  reign  supreme  ;  wild  flowers  are 
nowhere  to  be  found.  Says  Klunzinger,  who  knows  Egypt 
thoroughly  :  "  In  this  country,  wherever  a  spot  exists  where 
wild  plants  can  grow,  the  agriculturist  comes,  sows  his  seed  and 
weeds  out  the  wild  flowers.  There  are  no  meadows  such  as  charm 
the  eye  in  other  countries,  though  the  clover-fields  which  serve 
for  pasture,  and  the  cornfields  as  long  as  they  are  green,  com- 
pensate to  some  extent." 

I  think  most  travelers  will  agree  with  me  that  the  aspect 
of  Egypt  is  pleasant,  though  monotonous  ;  the  gleaming  water 
of  the  broad  river  flowing  peacefully  through  the  emerald  green 
fields  intersects  the  land  and  makes  the  levels  look  very  much 
like  a  rich,  well  cultivated  plain  of  America,  so  that  one  can 
hardly  realize  that  he  is  on  African  soil  and  on  the  banks  of  a 
river  flowing  from  the  heart  of  the  tropics. 

As  we  drive  over  to  the  pyramids  and  ride  across  the  valley 
to  Memphis  the  air  will  be  filled  with  the  odor  of  clover  and  the 
various  growing  plants,  and  there  will  be  the  hum  of  insects  and 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


139 


the  song  of  birds  in  die  air,  wliile  the 
papers  may  be  telling  us  of  great 
snow-storms  and  blizzards  and  snow- 
drifts in  America. 

The  irrigating  system  is  very 
interestincT  and  is  the  residt  of  cen- 
turies  of  experience,  Notice  carefully 
the  two  methods  of  raising  the  water. 
The  old-fashioned  well-sweep  arrange- 
ment called  a  Shadoof  is  operated  by 
half  naked  Egyptians  who  sing  monot- 
onous songs  as  they  lift  up  the  huge 
basketfiils  of  water  and  pour  them  into 
the  irrii^atinof  ditches.  The  second 
arrangement,     called 


The  Shadoof 


a      Sakeiyah, 

worked  by  animal  power,  consists  of  a 
huge  wheel  in  a  horizontal  position,  to 
which  are  fastened  rough  pottery  jars, 
the  whole  turned  by  buffalo  cows  or 
donkeys  or  mules,  walking  round  and 
round,  fastened  as  in  our  threshing- 
machine  arrano-ement  at  home.  The 
machines  are  never  oiled,  and  the  shrieks  and  groans  and  moans 
emitted  are  terrifying,  although  to  the  natives  the  sound  may 
be  like  music,  because  it  means  refreshing  water  to  his  crops. 


sakeiyah 


The  Ddncing  Girls 


140 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


cA.  Shadoof 

Cairo  is  the  most  interesting  city  in  the  world.  It  is  in 
Egypt,  it  is  in  Africa,  and  we  may  reflect  that  it  was  founded 
over  six  hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era,  in  the  time  ot 
the  conquest  of  Egypt  by  Cambyses,  the  Persian.  It  is  eleven 
miles  square,  is  the  seat  of  the  Khedive,  the  ruler  of  Egypt, 
under  the  Sultan  of  Turkey  and  the  protectorship  of  England, 
and  has  something  over  400,000  inhabitants. 

Says  a  traveler :  "  What  makes  Cairo  so  romantic  and 
novel  is  the  contrast  of  the  barbarous  and  civilized  scenes  and 
incidents  it  presents."  It  is  a  museum  of  all  imaginable  and 
unimaginable  phases  of  existence,  of  refinement,  of  degeneracy, 
of  civilization  and  barbarism,  of  paganism,  of  Christianity,  of 
Mohammedanism. 

The  Jewish  physician  in  the  play  of  the  "Hunchback" 
declared,  "He  who  hath  not  seen  Cairo  hath  not  seen  the 
world  ;  its  soil  is  gold  ;  its  Nile  is  a  wonder  ;  its  women  are 
like  the  black-eyed  virgin  of  Paradise  and  its  houses  are  palaces 
and  its  air  is  temperate." 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


HI 


A  Lemonade  Vender 


.  Says  Miss  Edwards  in  her  admirable  book, 
"A  Thousand  Miles  Up  the  Nile,"  "Every  shop 
front,  every  street  corner,  every  turbaned  group  is 
a  ready-made  picture.  The  old  Turk  who  sets  up 
his  cake  stall  in  the  recess  of  a  sculptured  doorway  : 
the  donkey  boy  with  his  gaily  caparisoned 
donkey  waiting  for  customers  ;  the  beggar 
asleep  on  the  steps  of  the  mosque  ;  the 
veiled  woman  filling  her  water  jar  at  the 
public  fountain,  all  look  as  if  they  had  been 
put  there  expressly  to  be  painted." 
The  narrow  streets  and  houses  from  which 
jut  windows  of  delicate  turned  lattice  work  in 
old  brown  wood,  like  big  bird  cages.  The 
streets  filled  with  bazaars  sometimes  cov- 
ered with  rafters  and  matting  through 
which  dusty  sunbeams  straggle  here  and 
there,  casting  patches  of  light  upon  the 
moving  crowd. 

The  unpaved  thoroughfares,  full  of 
ruts  and  watered  profusely  twice  or  three 
times  a  day  and  lined  with  little  wooden 

shop  fronts  like  open  cabinets  full  of 
shelves  where  the  merchants  sit  cross- 
legged    in    the    midst   of  the  goods. 

The  ebbing,  flowing,  restless  tide  of 
people,  half  European,  half  oriental. 
Syrian  dragomans  with  baggy  trousers 
and  braided  jackets  ;  barefooted  Egyptian 
Fellaheen  in  ragged  blue  shirts  and  felt 
skull  caps  ;  Greeks  in  absurdly  stiff  white 
tunics  like  walking  pen  wipers  ;  Persians 
with  high  miter-like  caps,  of  dark  woven 
stuff;  swarthy  Bedouins 


Woman  •uiith  Yashmak 


'Package  [?)  Carrier 


in  flowing  garments 
creamy-white  with  choc- 
olate stripes  a  foot  wide 
and  head  shawls  of  the 
same  bound  about  the 
brow    with    a    fillet    of 


(^^ 


Water  Carriers 


H2 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


o4  Street  in  Cairo 


twisted  camel's  hair  ;  native  women  of  tlie  poorer  classes  in  black 
veils  that  leave  only  the  eyes  uncovered  and  long  trailing  gar- 
ments of  dark  blue  and  black  striped  cotton  ;  mounted  Janissaries 
with  jingling  sabers  and  gold  embroidered  jackets  ;  merchants, 
beggars,  soldiers,  boatmen,  laborers,  workmen  in  every  variety 
of  costume  and  of  every  shade  of  complexion  from  fair  to  dark, 
to  tawny  to  copper  color,  from  deepest  bronze  to  bluest  black. 
Water  carriers  bending  under  the  weight  of  newly  replen- 
ished goat  or  pigskin,  the  legs  of  which  being  tied  up,  look 
horribly  bloated  and  lifelike.    Ladies  with  white  veils  and  naked 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


t43 


feet  with  velvet  slippers,  on  donkey  back,  using  with  effect 
liquid  eyes  of  black.  Egyptian  gentlemen  in  European  dress 
and  Turkish  I-'ez,"  a  most  picturesque  and  curious  and  fascinat- 
ing crowd  ; — all  this  and  more,  too,  you  will  see  in  Cairo. 

Notice  the  children  of  twelve  and  thirteen,  mere  girls 
carrying  about  their  own  children.  Dr.  Buckley,  knowing  that 
the  Egyptian  women  look  older  than  they  really  are,  ven- 
tured to  guess  the  ages  of  two  or  three  dancers.  He  placed 
the  oldest  at  35,  the  next  25,  and  the  others  20  and  17  ;  but 
the  eldest,  though  married  for  some  years  was  only  22  and  the 
youngest  1 1. 

The  dancing  dervishes,  too,  perhaps,  may  be  seen  at  this 
time,  but  their  actions  have  been  described.  Notice  the  dress 
of  the  young  men  :  white  skirts  or  vests  reaching  from  their 
necks  down  to  their  ankles  and  girt  about  the  middle  with 
sashes,  and  on  their  heads  the  red  fez.  Frequently,  too,  they 
may  be  seen  in  the  cool  of  the  evening  with  a  light  European 
overcoat  overtopping  this. 

Everywhere  may  be  seen  huge  water  jars  in  which  the 
people  familiarly  and  commonly  dip  a  shallow  cup  for  a  drink 
of  water,  and  the  careless  manner  in  which  it  is  done  by  the 
motley  crowd  explains  how  easily  plague  or  cholera  spreads 
among  such  people. 


Jugs  and  Jugglery 


m 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


The  Citadel  and  Alabaster  Mosqae 


The  fortress  or  citadel  of  Cairo,  located  on  the  highest 
ground  overlooking  the  city  and  the  Nile  valley,  is  a  landmark 
from  all  points  of  view.  It  was  within  this  citadel,  in  i8i  i,  that 
470  Mameluke  Beys,  the  finest  cavalry  in  the  world,  were 
treacherously  assassinated  by  Mohammed  AH,  after  being 
trapped  like  mad  dogs  between  the  two  huge  gates  of  the 
citadel. 

Along  the  walls  you  will  be  shown  the  marks  of  the  bullets 
of  the  Sultan's  soldiers  at  the  time  of  the  slaughter. 

This  citadel  itself  was  built  in  1166  by  Saladin,  of 
stone  taken  from  the  outer  coating  of  the  small  pyramids 
of  Gizeh.     It  is  the  key  to  the  system  of  fortification  for  the 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


145 


protection  of  Cairo,  and  the  English,  with  their  usual  intelli- 
gence and  eye  to  the  best  position,  hold  it  as  they  do  Gibraltar 
as  a  sort  of  grand  army  police  station.  A  magnificent  view  is 
obtained  from  the  parapet  around  the  mosque  of  Mohammed 
Ali,  the  alabaster  mosque,  which  stands  in  the  centre  of  the 
citadel. 


Entrance  to  the  Cttadd 


Notice  from  this  place  the  beginning  of  the  Delta,  the  pyra- 
mids of  Sakkara,  the  windings  of  the  Nile,  with  its  green  ribbon 
strips  of  verdure  on  either  side,  the  pyramids  of  Gizeh,  the 
green  valley  dotted  with  mud  villages  and  intersected  by 
canals,  the  patches  of  palm  forests,  the  shining  river  shimmering 
with  sails  and  the  wonderful  city,  with  its  flat  roofs,  cupolas, 
minarets  and  domes,  all  spread  out  like  an  intricate  model  at 
one's  feet.  The  mosques  are  intensely  interesting,  but  no 
description  of  them  is  necessary.  The  domed  roofs  as  light 
and  fragile  as  soap  bubbles,  and  the  cool  interiors  will  be  very 
fascinating.  As  you  will  see,  the  Moslem  prays  at  the  appointed 
hour  no  matter  where  he  may  be,  although  it  is  said  the  younger 
generation  is  fast  giving  up  this  habit ;  everywhere,  however, 
you  may  see  the  Mohammedan  reading  his  Koran. 

As  we  returned  from  the  citadel  and  mosque  of  Mohammed 
Ali  one  evening,  about  sunset,  in  the  midst  of  that  beautiful 
mellow,  yellow,  golden  afterglow,  characteristic  of  the  Nile 
valley  and  the  desert,  we  heard  for  the  first  time  all  over  the 


146  Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 

city,  from  the  slender  minarets  piercing  the  sky,  from  nearly  300 
mosques,  the  thrilling  and  fascinating  Muezzin  call  ringing  out 
upon  the  evening  air,  beginning,  "Allah,  la  Allah,"  and  mean- 
ing, "  God  is  good,  God  is  good.  Bear  witness  that  there  is  no 
God  but  God.  Bear  witness  that  Mohammed  is  the  prophet  of 
God.  Come  to  prayer.  Come  to  felicity.  God  is  great.  There 
is  no  God  but  God."  All  this  is  repeated  many  times  in  the 
sonorous  Arabic  language,  and  with  the  pathos  and  attracting 
interest  of  the  human  voice. 


c4nofher  'vieni>  of  Citadel  and  Mosque 

The  Tyramids  and  the  Sphinx  are  opposite  Cairo,  across 
the  Nile,  about  six  miles  over  the  fertile  valley  and  on  the  edge 
of  the  sands  of  the  desert.  On  the  way  to  the  river  notice  the 
beautiful  houses  in  the  modern  quarter,  built  and  occupied  by 
English,  French,  German  and  the  wealthy  Hebrew  bankers. 
Notice  the  English  garrison  and  parade  grounds  where  com- 
panies of  English  soldiers,  in  their  red  coats,  will  perhaps  be 
training,  while  directly  opposite  is  located  the  palace  of  the 
Khedive.  Notice,  also,  the  beautiful  Nile  bridge  leading  to  the 
magnificent  accacia  drive  to  the  pyramids. 

One  fee!s  a  tremendous  thrill  of  emotion  as  he  comes  in 
sight  of  "  these  oldest  remains  of  the  ingenuity  and  labor  of 
mankind  at  once  stupendous  and  mysterious."  "  Everything 
fears  time:,  but  time  fears  the  pyramids,"  said  an  Arabian 
physician  more  than  700  years  ago. 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


147 


SHile  Boats 


"  Herodotus,  the  father  of  history,  described  these  nearly 
3,500  years  ago  substantially  as  they  are  to-day,  and  when  he 
saw  them  they  were  probably  older  than  Israel's  history.  Yet, 
they  stand  to-day,  and,  but  for  the  wearing  away  of  the  surface 
of  the  stones  by  human  feet  and  the  plunderings  of  the  struc- 
tures for  the  building  of  houses,  if  visitors  were  told  that  the 
work  had  been  finished  in  the  first  part  of  the  present  century 
they  would  see  nothing  inconsistent  in  the  statement." 

The  pyramids  are  disappointing  at  first,  just  as   Niagara 
disappoints  most  beholders,  but  by   and   by  they    win  into  the 


148 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


mind  by  their  tremendous  antiquity  and  history  and  weave  a 
chain  of  awe  and  reverence  which  makes  them  tremendous  and 
impressive. 


The  Btoominglon  Feat  at  the  alUbasler  Mosque 


The  well  known  triangular  form,  seen  in  pictures  and 
engravings  together  with  the  exceeding  roughness  and  unfin- 
ished character  of  the  pyramids,  when  you  draw  near,  takes 
away  at  first  sight  from  the  impression,  but  when  the  great 
pyramid  of  Cheops  in  all  its  unexpected  bulk  and  majesty 
towers  close  above  one's  head,  the  effect  is  as  sudden  as  it  is 
overwhelming;  it  shuts  out  the  sky  and  the  horizon  ;  it  shuts 
out  all  the  other  pyramids  ;  it  shuts  out  everything  but  the 
sense  of  awe  and  wonder. 

The  pyramids  are  situated,  as  you,  perhaps, 
know,  in  what  we  would  call  cemeteries.  '1  heir 
origin  and  use  have  been  pretty  well  determined, 
although  many  theories  have  been  invented  and 
defended  ;  some  have  said  that  they  were  temples  ; 
others,  that  they  were  monuments  ;  others,  that  they 

were  meant  for 
scientific  or  as- 
tronomical pur- 
poses ;  others, 
that  they  were 
symbols  of  orig- 


inal 


things  ; 


A  Dahabeah 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


149 


others  that  they  were  standards  of  measurements,  but  all 
theories,  except  that  they  were  tombs,  have  failed  to  commend  the 
assent  of  any  considerable  number  of  competent  investigators. 
Mariette  Bey,  one  of  the  most  careful  and  scientific  inves- 
tioators,  says :   "  When  a  king  ascended  the  throne  he  began 


Cheoos  the  Great 


to  build  his  pyramid  and  enlarge  it  by  outer  coatings,  as  the 
pyramid  of  Chefron.  As  time  went  on,  at  his  death,  the  last 
coating  was  finished.  The  first  step  was  to  level  the  earth,  the 
next  to  excavate  the  subterranean  chambers." 

The  pyramid  of  Cheops  was  built  probably  4200  years 
B.  C,  and  is,  therefore,  in  its  seventh  millennium.  It  is  hard  to 
realize  that  this  huge   mass  of  stone  was  erected  by   human 


150 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


hands  so  many  thousands  of  years  ago,  and  that  it  has  looked 
out  over  the  plains  and  the  river  for  so  many  centuries. 

Its  height  and  size  you  may  find  in  the  guide  books.  Only 
remember  that  it  is  higher  than  most  church  steeples  in  America, 
and  that  it  is  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  smaller  than  it  was  when 
first  built,  because  it  has  been  robbed  of  its  outer  and  highly- 
polished  granite  surface,  which  was  probably  inscribed  with 
hieroglyphics.     It  covers  a  space  of  thirteen  acres. 

The  height  of  the  stone  steps, 
three  and  four  feet,  makes  the  climb 
to  the  top  interesting,  but  it  is  well 
worth  all  the  effort.  The 
sense  of  the  greatness  of  the 
pyramids  is  here  truly  real- 
ized. The  height  and  the  map 
of  the  surrounding  country, 
the  vivid  contrast  of  life  and  death, 
of  desert  and  fertility,  the  desert 
extending  away  like  a 
wide  ocean  of  tawny, 
sandy  billows  out  of 
sight,  the  vivid  green 
stretch  of  narrow  Nile 
valley,  are  intensely 
interesting.  There  is  a 
space  of  about  thirty 
square  feet  on  the  top. 
One  would  like  to  be 
quiet  and  give  his  whole 
attention  to  the  scene 
but  the  everlasting 
clatter  and  request  of 
the  Arabs  that  you  buy 
something  "  antika, 
antika,"  is  annoying  and  distracting.  The  descent  from  the 
pyramid  will  be  found  a  surprise.  Though  the  steps  are  wide, 
you  feel  as  if  you  must  in  some  way  or  other  slip  or  slide  down 
the  descent,  but  this  never  happens.  The  Sphinx  is  but  a 
short  distance  from  here,  and  the  ride  is  usually  accomplished 
on  that  beast  of  inharmonious  motions,   the  camel. 


"  Si  ill  the  Pyramids  imperious  pierce  the  cloudless  skies 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


I5J 


1)          1 

-*i 

;';flii?:tfi(ll 

I  ■ 

r  1 

T/i^  Beautiful  Accacia  Dri've 

Let  me  quote  a  description  of  this  ride  by  a  fellow  traveler 
of  1895.  He  says  :  "  At  the  base  of  Cheops  the  camel-driver 
and  the  donkey-boy  lay  in  wait  for  us. 

"  Will  'Merica-man  ride  'Rabian  camel  ?  " 

Is  there  anything  that  anybody  else  has  ever  done  that 
the  man  from  America  will  not  do  just  to  see  how  it  feels  ?  The 
'Merica-man  will  ride  'Rabian  camel.  And  the  man  from 
Seattle,  the  Judge  from  the  Provinces,  the  Honorables  and  the 
Colonels,  the  M.  D.'s  and  the  D.  D.'s,  the  stately  matrons,  the 
charming  widows  and  the  dainty  girls — all  take  a  mount.  It  is 
a  proud  day,  indeed.  And  when  .TLsculapius — the  traveler  of 
many  climes — climbs  to  the  ape.x  of  one  of  the  biggest  and 
flaunts  Old   Glory  over  the  African   continent,   the   enthusiasm 


Chefron 


i52 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


**  cAcross  the  green  meado'ws  io  Cheops  ^nd  Chefron  " 

knows  no  bounds.  When  you  are  ready  to  go  aboard  the 
"  Ship  of  the  Desert,"  the  captain  proceeds  to  make  him  He 
down.  He  protests  at  the  proposed  indignity,  cries  plaintively, 
blows  off  steam,  and  finally  doubles  his  many-jointed  legs  under 
him  and  comes  to  anchor  on  his  keel.  You  climb  up  onto  the 
roof  and  make  yourself  as  secure  as  possible  on  the  ridge  pole 
in  a  sort  of  saw-buck  lashed  to  his  belvedere,  grasping  the 
storm-stays  and  stanchions  which  stick  up  fore  and  aft  as  a  fur- 
ther security.  You  think  the  beast  is  asleep,  but  he  isn't.  He 
is  simply  smiling.  There  is  a  tradition  that  he  gets  up  on 
his  hind  legs  first,  but  don't  you  believe  it.     He  always  gets  up 


A  Mixed  Company 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


153 


J  54 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


On  the  Side  of  the  Tyrdmid 


first  with  the  end  you  are 

thinking  will  be  last,  and 

his     gentlest    motion     in 

doing  it  is  like  the  swish  of 

a  catapault.     You  cannot 

play  the  foolish  virgin  on 

him — you      never      know 

when     the     upheaval     is 

going   to  occur,  or   what 

direction    the   disturbance 

will  take  when  started.     It 

may  run  from  fore  to  aft, 

or  contrary  wise,  or,  start- 
ing    diagonally,     change 

midway    at   right   angles, 

and  end  in  a  spiral  snap 

which       dislocates      your 

neck.  When  the  convul- 
sion terminates   he   takes 

a  nap,  or,  if  you  still  remain  aboard,  gets  underway  and  makes 

you  seasick.     It  is  said  that  the  ideal  camel  has  a  gait  so  easy 

that  one  may  drink  a  cup  of  coffee  going  at  full  speed  without 

spilling  a  drop,  but 
with  the  one  that 
eot  me  nothing 
short  of  a  hot 
water  bag  and  a 
rubber  hose  would 
have  answered. 
When  he  walked 
the  motion  seemed 
something  between 
a  ship  in  a  chop  sea 
and  a  corkscrew. 
\Mien  he  dropped 
into  a  trot  it  was 
a  cross  between  a 
bucking  broncho 
and  a  pile-driver.  " 

'  High  on  a  Throne  of  Roya!  Slate  " 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


155 


The  Sphinx  stands  east  of  the  pyramids  gazing  out  toward 
the  Nile — a  lion  with  the  head  of  a  god.  It  had  been  supposed 
years  ago  that  there  was  but  one  Sphinx,  but  Mariette  Bey  dis- 
covered that  there  was  a  whole  avenue  of  them,  141  in  number, 

leading  to  an  altar  directly 
beneath  the  face  of  the 
great  Sphinx,  from  which 
the  smoke  of  the  sacrifices 
went  up  into  the  gigantic 
nostrils. 

Its  length  and  height 

and   dimensions, 

cap  and  wig 

d  beard  you 

lay    all     find 

lescribed     in 

your      guide 

books. 

There    is 

nothing  in 

heaven 


sand    years 

B.  C.  it  must  have  presented 
much  the  same  appearance 
as  it  does  to-day,  save  for 
mutilations.  The  nose  es- 
pecially has  been  destroyed, 
the  Mameluke  soldiers  used 
that  organ  for  years  as  a 
target  in  their  gun  practice. 

And  this  reminds  me  of  the  story  of  the  curious  passenger  in  a 
long  linen  duster  who  leaned  over  the  back  of  the  seat  in  front 
of  him  and  asked  a  fellow  traveler,  "  Would  you  mind  telling  me 
how  your  nose  got  all  knocked  over  to  one  side  that  way  ?  " 
"Not  at  all,"  cheerfully  responded  the  passenger,  "it  was 
done  one  time  when  I  was  poking  it  into  other  folks'  business." 


77ie  '* Apex  "  of  An  Alkrite's  Ambition 


156 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


*' cAnd  the  grcAt  Sphinx  stares  with  mysterious  solemn  stony  eyes'' 


The  Gizeh  Museum  once  at  Boulak,  an  island  in  the  Nile, 
is  a  place  of  tremendous  interest,  containing  the  most  famous 
deposits  of  Egyptian  and  ancient  relics  in  the  world.  It  was 
begun  in  1854  by  the  famous  Frenchman,  Mariette  Bey,  whose 
remains  are  now  enclosed  in  a  marble  sarcophagus  and  placed 
before  the  principal  entrance  of  this  palace  museum. 

The  museum  alone  is  well  worth  making  a  visit  to  Egypt 
to  see.  The  ancient  jewelry  and  ornaments  and  gems,  the 
statues  and  mummies,  especially  the  famous  mummies  of  Seti 
the  First  and  Rameses  the  Second,  the  monarchs  of  the 
oppression  and  the  Exodus  must  not  be  forgotten  or  omitted. 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


J57 


Perhaps  a  brief  account  of  the  finding  of  these  old  mum- 
mies may  be  interesting.  An  extraordinary  variety  and  number 
of  Scarabi  or  images  of  beetles  bearing  the  marks  or  cartouches 
of  monarchs  who  belonged  to 
the  most  ancient  dynasties  of 
I'lgyptian  history,  began  at  one 
time  to  pour  into  Cairo.  The 
inscriptions  relating  to  noble  and 
royal  personages  excited  the 
curiosity  of  the  director  of  the 
museum  and  going  up  to  Luxor  whence 
these  rare  and  ancient  things  seemed 
to  come,  he  discovered  that  three  Arabs 
had  been  selling  them. 

After  some  difficulty  he  arrested 
the  principal  one  of  them,  and  while 
he  was  in  confinement  the  two 
brothers  kept  on  selling  these  relics 
obtained  from  some  mysterious 
quarter. 

But  the  division  of  the  profits 
was  unsatisfactory,  and  finally  one  betrayed  the  whole  plot, 
when  the  hiding  place  of  forty  mummies  of  the  old  Pharaohs 
was  disclosed. 


The  Great  Mohammedan   Uni'versitv 

Corner  of  Gizeh  Museum 

On  the  ivay  to  Thebes 


iMosgue  of  Saltan  Hasan 


J58 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


Interior  of  the  Mosque  of  Sultan  Hasan 
A  Funeral  in  Cairo 


"  Nothing  in  history,"  said 
Dr.  Robinson,  "  parallels  the 
dramatic  enthusiasm  of  this  dis- 
covery in  England  and  France  and 
everywhere.  It  was  too  astound- 
ing to  be  true.  Shiploads  of 
royal  bodies  and  relics  from  the 
great  tombs  were  carried  to  the 
Gizeh  Museum.  Unwrapping 
their  mummy  casings  they  were 
found  to  be  the  actual  Pharaohs 
of  Moses'  and  Joseph's  time 
and  of  the  ancient  time  before 
them." 

These  mummies,  after  being 

removed    from    one  great   tomb 

to  another  and  finally  lying  packed   in   this  last  resting-place 

for  over  3000  years  in  perfect  security,  lie  to-day  in  the  most 

unsafe  place  they  have  ever  been.     It  ought  not  to  be  so. 

A  visit  should  be  paid  to  the  site  of  Memphis,  a  short  dis- 
tance above  Cairo  and  once  the  greatest  capital  of  Egypt.  It 
can  only  be  reached  from  Bedrashen,  the  railroad  station  or  the 
boat  landing  on  the  Nile,  by  a  donkey  ride  of  some  miles. 
This  reminds  one  of  the  driver  in  the  Alps  who  upon  reaching 
a  certain  spot  turned  to 
his  passengers  and  re- 
marked ,  "  From  this 
point  the  road  is  only 
accessible  to  mules  and 
donkeys,  I  must,  there- 
fore, ask  the  gentlemen 
to  get  out  and  proceed 
on  foot."  Although  Memphis, 
says  a  traveler,  v/as  probably 
the  largest  city  in  Egypt  and, 
perhaps  the  oldest,  though  it  was 
many  miles  in  length  and  so 
magnificent  that  the  pyramids 
Abousir,  Sakkara  and  Dashoor 
are  but  its  cemeteries  ;  though  its 

Couri  of  Alabaster  Mosque.     Street  Scene 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


159 


Ramesea  dt  Memphis 


streets  were  more  than  a  half  day's  journey  in  length  ;  though  it 
exerted  a  profound  influence  upon  the  destiny  of  the  human 
race,  and  though  down  to  800  years  ago  its  ruins  were  such  as 
to  cause  a  discriminating  traveler  and  scientist  to  say  :  "  As  for 
the  figures  of  idols  that  are  found  among  those  ruins,  whether 
as  regards  their  number  or  their  enormous  magnitude,  it  is 
something  that  baffles  description  and  of  which  one  can  hardly 
convey  any  idea,"  and  led  him  to  regard  as  pardonable  the 
popular  belief  that  the  ancient  Egyptians  were  giants  of  fabu- 
lous longevity  who  had  the  power  of  moving  masses  of  rocks 
with  a  magician's  wand  ;  and,  notwithstanding  Memphis  existed 
according  to  Mariette  Bey  5000  years,  nothing  remains  but 
mounds,  ruins  of  walls,  broken  columns,  and  defaced  statues, 
and  idols,  above  which  wave  pahii  trees  and  around  which  grow 
weeds  and  rank  grass." 


-\^ 


•1 


'  Old  in  the  days  of  Abraham  ' 


i60 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


1a  . . 


Here  was  almost  the  beginning  of  organized  society,  cer- 
tainly so  far  as  historical  records  are  concerned.  Here  are  the 
celebrated  tombs  of  the  sacred  bulls,  Apis,  extending  under 
the  rocky  limestone  surface  on  the  edge  of  the  desert  in  broad 
avenues  intercepted  repeatedly  by  huge  chambers  containing 
granite  sarcophagi  in  which   were  placed  the  mummies  of  the 

sacred  bulls. 

The     hieroglyphics,     in 

brilliant  colors,  describing 
various  scenes  of  the  life  of 
the  Egyptians  so  many  thou- 
sands of  years  ago,  are  most 
interestinor  and  fascinatino-. 

In  the  tomb  ofTi,  the 
rich  man  and  agriculturist, 
hundreds  of  scenes  in  his  life 
are  pictured.  Near  here,  too.  Is  the  famous  step  pyramid,  the 
oldest  of  all  human  structures,  many  hundreds  of  years  older 
than  the  pyramid  of  Cheops,  and  old  when  Abraham  came 
to  Egypt. 

In  another  direction  from  Cairo  lie  the  ruins  of  Heleopolis 
and  the  temple  of  the  sun,  where  was  the  great  University  of 
On,  to  which  Moses  was  sent  with  a  fellow  pupil,  Rameses  the 
Second,  by  his  father  Setl  the  First.     On  has  been  called  the 


^^^^- 

■i^. 


II  ***  ^"**'*^^ 


Tne  Step  'Pyramid  'Beggar 


Where  tue  had  lunch.    At  the  feet  of  the  Sphinx 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


i6i 


Mohammedan  School 


Oxford  of  old  Egypt.  Here  it  was  that  Plato  and  Solon  studied 
for  years,  and  where  Herodotus  paused  in  his  travels  to  collect 
the  facts  which  gave  him  the  name  of  the  father  of  history. 
Here  Joseph  lived  and  married  the  daughter  of  the  priest  of 
On,  and  had  born  to  him  his  two  children,  Menassah  and 
Ephrium.  Josephus  tells  us  that  Jacob  lived  here.  But  I  have 
touched  only  the  outside  of  the  wonders  and  interests  of  Egypt, 
the  Nile  and  its  history.  It  is  a  dreamland  of  untold  attractions 
for  the  traveler. 

Let  me  close  in  the  words  of  the  learned  Hebrew  scholar, 
Eidersheim  :  "  The  ancient  mysterious  Nile  still  rolls  its  healing 
waters  out  to  the  blue  sea  waves,  where,  so  it  is  supposed,  they 
change  its  taste  within  a  radius  farther  than  the  eye  can  reach. 
To  be  gently  borne  in  bark  or  ship  on  its  waters,  to  watch  the 
strange  vegetation  and  curious  sights  upon  its  banks,  to  gaze 
beyond  where  emerald  green  merges  into  the  trackless  desert, 
to  wander  under  the  shade  of  its  gigantic  monuments,  or  within 
the  weird  avenues  of  its  colossal  temples,  to  see  the  scrolls  of 
its  mysterious  hieroglyphics,  to  note  the  sameness  of  manner 
and  of  people  as  of  old,  and  to  watch  the  unique  rites  of  its 
ancient  religion  unfold  at  each  new  discovery  ;  this  is, indeed,  to 
be  again  in  the  old  far-away  world,  and  that  amidst  a  dreami- 
ness bewitching  to  the  senses  and  a  gorgeousness  dazzling  to 
the  imagination." — A.  J".  P.  McC. 


162 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


The  Suez  Canal 


An  Incident  on  the  Way  to  Thebes 
"  When  we  mounted  our  donkeys  on  the  banks  of  the  Nile, 
for  the  trip  to  Thebes,  there  were  a  number  of  Arab  girls 
carrying  bottles  filled  with  water  from  the  river,  who  accom- 
panied the  party  for  the  purpose  of  selling  the  water  to  any  of 
its  members  who  might  become  thirsty  when 
crossing  the  desert.  One,  quite  pretty  faced 
and  picturesquely  dressed  young  girl,  ran  by 
my  side  during  the  entire  journey,  persisting 
that  I  was  thirsty  and  must  drink  her  water, 
continually  saying  to  me,  "  Papa,  I  your  girl. 
your  Fatima."  "  You  my  nice  papa,  you  drink  my  water,  fresh 
from  Nile,  make  you  strong,  you  can  ride  donkey  all  day. 
Fatima  like  you."  Imagine  the  feeling  of  a  modest  man  like 
myself,  from  the  Quaker  City,  having  such  words  as  these 
flashed  on  me  by  a  bewitching  black-eyed  creature  and  in 
such  a   crowd.     1  am  afraid  I   sighed  for  a    "  Lodge  in  some 


^Bdcksheesh 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


163 


Fellaheen 


vast  wilderness."  When  we  arrived  at  Thebes,  Fatima  and 
the  rest  of  our  followers  were  shut  outside  the  gates.  I 
expected  to  see  her  no  more.  After  lunching  in  the 
shadow  of  the  Temple  of  Karnak  we  started  back,  and  I  was 
joined  by  Fatima  at  once,  with  her  appealing  cry  to  buy  her 
water.  Nothing  could  have  induced  me  to  drink  that  water, 
carried  as  it  had  been  for  hours,  exposed  to  the  heat  of  that 
clay,  but  to  appease  my  "  Fatima  "  and  also  to  get  rid  of  her 
importunities  and  black  eyes,  I  gave  her  a  good  sum  for  the 
water,  and  taking  the  jug,  poured  it  on  the  sand.  Seeing  this, 
her  former  endearing  words  gave  place  to  the  most  vindictive 
ones  imaginable,  and  with  them,  alas,  disappeared  my  romance 
of  the  desert.  Nevertheless,  Thebes  and  Fatima  will  always 
be  coupled  together  in  my  memory." — Artlnir  T.  Smith. 


On  the  Nile 


164 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


Tiie  Nubians  at  Luxor. 

"  While  we  were  at  Luxor  a  group  of  Nubians  gathered  on 
the  bank  near  our  mooring  watching  with  interest  our  move- 
ments and  amusements.  Tiring  of  other  things  we  turned  our 
attention  to  them.  After  a  deal  of  coaxing  some  of  them  finally 
came  aboard.  They  were  a  straight,  gaunt  lot  of  men  with 
dark  brown  skins  and  long,  black,  crinkled  hair.  Their  dress 
was  that  of  the  Egyptian,  but  dirtier,  if  possible,  than  the  ordi- 
nary.    We  were  much  interested  and  amused  by  their  manners 


An  Oriental  Skipper 


and  dances,  dances  somewhat  similar  to  those  of  the  dervishes. 
As  they  danced  they  opened  their  mouths,  exposing  teeth 
white  as  ivory.  Their  teeth  were  so  beautiful  that  we  asked,  by 
signs,  to  examine  them,  and  found  them  all  free  from  decay  or 
blemish  of  any  kind.  After  they  had  submitted  to  this  examina- 
tion, they  were  curious  to  see  if  our  teeth  differed  from  their  own, 
so  I  opened  my  mouth  for  their  inspection.  One  of  them  dis- 
covered several  gold  fillings,  and  by  excited  exclamations  drew 
his  companions'  attention  to  the  Yankee  who  carried  his  pocket- 
book  in  his  mouth.  All  my  friends,  however,  were  as  wealthy, 
and  the  Nubians  showed  an  anxiety  to  pick,  not  our  pockets, 
but  our  teeth.  One  of  our  party  had  false  teeth,  and  he  opened 
his  mouth  for  their  benefit.  While  they  were  looking  with  won- 
der at   so  strange    a    sight,  he  removed  his  upper  plate  and 


Alexandria,  Cairo,  Pyramids,  The  Nile 


(65 


I 


extended  it  with  a  rapid  movement  toward  the  astonished 
Nubian.  With  one  accord  these  children  of  the  desert  made  a 
rush  for  the  rail  and  jumped  overboard  into  the  Nile,  and  no 
amount  of  coaxincf  could  entice  them  ai^ain  onto  the  steamer. 
After  the  lau«fhter  which  the  incident  occasioned  had  subsided, 
some  one  was  mean  enough  to  remark,  'Whit  would  the  poor 
heathen  do  if  they  could  see  one  of  our  lady  friends  remove 
not  only  her  teeth,  but  her  color  and  her  hair?'  " — Harrison  L. 
Beatty. 


I 


'  Her  Lord  and  cMasler  ' 


JERUSALEM   AND   THEREABOUTS 


SYRIA 


Bibliography 

Potter,  Henry  C.  (D.  D.)-  The  Gates  of  the  East:  A  Winter  in  Egypt  and  Syria, 
pp.  259.  New  York.  (Appendix  contains  literal  translation  of  the  Jewish 
Lamentations  at  the  Place  of  Wailing  at  Jerusalem :  modification  of  Seventy- 
fourth  and  Seventy-ninth  Psahns.) 

Warner,  C   D.     In  the  Levant. 

Maspero,  G.  The  Struggles  of  the  Nations.  Egypt,  Syria  and  Assyria.  Illus- 
trated.    New  York. 

I'OKTEK,  Dr  J.  L.  TheGiantCitiesoflUshan  and  Syria's  Holy  Places.  Illustrated. 
London.     (Very  interesting.) 

Oi.iPHANT,  Laukknce.  Haifa;  or,  Life  in  Modern  Palestine.  Edited,  with  intro- 
duction, by  Charles  Dana.     pp.  370.     New  York  (Harper). 

Warren  and  Wilson.  Recovery  of  Jerusalem.  Illustrated.  (Palestine  Explora- 
tion Fund,  64-65.)     London. 

Ferrgusson,  Dr.  James.  Temple  of  the  Jews  in  the  Harem  Area  at  Jerusalem. 
Illustrated.     (Architectural.)     London. 

Ferrgusson,  Dr.  James.  The  Holy  Sepulchre  and  the  Temple  at  Jerusalem. 
Illustrated.     London. 

Besant,  W.,  and  Palmer,  Prof.  E.  H.  Jerusalem,  the  City  of  Herod  and  Saladin. 
Maps.     To  present  time.     London. 

Hutton,  Laurence.  Literary  Landmarks  of  Jerusalem.  Illustrated  by  F.  V. 
Du  Mond.     pp.  74.     New  York. 

Lewis,  J.  Hyter.     The  Holy  Places  of  Jerusalem.     Illustrated.     London. 

Chronicles  of  the  Crusades.  (Richard  of  Devizes.  Geoffrey  de  Vinsauf.  Joinville.) 
Bohn. 

Lane-Pool,  Stanley.  Saladin  and  the  Fall  of  the  Kingdom  of  Jerusalem.  New 
York. 

Oliphant,  Mrs.  Marg.  Jerusalem  :  Its  History  and  Hope.  pp.  50.  (Good.) 
Illustrated.     London  and  New  York. 

Wallace,  Edwin  Sherman  (late  U.  S.  Consul  at  Jerusalem).  Jerusalem  the  Holy. 
Boston,  1898.  Brief  historical  sketch,  followed  by  detailed  account  of  Jerusa- 
lem  of  to-day,  particularly  its  people. 

Geikie,  C.     The  Holy  Land  and  The  Bible.     2  vols.     New  York. 

Harper,  H.  A.  The  Bible  andModern  Discoveries.  With  introduction  by  Walter 
Besant.     Maps  and  illustrations.     New  York. 

Stanley,  Dr.  A.  P.  Sinai  and  Palestine  in  Connection  with  Their  History.  Maps 
and  plates.     London. 

HuRLL,  E.  M.  The  Life  of  Our  Lord  in  Art.  Illustrated,  pp.  370.  Boston.  A 
classified  list  of  authorities ;  pp.  4. 

Dallas,  J.  W.     Ride  Through  Palestine.     Philadelphia. 

Field,  Rev.  Henry  M.  (D.  D.)     Among  the  Holy  Hills.     Map.     New  York. 

Newman,  John  P.  (LL.D.).     Dan  to  Beersheba.     Maps.     New  York. 

Prime.     Tent  Life  in  Syria  and  Holy  Land.     New  York. 

Picturesque  Palestine.  By  the  most  eminent  Palestine  scholars  and  explorers. 
Illustrated.     Sold  by  subscription.     New  York  (Appleton). 

ScHAFK,  Dr.  Philip.     Through  Bible  Lands.     London. 

Wilson,  Edw.  L.  In  Scripture  Land:  New  Views  of  Sacred  Places.  150  illustra- 
tions, new  from  photographs.  New  York.  (First  artist-photographer  to  tour 
the  Holy  Land  with  a  camera.) 

Zeller,  Mrs.  H.     Wild  Flowers  of  the  Holy  Land.     54  colored  plates.     London. 

Smith,  Prof.  G.  Adam  (D.  D.).  The  Historical  Geography  of  the  Holy  Land.  6 
colored  plates.     Maps.     pp.  720.     New  York.     Latest  and  best. 

Robinson,  Dr.  Edw.  Biblical  Research  in  Palestine,  Mt.  Sinai  and  Arabia  Petrea. 
3  vols.     London.     Standard  work. 

Thompson,  William  M.  The  Land  and  the  Book;  or,  Biblical  Illustrations  drawn 
from  the  Manners  and  Customs,  the  Scenes  and  Scenery  of  the  Holy  Land. 
3  vols.     Illustrated.     Maps.     New  York. 

(1C9) 


170  Syria:   Bibliography 

Palestine — History 

KiTTO.     History  of  Palestine.     Boston. 

Burton,  Isabella.  Inner  Life  of  Syria,  Palestine  and  the  Holy  Land.  2  plates. 
London. 

Houghton,  Ross  C.  (A.  M.)     Women  of  the  Orient.     Illustrated.     New  York. 

Van-Lennep,  Henry  J.  Bible  Lands:  Their  Modern  Customs  and  Manners;  illus- 
trative of  Scripture,     pp.  832.     Illustrated.     Maps.     New  York. 

EwALD.     History  of  Israel.     (Translated.)     8  vols. 

JOSEPHUS'  Works. 

Millman.  History  of  the  Jews.  New  and  revised  edition.  3  vols,  in  2  vols. 
New  York. 

Fiction 

CoRELLi,  Marie.     Barabbas.     (Time  of  first  century.) 

Abbott,  Edwin  A.     Philochristus.     (First  century.) 

Ingraham,  Joseph  Holt.     Prince  of  the  House  of  David;  or.  Three  Years  in  the 

Holy  City.     Scenes  in  the  life  of  Jesus. 
Hassan,  A.  Fellah.     A  Romance  of  Palestine.     (Little,  Brown  &  Co.)  Boston. 
VanDyke,  Henry.     Story  of  the  Other  Wise  Man. 
EscRiEH,  EuRiCH  Perez.     Martyr  of  Golgotha.     Translated  from  Spanish  by  Adele 

Josephine  Godov.     2  vols.     (Gottsberger  &  Co.)  New  York. 
Henty,  Geo  A.     For  the  Temple  :  A  Tale  of  the  Fall  of  Jerusalem. 
Peploe,  Mrs  J.  B.     Naomi:  or,  Last  Days  of  Jerusalem.     (Webb.) 
White,  James.     Richard  Coeur  de  Lion.     (Twelfth  century.) 
Edwards,  John  George.     Boy  Crusades. 
Scott,  Sir  Walter.     Count  Robert  of  Paris. 
Scott,  Sir  Walter.     Talisman. 
Zenobia  ;  or.  Fall  of  Palmyra. 
Wallace,  Lew.     Ben  Hur:  A  Tale  of  the  Christ. 
Tucker,  Charlotte  (Pseud.,  A.  L.  O.  E.).     Hebrew  Heroes.     (Twentieth  century 

B.  C.) 
Ebers,  George.    Joshua  :  A  Story  of  Biblical  Times. 
Tucker,  Charlotte  (Pseud.,  A.  L.  O.  E.).     Rescued  from  Egypt. 
Osborne,  Duffield.    Spell  of  Ashtaroth. 

Tucker  (A.  L.  O.  E.).     Shepherd  of  Bethlehem.     (Eleventh  century  B.  C.) 
KiNGSLEY,  Charles.     Hypatia.     (Fifth  century  B.  C.)     (An  English  classic  which 

has  much  to  do  with  the  Orient  and  its  occult  influence  on  a  people  and 

civilization  unlike  our  own.) 
Ludlow,  James  M.     King  of  Tyre:    A  Tale  of  the  Time  ot   Ezra  and  Nehemiah. 

(Fifth  century  B.  C.) 
De  Kay,  Charles.     The  Vision  of  Nimrod :  An  Oriental  Romance. 
De  Kay,  Charles.     The  Vision  of  Esther:  A  Sequel  to  The  Vision  of  Nimrod. 


Periodicals 

Over  the  Lebanon  to  Baalbec.     (J.  C.  M.  Bellew)  Temp.  Bar.,  vol.  i,  p.  114,  359. 

Visit  to  Baalbec.     (Bentley)  vol.  31,  p.  385. 

By  Diligence  to  Damascus.     (J.  H.  Johnson)  Scribner's,  vol.  14,  p.  137. 

Bethlehem.     (S.  S.  McClure)  McClurc's  Magazine,  vol.  8,  p.  183. 

Bethlehem,  Christmas  at.     (J.  J.  Tissot)  Century,  vol.  35,  p.  176  (December,  1898). 

The   Jaffa   and   Jerusalem    Railroad.      (Selah    Merrill)  Scribner's.   vol.    13,   p.   289 

(March,  1893). 
Railway  from  Jaff.i  to  Jerusalem.     Living  Age,  vol.  20d,  p.  441. 
Nazareth:  The  Home  of  Jesus.     (S.  Merrill)  Biblical  World,  vol.  11,  p.  5  (January, 

1898.) 
Emperor  William  in  the  Holy  Land.     (S.  I.  Curtis)  Cosnwpolit-in,  vol.  26,  pp.  363-78 

(l'"ebruaiy,  1899).     lUustraled. 
The  Son  of  the  Carpenter.     (Lyman   Abbott)    Cosmopolitan,  vol.   16,   No.  5,  p.  515 

(March,  1894).     Good  illustrations. 


Jerusalem  and    Thereabouts 


I7t 


The  Jdff^  Harbor 


The  Jaffa  Episode 


Monday,  March  14th. 

'*  We  received  the  welcome  news  Saturday  morning  that 
the  prisoners  of  the  stormy  harbor  were  landing  and  that  ihey 
would  be  in  the  city,  whose  streets  are  not  golden,  about  two 
o'clock.  The  dozen  of  us  who  were  here  decided  to  welcome 
them  at  the  Jerusalem  Depot,  one  mile  from  the  walls.  At 
two  we  were  there  and  so  were  the  train  and  the  carriages  to 
convey  them  to  the  different  hotels.  The  drivers  had  their 
vehicles  in  a  mud  hole  back  of  the  depot  and  there  was  a  rush 
and  a  roar  for  seats.  We  who  had  sacrificed  ourselves  to 
extend  an  open-armed  welcome  were  all  but  ignored  in  the 
mad  scramble  through  the  mud  to  the  carriages.  But  there 
were  about  half  of  them  left  after  all  and  for  lack  of  other 
amusement  they  began  to  recognize  their  friends. 

They  told  an  awful  tale  of  deprivation,  dust  and  wretched 
accommodation  and  shipwreck.  According  to  their  story  one 
miserable  boat  was  unequal  to  the  numbers,  ran  upon  a  sand 
bar,  sprang  a  leak  and  introduced  the  "pampered  sons  of 
luxury"  to  hardships  they  never  dreamt  of  submitting  to  when 
reading  the  gilt  edged  incendiary  circulars  sent  to  them.  These 
deprivations  coupled  with  the  turbulent,  twisting  undertow  of 
the  Joppa  sea  had  not  left  them  in  a  happy  frame  of  mind  and 
they  were  thoroughly  prepared  to  insult  their  best  friends  and 
find  fault  with  the  most  humane  treatment. 


172 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


When  a  vessel  455  feet  long  stands  up  straight  on  its  end 
and  whistles,  people  are  in  a  position  to  imbibe  doctrinal  views 
hostile  to  all  laws  of  sociology.  It  appears  the  Aller  arrived  at 
the  port  on  time  Wednesday  and  could  have  landed  them,  but 
the  modern  law  of  the  Sultan  forbade  their  landing  at  that  hour. 
Before  the  majesty  of  the  law,  they  bowed  ;  and  then  the  storm 
arose  which  shook  Jaffa  to  its  roots,  and  the  sea  was  in  a  frenzy. 
The  200  passengers  were  soon  in  the  agonies  of  sea-sickness 
and  the  dining-room  became  unpopular.  The  captain,  to  avoid 
disaster,  headed  for  Caifa,  but  the  wind  veered  and  they  turned 
about  and  landed  at  Port  Said,  the  upper  end  of  the  Suez 
Canal.  This,  on  the  whole,  was  an  experience  one  would  prefer 
to  read  about  rather  than  endure." 


tHsembarking  at  Jaffa 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


J  73 


Jerusalem  and   the  Land  of   Promise 
Substance  of  Lectures  before  tfie  Allerites  at  Howard's  Hotel,  Jerusalem 

No  country  on  earth  has  at  once  so  limited  an  area  and  so 
great  a  variety  of  climate  as  Palestine.  The  Jordan  Valley 
enjoys  tropical  heat  and  vegetation.  Mount  Hermon  is  just 
beyond  the  northern  boundary  of  Palestine  proper,  and  from 
the  perpetual  summer  of  Ghor  or  Jordan  Valley  can  be  seen 
lifting  up  its  head  to  a  height  where  the  snow  remains  through- 
out the  year.  This  diversity  of  climate  is  due  to  the  physical 
features   of  the  land,   features   peculiar,   indeed   unique.     The 


In  the  Streets  of  Jaffa 


Dead  Sea  lies  1300  feet  below  sea  level.  Mount  Hermon  rises 
9950  feet  above  sea  level.  Between  these  two  extremes  there 
is  variety  enough  to  satisfy  the  most  exacting. 

A  Jerusalem  resident  can  reach  the  region  of  continual 
summer  by  making  a  journey  of  sixteen  miles  to  the  east,  dur- 
ing which  journey  he  will  descend  nearly  4000  feet.  He  can 
reach  the  orange  groves  of  Jaffa,  with  their  soft  Florida  climate, 
after  a  journey  of  forty-three  miles  ;  he  is  only  one  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  from  the  summit  of  Hermon.  In  midsummer  one  can 
stand  on  the  shore  of  the  Dead  Sea  with  the  thermometer  regis- 
tering the  almost  insufferable  heat  of  140°  Pahrenheit,  and  look- 
ing up  the  Jordan  Valley  see  the  snow  fields  on  the  top  of 
Hermon.     In  his  own  city,  2600  feet  above  the  Mediterranean 


174 


Jerosalem  and   Thereabouts 


and  3900  feet  above  the  Dead  Sea,  the  Jerusalemite  has  in 
summer  a  temperature  seldom  rising  above  95°  F"ahrenheit  in 
the  shade,  and  in  midwinter  seldom  going  lower  than  the 
freezing  point,  and  that  only  at  night. 

The  position  of  the  city,  between  the  high  mountains  on 
the  north  and  the  hot  desert  lands  on  the  south  and  east,  ren- 
ders it  subject  to  rather  sudden  changes  of  temperature.  Only 
occasionally,  however,  are  the  changes  severe  enough  to  cause 
suffering  even  among  the  lightly  clad  denizens  of  the  place. 
These  changes  are  now  more  frequent  and  more  severe  than 
they  once  were,  owing  to  the  denuded  condition  of  the  country 


A  Corner  in  Jaffa 

as  regards  forests.  There  is  practically  no  timber  in  any  part 
of  Palestine.  There  arc  some  districts  that  might  be  called 
woodland  in  a  country  where  woods  were  not  abundant,  but 
under  present  conditions  there  is  no  prospect  of  any  increase  in 
timber  growth.  With  an  utter  disregard  of  the  future,  the 
inhabitants  have  in  most  quarters  stripped  the  hills  of  every 
tree.  What  little  fuel  is  necessary  is  procured  by  grubbing  out 
the  roots  of  the  ground  oak  and  the  fragments  of  olive  trees. 
As  for  tree  culture,  there  is  nothing  of  the  kind  practiced.  The 
fact  that  in  Bible  times  the  rainfall  was  more  abundant  and  the 
natural  springs  more  numerous  and  copious,  would  lead  to  the 
inference  that  at  that  time  the  forests  covered  a  considerable 
part  of  the  land. 

Palestine  could  never  have  supported  the  population 
accredited  to  it  at  certain  periods  of  its  history  had  it  always 
been  in  its  present  condition  as  regards  moisture. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


175 


Jerusalem  and  the  neighboring  districts  have  but  two 
seasons,  the  wet  and  the  dry.  "  Seed  time  and  harvest,  cold 
and  heat,  winter  and  summer,"  are  the  Biblical  names.  And 
each  term  is  exact.  The  wet  season  is  tlie  "  seed  time  ;  the 
cold,  the  winter ; "  the  dry  season  is  "ihe  harvest;  the  heat, 
the  summer."  The  early  rains  usually  commence  late  in  Octo- 
ber or  early  in  November.  They  open  the  agricultural  season, 
softening  the  earth  that  has  been  dried  hard  by  the  long  sum- 
mer and  making  it  possible  for  the  husbandman  to  use  his  rude 
plow,  an  implement  which  has  been  in  no  way  improved  since 
the  days  of  the  Patriarchs. 

In  January  and  February  the  heaviest  showers  fall.  In 
March  and  April  come  the  '•  latter  rains  "  of  Scripture. 

During  every  winter  there  are  usually  a  few  days  of 
freezing  weather.  A  thin  coating  of  ice  forms  on  small  pools 
during  the  night,  but  it  disappears  before  the  following  noon. 
Snow  is  an  occasional  and  to  the  natives  a  very  unwelcome 
visitor. 

Summer  begins  about  the  middle  of  May  and  continues 
until  the  last  of  September  or  well  into  October. 

Jerusalem  is  decidedly  a  windy  city.  Her  winds,  while 
sometimes  exceedingly  boisterous  and  careering  over  the 
mountains  at  a  rate  that  would  do  justice  to  a  Dakota  breeze, 
are  her  best  friends.  The  sultry  and  sickening  winds  from  the 
desert  are   fortunately  infrequent.     In  every  part  of  the  city. 


The  Houss  of  Simon  Ihe  Termer 


i76 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


.^^^^ 


.^.. 


^\^- 


but  especially  in  the  low  underground  hovels  of  the  Jewish 
quarter  and  in  some  of  the  narrow,  arched  streets,  fresh  air  can 
always  be  enjoyed.  I  confess  that  it  is  not  always  enjoyed,  for 
the  denizens  of  some  parts  of  the  city  are  so  vile  in  their  habits 

of  life  that  they  seem  to  prefer  the 
odors  of  decaying  vegetable  and 
animal  matter  to  the  combination 
of  fresh  sea   and  mountain    air. 

I  question  if  any  city  in  the 
world  of  its  size  violates  more 
flagrantly  the  primal  laws  of  sanita- 
tion. Regardless  of  these  laws  and 
indifferent  to  their  surroundings 
the  people  in  some  parts  throw  all 
the  refuse  of  their  livinof  into  the 
narrow,  unventilated  streets  and 
allow  it  to  lie  there  exhaling  its 
poisonous  vapors,  until  the  street 
cleaning  brigade,  consisting  of  a 
couple  of  donkeys  and  as  many 
boys,  with  little  more  intelligence 
than  their  long-eared  helpers,  come  along  and  carry  it  off 
to  the  common  dumping  grounds.  To  a  foreigner — even  to 
some  whose  own  cities  are  by  no  means  models  of  cleanliness — 
the  odors  from  some  of  the  Holy  City's  side  streets  are  excru- 
ciating. The  wonder  is  that  such  utter  disregard  of  sanitation 
does  not  frequently  result  in  fatal  epidemics.  But  it  does  not. 
Cholera  is  a  frequent  visitor  to  some  parts  of  the  Turkish 
dominions,  but  for  thirty  years  Jerusalem  has  escaped  its 
ravages.  At  the  report  of  cholera  all  goods  for  some  days  are 
quarantined  and  then  fumigated.  I  have  seen  them  washing 
money  in  the  sea  at  Jaffa  in  order  to  free  it  from  any  clinging 
cholera  bacilli,  while  at  the  same  time  in  the  streets  of  that  city 
and  in  Jerusalem  were  unnoticed  piles  of  decaying,  cholera- 
breeding  matter — a  great  deal  more  likely  to  work  injury  to  the 
inhabitants.  There  are  two  reasons  why  disastrous  results  do 
not  follow  such  negligence  :  the  power  of  the  sun  to  dry  all 
putrefying  matter,  and  the  continual  breezes  that  carry  off  the 
poisonous  gases. 


The  Wei!  of  the  SVIagi 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


Ml 


The  Hill  of  Zion  and  the  Road  from  the  Station 


Nature  has  made  this  a  healthy  city  in  spite  of  the  filthy 
habits  of  the  majority  of  its  inhabitants  and  the  puerility  of  its 
ofificial  class.  Its  high  altitude  and  deep  encompassing  valleys 
counteract  this  carelessness  and  childishness.  Had  Jerusalem 
been  built  on  a  plain  the  habits  of  its  present  population  would 
long  ago  have  depopulated  it,  or,  at  least,  sunk  it  to  the  condition 
of  the  wretched  villages  of  the  maritime  plain.  It  has  a  sewer 
system  of  most  primitive  construction,  which  any  sanitary  engi- 
neer would  pronounce  more  destructive  of,  than  conducive  to, 
health.  This  condition  of  affairs  is  the  wonder  and  disgust  of 
visitors  and  civilized  residents.  Often  have  I  heard  this  or 
similar  remarks  :  "  Well,  of  all  places  I  was  ever  in  this  is  the 
filthiest,  and  can  produce  the  most  villainous  odors.  It  must 
be  one  of  the  most  unhealthy  places  on  earth."  And  yet  the 
climate  in  summer  is  preferable  to  that  of  the  majority  of 
places  in  the  temperate  zone.  The  city's  altitude,  dry  air  and 
proximity  to  the  sea  and  the  mountains,  make  it  something  of  a 
summer  resort.  Many  missionaries  residing  in  the  surrounding 
districts  and  in  Egypt  spend  their  vacations  here,  coming  up 
from  the  plains  and  cities  along  the  Syrian  coast  and  from 
neighboring  villages.  And  they  find  what  they  seek,  rest  and 
a  change  of  climate. 

No  matter  what  the  day  is,  though  it  is  seldom  hot  enough 
to  be  uncomfortable  indoors,  the  nights  are  always  cool.  As 
soon  as  the  sun  dips  into  the  western  sea  coolness  comes  that 


J  78 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


would  be  the  envy  of  our  American  cities  even  in  the  northern 
states.  If  New  York  and  Philadelphia  and  Chicago  could  enjoy 
the  same  temperature  at  night,  fewer  of  their  citizens  would 
need  to  "waste  their  substance  "  in  paying  the  high  rates  of 
seashore,  lake  and  mountain  resorts,  where  they  think  they 
must  go  in  order  to  make  existence  bearable. 

But  the  water,  with  its  impurity  and  scarcity,  is  the  great 
objection.  Still,  nobody  desiring  a  daily  bath  need  go  without  it, 
and  good,  pure  water,  as  healthful  as  any  water  on  earth, 
gushes  out  in  living  springs  from  the  limestone  hills  near 
enough  to  the  city  to  admit  of  its  being  brought  in  and  sold  at 
the  not  too  exorbitant  figure  of  three  cents  per  gallon. 

On  coming  to  Jerusalem  the  visitor  is  struck  by  the  rocky 
character  of  its  surroundings.  In  many  places  on  the  plateau 
on  which  it  stands  the  outcropping  of  the  limestone  is  a  common 
sight.  " 

The  barren  condition  of  the  neighboring  hills  and  valleys, 
and,  in  fact,  of  the  two  hills  on  which  Jerusalem  is  built,  detracts 
much  from  the  beauty  of  the  place.  These  hills  and  valleys 
were  once  carefully  cultivated,  and,  doubtless,  over  them  trees 
and  vines  grew  luxuriously.  Centuries  of  neglect  have  caused 
the  soil  to  be  washed  down  into  the  valleys  and  the  hills  are 
little  more  than  bare  rocks.  Debris  from  the  many  destruc- 
tions Jerusalem  has  suffered  has  also  helped  to  fill  up  the  two 
surrounding  and  one  intersecting  valley. 

The  location  of  the  city  has  been  changed,  or  rather  it 
occupies  but  a  part  of  the  ground  covered  by  the  Jerusalem  of 
Herod  and  his  immediate  successors.  The  old  city,  including 
the  mosque  area,  covers  only  2ogj4  acres.  At  the  time  of  its 
greatest  importance   it   must  have   embraced  within  its   walls 

nearly  three  times 
as  much  territory, 
and,  judging  from 
the  estimates  of  its 
population  at  that 
time,  the  houses 
must  have  been 
even  more  closely 
built  than  now. 


Damascus  Gate 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


179 


cMount  cMoriAh 


The  houses  are  generally  poor  and  patched,  and  have  a 
mottled  and  ancient  appearance.  The  mottled  aspect  is  due  to 
the  fact  that  the  stones  composing  the  walls  have  done  previous 
duty  in  buildings  or  walls  that  have  fallen  before  the  besiegers. 
The  ancient  look  is  genuine  ;  they  are  old  ;  some  of  them  were 
quarried  thousands  of  years  ago. 

The  streets  are  in  no  way  attractive  ;  they  are  narrow, 
tortuous  and  bewildering,  running  here  and  there  with  as  little 
order  and  regularity' as  is  manifested  by  the  average  mortal 
who  passes  along  them.  The  only  thoroughfares  whose  situa- 
tion and  direction  are  capable  of  explanation,  are  David  Street, 
which  runs  east  from  the  Jaffa  Gate  and  makes  connections 
which  lead  out  at  St.  Stephen's  Gate  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  city  ;  Christian  Street,  which  is  the  thoroughfare  from  David 
Street  to  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  ;  and  the  through 
street  leading  from  the  Damascus  Gate  on  the  north  to  Zion's 
Gate  on  the  south.  These  are  streets  ;  the  rest  that  bear  the 
name  are,  in  fact,  something  less  than  alleys  and  something 
more  than  paths.  The  people  who  live  along  the  streets  use 
them  as  receptacles  for  the  refuse  of  their  living.     Sometimes 


J80  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 

this  refuse  remains  for  a  month  and,  being  added  to  continu- 
ally, makes  a  very  uninviting  passage  for  pedestrians.  The 
habits  of  the  Arab  and  Jew  residents  are  most  abominable  and 
actions  violating  common  decency  are  tolerated — actions  which 
in  any  city  whose  authorities  had  any  regard  for  the  appearance 
or  health  of  the  community  would  land  their  perpetrators  in 
jail.  Here  such  punishment  would  be  considered  a  blow  at 
personal  freedom  and,  therefore,  resented  with  great  posi- 
tiveness. 

The  residences  are  small,  ill-ventilated  and  poorly  lighted. 
The  inhabitants  live  in  crowded  quarters  and  seem  to  object  to 
fresh  air.  There  are  spots  in  Moslem  Jerusalem  too  awful  to 
be  described.  There  are  houses,  however,  of  very  commodi- 
ous and  respectable  appearance  in  each  of  the  three  quarters 
of  Jerusalem,  where  it  may  be  seen  that  those  who  reside  there 
have  some  ideas  as  to  the  comforts  of  life. 

In  the  various  convents,  schools  and  buildings,  used  as 
residences  for  the  orders  of  the  clergy  and  the  various  churches, 
there  is  also  comfort  and  plenty.  Some  of  these,  together  with 
the  churches  in  connection,  are  very  handsome  pieces  of  archi- 
tecture and  would  be  ornaments  to  any  city  of  the  western  world. 

Out  of  the  2ogj4  acres  occupied  by  the  city  thirty-five 
must  be  taken  for  the  enclosure  of  the  great  Mosque.  At 
least  as  much  more  is  occupied  by  military  barracks  and  fully  as 
much  is  the  private  and  unoccupied  land  of  the  various  reli- 
gious orders.  Subtracting  from  what  remains  that  on  which 
stand  the  churches  and  other  buildings  not  used  as  homes, 
it  leaves  something  less  than  one  hundred  acres  of  ground  to 
furnish  the  homes  and  the  places  of  busin-ess  for  a  population 
approximating  thirty  thousand. 

The  stores  and  shops  are  very  primitive,  but  the  methods 
of  doing  business  are  something  to  be  wondered  at.  Along 
Jew  Street  which  is  in  the  centre  of  the  city  and  runs  south 
from  David  Street,  can  be  seen  on  any  day,  but  Saturday,  a 
sight  which  for  variety  of  dress,  language,  features  and  goods, 
cannot  be  paralleled.  The  stores  are  minute,  some  of  them 
having  only  a  few  feet  each  way  ;  the  largest  not  more  than  ten 
feet  wide  by  fourteen  long.  The  way  the  goods  are  packed  in, 
however,  and  the  amount  that  can  be  exhibited  to  a  probable 
purchaser  is  wonderful  to  the  uninitiated. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


J8I 


Another  characteristic,  and  perhaps  the  most  striking  one, 
of  Jerusalem  is  the  religious  aspect.  It  holds  easily  the  title  of 
the  Holy  City  for  this  reason,  if  for  no  other.  Look  in  any 
direction  you  may  and  you  will  see  the  roof  of  mosque,  steeple 
of  church  or  dome  of  synagogue,  and  here  and  there  the  tall 
minaret  overlookinjif  all.  The  largest  of  the  churches  is  that 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  but  there  are  at  least  twenty-five  others. 
The  largest  of  the  synagogues  is  that  known  as  Khal  Stamboul, 
or  Congregation  of  Constantinople,  but  there  are  two  hundred 
others  scattered  throughout  the  town.  The  largest  of  the 
mosques  is  the  El  Aksa  on  Mount  Moriah,  but  there  are  inferior 
ones  to  the  number  of  thirty-seven.  Added  to  these  are  the 
religious  and  eleemosynary  institutions  of  priests  and  monks 
and  nuns.  At  nearly  every  hour  some  of  the  numerous  bells 
are  ringing  the  call  to  service.  At  stated  intervals,  namely,  at 
dawn,  noon,  middle  of  the  afternoon,  sunset,  and  at  one  and  a 
half  hours  after  sunset,  the  muezzin  call  is  given  "  from  the 
tapering  summit  of  tall  minaret,"  and  the  faithful  Moslem 
obeys. 


^he  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre 


182  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 

For  centuries  the  city  and  land  have  been  under  Moslem 
rule.  The  nominal  head  of  the  local  government  is  a  pasha, 
who  is  appointed  by  the  Sultan.  It  depends  altogether  upon 
the  character  of  the  pasha  whether  he  shall  be  anything  more 
than  a  nominal  head.  The  inferior  officials  can  have  only  as 
much  power  as  the  pasha  allows  them.  They  constitute  a  sort 
of  municipal  council,  and  consist  of  nine  Moslems,  one  Jew  and 
one  Christian.  This  is  an  exceedingly  unfair  division,  seeing 
that  the  Moslem  body  is  the  smallest. 

In  the  way  of  amusement  there  is  nothing,  not  a  place 
where  an  exhibition  of  any  kind  can  be  given,  were  there  any- 
thing worth  exhibiting  ;  not  an  opera  nor  a  play  ;  not  even  a 
concert,  from  one  year  s  end  to  the  other.  Lectures  are  occa- 
sionally given  in  the  tourist  season  under  the  auspices  of  the 
local  branch  of  the  Palestine  Exploration  Society.  For  the  rest 
of  the  year  the  town  closes  at  sundown.  The  only  places  that 
keep  open  after  this  hour  are  a  couple  of  German  beer-halls 
and  some  Arab  coffee-shops.  The  streets  are  deserted  by 
humanity,  and  all  is  quiet  until  daybreak,  except  the  canine  part 
of  the  population. 

Wonderful  is  the  transformation  that  comes  over  the  city 
when  night  falls.  The  people  have  nothing  to  stay  up  for,  so 
they  retire  early.  The  natives  are  early  risers  ;  they  may  have 
nothing  to  do,  but  no 'matter  ;  they  are  up  before  the  sun. 

There  is  no  street  lighting  in  Jerusalem  save  twenty-eight 
small  oil  lamps  stuck  up  here  and  there  on  the  sides  of  the 
houses.  They  are  uncared  for,  and  on  a  dark  night  do  nothing 
more  than  indicate  that  they  are  lighted. 

There  are  no  telephones,  and  not  likely  soon  to  be  any. 
An  American  missionary,  who  had  charge  of  some  schools  sev- 
eral miles  away,  and  with  which  it  was  necessary  for  him  to 
have  frequent  converse,  had  a  telephone  sent  to  him.  When 
he  proceeded  to  put  it  in  condition  for  service  a  Turkish  officer 
was  sent  to  make  inquiries.  The  affair  and  the  benefit  of  it 
were  explained  to  him,  and  he  went  away  and  reported  it  to  his 
superiors.  Word  soon  came  to  the  progressive  missionary  that 
he  must  desist  in  its  operation.  Such  an  innovation  could  not 
be  allowed  unless  he  had  an  order  from  the  Sultan.  He  had  no 
such  order,  and  was  in  no  mood  to  pay  the  sum  necessary  to 
obtain  it.  The  telephone  has  been  lying  unused  for  several 
years. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


t83 


The  new  city  of  Jerusalem,  outside  of  the  walls,  has  grown 
up  within  the  last  twenty-five  years.  This  is  not  a  very  rapid 
growth,  if  it  be  compared  with  some  of  our  western  cities,  but 
it  is  rapid  for  this  part  of  the  world,  especially  that  on  which  the 
throttling  Turk  has  his  grip.  In  a  country  whose  government 
discourages  all  progress  by 
taxing  every  improvement 
beyond  the  benefit  it  can 
bring  to  the  one  making  it, 
that  discriminates  against 
certain  classes  of  its  popu- 
lation and  prohibits  the 
entrance  of  many  new  set- 
tlers, the  rapid  advance 
of  the  city  is  a  cause  for 
wonder. 

On  the  highest  part  of  the 
ridge  of  the  new  city,  outside  the 
old  walls,  stands  the  consulate  of 
our  own  crreat  nation,  and  when 
the     "Stars     and     Stripes"     are  n,  Tcmts  of  the  Km^s 

floating    they    can    be    seen    from 

nearly  every  part  of  the  city.  That  flag  of  a  nation  undreamed 
of  two  hundred  years  ago  waves  over  this  city  that  counts  its 
age  by  decades  of  centuries,  yet  represents  a  civilization  as  far 
in  advance  of  what  it  sees  as  the  parlor-car  is  in  advance  of  the 
camel  as  a  method  of  travel. 

In  this  New  Jerusalem  the  air  is  always  pure.  This  is  a 
matter  about  which  tourists  can  afford  to  be  unconcerned  for  a 
time,  but  which  residents  must  consider.  Because  of  its  com- 
pact nature,  the  narrowness  of  its  streets  and  its  lack  of  proper 
drainage,  the  old  city  has  at  times  a  woeful  lack  of  fresh  air. 
But  on  the  high  land  on  the  north  there  is  never  any  want  of 
this  preventive  of  fever  and  other  diseases.  It  comes  up  moist 
from  the  Mediterranean,  and  fragrant  with  the  odors  of  the 
hills,  or  down  from  the  high  Lebanon  country  bearing  refresh- 
ment and  invigoration. 

This  new  Jerusalem  grows  by  accessions  from  every  part 
of  the  globe.  On  its  streets  "all  sorts  and  conditions''  of  Jews 
and    Gentiles   meet  and    pass    one    another.      They    may  be 


J84 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


strang-ers  to  each  other  and  ignorant  of  the  part  they  are  play- 
ing, but  I  cannot  resist  the  behef  that  each  is  doing  his  part  in 
God's  plan  for  the  rebuilding  of  the  city  and  its  enlargement 
far  beyond  the.  borders  it  has  occupied  in  the  past. 

Three  centuries  and  a  half  have  tested  the  present  walls 
of  Jerusalem,  and  work  that  even  in  times  of  peace  will  endure 
through  so  many  years  is  in  no  danger  of  losing  by  comparison 
with  similar  work  done  to-day.  Sulieman,  the  Magnificent,  was 
the  builder  of  the  present  wall  and  that  he  was  not  ashamed  of 
his  achievement  is  attested  by  the  inscriptions  found  on  several 
of  the  city  gates.     The  date  of  their  erection  was  1536  to  1542. 


The  Mosque  of  Omar 

The  Jaffa  gate  is  the  most  convenient  starting  place  for 
making  a  tour  of  the  walls.  This  gate  is  called  by  the  natives 
the  Gate  of  the  Friend,  because  from  it  travelers  from  the  city 
go  to  Hebron,  the  place  of  Abraham  the  Friend  of  God.  The 
road  from  Jaffa  meets  the  Hebron  road  here,  making  this  the 
most  important  entrance  to  the  city.  A  crowd  of  carriages, 
donkeys  and  shouting  men  are  always  near  and  a  constant 
stream  of  varied  and  variegated  humanity  is  passing  in  and  out. 
At  the  present  day  the  large  gates  of  the  city  are  never  closed. 
At  any  hour  of  the  day  or  night  one  can  come  and  go  as  he 
will,  provided  only  that  at  night  he  must  carry  a  lantern  or 
explain  its  absence  to  the  police. 

The  average  height  of  the  walls  about  Jerusalem  is  about 
forty  feet,  but  they  seem  irregular  owing  to  the  immense 
amounts  of  debris  that  have  been  allowed  to  accumulate. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


t85 


Inierior  of  the  Mosque  of  Omar 


The  measurement  of  the  entire  city  wall  is  two  and  a  half 
miles.  To  walk  the  distance  gives  one  a  very  good  idea  of  the 
general  topography  of  the  place,  and  of  the  neighboring  hills 
and  valleys  and  villages.  The  walls  are  no  longer  useful  for 
protection,  they  can  hardly  be  called  ornamental ;  they  add  to 
the  city's  quaintness  and  picturesqueness,  and  for  this  reason 
only  it  is  to  be  hoped  they  will  remain. 

Of  the  population  of  Jerusalem  one  must  speak  in  few 
words.  There  is  no  question  of  the  slow  increase  of  the  Jews 
in  spite  of  the  rigorous  prohibition  and  strict  passport  regula- 
tions. Of  the  85,000  Jews  from  nearly  every  country  on  earth 
now  in  Palestine,  fully  one-half  are  living  within  the  walls  of 
Jerusalem  or  in  the  23  colonies  that  cluster  just  outside  the 
walls.  The  list  of  strangers  in  the  city  on  the  day  of  Pentecost, 
as  described  in  the  second  chapter  of  the  Acts  of  the  Apostles, 
can  be  duplicated  to-day  and  increased  by  the  names  of  many 
lands  and  nations  of  which  history  was  not  cognizant. 

In  numbers  the  Hebrew  nation  is  respectable,  in  wealth 
and  abilities  it  is  wonderful.  A  sense  of  what  it  is,  is  compel- 
ling it  to  think  of  what  it  might  be  and  to  discuss  the  methods 
of  fulfilling  its  destiny.  In  these  discussions  Palestine  is  com- 
ing into   prominence  and   the   formerly   indifferent   are   made 


ii6  lerusalem  and   Thereafcouts 

"  Lovers  of  Zion."  Israel  needs  a  home,  a  land  he  can  call  his 
own,  a  city  where  he  can  work  out  his  salvation.  He  has  none 
of  these  now.  His  present  home  is  among  strangers,  people 
with  whom  he  has  little  sympathy  and  who  have  little  for  him. 
The  lands  in  which  he  lives  are  not  his  own,  though  he  has 
frequently  shed  his  blood  for  their  preservation.  The  cities  he 
has  helped  to  build  are  not  his,  they  never  can  be.  Israel's 
hope  of  a  home  land  is  possible  of  realization,  but  it  will  be 
realized  only  in  Palestine. 

There  are  obstacles  in  the  way  which  will  not  be  removed 
to-day  or  to-morrow  ;  that  they  can  be  removed  is  enough. 
There  is  coming  a  time  when  Israel  shall  "  no  more  be  termed 
forsaken  "  nor  his  "  land  any  more  be  termed  desolate."  Then 
Jerusalem  shall  be  called  "  Sought  out,  a  city  not  forsaken." 

Of  the  entire  Christian  population  of  Jerusalem  nearly  one 
half  are  adherents  of  the  Greek  Orthodox  Church,  the  wealthiest 
and  most  influential  of  all.  Next  in  order  are  the  Roman 
Catholics,  who  number  three  thousand  two  hundred,  and  who, 
as  a  Church,  are  by  no  means  poor  in  this  world's  goods.  The 
following  list  will  give  a  concise  idea  of  the  various  Christiart 
bodies  : 

Greek  Orthodox       .              .              ,              .  4000 

Roman  Catholic               .              .              .  3200 

Armenian    .....  600 

Protestants  (all  forms)    .              .              .  500 
Coptic          .              .              .              .              .120 

Greek  Catholic                .             .             .  100 

Abyssinian  .....  60 

Syrian    .              .    '          .              .              .  50 


Total         ....  8630 

It  is  very  easy  to  obtain  funds  for  chanty  in  Jerusalem. 
The  very  name  of  the  place  appeals  to  all  the  Jewish  and 
Christian  world,  and  the  amounts  of  money  that  come  in  for  the 
regularly  organized  missionary  and  charitable  societies,  as  well 
as  for  private  independent  workers,  are  truly  surprising.  For 
the  amount  of  work  done,  as  well  as  results  accompHshed,  there 
is  more  money  spent  in  the  Holy  City  than  in  any  other  city  on 
earth.     And  a  great  part  of  that  money  comes  from  America. 

It  would  be  doing  a  great  injustice  to  many  faithful  men 
and  women  to  criticise  without  reservation  all  the  mission  work 
that  is  being  done.     Even  though  it  is  open  to  criticism,  I  shall 


^ 


g 

3' 


188  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 

have  to  leave  that  for  those  professional  critics  of  Christian 
missions  who  are  all  too  ready  to  publish  their  ignorance  and 
are  all  too  readily  believed. 

This  must  be  said  of  the  majority  of  Protestant  Christian 
Avorkers,  that  they  are  faithfully  living  and  preaching  the  Gospel 
of  the  Master  as  they  believe  it.  They  are  teaching  these 
people  how  to  live  for  this  world  as  well  as  for  that  which  is 
to  come. 

It  should  be  borne  in  mind  also  that  those  who  are  here 
doing  the  Master's  work,  as  they  see  it,  have  one  of  the  hardest 
fields  in  the  world  to  work.  Christianity  is  no  new  thing  to 
these  people,  but  the  Christianity  of  Christ  is.  It  is  true  that 
the  apparent  results  are  small,  but  they  are  substantial. 

The  "  Houses  of  Industry,"  where  young  men  are  taught 
some  useful  trade,  are  in  themselves  a  blessing.  These  young 
Arabs  go  out  to  the  different  villages  scattered  over  the  land, 
able  to  do  something  more  than  pass  their  time  in  idleness. 
They  also  have  some  idea  of  what  the  true  religion  of  Jesus  is, 
even  if  they  do  not  brave  the  ridicule  and  possible  dangers  that 
a  public  profession  of  It  would  bring  upon  them.  There  are 
girls  in  the  mission  schools  who  are  taught  ideas  of  cleanliness 
and  get  valuable  lessons  in  home-making.  This  Is  work  that 
will  tell  in  the  coming  generation.  The  casual  visitor,  who 
comes  to  the  city  for  a  few  days,  and  spends  those  days  in  sight- 
seeing, among  which  the  mission  work  is  not  included,  and  then 
goes  away  to  answer  any  who  may  question,  is  likely  to  answer 
there  is  very  little  of  such  work  being  done.  All  that  such 
people  need  is  an  object  lesson  showing  what  these  boys  and 
girls  were  when  they  entered  the  schools,  or  Houses  of  Industry, 
and  what  they  are  when  they  leave  to  take  their  places  in  the 
world. 

It  would  take  a  volume  to  tell  of  the  "crank"  population 
counted  among  the  Christians  mistakenly,  diseased  religionists 
from  Europe  or  America,  and  who  bring  true  religion  into  disre- 
pute. Of  oriental  Christianity  this  may  be  said,  that  it  is  little 
else  than  lifeless  form,  and  to  "preach  the  gospel"  seems  to  be 
no  part  of  the  labor  of  its  numerous  clergy.  Their  work  is  to 
care  for  the  holy  places,  look  after  their  large  property  interests 
in  and  near  the  city,  see  that  their  privileges  are  not  infringed 
upon  by  other  sects,  repeat  their  prayers  and  live  comfortably. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


J  89 


A  list  of  the  numerous  buildings  possessed  by  the  Greeks 
that  Is,  the  State  Russian  Church,  devoted  to  relig-ious,  educa- 
tional or  charitable  purposes,  gives  color  to  the  belief  that  her 
diplomats  are  using  this  arm  of  her  established  church  to 
increase  Russian  power  and  influence.  The  mission  seems  to 
be  to  Russianize  the  land  rather  than  to  Christianize  the  people. 


Lepers 


The  Latin  church,  or  the  Roman  Catholic  Church,  is  a  mission- 
ary institution,  and  its  priests  do  not  lose  sight  of  that  fact. 
Each  one  of  them  is  a  missionary,  and  wherever  he  is  holds  in 
mind  his  commission  to  make  Latin  Christianity  supreme. 
The  various  orders  of  monks  and  nuns,  with  their  schools 
and  orphanages  and  infirmaries  for  taking  care  of  the  children 
and  the  women  and  the  sick,  indicate  their  wisdom  for  the 
future.  The  church  that  employs  such  enginery  is  bound  to 
progress,  and  the  one  that  does  not  is  sure  to  be  surpassed. 


im* 


190  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 

The  Latins  are  caring  not  only  for  the  children  of  Latin  parents, 
but  are  providing  education  for  children  of  the  Greek  and  other 
churches. 

The  Armenians  have  an  extensive  properly  on  Mount 
Zion  near  the  Tower  of  David.  The  other  oriental  churches 
are  rather  poor. 

The  Church  of  England,  that  is  the  Episcopal  church, 
represented  by  the  Church  Missionary  Society  and  the  London 
Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Christianity  among  the  Jews,  car- 
ries on  the  most  extensive  mission  work  done  by  the  Protestants. 
It  confines  itself  to  the  native  population  and  works  in  the  neigh- 
boring villages  as  well  as  in  Jerusalem.  For  the  number  of 
workers  the  results  appear  very  small,  and  when  one  compares 
the  amount  of  money  expended  with  these  small  results  the 
wonder  is  that  the  supporters  of  the  work  do  not  become  dis- 
couraged and  apply  the  money  here  used  to  more  appreciative 
people  in  other  parts  of  the  world. 

The  Church  Missionary  Society  [of  this  church]  employs 
in  all  about  twenty  workers.  These  are  preachers,  teachers  and 
house-to-house  visitors.  Services  in  Arabic  are  held  every 
Sunday  in  St.  Paul's  Church  north  of  the  city.  There  is  a  boys' 
boarding  school,  founded  by  Bishop  Gobat,  where  about  seventy 
boys  are  educated.  This  society  also  conducts  a  day  school  for 
boys  and  girls. 

The  "  London  Jews'  Society  "  [of  this  church,  also]  owns 
the  handsome  stone  church  on  Mount  Zion,  just  opposite  the 
Tower  of  David.  Services  are  held  every  Sunday  and  are  in 
English  and  Hebrew.  A  fine  boys'  school  adjoins  the  church, 
where  children  of  Jewish  parentage  are  cared  for.  To  the  north 
of  the  city  is  the  girls'  school  of  this  society,  which  is  ably  con- 
ducted and  possesses  the  best  equipped  school  building  in 
Palestine,  with  the  exception  of  the  American  Friends'  School 

at  Ramallah.  Under  the  care  of 
tlie  society  is  also  a  "  House  of 
Industry,"  where  young  prose- 
lytes are  taught  useful  trades, 
and  just  now  there  is  being 
erected  a  magnificent  new  hos- 
pital a  short  distance  north  of 
the  British  Consulate. 


Lepers 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


i9i 


Between  the  English  and  the  Germans  a  great  charitable 
work  has  been  done  by  means  of  hospitals  and  dispensaries. 
The  German  Lepers'  Hospital,  southwest  of  the  city,  is  most 
worthy  of  mention.  The  form  of  leprosy  that  may  now  be  seen 
all  too  frequently  in  the  environs  of  Jerusalem  is  not  the  same 
as  that  of  Bible  times.  Hideously  repulsive  as  the  victims  of 
it  are,  and  fatal  as  are  its  results,  it  is  not  contagious.     There 


In  the  Garden   of  Gethsemam 

is  no  doubt  that  it  could  be 
stamped  out  in  a  single  genera- 
tion,   if    the    authorities    would 

seclude  the  infected  ones  and  prevent  any  of  them  from 
marrying.  The  disease  is  hereditary,  and  the  children  of 
afflicted  parents  are  sure  to  have  it  sooner  or  later. 

On  the  fine  property  owned  by  the  Evangelical  Germans 
has  lately  been  erected,  dedicated  and  consecrated,  the  Emperor 
of  Germany  making  the  long  journey  for  the  sole  purpose  of 
being  present  at  that  ceremony,  a  beautiful  church.  After  a 
full  recital  of  the  Christian  institutions  and  labors  in  and  about 
Jerusalem  one  unacquainted  with  the  place  might  look  for  the 
immediate  conversion  to  Christianity  of  all  non-Christians.  But 
it  must  be  said  that  there  is  no  place  in  the  world  where  indif- 


t92  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 

ference  and  opposition  are  so  manifest.  Indifference  is  the  atti- 
tude of  the  Moslem,  while  opposition  characterizes  the  Jew. 
The  results  of  the  mission  work  are  necessarily  small,  and  will 
be  so  as  long  as  there  is  so  much  called  by  the  name  of  Christ 
that  is  unlovely  and  false,  and  in  some  instances,  despicable. 
Here,  as  elsewhere,  Christianity  is  judged  by  its  fruits,  and  so 
much  of  the  product  is  undesirable  that  the  whole  is  refused, 
liefore  the  indifference  can  be  changed  to  interest  and  the  oppo- 
sition to  favor,  there  must  be  a  radical  change  in  the  Christian 
Church.  It  must  return  to  the  Christianity  of  Christ,  exhibiting 
less  of  outward  form  and  more  of  love.  Until  that  change  is 
made — when  dead  form  will  give  place  to  genuine  Christian 
living — the  results  can  be  no  greater.  At  present  the  time 
given  to  this  work  is  almost  wasted,  and  the  money  spent  well 
nigh  lost. 

My  own  belief  is  that  the  time  is  not  far  distant  when  Pal- 
estine will  be  in  the  hands  of  a  people  who  will  restore  it  to  its 
former  condition  of  productiveness.  The  land  is  waiting,  the 
people  are  ready  to  come  and  will  come  as  soon  as  protection 
to  life  and  property  is  assured.  I  am  ready  to  go  further  and 
say  that  the  coming  inhabitants  will  be  Jews.  This  must  be 
accepted,  or  the  numerous  prophecies  that  assert  it  so  posi- 
tively must  be  thrown  out  as  worthless 

The  present  movements  among  Jews  in  many  parts  of  the 
world  indicate  their  belief  in  the  prophetic  assertions.  Their 
eyes  are  turning  toward  ihe  land  that  once  was  theirs,  and  their 
hearts  are  longing  for  the  day  when  they  as  a  people  can  dwell 
securely  in  it.  With  every  improvement  of  the  country  the  city 
of  Jerusalem  must  improve.  It  will  always  be  the  centre  of 
Palestine.  Should  an  independent  nation  arise  and  occupy  the 
land,  as  it  once  did,  we  should  see  history  being  repeated  and 
Jerusalem  a  city  of  prominence.  There  are  physical  obstacles 
that  would  have  to  be  overcome,  but  they  are  not  so  great  as 
has  been  often  assumed  and  asserted.  There  is  room  for  a  large 
city.  The  Plain  of  Rephaim  as  far  south  as  the  Convent  of 
Saint  Elias — half  way  to  Bethlehem — is  admirably  adapted  to 
city  construction.  The  broad  plateau  on  the  north,  now  being 
rapidly  built  over,  is  all  that  could  be  desired  for  residence  sites. 
There  is  ample  room  for  a  large  city. 


I 


Jerosatcm  and   Thereabouts 


193 


The  Garden  of  Oeihsemane  and  the  Mount  of  Olives 

There  is  something  more  needed  than  room,  however  ; 
there  must  be  means  of  support  for  the  people.  These  means 
are  at  hand,  but,  as  already  mentioned,  they  are  undeveloped. 
Rich  mineral  deposits  have  been  discovered,  but  work  upon 
them  has  been  abandoned  because  of  the  paralyzing  policy  of 
the  government.  Copper  and  tin  have  been  found  ;  coal  e.xists 
in  paying  quantities  in  the  Lebanon  and  near  Sidon  ;  at  the 
former  mines  the  coal  is  of  good  quality,  and  12,000  tons  were 
at  one  time  mined,  then  the  works  were  abandoned. 

With  the  introduction  of  railways  these  fields  would  all  be 
worked  and  made  to  pay.     There  are  large  mineral  deposits  in 


J94 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


Gilead  and  Moab,  and  along  the  shores  of  the  Dead  Sea. 
Petroleum  is  said  by  experts  to  exist  in  abundance  in  the  south- 
ern part  of  the  Jordan  valley.  There  are  salt  deposits  in  and 
near  the  Dead  Sea  sufficient  to  supply  the  world's  demands. 
All  this  wealth  of  minerals  is  of  no  value  now,  but  once  capital 
is  assured  of  safe  investment  the  present  death  will  give  place 
to  activity.     In  such  an  event  Jerusalem  would  be  the  natural 


*'  Hie  de  Virgine  Mark  'J^sus  Christus  N^tus  Esi  " 


manufacturing  centre,  and  could  not  only  supply  her  own 
demands,  but  be  able  to  compete  with  other  manufacturing 
cities  in  the  markets  of  the  world. 

It  is  very  certain  that  Mohammedanism  will  have  nothing 
to  do  with  the  city's  future.  Its  six  hundred  years  of  posses- 
sion and  its  present  deplorable  condition  warrant  the  assertion. 
Jerusalem  has  been  ground  under  the  heel  of  Moslem  oppres- 
sors, in  spite  of  the  fact  that  as  a  holy  city  it  is  with  them 
second  only  to  Mecca.  It  would  still  be  in  the  same  deplorable 
condition  were  the  Christian  nations  and  their  many  Jewish 
subjects  not  becoming  so  much  interested  in  it.  Quiedy  the 
Jew  and  the  Christian  have  been  getting  possession  of  desirable 


I 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts  J95 

building  sites  and  erecting  substantial  structures.  Less  than 
half  of  the  city  within  the  walls  is  owned  by  Moslems,  while 
hardly  any  of  the  new  city  outside  the  walls  is  now  in  their  hands. 
This  desire  to  acquire  Jerusalem  real  estate,  a  desire  that  ani- 
mates Christians  and  Jews  gives  a  strong  indication  of  what 
the  city  of  the  future  is  to  be.  Its  destiny  is  bound  up  with 
religion.  For  similar  reasons  Christian  and  Jew  love  it  ;  to 
each  it  is  holy  for  what  it  has  been  ;  it  will  become  holier  and 
greater  still.  —  From  "^  yertisalein  tJic  Holy''  by  special  permission 
of  the  mithor,  the  Hon,  Ediidn  S.  Wallace,  late  United  States 
Consul  for  Palestine. 


My  Irreverent  Donkey  at  Olivet 

"The  next  day  we  went  to  Olivet  and  Gethsemane.  I  sup- 
pose it  was  all  accident  that  I  was  given  the  donkey  I  rode,  but 
it  was  an  unfortunate  accident  for  me.  I  am  small  and  was 
dressed  in  black.  He  was  a  very  small  Jack,  and  was  dressed 
in  black  also,  so  it  seemed  quite  appropriate,  but  I  am  sorry  to 
say  that  he  had  no  respect  for  'the  cloth,'  and  behaved  in  a  very 
frivolous  and  unseemly  manner,  calling  needless  attention  to 
himself  and  me,  and  causing  certain  wordly  people  to  laugh, 
in  spite  of  the  journey  we  were  taking.  First  he  insisted  on 
rushing  up  to  the  front  of  the  procession  and  getting  ahead  of 
the  guide.  When  I  became  indignant  at  his  lack  of  modesty, 
and  reined  him  in  strongly,  then  he  went  to  the  side  of  the 
road,  up  to  a  stone  wall,  and  began  to  make  preparations  to 
brush  me  off  his  back.  When  I  finally  persuaded  him  to  stop 
that,  then  he  undertook  to  arrange  the  company  to  suit  himself. 
Whenever  he  saw  a  couple  riding  close  together  (a  man  and 
his  wife,  for  instance,)  he  would  rush  upon  them  from  behind, 
and  push  and  butt  his  way  between  them,  till  he  got  them  sepa- 
rated far  enough  to  meet  his  ideas,  leaving  me  to  apologize. 
With  a  curb  bit  and  a  club  I  might,  perhaps,  have  restrained  him, 
but,  as  it  was,  he  had  things  pretty  much  his  own  way,  and  he 
made  the  most  of  it.  I  think  the  only  reason  that  he  did 
not  throw  me  over  his  head,  was  that  he  was  so  busy  looking 
after  the  rest  of  the  party,  that  it  did  not  occur  to  him  to  do  it. 
He  brought  me  to  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  in  a  very  differ- 
ent frame  of  mind  from  what  I  desired." — Spencer. 


i96  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


Entrance  to  the  Quarries  of  Solomon 

The  Quarries  of  Solomon 
"  A  little  north  of  the  Damascus  Gate  the  surface  of  the 
rock,  which  originally  rose  into  a  considerable  ridge,  is  cut  down 
on  a  line  with  the  outside  of  the  city  wall,  which  passes  over  it. 
Under  the  arching  strata  is  a  narrow  doorway,  shored  up  with 
blocks  of  stone  in  a  solid  wall.  Provided  with  necessary 
authority  and  guides,  we  enter.  The  way  descends  sharply, 
broadening  out  finally  into  a  great  cavern,  the  roof  supported 
by  piers  of  solid  rock. 

Great  blocks  of  stone  lie  about ;  some  as  they  were  taken 
from  the  walls,  others  with  sides  smooth,  as  prepared  for  the 
building.  Vertical  slots  cut  deep  into  the  rock  by  some  sharp 
instrument,  possibly  like  a  laborer's  pick-ax,  indicate  the  means 
by  which  the  great  cubes  were  separated  from  the  parent  mass  ; 
for  into  these  clefts  blocks  of  wood  were  driven,  on  which  water 
was  poured,  causing  them  to  expand  with  an  irresistible  force 
and  split  the  rock  asunder. 

There  is  a  tradition  among  masons  that  in  these  caverns, 
so  deep  under  the  earth  that  there  could  not  come  from  them  the 
sound  of  ax,  hammer  or  other  metal  tools,  the  stones  of  the 
Beautiful  Temple  were  cut,  squared  and  numbered,  and  con- 
veyed thence  through  some  passage  now  lost  to  knowledge, 
direct  to  the  temple  area  to  be  placed  in  position  under  the 
supervision  of  the  widow's  son  ;  also  that  here  freemasonry 
began,  and  the  first  rites  of  the  mystic  brotherhood  were  enacted 
in  one  of  these  vaulted  chambers  when  operative  masons  alone — 
and  of  such  only  those  who  hnd  passed  through  the  great  ordeal 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


J97 


with  becoming  fortitude — joined  in  solemn  commemoration  of 
the  tragedy  in  which  they  had  themselves  taken  a  part,  and  which, 
with  its  lessons  and  symbols,  was  to  be  enacted  in  after  times 
in  every  land,  and  in  almost  every  tongue  on  the  face  of  the 
earth.  Here  the  masons  [of  the  Aller^  who  from  the  far  west 
had  traveled  east  to  the  birth-place  of  the  order,  under  flaring 
lights  and  with  the  dark  approaches  duly  tiled,  joined  with  their 
eastern  brethren  in  the  mystic  ceremonies  of  the  Mother  Lodge. 
What  transpired  there  is  no  secret — to  those  who  are  entitled 
to  the  knowledge." — From  Stoddard' s  ''Crtiiseof  the  Friesland." 


The  Tomb  of  Absalom 


Description  of  the  Masonic  Meeting  in  the  Quarries  of  Solomon 

"  It  was  on  March  15th,  the  clouds  hung  low  over  the  hills 
of  the  Holy  City  and  dripped  their  mist  as  though  they  always 
thus  wept  in  silence,  that  the  Masons  of  the  Alter  party,  who 
hold  sacred  their  oath,  revere  the  ties  that  bind  the  mystic 
brotherhood  and  love  that  which  bears  on  either  myth  or  history 
of  their  order,  were  bidden  to  go  to  the  Quarries  of  Solomon. 

just  opposite  the  Grotto  of  Jeremiah  and  within  near  eye- 
shot of  the  Holy  Place  of  the  Skull,  to  which  most  modern 
explorers  point  as  the  true  Golgotha,  and  on  beyond  the  Valley 
of  Jehosophat,  with  the  Mount  of  Olives  as  a  shadow  above 
between  earth  and  sky,  there  is  a  hole  in  the  foundation  of  the 
old  city  walls.  If  the  Turkish  Imam  is  gracious,  he  may  grant 
a  dispensation  to  the  dog  of  a  Giaour  so  that  he  may  pass  the 
heavy  wooden  barricade  through  which  we  enter  the  eternal 
bowels  of  the  ancient  town.  The  entrance  is  insignificant,  but 
that  which  is  entered  is  sublime  and  awful.     There  are  galleries 


J  98 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


Church  of  the  Lord's  Prayer 


of  wide  extent,  and  the  vaulted  rooms  lose  the  eye  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  flickering  light  of  torch  or  candle.  This  is  where 
tradition,  abetted  not  weakly  or  idly  by  history,  avers  that  the 
stones   for  the   first  temple   of  Solomon  and  the  subsequent 

temples  as  well  were  obtained. 

May  be  it  was  thirty  centuries  ago 
that  the  workers  hewed  and  chipped  and 
polished  great  cubes  of  stone  in  the  gloom, 
all  silence  save  for  the  clinking  noise  of 
the  tools.  Great  heaps  of  stone  chippings 
and  debris  and  rubbish  of  the  quarry 
remain,  in  some  places  thirty  feet  deep. 
At  many  places  the  huge  stones  are 
seemingly  finished,  but  have  been  rejected 
and  left  there  because  of  some  slight  flaw 
that  did  not  escape  the  eye  of  the 
exacting  overseer. 
Elsewhere  the  cubes  are  in  the  rough  or  half  smoothed, 
while  in  the  walls  at  many  places  are  blocks  partially  cut  out. 
On  this  afternoon  only  those  who  knew  the  cabalistic  words 
could  enter,  but  once  in  the  dark  chambers,  so  like  silent  halls 
of  death,  only  relieved  by  muffled  footfalls  and  the  uncertain 
light  of  small  candles  or  lamps  of  olive  oil  held  by  each  visitor, 
the  brothers  seemed  bound  by  a  tie  of  newest  and  most  realistic 
meaning.  Here  the  wondrous  great  first  Master  presided,  and 
so  in  careful  imitation  the  officers  of  Solomon  Mother  Lodge, 
No.  293,  of  Jerusalem,  held  a  meeting  in  honor  of  the  American 
masons  of  the  Aller.  It  was  a  deeply  solemn  occasion.  The 
lodge  was  opened  in  due  form,  the  brothers  kneeling  and  then 
standing  in  a  circle,  and  after  speeches  from  Occident  and 
orient  and  words  from  polaris  to  the  southern  cross  the  lodge 
was  closed.  If  the  scene  could  have  been  pictured  and  trans- 
mitted to  every  lodge  room  in  the  world  with  the  ringing 
masonic  words  that  were  spoken,  it  would  be  a  message  old 
and  glissome.  The  impressiveness  of  the  ceremonies  and  the 
sombre  surroundings  could  not  be  carried  to  the  outer  light,  no 
matter  how  eloquent  the  bearer.  One  of  the  chief  features  of 
the  meeting  was  the  speech  of  Worshipful  Master  Kayat,  a 
good  Arabian  mason,  and  it  is  here  given  in  full  : 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


199 


Brethren  :  It  is  a  liaj^py  occasion  that  has  called  us  together.  It  is  only 
a  few  weeks  since  this  city  of  historic  and  masonic  association  beheld  so 
numerous  and  distinguished  a  gathering  of  "craftsmen."  Our  British  guests, 
who  were  about  40  masons,  under  the  leadership  of  Archdeacon  Stevens, 
vicar  of  Stratford,  masonic  past  grand  chaplain,  met  with  us  here  on  this  very 
spot  on  the  third  day  of  last  month,  and  we  had  a  very  pleasant  and  successful 
meeting  together.  Also,  three  years  have  elapsed  since  our  American  guests, 
under  the  direction  and  management  of  our  beloved  and  much  esteemed 
friend  and  brother,  Frank  C.  Clark,  visited  us,  and  we  likewise  held  pleasant 
meetings  then  in  these  quarries,  and  now  we,  who  are  residents  in  this  ancient 
centre  of  masonic  science,  are  glad  once  again  to  extend  a  cordial  and  fraternal 
greeting,  on  the  five  points  of  fellowship  to  those  others  who,  braving  all 
dangers  which  beset  the  path  of  the  true  Mason,  and  all  temptations  which  are 
only  too  ready  to  allure  him  from  the  path  of  duty,  have,  with  rare  persever- 
ance and  fortitude,  crossed  sea  and  land  in  order  to  visit  the  &ite  of  the 
ancient  temples  of  the  great  Architect  of  the  Universe,  and,  as  they  survey 
the  ruins  of  past  ages,  to  gather  inspiration  from  the  memories  of  those  work- 
men, who  though  now  at  rest,  in  this  historic  city,  the  centre  of  the  three  mono- 
theistic religions  of  the  world,  Islamism,  Judaism  and  Christianity,  used  the 
tools  of  the  workman  and  the  builder,  the  24-inch  gauge,  common  gavel, 
square,  level,  chisel,  skirret,  etc.,  in  order  to  raise  a  spiritual  structure  that  in 
its  turn  should  serve  as  a  foundation  for  the  achievement  of  others  who,  like 
us,  are  desirous  of  receiving  "light."  In  your  name,  brethren  of  tlie  Royal 
Solomon  Mother  Lodge,  I  address  myself  to  our  honored  and  welcome 
visitors  here  present  and  say  : 

Brethren  from  the  west,  who  have  traveled  eastward  to  this  ancient  centre 
of  masonic  science  and  light,  accept  our  hearty  felicitations  on  the  most  praise- 
worthy zeal  which  has  brought  you  hither.  In  order  to  assist  you  in  your 
researches  for  light  during  the  short  stay  you  must  necessarily  make  with  us, 
I  would  take  the  liberty  of  calling  your  attention  to  some  of  the  most  interest- 
ing points  for  your  study.  We  are  now  assembled  within  the  very  quarry 
where  the  ancient  craftsmen  of  King  Solomon's  days  labored  each  in  his  little 
corner,  illuminated  only  by  a  little  oil  lamp,  the  resting  place  and  soot  of 
which  has  remained  to  this  day,  in  order  to  hew  silently  and  unobserved  (for 
all  good  work  is  silent  and  unobtrusive,)  the 
great  stones  for  that  great  edifice  which  was 
one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world,  the  chief 
centre  of  true  spiritual  and  intellectual  light, 
and  which,  though  now  in  ruins,  is  one  day 
(I  trust  not  far  distant)  to  be  rebuilt  by  the 
exertions  of  brethren  of  the  craft.  The  old 
masters  have  left  the  quarry,  but  you  may  still 
see  the  marks  they  left  behind  them,  not  only 
here,  but  in  almost  every  nook  and  corner  of 
the  sacred  city.  Visit  the  Haram  Area  and 
there,  underground  indeed,  but  none  the  less 
intact  and  well  preserved,  you  see  the  ancient 
gates  of  the  ancient  temple,  whilst  deep  under- 
ground buried  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  and 
ten  feet  below  the  present  surface  lie  the  ancic  nt 
and  massive  blocks  which  silently,  without  the 
sound  of  "metal"  being  heard,  our  brethren 
piled   up  as    an   enduring   monument  of  their 


I-orJ's  Frayer  Tablet 


200  Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 

knowledge  and  industry.  Or,  if  you  seek  for 
more  recent  monuments  of  masonic  skill,  visit 
and  study  the  ancient  Abbey  of  St.  Anne, 
just  inside  the  gate  of  St.  Stephen.  Enter  its 
great  western  gateway,  and  standing  in  the 
centre  of  the  middle  aisle,  notice  the  remark- 
able one-sidedness  of  the  structure,  the  little 
window  over  the  high  altar,  the  remarkable 
carvings  on  the  capitals  of  the  piers,  and  you 
will  have  had  many  an  illustration  of  the 
wonderful  way  in  which  the  ancient  craftsmen 
succeeded  in  conveying  through  dead  arid  life- 
less material,  solemn  and  instructive  lessons. 
Then  visit  the  remains,  at  the  Sisters  of  Zion  ; 
at  the  Russian  Hospice,  east  of  the  Church  of 
the  Holy  Sepulchre;  of  the  ruins  of  the 
Knights  of  St.  John's  Palace,  with  its  hosts 
of  "mason's  marks;"  the  hour-glass,  the 
arrow,  the  gridiron,  the  richly-carved  zodiac — 
and  you  will  have  a  mass  of  masonic  ideas 
Lord's  Prayer  Tablet  Surging  through  your  mind    which   you  will, 

in  the  short  period  of  your  visit  here,  have 
scarcely  time  to  note  down,  much  less  to  digest.  Then,  if  you  will,  you 
can  pass  on  to  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre.  This  is  neither  the  time  nor 
the  place  to  discuss  the  question  as  to  whether  it  is  the  genuine  site.  It  is  suf- 
ficient for  us  modern  masons  to  know  that  at  different  periods  during  the  last 
fifteen  centuries,  brethren  of  the  craft  not  only  helped  to  build  the  venerable 
pile  and  have  left  their  marks  upon  it,  but,  sincerely  believing  it  to  be  what  it 
is  said  to  be,  laid  down  their  lives  in  its  defence. 

"  They  that  were  slain  soar  to  kindred  spirits." 

Elsewhere,  in  every  part  of  the  town,  you  meet  with  relics  and  monu- 
ments of  the  chivalrous  and  heroic  Crusaders.  Whatever  your  estimate  of 
them  and  of  their  work  be,  remember  that  many  of  them  were  "masons," 
and  worked  according  to  the  light  vouchsafed  them. 

"  The  knights'  swords  are  rust, 
Their  tones  are  dust, 
Their  souls  are  with  the  saints,  we  trust." 

But  why  need  I  speak  only  of  Christian  "masons."  Were  there  none 
amongst  the  ranks  of  Islam?  Was  not  the  knightly  Salah-ud-din  (Saladin)  a 
true  mason  even  though  he  may  have  never  entered  a  masonic  lodge  ? — Ah 
brethren  !  Your  visit,  short  as  it  will  be  to  this  city,  will  not  be  without  bene- 
fit to  you,  if,  from  your  experiences  here,  you  learn  from  the  lives  of  those 
gone  before,  to  "  make  your  own  sublime. 

And  departing,  leave  behind  you 
Footprints  in  the  sands  of  time  : 

Footprints,  which  perhaps  another. 
Sailing  o'er  life's  troubled  main, 

A  forlorn  and  lonely  brother, 

Seeing,  may  take  heart  again." 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


201 


The  Jerusalem  Masonic  Lodge  was  organized  by  a  Ken- 
tiickian  and  exists  by  virtue  of  a  charter  granted  by  the  Grand 
Lodge  of  Canada  ;  so  Americans  generally,  as  well  as  Allerites, 
must  be  somewhat  interested. 

For  long  ages  the  entrance  to  the  great  quarries  was  lost 
and  was  discovered  by  an  American  quite  by  accident.  He  was 
hunting  rabbits  when  his  dog  chased  one  into  a  hole.  Digging 
for  the  animal  the  persistent  hunter  discovered  the  long  lost 
door.  Miles  of  the  quarry  galleries  have  been  explored  and 
yet  more  remain  unexplored.  They  seem  to  undermine  the 
entire  city.  Just  why  the  Moslems  guard  the  great  cave 
so  zealously  is  not  known.  They  say  there  was  once  a  plot 
to  store  vast  quantities  of  dynamite  there  and  blow  up  Jeru- 
salem, that  the  plot  was  discovered  barely  in  time  to 
circumvent  it,  and  that  to  prevent  a  recurrence  of  such  a 
thing  entrance  to  the  quarries  without  a  permit,  very  difficult 
to  obtain,  is  interdicted.  This  is  not  believed  to  be  the  true 
reason,  but  may  be  as  good  as  any  to  the  public.  At  any  rate, 
it  is  said  that  only  once  before  was  a  masonic  meeting  per- 
mitted therein,  and  seldom,  indeed,  is  an  entrance  effected  by 
travelers,  so  the  Aller  Masons  must  suitably  appreciate  the 
honor  paid  them.  Report  has  it  that  now  and  then  rash  visi- 
tors have  gotten  in  and  have  become  lost  and  perished,  and 
also  that  aggravating  court  offenders  have  mysteriously  disap- 
peared, and  their  disposition  is  darkly  hinted  at,  entombment 
and  slow  starvation  in  the  gruesome  cavern. 

With  all  the  interest  centered  there,  and  it  is  great,  the 
light  of  day,  and  even  the  cold  mist,  tasted  better  to  the 
Allerites  than  the  musty,  century-laden  air  of  the  Quarries  of 
Solomon." — Chase  S.  Oshorn. 


50  centimes  POUR  LES  FOUILLES. 


g. 


w 


PISCINE    de    BETH  ESDA 

^pROBATIQUE.^ 


Le  visiteur  qui  desire  hater  le  deblaiement  de 
la  piscine,  est  prie  d'  inscrire,  sur  le  registre,  son 
nom  et  une  offrande  menie  petite :  elle  sera  re9ue 
avec   reconnaissance. 


s 


o4. 


/ 


202 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea 
"  We  got  an  early  start  and  had  a  lovely  day  to  make  the 
twenty  or  thirty  miles.  The  road  was  good  to  begin  with  and 
we  went  along  at  a  smart  pace  over  the  winding  mountain 
road,  about  the  only  decent  one,  it  is  said,  in  Palesdne.  We 
are  going  to  and  through  the  land  of  thieves,  and  for  protection 
we  have  some  of  the  thieves,  with  double-barreled  shot-guns 
and  daggers  and  horse  pistols,  with  us.  This  is  a  matter  of  fore- 
sight on  the  part  of  the  thoughtful  Turk.  On,  on  we  ride 
through  this  "wilderness  of  Judea."  At  the  foot  of  the  hill  we 
halt  at  the  fountain  of  the  Apostles.     This  is  a  general  halting 


The  Valley  of  the  Jordan 


Jerusalem   and  Thereabouts  203 

station  for  pilgrims  and  tourists,  but  to-day  it  is  not  crowded. 
Trains  of  donkeys,  camels,  horses,  all  loaded,  pass  us,  carrying 
meat,  wheat,  wood,  charcoal,  etc.  The  half-way  house  is 
reached  at  last.  The  house  of  the  Good  Samaritan,  where  the 
poor  man  who  fell  among  thieves  was  entertained  for  two 
pence.  It  is  on  the  top  of  a  hill  on  the  right  of  the  road.  The 
hotel  consists  of  three  jagged  stone  walls  and  a  hole  in  the 
rock.  Two  oranges  at  this  place  cost  ten  cents.  What  it 
would  cost  to  stay  over  night  we  cannot  imagine.  It  is  proper 
for  us  to  meditate  upon  the  great  advance  in  hotel  rates  since 
the  Samaritan's  time.  Here  we  met  a  large  number  of  our 
party  who  were  returning  sad,  weary,  disappointed  and  wet  and 
in  a  frame  of  mind  over  the  condition  of  the  roads. 

Nearing  Jericho,  we  were  delighted  to  see  a  brook  of  clear 
flowing  water,  which  was  the  brook  Cherith,  by  which  Elijah 
dwelt  and  was  fed  by  the  ravens.  Its  banks,  500  feet  below 
us,  were  fringed  with  trees  and  green  bushes.  The  mountain 
side  was  steep  and  the  mountains  themselves  rugged,  seamed 
and  wrinkled. 

We  are  rapidly  approaching  the  scene  of  the  passage  of  the 
Israelites  into  the  promised  land.  Crossing  the  brook  Cherith 
with  some  difficulty  over  large  smooth  stones,  famous  Jericho 
is  reached.  There  are  three  hotels  where  we  leave  our  luggage. 
The  village  is  a  distressing  looking  place.  There  are  about 
300  Jerichoans,  and  many  of  them  are  very  scantily  clad.  We 
stopped  only  a  few  minutes,  then  rode  on  through  the  plain 
with  brushwood  on  both  sides  of  us.  The  stony  banks  were 
reached.  There  were  one  or  two  booths  where  refreshments 
were  served,  and  we  had  quite  a  good  meal.  Bread,  butter 
which  would  run  like  molasses,  chicken,  beef,  Jordan  fish,  nuts 
and  raisins.  While  we  were  there  men  brought  to  the  restau- 
rant a  fine  string  of  fish  fresh  from  the  sacred  stream.  Hunters 
also  brought  in  an  animal  about  two  feet  long,  which,  as  I 
understood  Arabic  perfectly,  I  guessed  was  an  opossum.  There 
were  present  here  quite  a  number  of  Russian  pilgrims,  and  with 
their  priest  they  held  a  service  at  the  very  edge  of  the  muddy 
stream.  They  washed  their  feet  in  the  Jordan,  and  these  same 
were  of  remarkably  large  size. 

I  contented  myself  with  clambering  over  the  boats  on  the 
stream,  washing  my  hands  and  sinking  in  the  mud,  which  is 


204 


Jerusalem   and   Thereabouts 


A I  the  Dead  Sea 


plentiful  and  prevents  an  easy  approach  to  the  water.  The 
stream  is  about  200  feet  wide  at  this  point  and  seems  anxious 
to  reach  the  Dead  Sea,  which  is  three  or  four  miles  below.  It 
is  not  the  cool,  clear,  quiet,  babbUng  brook  that  my  mind  had 
pictured  since  my  grandmother's  time. 

Brush,  thick  with  tangle  and  bamboo,  line 

the  banks,  of  which  banks  the  farther  is  almost 

Vmk  -       II      perpendicular.     One  of  our  party  the  day  before, 

an  old  gentleman  from  San  Francisco, 
ost  himself  completely  in  the  thicket, 
and  for  an  hour  wandered  about  in 
the  brush,  which  is  said  to  be  infested 
with  hyenas,  jackals,  wild  boars 
and  villainous  Bedouins.     The 
terror   of  the    old   gentleman 
from    the    wild    West   can   be 
imagined.      At   last,  however, 
he  emerged,  red  with  shouting 
and  streaming  with  perspiration. 

There  is  on  the  shore  one  hut  which  no  one  seems  to  use, 
except  for  shade.  It  was  cooler  here.  The  wind  blew  in  from 
the  clear,  restless  sea,  and  it  is  far  more  pleasant  than  at  the 
Ford  of  the  Jordan.  The  beach  is  lined  with  beautiful  round, 
smooth  stones,  worn  into  strange  shapes  by  the  incessant  move- 
ment of  the  waves.  There  is  dead  wood  a  few  feet  up  from 
the  water's  edge,  forming  a  fringe  of  white.  All  about  are  sea- 
shells  and  more  or  less  asphalt.  Mountains  encircle  this  site 
of  Sodom  and  Gomorrah,  and  opposite  and  south  of  us  are 
Mountains  Nebo  and  Pisgah.  We  are  told  that  there  are 
numerous  and  valuable  mineral  springs,  many  of  them  hot  and 
excellent  for  bathing. 

It  would  be  an  Eastern  Saratoga,  and  better,  but  for  the 
.Sultan,  who  is  the  private  owner  of  all  this  estate  from  the 
Jordan  to  Jericho,  and  who,  of  course,  objects  to  any  improve- 
ment. Enterprising  capitalists  have  tried  to  buy  or  rent  this 
vast  garden,  but  without  success.  The  Sultan  prefers  beggary 
and  desolation.  The  natives  are  in  a  very  low  state  of  devel- 
opment in  this  valley,  which  should  and  could  blossom  as  the 
rose.  Palestine  has  a  wonderful  possibility,  a  wonderful  variety 
of  climate  and  production,  and  some  time  when  the  Jew  recovers 


Jerosalem    and   Thereabouts  205 

his  lost  land,  or  when  a  Christian  nation  becomes  its  possessor, 
we  shall  hear  of  great  things.  I  wandered  up  and  down  the 
beautiful  beach,  and  waded  in  the  waters  of  the  sea  so  clear  that 
I  could  pick  curious  stones  from  beneath  the  surface  of  the 
water.  One  can  wade  here  without  fear  of  losing  his  toes  as 
choice  morsels  for  crabs  or  snapping-turtles,  or  even  sharks,  and 
one  can  swim  here,  likewise,  without  any  fear  of  drowning,  so 
buoyant  is  the  water  from  the  great  amount  of  salt. 

The  sea  has  no  outlet,  and  all  it  loses  is  by  evaporation, 
which  leaves  the  salt  in  solution.  The  specific  gravity,  there- 
fore, is  very  great.  A  bath  is  a  good  test  of  the  weight  of  a 
man's  brain.  If  his  head  is  empty  there  is  no  trouble  to  keep 
upright  and  level-headed  ;  but  all  of  our  party  showed  a  ten- 
dency to  reverse  the  usual  order  of  things,  thus  showing  that 
the  brains  of  the  Alley  party  were  not  in  their  feet. 

While  wadine  I  filled  two  wine-bottles  with  the  bitter  salt 
sea-water  for  future  reference.  I  wanted  to  remain  here  longer 
and  take  in  the  situation,  but  our  Dragoman  kept  hurrying  us, 
inventing  reasons  for  early  departure — a  performance  they  are 
equal  to  under  all  circumstances. 

We  return  to  the  ill-fated  Jericho,  the  land  of  Elisha, 
Elijah,  and  miracles.  Here  the  she-bears  disposed  of  thought- 
less boys  who  made  fun  of  the  bald-headed  man.  Here  the 
iron  axe  swam  in  the  Jordan.  Here  we  drank  sweet  water 
from  the  fountain  of  Elisha  which  he  healed  with  salt.  This 
fountain  supplies  all  the  city  of  Jericho  with  drinking-water,  and 
earthen  jars  and  goat-skin  bottles  were  very  common  there- 
about. The  mount  of  Christ's  temptation  is  said  to  be  back  of 
the  city,  as  well  as  Elisha's  Fountain.  After  a  course  dinner, 
which  was  very  excellent,  we  retired  to  our  rooms,  examining 
first  the  ominous  notice  on  the  bed-room  door  which  stated  that 
the  proprietor  would  not  be  responsible  for  any  valuables  not 
left  with  him.  I  regarded  it  not, 
and  for  two  reasons.  Firstly,  I 
would  not  trust  him  ;  secondly,  I 
had  no  valuables  with  which  to 
trust  him. 

About  two  o'clock  I  was 
awakened  by  a  hard  wind  storm 
which  had  blown  open  the  windows 


Two  Hooskrs  on  Jordan's  Stormy  Banks 


206  Jerusalem   and  Thereabouts 

and  was  banging  the  door  with  vigor.  In  some  of  the  rooms  the 
glass  was  blown  in,  and  the  house  actually  rocked  perceptibly 
from  the  force  of  the  storm  of  wind  and  rain.  It  was  seven 
o'clock  when  we  started  for  Jerusalem,  and  two  hours  later  than 
we  intended.  In  the  brook  Cherith  our  horses  balked ;  the 
driver  shouted  and  lashed  in  vain.  We  crawled  out  one  by  one 
over  the  dash-board  and  jumped  to  terra  firma.  After  the 
driver  had  hammered  his  horse's  head  with  smooth  stones  and 
everything  within  reach,  and  after  two  bare-legged  sons  of  the 
wilderness  had  put  their  shoulders  to  the  front  wheels,  we  at 
last  got  started.  We  reached  Jerusalem  in  due  time,  and 
were  glad  indeed  to  make  for  our  hotel  and  call  it 
home." — Parke. 

Through  Samaria  and  Galilee  on  Horseback 

The  modes  of  travel  are  so  manifold,  in  these  times  of 
invention  and  progress,  that  anyone  contemplating  a  tour  over- 
land, especially  in  America  or  Europe  is  not  thought  singular 
if  he  hesitates  before  deciding  the  question  :  How  shall  I  make 
the  journey  ? 

But  if  the  tourist  wants  to  make  his  way  through  Samaria 
and  Galilee,  and  chooses  not  to  go  on  foot,  and  refuses  the 
camel  and  the  donkey  he  must  go  on  horseback. 

Just  when  the  French  horse  was  introduced  into  Palestine 
for  travel  I  know  not,  but  he  is  there  now  and  doubtless  will 
stay  while  the  Sultan  of  Turkey  rules,  for  he  is  opposed  to 
change.  The  horse  is  below  the  medium  in  size  and  rather  fleet 
and  also  sure  footed  and  can  climb  the  mountain  passes  quite 
readily.  It  was  on  the  morning  of  March  7,  1898,  that  the 
bugle  call  in  front  of  Howard's  Hotel  in  Jerusalem  announced 
the  hour  for  making  ready  for  the  journey.  A  half  hour  was 
given  us  during  which  time  each  was  busy  selecting  his  horse 
and  making  the  acquaintance  of  his  muleteer.  I  had  previously 
"  feed  "  a  guide  to  secure  for  me  a  good  horse,  and  when  I  was 
ready  for  mounting  my  steed  the  guide  made  his  way  through 
the  jam  of  horses,  mules,  donkeys,  men,  boys  and  tourists, 
myself  following. 

He  stopped  at  a  raw-boned,  weak  jointed,  spavined  and 
flea-bitten  gray  saying,  "  Here's  your  hoss."  I  at  once 
demurred.     He  then  found  a  rather  pretty  chestnut  sorrel,  and 


Jerusalem   and   Thereabouts 


207 


to  secure  this  one  I  again  gave  the  muleteer  "  Backsheesh"  where- 
upon he  assured  me  by  all  that  was  good  and  bad,  that  he 
would  keep  it  for  me  while  I  went  into  the  hotel  for  a  piece  of 
baggage. 

On  returnine  I  could  find  neither  horse  nor  muleteer.  He 
had  sold  out  to  another  party  and  had  also  sold  me.  In  my 
desperation  I  made  diligent  search  and  found  a  charming  look- 
ing bay  and  without  asking  any  question  mounted.  But  I  had 
no  sooner  done  this  than  two  muleteers,  one  on  either  side, 
laid  hold  of  the  bridle  rein,  each  claiming  the  horse  and  having 
turned  him  around,  they  lead  him  back  to  the  hitching  rack, 
while  I,   of  course,   was  at  their  mercy,   or  rather  meanness. 


His  c4rab  Steed 


They  were  wanting  a  fee  and  I  was  making  their  acquaintance. 
At  this  stage  of  affairs  Mr.  Herbert  Clark  came  upon  the  scene 
and  hailed  me,  saying,  "  Why  do  you  not  go  out  into  the  street 
where  the  procession  is  forming?  "  I  replied  most  feelingly,  "  I 
very  much  want  to  do  that,  but  under  existing  circumstances 
cannot."  He  righted  matters  at  once,  and  soon  I  was  in  the 
line  of  the  procession  sitting  proudly  on  my  bay.  And  my 
horse  "David,"  as  some  of  my  friends  were  pleased  to  name 
him,  proved  to  be  one  of  the  best  in  the  company. 

At  8  A.  M.  of  this  day  the  bugle  sounded  the  note  for  the 
movement  of  the  caravan,  and  with  high  hopes  and  in  gleeful 
spirit  we  rode  out  of  the  city.  Of  tourists  there  were  fifty-five, 
eighteen  of  whom  were  ladies.  This  company  required  one 
conducter,  Mr.  Lewis  ;  four  dragomen,  Solomon,  Jacob,  Joseph 


208  Jerusalem   and  Thereabouts 

and  George ;  twenty  muleteers  and  thirty-two  additional  men 
to  manage  the  tent  equipage  and  provide  wholesome  meals  and 
luncheons  ;  in  all  there  were  one  hundred  and  twelve  persons. 
To  move  this  company  and  the  necessary  equipments  one  hun- 
dred and  twelve  horses  and  mules,  twenty  donkeys  and  one 
palanquin  were  required.  We  took  our  journey  northward 
over  the  usual  caravan  route,  passing  on  the  left  the  hill  of 
Calvary  with  the  Damascus  Gate  on  the  right. 

Passing  a  cavern  on  the  hill  side  we  glance  at  it  and  are 
told  that  it  is  the  grotto  of  Jeremiah  and  with  a  backward  look 
again  scan  the  entrance  to  the  Quarries  of  Solomon  opposite. 
A  little  later  we  pass  the  tombs  of  the  kings  and  very  soon  we 
were  making  the  ascent  of  Mt.  Scopos,  which  is  practically  one 
with  the  Mt.  of  Olives  on  the  south. 

Here  a  halt  was  called  that  we  might  look  once  more  upon 
the  city  of  Mt.  Zion.  Doubtless  our  conductor  thought  for 
most  of  us,  if  not  all,  it  would  be  our  last  view  of  a  scene 
unequaled  in  the  world.  In  silence  we  looked  upon  it.  Beyond 
the  near  hills  to  the  east  is  the  valley  of  the  Jordan,  the  river 
itself  lying  hid  under  its  skirting  woods  of  balsam  and  tamarisk  ; 
the  grand  view  being  bounded  on  the  farther  side,  by  the 
mountains  of  Moab,  which  change  color  with  every  passing 
cloud,  sometimes  melting  into  the  blue  distance,  again  taking 
on  a  misty  grey,  while  at  their  foot  gleams  here  and  there  between 
the  intervening  mountain  tops,  the  clear  blue  water  of  the 
famous  Dead  Sea.  To  the  south  was  Bethlehem,  of  such  sweet 
and  tender  memory,  and  beyond  this,  a  little  farther  southwest, 
a  lower  range  of  hills,  and  though  not  in  sight  we  knew  that 
just  over  their  brow  was  Hebron. 

Looking  westward  we  could  see  the  hills  of  the  wilderness 
of  Judea,  in  the  midst  of  which  is  Ain  Karim,  the  birth  place  of 
John  the  Baptist  and  the  place  where  was  heard  "the  voice  of 
one  crying  in  the  wilderness." 

Just  back  of  us  on  the  sloping  hillside  east  is  Bethany. 
After  this  wider  sweep  of  our  vision  the  eye  finally  rests  upon 
the  city  itself  while  the  mind  recalls  scenes  of  unparalleled 
interest.  A  look  once  more  is  given  to  Gethsemane  and  a 
glance  off  yonder,  north  from  Damascus  Gate  and  outside  of 
the  city,  at  the  Hill  of  Calvary  and  as  we  turn  from  this 
enchanting  scene  to  take  a  final  view  of  the  city  and  the  Mount 


Jerusalem   and   Thereabouts 


209 


of  Olives  and  the  place  of  ascent,  we  can  almost  hear  again 
the  chanting  call,  "  Lift  up  your  heads,  O  ye  gates,  and  be  ye 
lift  up,  ye  everlasting  doors,  and  the  King  of  Glory  shall  come 
in,"  or  see  in  imagination  as  we  stand  gazing,  with  uplifted  eye, 
"Jesus  ascend  up  into  Heaven." 

Where  in  all  the  world  can  you  find  such  another  picture — 
even  forgetting  the  associated  history — such  a  picture  of  such 
wonderful  and  varied  beauty.  One  may  travel  far  and  not  find 
it.     But  though  all  this  was  left  behind  there  was  much,  very 


"  And  behold f  there  ivas  a  great  earthquake  t  for  the  angel  of  the  Lord  descended  from 
Hea'venf  and  came  and  rolled  back  the  stone  from  the  door  " 

much  before  us,  as  we  follow  the  old  caravan  route  from 
Jerusalem  to  Damascus,  not  a  carriage  drive  but  a  path  for  a 
pilgrim. 

An  hour's  ride  and  we  reach  ancient  Gibeah  of  Benjamin, 
where  the  sons  of  Saul  were  murdered,  among  whom  were  two 
of  Rizpah's  sons.  We  read  :  "  She  took  sackcloth  and  spread 
it  upon  the  rock,  from  the  beginning  of  harvest  until  the  water 
dropped  upon  them  out  of  heaven,  and  suffered  neither  the 
birds  of  the  air  to  rest  on  them  by  day  nor  the  beasts  of  the 
field  by  night."  So  were  the  rocks  of  Gibeah  made  classic  by 
this  mother's  strong  instinct. 


2 JO  Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 

To  the  left,  one  mile  and  more  distant,  came  into  view  his- 
toric Mizpah,  the  seat  of  Samuel's  power  and  judgeship  in 
Israel,  and  where  was  first  heard  the  benediction,  now  being 
voiced  around  the  world  by  the  Christian  Endeavorers,  "The 
Lord  watch  between  me  and  thee  when  we  are  absent  one  from 
another." 


Lunch  and  a  snap-shot  beHueen  shcnuers 

Next  we  pass  through  Ramah,  celebrated  in  sacred  history 
because  of  a  woman,  "  Deborah,  the  prophetess,  who  judged 
Israel  after  the  death  of  Ehud."  We  read,  "From  this  palm 
tree  of  Deborah  went  forth  the  influence  which  led  to  one  of 
the  most  brilliant  victories  in  Israel's  glorious  history — a  vic- 
tory which  shattered  the  power  of  Jabin,  King  of  Canaan,  and 
gave  to  the  oppressed  and  suffering  land  rest  and  freedom  for 
forty  years."  As  we  journey  on,  having  in  mind  that  we  are 
traversing  the  ancient  route  which  the  pilgrims  of  Samaria  and 
Galilee  used  when  they  went  to  Jerusalem  to  attend  the  national 
feasts,  we  were  not  surprised  to  pass  the  village  El  Birch,  where 
the  child  Jesus  was  first  missed  by  His  parents  on  their  return 
to  Nazareth.  The  place  is  only  a  day's  journey  from  Jerusalem, 
and  blessed  with  a  spring  of  water  where  pilgrims  are  still 
prone  to  halt  and  refresh  themselves,  as  we  ourselves  did. 

We  found  Shiloh,  the  birthplace  of  Samuel,  and  where  the 
Tabernacle  was  first  erected,  a  scene  of  utter  desolation,  as  was 
also  Bethel,  where  on  our  first  day  out  we  lunched  at  noon. 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


2n 


It  was  here  that  Jacob,  being  weary,  "  took  of  the  stones  of 
that  place  and  put  them  for  his  pillows,  and  lay  down  in  that 
place  to  sleep,"  and  where  God  came  to  him  in  the  wonderful 
dream  of  the  ladder,  connecting  heaven  and  earth,  and  promis- 
ing very  great  things  for  him.  No  wonder  that  he  named  the 
place  Bethel  and  vowed  faithfulness  unto  his  God.  Had  it  been 
night  instead  of  day  possibly  some  of  us  might  have  tried  a 
stone  for  a  pillow. 

As  we  journeyed  on,  the  way  began  to  be  rugged,  passing 
through  sharp  ravines  and  exceedingly  rough  places.  Hills 
which  were  once  terraced  and  fruitful  valleys  once  "  flowing 
with  milk  and  honey  "  were  now  quite  barren.  No  shelter  is 
afforded  us  from  either  sun  or  rain,  nor  was  it  to  be  found  in 
the  villages  of  huts  and  hovels  located  on  the  hills  for  the  pro- 
tection of  the  people,  where  still  the  armed  sheiks  and  tax- 
gatherers  demand  and  collect  what  they  please. 

We  met  an  occasional  caravan  making  its  way  across 
plains  over  the  great  hills  and  through  the  rocky  passes. 

After  a  charming  day  and  scenery  of  striking  beauty  and 
interest  we  rode  into  camp  at  Singil  near  four  o'clock,  finding 
all  in  readiness  for  us.  The  tents  being  numbered  we  knew 
just  where  to  locate.  And  how  delicious  the  tea  and  the  sweet 
crackers  to  hungry  tourists,  only  they  know  who  have  had 
similar  experience. 


Shiloh 


Then,  until  the  dinner  hour,  some  were  writing  letters, 
others  making  notes  of  the  way,  a  few  resting  in  their  tents, 
while  yet  others  hied  themselves  away  to  the  rocks  near  by  and 
sang  hymns  and  patriotic  songs.  This  was  an  hour  not  to  be 
forgotten.  Dinner  over,  the  camp-fire  was  lighted  and  all  made 
merry.     A  crowd  of  natives  visited  us,  which  added  much  to  the 


212 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


evening's  interest.    We  sang,  and  the  Arab  children  responded. 

They  wanted  backsheesh,  and  we  returned  the  compliment  by 

passing  the  hat,  but  we  were  not  any  richer,  save  in  amusement. 

On  March  8th,  Tuesday,  by  7  A.  M.,  we  were  in  the  saddle. 


>h 


p. 


r 


""''C!^*'**-. 


y{Ti.r- y:--^!^vm- 

t^^^^^^EK^^^^^d 

1^* 

P^ 

»^^-^;^ 

Jacob's  Well 


and,  being  refreshed  after  a  good  night's  rest,  we  hastened  on 
to  the  historic  site  of  Jacob's  well,  where  we  lunched  and  spent 
the  noon  hour.  After  luncheon  the  company  divided  into 
groups,  and  the  beautiful  story  in  the  fourth  chapter  of  St.  John 
was  read.  The  depths  of  our  hearts  were  broken  up  as  prob- 
ably nowhere  else,  for  this  was  the  very  well  where  Christ  met 
the  woman  of  Samaria,  hence  very  sacred.  To  gather  about 
the  well  and  draw  and  drink  of  those  same  waters  was  the 
privilege  of  a  lifetime. 

In  the  afternoon  we  ride  on  toward  the  city  of  Nablous  or 
ancient  Shechem,  and  on  the  way  pass  between  the  mountains 
of  Ebal  and  Gerizim.  Here  once  were  gathered  the  tribes  of 
Israel  to  listen  to  Joshua,  the  veteran  leader,  while  he  read  the 
laws  of  blessing.  On  Mt.  Gerizim  the  tribes  of  Simeon,  Levi, 
Judah,  Issachar,  Joseph  and  Benjamin  ;  on  Ebal  those  of  Reu- 
ben, Gad,  Asher,  Zebulon,  Dan  and  Naphtali  each  responding 
"  Amen."     A  most  impressive  scene  it  must  have  been. 

It  was  suggested  to  our  party  that  we  divide  and  climb  the 
mountains  and  enact  the  ancient  scene  and  test  the  acoustic 
qualities  of  this  great  natural  amphitheatre,  but  being  weary 
and  anxious  to  get  into  camp  again,  we  hastened  on. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


2J3 


Nablous  is  a  curious  old  place,  but  delightfully  situated, 
being  surrounded  with  mountains  and  rugged  hills,  flowing 
waters  and  fertile  valleys. 

During  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Vespasian,  Shechem 
was  rebuilt  and  named  Neopolis  (new  city),  which  appellation 
has  passed  into  the  Arabic  Nablous,  the  modern  name  it  now 
bears. 

It  is  noted  for  the  manufactory  of  soap,  there  being  as 
many  as  seven  factories  located  in  the  city.  Judging  from  the 
appearance  of  the  people,  we  concluded  that  it  was  all 
exported,  none  being  used  for  home  consumption.  The  only 
synagogue  of  Samaritans  in  the  world  is  at  Nablous — they 
number  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  people  and  have  in  their 
possession  a  copy  of  the  Samaritan  Pentateuch,  written, 
according  to  their  claim,  by  the  son  of  Phineas,  thirty-five 
hundred  years  ago.  Like  Jericho,  "thieves  abound  there," 
and  before  night  fell  one  of  the  tents  was  entered  for  plunder, 
but  the  screams  of  the  occupants  frightened  them  away.  We 
met  a  Baptist  missionary  from  PLngland,  who  is  endeavoring  to 
sow  the  seed  of  the  gospel  in  that  field,  but  the  opposition  is 
one  of  hatred,  so  that  the  work  is  difficult. 


Mount  Tabor 


214 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


"  Tickling  the  earth  with  the  olaZfashioned  one  pronged  plough  " 


March  9th.  Wednesday  morning-  we  enter  upon  our 
journey  clad  in  gossamers,  mackintoshes,  etc.,  for  the  wind  was 
blowing,  and  already  the  rain  was  descending  and  for  two  days 
and  more  storms  beat  heavily  upon  us.  We  could  realize 
better  than  ever  before  Christ's  words  :  "  The  rains  descended, 
the  floods  came  and  the  winds  blew." 

Hail,  lightning  and  tempest  met  us,  our  horses  would 
turn  around  to  protect  themselves,  umbrellas  were  turned 
inside  out  and  in  one  or  two  instances  blown  from  the  stock. 

Thus  we  ride  through  the  hours  of  the  day,  stopping  a 
little  while  near  10  A.  M.  to  visit  Samaria,  which  for  so  long 
was  the  Capital  of  the  kingdom  of  Israel.  The  situation  is 
quite  picturesque.  On  the  top  of  the  hill,  where  was  the  city, 
is  a  broad  plateau,  and  around  the  base  a  rich  valley  of  five 
or  six  miles  in  extent.  It  has  now  a  population  of  four 
hundred. 

There  are  here  two  objects  of  special  interest  ;  one  the 
remains  of  a  church  dedicated  to  the  memory  of  John  the 
Baptist.  The  roof  of  the  building  is  wanting,  and  only  the 
walls  remain.  It  is  evidently  as  old  as  the  Crusaders,  and 
because  so  many  forms  of  crosses  still  remain,  we  conclude  that 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 


215 


it  was  built  by  the  Knights  of  St.  John.  We  were  shown  a, 
vault  where  our  guides  tell  us  St.  John  was  imprisoned  and  a 
tomb  where  he  was  buried. 

The  other  place  of  interest  is  the  ruins  of  Herod's 
palace,  of  which  many  columns  remain,  showing  the  extent 
of  the  ground  for  palace  and  theatre.  Hut,  according  to  the 
prophet  Isaiah,  "  the  glorious  beauty,  which  was  on  the  head 
of  the  fat  valley,  has  become  a  fading  flower  and  as  the  hasty 
fruit  before  the   summer."     And   so   also   Micah   declares,  "  I 


A  pause  for  lunch  And  photograph 


will  make  Samaria  as  an  heap  of  the  field  and  as  plantings  of  a 
vineyard  ;  and  I  will  pour  down  the  stones  thereof  into  the 
valley  and  I  will  discover  the  foundations  thereof."  Verily  God 
fulfils  His  word. 

As  we  pass  through  I])othan  we  think  of  Elisha's  wonder- 
ful vision,  '■  the  mountains  full  of  chariots  of  fire  and  horses." 

Neither  did  we  forget  the  vale  round  about  where  Joseph's 
brethren  took  their  father's  flock.  Here,  too,  we  recalled  the 
story  of  Joseph's  misfortune,  and  at  the  same  time  praised  God 
for  the  care  He  took  of  the  boy  and  the  men.  As  we  rode 
along  we  talked  of  the  cattle  once  scattered  over  the 
fields  ;  of  the  sons  of  Jacob  sitting  under  the  shade  of  some 


2J6 


Jerusalem  and  Thereabouts 


great  tree  and  watching  their  rtocks  ;  of  the  boy  Joseph,  in  his 
many-colored  coat,  hastening  across  the  fields  to  meet  his 
brethren,  and,  indeed,  the  whole  tragical  story  passed  in  review 
before  us. 

The  merchants  on  their  way  to  and  from  Egypt,  Arabs  and 
Bedouins  we  call  them  to-day,  would  not  hesitate  any  more 
than  then  to  do  the  same  things.  Their  desire  is  just  the 
same.  They  sell  the  same  things  now.  They  come  from 
Gilead  and  still  go  down  to  Egypt,  selling  spices,  balm  and 
myrrh,  and  if  a  company  of  shepherds  would  to-day  offer  to  sell 
a  smart  boy,  just  as  Joseph's  brothers  did,  they  would  find  many 
a  ready  purchaser.     Sin  remains  the  same  and  the  religion  of 

Mahomet  does  not  improve 
the  people.  At  the  noon  hour, 
because  of  the  storm,  we 
lunched  on  horseback,  having 
baked  chicken,  hard  bread, 
hard  boiled  eggs  and  one 
orange  each.  Camping  for 
the  night  at  Jenin  will  not  be 
forgotten.  Torrents  of  rain 
until  the  tents  were  flooded 
with  water  !  How  cheerful  was 
the  camp-fire  that  evening,  and 
how  essential  to  comfort  and 
health  only  those  know  who  had  made  the  journey  of  the 
day.  I  shall  ever  remember  the  kind  woman  who  furnished  me 
a  pair  of  her  husband's  dry  darned  socks,  and  the  good 
friends  who  invited  me  to  their  tent  after  dinner  to  enjoy  with 
them  a  charcoal  fire. 

Thursday,  March  loth,  we  crossed  the  plain  of  Esdrailon, 
the  great  battlefield  of  Palestine.  It  has  an  extent  of  twenty 
by  thirty  miles,  reaching  to  the  Mediterranean  on  the  west  and 
to  the  mountains  of  Gilboa  on  the  east. 

From  Jehu's  rapid  driving  across  the  plain,  as  described  in 
II.  Kings,  we  have  even  to  this  day  the  phrase,  "  He  drives  like 
Jehu."  As  we  cross  the  stream  how  could  we  but  remember 
with  very  special  interest  Gideon's  army  reduced  from  32,000 
to  300,  and  hear  again  the  cry,  "  The  sword  of  the  Lord  and  of 
Gideon." 


*■*' 


Mary's  loell  ai  Nazareth 


Jerusalem  and    Thereabouts 


ii^ 


As  we  gallop  across  the  plain,  Nazareth,  which  we  were 
anxious  to  reach,  finally  comes  in  view.  It  was  pleasant  to 
behold  this  fair  city,  the  home  of  Joseph  and  Mary  and  the 
child  Jesus,  on  that  bright  sunlit  afternoon.  Horse  and  rider 
both  seemed  happy  to  approach  the  historic  place  nestling 
among  the  hills.  From  the  brow  of  the  hill  southward,  as  we 
look  across  the  plains  cultivated  in  garden  terraces  to  the  hills 
and  mountains  beyond,  the  view  is  superbly  grand. 

We  no  longer  dwell  in  tents,  but  during  our  stay  in  Naza- 
reth lodge  in  a  new  hospice  conducted  by  Greek  priests,  where 
everything  was  scrupulously  neat  and  clean.  It  so  happened 
that  we  were  the  first  to  occupy  it,  and  thought  the  waiters  were 
inexperienced  and  easily  confused  specially  when  everyone  at 
the  table  wanted  eggs  at  the  same  time  ;  we  enjoyed  our  stay 
very  much.  Soon  after  our  arrival  we  were  taken  to  the  Chapel 
of  the  Virgin,  where  we  were  shown  Mary's  kitchen  and  dining- 
room  hewn  out  of  the  rock  ;  then,  to  the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin, 
and  later  to  the  carpenter  shop. 

Friday,  March  i  ith.  When  making  ready  for  our  ride  to 
the  Sea  of  Galilee  we  were  somewhat  annoyed  by  a  strike  of 
muleteers  demanding  additional  backsheesh.  But,  matters  beino- 
adjusted,  we  left  in  the  midst  of  a  severe  storm  of  rain,  which 
increasing  in  force  caused  some  to  turn  back.  Only  three  of 
the  eighteen  ladies  ventured  to  continue  the  journey  on  that 
day  ;  some  made  the  trip  later,  on  Monday. 

On  our  way  Mary's  childhood  home  was  sighted,  also 
that  of  the  prophet  Jonah.  The  sun  suddenly  coming  from 
behind  tlie  clouds,  we  all  began  singing,  "  Praise  God,  from 
whom  all  blessings  flow,"  and  many  joined  in  word  and  spirit. 
At  Cana  of  Galilee  we  stopped  for  a  half  hour,  passing,  just 
before  entering  the  village,  a  fountain  whence  came,  most 
likely,  the  water  which  Christ  used  when  turning  the  water 
into  wine. 


Down  to  the  Sen  of  Gnlilee 


218  Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts 

During  the  day  we  passed  olive  orchards  and  saw  flocks  of 
sheep  and  goats  and  herds  of  cattle  and  herders  as  in  the 
ancient  times.  In  the  afternoon  we  reached  the  Horns  of 
Hattan,  now  thought  to  be  the  Mount  of  Beatitudes,  where  the 
last  battle  of  the  Crusaders  was  fought  when  they  were  van- 
quished by  the  Turks.  The  view  of  Mt.  Hermon  from  this 
elevation  is  singularly  beautiful.  Var  up  to  the  north  it  stood, 
robed  in  a  glorious  mantle  of  snow  ;  silent  and  in  solemn 
grandeur,  it  seemed  to  stand  sentinel  overall  the  upper  portion 

"The  Assyrian  came  down  like  the  wolf  on  the  fold, 
And  his  cohorts  were  gleaming  in  purple  and  gold. 
And  the  sheen  of  their  si)ears  was  like  stars  on  the  sea. 
Where  the  blue  waves  roll  nightl)^  on  deep  Galilee." 


The  Sea  of  Galilee 

The  'vietu  is  taken  from  a  point  near  where  the  Ri-ver  Jordan  begins  its  course  to  the 
Dead  Sea,     The  buildings  on  the  left  are  old  Roman  baths.    At  the  right  is  Tiberias 


of  that  goodly  land.  The  scene  was  refreshing  to  the  eye  and 
the  picture  lingers  enchantingly  in  memory's  chamber. 
As  we  looked  eastward  the  "  Deep  blue  sea  of  Galilee,"  so  rich 
in  historic  interest,  came  into  our  view.  Descending  from  the 
Mount  of  Beatitudes  we  were  soon  galloping  over  the  road 
leading  down  to  the  sea  and  through  the  streets  of  Tiberias, 
the  only  town  now  on  those  shores.  Here  in  a  hospice  we 
tarried  for  the  night.  Ruins  mark  the  site  of  Capernium  and 
Magdala,  the  most  deserted  and  filthy  places  we  visited. 
Though  the  devils  were  cast  out  of  Mary  Magdalene  they  cer- 
tainly were  not  banished  from  this  region.  The  shores  of  the 
sea  are  desolate,  but  the  waters  are  as  in  the  days  of  Christ. 
Over  its  waters  we  rowed  and   toiled  and   some  of  us  fished. 


Jerusalem  and   Thereabouts  219 

After  luncheon  and  gathering  of  shells  at  Magdala  we 
returned  to  Nazareth,  where,  if  all  felt  as  I  did,  we  parted  from 
our  horses  with  sincere  regret.  My  steed,  "  David,"  had  carried 
ine  150  miles  without  a  balk.  He  never  went  back  on  me  as 
he  had  ample  opportunity,  while  going  up  hills  that  nearly 
approached  the  perpendicular,  nor  tossed  me  over  his  head  in 
going  down,  and  whenever  there  was  a  spot  half  level  and 
smooth  enough  for  a  run,  a  hint  for  the  race  was  all  he  needed. 
May  he  always  have  plenty  to  eat  and  the  kindest  of  treatment. 

The  Sabbath  was  a  day  of  worship  and  rest  with  us.  On 
Monday  we  were  driven  in  carriages  to  flaifa  where  on  a  high 
sea  we  found  our  ship  Allcr  awaiting  us.  Being  safely  piloted 
to  the  ship  we  were  soon  off  for  Joppa,  to  meet  and  welcome 
those  from  Jerusalem,  who  did  not  take  the  horseback  trip 
through  Samaria  and  Galilee. 

Mingled  feelings  possessed  me  as  I  realized  my  pilgrimage 
a  thing  of  the  past, — now  a  memory  and  not  an  anticipation. 
Sacred  history  had  unrolled  its  centuries  before  our  eyes  as  we 
traveled  and  the  panorama  of  divine  manifestation  among  the 
holy  places  of  the  earth  had  been  made  vividly  real  to  us. 

For  me  it  fixed  most  indellibly  the  truth  of  the 
Scriptures,  while  making  real  the  story  of  the  patriarchs  and 
prophets  and  the  life  and  work  of  Christ  and  his  disciples. — 
Rev.    IV.  A.  HutcJdnson,   D.  D. 


ASIA    MINOR 
Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


I 


ASIA  MINOR 

Bibliography — Ephesus 

Ramsav,  Pkof.  W.  M.  Historical  Geography  of  Asia  Minor.  London  (Murray), 
1890.  (Royal  Geographical  Suppl.  Papers,  Vol.  IV.)  Represents  a  dozen 
years'  work.  Most  important  archxological  work  written  in  England  during 
the  nineteenth  century. 

Fekguson,  J.  The  Temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus.  With  special  reference  to  Wood. 
London,  1883. 

Wood,  Rev.  J.  T.  Modern  Discoveries  on  the  Site  of  Ancient  Ephesus.  New 
York,  1890. 

RuRNAiiv,  Col.  Fred.  On  Horseback  Through  Asia  Minor.  London  (Low), 
1899. 

BiNGHA.M,  Clivh.  a  Ride  Trough  Western  Asia.  Illustrations  and  Maps.  New- 
York  (Macniillan). 

Smyrna.     See  Buckley,  Mark  Twain,  Baedeker,  Murray,  etc. 

Periodicals 

Dardanelles,  Through  the.     C.  Warman.     McCiure's,  Vol.  6,  p.  103. 

Ephesus  and  the  Temple  of   Diana.     Temp.  Bar.,  Vol.  104,  p.  355.     Living  Age 

(Boston),  Vol.  205,  p.  153. 
Smyrna  as  It  Is.     F.  W.  Holland.     Hunt's  Merchants  Magazine  (New  York),  Vol. 

25,  p.  452. 

Damascus 

Damascus,  Palmyra  and  Lebanon.  18  illustrations.  (Account  of  five  years'  resi- 
dence.)    London. 

Five  Years  in  Damascus.     2  vols.     London. 

Damascus:  The  Oldest  City  in  the  World.  (E.  W.  G.  Masterman)  Biblical  Wotld 
(Chicago),  Vol.  12,  p.  71,  August,  189S. 

Beirut 

"At  nine  o'clock  we  left  the  harbor  of  Acre,  and  when  we 
arose  this  morning,  March  i  7th,  .St.  Patrick's  Day,  Beirut  was 
smiling   upon  us  from  its  position    on    the  hill.     1  he  smile  was 


1 

1 

■  "•*-*Jtetf^f--,  ^  ^' jJBtfBf^^MB^Mlrf^WiiMl 

SfT- 

,.f**^ 

•Beirut 


short.  Soon  it  beran  to  rain,  threatenino-  the  morning's 
anticpated  pleasure.  Mr.  Clark  was  on  deck  and  urged 
everyone  to  go  and  see  "  the  only  civilized  city  of  Turkey." 


(  223  ) 


224  Beirut,  t)amascus,  Smyrna,  £phesu$ 

Three  of  us  walked  through  the  town  and  out  to  the 
Syrian  Protestant  College,  whose  President,  Rev.  Daniel  Bliss, 
D.D.,  we  met.  He  conducted  us  about  personally  through  the 
chnpel,  museums,  reading  rooms,  etc.  The  young  men  were 
bright,  intelligent  Syrians,  [300  in  number  according  to  the  cata- 
logue]. I  found  them  studying  algebra,  and  one  was  poring 
over  "imaginary  quantities "  treated  in  English,  just  as  our 
book  does  it.  Strange  to  say,  they  use  the  same  general  his- 
tory as  is  used  in  Easton  Academy.  We  talked  with  several, 
and  had  two  underscore  their  names  in  the  catalogue  of  1897, 
which  was  presented.  This  is  a  Presbyterian  Institution  and  is 
doing  a  wonderful  work  in  civilizing  and  upbuilding,  where  such 
work  is  much  needed. 

This  city  of  100,000  people  is  the  centre  of  missionary 
spirit  and  activity. 

There  is  a  printing  establishment  in  Beirut,  which  is  printing 
Bibles  in  great  numbers  in  the  Arabic  language  and  distributing 
the  word  where  it  is  doing  good.  Some  who  visited  the  place 
were  given  a  piece  of  type  on  which  was  the  word  for  Jehovah. 

The  college  of  which  I  have  written  is  under  the  same  care 
as  Lafayette  has  about  the  same  number  of  students,  and  is 
situated  somewhat  the  same,  tiioucjh  with  more  beautiful  views 
of  sea  and  lofty  mountains.  The  grounds,  covered  with  trees 
and  gardens  and  tennis  courts,  commands  a  beautiful  prospect 
of  the  blue  Mediterranean  Sea  and  of  the  snow-capped 
Lebanon  mountains.  This  seaport,  the  most  important  of  all 
Syria,  was  founded  by  the  Phoenicians  at  a  very  early  date. 
The  American  mission  has  been  established  for  fifty-two  years, 
and  the  college  was  established  in  1866." — Parke. 

The  visit  to  Beirut  will  be  ever  memorable  to  some  of 
the  Allerites  for  the  courtesy  and  kindliness  extended  to  them 
by  the  faculty  and  students  of  the  Syrian  Protestant  College. 
It  was  like  meeting  old  friends  and  getting  in  touch  with  Ameri- 
can ways  and  manners.  Especially  will  the  visit  live  in  the 
memory  of  certain  members  of  the  party,  because  of  the  exceed- 
ing hospitality  extended  to  them  in  the  beautiful  Christian  home 
of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Bliss.  Far  away  from  friends  and  kindred  the 
frank  kindliness  and  restful  hospitality  was  very  sweet  and  is 
pleasant  to  remember.  It  is  gratifying  to  the  compiler  to  be 
abje  to  place  in  the  book  an  excellent  picture  of  the  courageous 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  £plicsus 


225 


scholar  and  courtly  gentleman,  President  Daniel  Bliss,  D.  D., 
under  whose  able  administration  for  more  than  a  quarter  of  a 
century  the  work  at  Beirut  has  gone  on  to  success  and  wide 
influence. 


Damascus 

"  Fair  Damascus  on  the  fertile  banks 

Of  Abana  ami  Pharphar,  lucid  streams." 

— Milton' s  Paradise  Lost,  Book  I. 

Damascus,  a  city  of  about  200,000  inhabitants  to-day, 
stands  first  of  all  the  cities  of  the  Bible  in  respect  to  the  length 
of  its  history.  It  is  mentioned  in  Genesis  and  evidently  was  in 
existence  many  hundreds  of  years  before  Athens  or  Rome  were 
thought  of,  and  to-day  is  by  far  the  chief  city  of  Syria.  Twice 
it  has  been  the  capital  of  great  empires  and  at  one  time  its 
dominion  reached  from  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic  to  the  Indian. 
Two  great  Biblical  names  are  connected  with  it,  namely,  Elisha 
the  Prophet  and  .St.  Paul  the  Apostle.  The  city  has  e.xisted 
and  prospered  under  Persian  despotism,  Grecian  anarchy  and 
Roman  patronage  and  it  exists  and  prospers  still  despite 
Turkish  oppression  and  misrule. 


226 


Beirut,  Damascus,   Smyrna,  Ephesus 


On  the  Way  lo  Damascus 


Damascus  is  reached  by  a  railway  70  miles  long,  ascend- 
ing 5000  feet  in  23  miles,  from  Beirut  over  the  Anti-  Lebanon 
mountains  and  then  clown  through  a  deep  winding  valley  by 
the  river  Barada,  the  ancient  Abana  of  Naaman's  time  and  the 
secret  of  her  present  and  guarantee  of  her  future  prosperity. 
The  river  Barada,  the  ancient  Abana,  rising  in  the  heart  of  the 
Anti-Lebanon  mountains  out  of  a  deep  pool  300  by  50  yards, 
descending  over  a  1000  feet  in  23  miles  as  it  approaches 
Damascus,  is  divided  by  an  ancient  system  of  dams  and  aque- 
ducts into  seven  streams,  some  lying  at  different  levels,  but 
spreading  fan  wise  all  over  the  plain  for  the  purpose  of  water- 
ing the  gardens  and  the  court  yards  and  the  houses  of  the  city. 

The  Pharphar  may  be  a  small  stream  not  far  from  Damas- 
cus, watering  the  same  plain.  The  contrast  suggested  to 
Naaman  was  that  of  the  immense  fertility  produced  by  his  two 
clear  mountain  streams  as  still  illustrated  to-day  and  the 
comparative  uselessness  of  the  deep,  muddy  Jordan. 

Damascus  of  today,  though  "fair  from  far,"  is  usually  a 
disappointment  on  near  acquaintance.  The  streets  with  a  few 
exceptions,  are  narrow,  crooked,  badly  paved  and  often  dirty. 
The  houses,  as  seen  from  the  streets,  as  a  rule  consist  of  brown 
mud  walls,  low  doors  and  mean  latticed  windows. 

The  exteriors  of  the  houses  are,  however,  deceptive,  for 
the  interior  is  often  as  magnificent  as  the  outside  is  mean.  On 
entering  a  house  one  usually  descends  a  few  steps,  an  arrange- 
ment necessitated  on  account  of  the  water — the  street  has  risen 
as  the  years  ran  on,  but  the  courtyard  must  keep  low  enough 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


227 


to  receive  the  running  water.  Passing  along  a  short  passage 
and  round  a  sharp  turning  one  enters  most  unexpectedly  a 
beautiful  courtyard.  The  courts  of  all  the  better  houses  have 
a  large  open  pool  in  the  centre,  built  up  two  or  three  feet  from 
the  ordinary  level  and  covered  outside  with  marble  and  sup- 
plied with   running   water  ;    the  whole   floor  is    covered   with 


The  Ri'vcr  Bjrjd^i 


General  Vie^v  cf  Damjsats 


Slrjiijht  Street  B.iz,i.ir 


225 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesos 


colored  marble  or  other  stones,  and  grouped  around  are  lemon, 
citron,  orange  and  other  trees.  The  doors  and  windows  of  the 
rooms  open  upon  the  court,  and  in  the  ca-^e  of  richer  men — 
especially  Moslems — there  is  an  inner  and  often  _  more  magni- 
ficent court,  perhaps  even  two  or  three  beyond.  Of  the  rooms 
the  lower  ones  especially  are  inhabited  in  the  summer,  but  in 
the  winter  they  often  become  so  damp  from  the  moisture  under 
the  floors  that  those  in  the  upper  story  are  preferred.     These 


Court  of  a  House  in  Damascus 


upper  rooms  are  generally  very  flimsy  structures,  being  built 
of  wood  and  mud  bricks.  The  winters  are  usually  short,  and 
the  rainfall  is  much  less  than  in  Palestine  proper,  so  that  the 
people  do  not  suffer  much  inconvenience  from  the  unsuitabilily 
of  their  houses  to  the  cold. 

The  bazaars  are  famous  all  over  the  east.  The  "Greek" 
bazaar  has  now  many  shops  with  plate  glass  windows,  but  the 
great  majority  retain  something  of  their  primitive  appearance 
and  mode  of  doing  business.  As  everywhere  in  the  east,  the 
trades  of  special  kinds  are  grouped  together,  so  that  the 
"  silver  bazaar,"  "  the  cotton  bazaar,"  "the  shoemakers'  bazaar," 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


229 


"  the  saddlers'  bazaar,"  etc.,  are  the  exclusive  places  for  obtain- 
ing those  particular  goods.  Many  of  the  most  frequented 
bazaars  are  covered-in  streets,  so  that  the  cold  and  wet  of 
winter  and  the  hottest  rays  of  the  summer  sun  are  thus 
excluded.  A  considerable  section  of  "straight  street"  is 
thus  roofed  over,  and  in  it  and  the  numerous  covered-in  side 
streets  a  purchaser  can  pass  dry-shod  in  all  directions  till  he 
completes  his  purchases. — A.  J.  P.  McC. 


"  Then  the  Disciples  took  Paul  by  nighl  and  let  him  doivn  by  the  loall  in  a  basket " 


Smyrna 
"Saturday  morning,  March  19th,  found  Smyrna  smiling 
upon  us.  Smyrna,  the  city  of  figs  and  rugs  and  drugs.  As  one 
enters  the  beautiful  harbor,  he  notices  first,  Mt.  Pagus  and  the 
old  battered  citadel  on  the  crest.  There  are  fine  proves  of 
cypress  trees,  which  appropriately  adorn  the  beautiful  ceme- 
teries. The  tomb  of  Polycarp,  with  a  single  large  cypress  is 
pointed  out.  The  last  words  of  this  saint  will  explain  why  he 
perished  at  the  stake,  '  Eighty  and  six  years  I  have  served  Him 
(Christ)  and  he  hath  never  wronged  me,  how  then  can  I  blas- 
pheme my  king  who  hath  saved  me  ?  " 

Boats  and  steam  launches  landed  us  at  the  wharf.  One- 
horse  street  cars  took  us  a  mile  to  the  I'2nglish  railroad  station 
to  Ephesus. 


230 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephcsus 


"  LUtle  Breeches 


A  young  Jew  at  the  depot  told  us  that  Smyrna 
contauis  400,000  people:  100,000  Jews,  150,000  Turks 
and  50,000  Armenians.  There  did  not  seem  to  be 
sympathetic  feeling  here  for  the  Armenians,  who  were 
said  to  be  in  the  wrong.  Still,  it  is  hard  to  see  why 
they    should    be    slaughtered    by  the  wholesale. 

Our  ride  took  us  for  fifty-two  miles  through  fine, 
cultivated  plains  and  meadows,  flanked  on  each  side  by 
mountains,  which  were  without  trees  but  covered  with  bushes. 
The  soil  is  watered  by  streams  of  clear  running  water.  Groves 
of  olives  and  figs  dot  the  fields,  and  closely  trimmed  vines  filled 
many  cultivated  spots.  Farmers  with  yokes  of  oxen,  such  as  we 
saw  in  Egypt,  were  slowly  stirring  up  the  soil  ;  following  them 
in  solemn  dignity  the  stately  storks  stalked.  No  one  seemed  to 
pay  any  attention  to  the  long-legged  birds,  much  less  did  they 


** Look  pleasant f  please'* 


disturb  them.  They  look  much  like  turkeys,  but  their  limbs  are 
slim  and  long  and  they  are  guilty  of  the  pride  which  is  exhibited 
often  by  an  American  gobbler.  Wild  ducks  floated  in  the  lakes, 
and  here  and  there  a  camel  was  seen  upon  the  mountain  side, 
where  its  owner  watched  his  sheep  or  goats.  Through  this 
attractive  scenery  we  made  our  way  to  Ayas-alouk,  where 
to  our  right  we  see  the  tumbled  remains  of  a  castle,  and,  while 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephcsus  23 1 

we  look,  the  train  stops  and  we  are  invited  out.  There  is  no 
town  of  any  account.  A  few  people  live  here  apparently  by 
selling  beads  and  antiques.  The  first  striking  thing  is  the 
towers,  which  are  the  remains  of  an  old  Roman  aqueduct. 
The  place  is  all  ruins.  We  climb  a  hill,  turn  to  the  right, 
where  we  see  a  big  stone  arch,  and  beyond  it  the  ruins  of  the 
Church  of  St.  John,  which  was  formerly  a  mosque,  and  the 
cattle  which  we  saw  from  the  train.  Down  the  hill  we  go,  and 
at  the  rear  we  have  a  view  of  a  beautiful  entrance  and  orna- 
mented stone  archway.  Beyond  this  a  few  hundred  feet  is  the 
depression  where  is  all  that  is  left  of  the  great  temple  eight 
times  destroyed  and  seven  times  rebuilt.  There  were  24c  in 
the  party,  and  here  and  there  we  could  hear  a  thoughtful  book- 
worm say  aloud,  "  Great  is  Diana  of  the  Kphesians." 

Through  some  mistake  of 
a  guide  we  were  told  that  the 
temple  ruins  were  five  miles 
away.  Then  there  was  gnash- 
ing- of  teeth,  and,  in  the  Ian- 
iruacje  of  a  Pike's  Peaker,  a 
tall  and  stately  president  of  a 
southern  college  audibly  mut- 
tered "  Diana's  Temple  or 
bust."       Unlike    the     famous  sue  of  Ephesus 

traveler   of  our  West,  it  was 

unnecessary  for  us  to  bust  (by  thunder).  Climbing  over  the 
fences  and  down  the  slope  we  found  ourselves  among  broken, 
iluted,  marble  columns,  which  gave  every  evidence  of  greatness 
and  antiquity.  While  some  looked  on  with  horror,  the 
vandals  went  to  work,  and  some  of  the  fallen  columns 
were  less  fiuted,  and  some  of  our  pockets  were  filled  with 
choice  chips  of  marble.  P>om  our  position  here  we  caught 
a  glimpse  of  an  arm  of  the  sea  which  once  reached  to  the 
temple,  but  now  appears  to  be  several  miles  away.  Around 
the  mount  near  the  bay  is  the  modern  city  of  Ephesus.  All 
these  hills  are  covered  with  ruins  :  Mt.  Prion,  Mt.  Coressus,  the 
hill  of  Ayas-alouk,  ruins  of  Gymnasia,  of  Agora-,  of  theatres, 
of  temples,  all  of  which  made  tlphesus  famous  in  the  olden 
time.  The  Temple  of  Diana  was  a  buried  ruin  for  centuries, 
and  less  than  forty  years  ago  a  Mr.  Wood  dug  up  the  ground 


232  Beirut,  Damascus,   Smyrna,  EpliesuS 

and  uncovered  the  ruins.  The  final  destruction  of  the  temple 
occurred  in  342  A.  D.,  by  order  of  Constantine.  Many  thing^s 
of  interest  concerning-  Ephesui  are  found  in  the  Bible,  and 
Ephesus  is  associated  with  numerous  names  of  those  who  made 

history :  Paul,  John,  Croesus, 
Xerxes,  Xenophon,  Alexander, 
Hannibal,  Scipio,  Cicero,  Pom- 
pey,       Augustus.  Connected 

with  Ephesus  is  the  story  of 
the  "seven  sleepers,"  who,  in  a 
cave  on  Mt.  Prion,  slept  200 
years,  in  the  time  of  Diocletian, 
and,  like  Rip  Van  Winkle, 
cAt  Ephesus  thought    it    was    but    a     night. 

Returning  to  the  city  they  found 
themselves  unable  to  comprehend  the  changes  they  saw ; 
chagrinned   they   left   and   slept   their  last   sleep. 

Lunch  was  served  the  Allerites  in  a  building-  near  the 
station,  then,  at  2  P.  M.,  we  started  for  the  city  of  fifty  languages, 
arriving  about  four.  This  allowed  us  two  hours  among  the 
bazaars.  Thence  we  made  our  way  back  to  the  boat,  buying 
figs  and  figs." — Parke. 


Ephesus  and  the  Church  of  St.  John 
A  Lecture  delivered  on  Shipboard 

Ladies  and  Gentlemen  : 

I  suppose  Mr.  Clark  selected  me  to  lecture  on  this  subject 
on  account  of  a  two-fold  qualification  :  first,  I  had  never  been  to 
Ephesus  ;  and,  second,  I  expected  to  leave  the  AUer  party 
before  they  reached  it.  The  latter  qualification  will  at  least 
save  me  from  any  unpleasant  consequences  to  myself,  if  you 
do  not  find  the  reality  correspond  to  my  picture. 

One  other  word  of  introduction  :  the  subject  of  the  lecture 
as  given  me  before  I  came  aboard  was  simply  "  Ephesus,"  with 
no  reference  to  the  Church  of  St.  John.  As  my  coinpagnon  de 
voyage,  whose  trunk  contains  everything  else  that  a  man  might 
want  or  imagine  he  might  want,  neglected  to  bring  an  encyclo- 
pedia, you  must  pardon  a  very  brief  reference  to  the  latter  part 
of  my  subject. 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


233 


The  historic  peninsula  lying  between  the  Black  and  the 
Mediterranean  Seas,  known  to  us  as  Asia  Minor,  the  most 
westerly  projection  of  the  Asia  continent,  has  two  rivers  more 
prominent  than  the  rest  running  westward  to  the  Aegean  Sea. 
The  more  northerly  is  Hermus,  with  Sardis  at  its  head  and 
Smyrna  at  its  mouth.  We  think  of  the  first  when  we  say  "  as 
rich  as  Croesus,"  and  the  second  suggests  to  us  rugs  and  figs. 
I  have  had  some  rude  shocks  on  this  trip  ;  I  saw  no  grapes  at 
Malaga  and  no  cats  at  Malta,  and  if  I  find  no  figs  at  Smyrna, 
I  will  be  inclined  to  turn  upon  Mr.  Clark  and  sue  for  damages. 
The  southern  stream  is 
the  Mseander,  to  whose 
multitudinous  windings  we 
pay  tribute  whenever  we 
speak  of  meandering 
streams.  Miletus  was  its 
city. 

Between  these  two 
was  another  and  a  shorter 
stream,  the  Cayster.  Its 
valley  is  divided  from  the 
valleys  of  its  neighboring 
rivers  by  two  mountain 
ranges  that  project  out 
into  the  sea  in  the  islands 

of  Samos  and  Chios  ;  the  former  a  high  rocky  mass,  the 
fabled  birthplace  of  Juno  ;  the  other  fair  and  fertile,  clothed 
with  vines  and  gardens.  The  little  valley  of  the  Cayster, 
thus  enclosed  on  either  side,  is  divided  into  an  upper  and 
a  lower  valley  by  a  transverse  range,  through  which  the  river 
breaks  from  the  high  plains  above  to  the  alluvial  lands  and  salt 
marshes  below.  The  upper  plain  was  the  cradle  of  the  conti- 
nent of  Asia,  for  the  oldest  mention  of  the  name  is  where 
Homer  sings  of 

"  The  Asian  meadow  by  the  streams  of  the  Cayster." 

From  this  narrow  valley  the  name  spread  over  all  the  pe- 
ninsula to  the  river  Halys,  and  then  to  the  region  beyond,  as 
Herodotus  distinguishes  between  "Asia  within  the  Halys" 
and  "Asia  beyond  the  Halys."  Later,  Mount  Taurus  was  the 
accepted  boundary  of  what  we  now  know  as  "Asia  Minor." 


Ruins  of  the  Church  of  St.  John 


Bosque  at  Ephesus 


234  Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 

On  one  of  those  fine  sites  that  the  Greeks  knew  so  well 
how  to  select,  on  the  spurs  of  Mount  Coressus  and  Mount  Prion, 
on  the  southern   side  of  the   lower   valley  of  the   Cayster,  an 

Athenian  colony  under  the 
lead  of  Androchis,  son  of  the 
Athenian  King  Codrus,  was 
founded  not  far  from  the  time 
when  David  was  laying  the 
foundations  of  the  kingdom  of 
Israel,  or  Solomon  was  building 
the  temple  at  Jerusalem. 

The  preceding  inhabitants 
of  the  land  were  the  half  myth- 
ical Amazons,  those  strong- 
minded  ladies  of  antiquity,  who  failed  to  establish  the  supremacy 
of  woman,  because — unlike  their  modern  sisters,  they  had  failed 
to  discover  that  the  pen — not  to  say  the  tongue — is  mightier 
than  the  sword.  By  this  ungallant  conquest  was  founded  the 
city   of   Ephesus.     But 

Dies  erit  praegelida 
Sinistra  qtiuni  femina.* 

A  woman  became  its  goddess. 

The  whole  history  of  the  city  shows  traces  of  the  struggle 
between  the  Greek  influences,  centered  in  the  city  on  the  hills, 
and  the  Asiatic  influences  that  clustered  around  the  temple  on 
the  plain,  the  shrine  of  the  goddess,  whose  image — like  the 
Palladium  at  Troy — was  believed  to  have  fallen  from  heaven. 
Again  and  again  the  city  was  saved  from  destruction  at  the 
hands  of  Asiatic  conquerors  by  placing  itself  under  the  protec- 
tion of  the  goddess,  and  at  length  we  see  the  Asiatic  deity,  the 
rude  symbol  of  nature's  fruitfulness,  baptized  with  a  Greek 
name,  and  enshrined  in  a  Greek  temple,  while  the  Greeks 
of  Ephesus  boast  that  their  city  is  neocoros,  temple-sweeper,  to 
the  goddess.  No  divinity  could  be  more  dissimilar  from  the 
chaste  huntress  known  to  the  Greeks  as  Artemis,  and  to  the 
Romans  as  Diana,  than  the  many-breasted  Asiatic  goddess 
that  represented  the  female  principle  in  nature.  Yet  the  identi- 
fication was  made  ;  perhaps  because  the  moon  was  the  symbol  of 
both  divinities  ;  perhaps  because  the  Amazonian  defenders  of  the 
Asiatic  goddess  suggested  the  maiden  companions  of  Artemis. 

♦Wilh  apologies  to  James  Jeffrey  Roche. 


Beirut^  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


235 


Ephesus  was  at  first  outstripped  by  the  more  rapid  growth 
of  its  sister  city  Miletus  ;  it  was  afterwards  surpassed  in  wealth 
and  splendor  by  Sardis ;  it  was  once  tributary  to  Pergamos  ; 
and  it  has  for  centuries  been  in  ruins  while  Smyrna  still  sur- 
vives. But  for  all  that  it  has  an  interest,  even  in  its  ruins, 
unrivaled  by  any  of  its  great  competitors. 

The  patient  researches  of  Wood  have  shown  that  the  sea 
has  not  receded  from  Ephesus  as  was  long  supposed.  It  was 
never  built  by  the  sea,  for  a  Greek  city  required  an  Acropolis, 


^4       .    .    ^. 

v^                      1 

A  Modern  Diana 


and  no  suitable  site  near  the  sea  offered.  So,  as  they  could 
not  bring  the  mountains  to  the  sea,  they  brought  the  sea  to  the 
mountains,  creating  a  harbor  very  much  as  Glasgow  has  been 
made  a  seaport  in  modern  times.  The  waters  of  the  Cayster 
were  turned  into  an  artificial  basin,  which  was  connected  with 
the  sea  by  a  straight  canal.  The  ancient  quays  and  docks  have 
been  brought  to  light,  and  the  German  excavations  now  in 
progress  are  uncovering  the  interior  of  the  amphitheatre,  the 
agora,  the  gymnasium,  the  streets,  the  statues  and  the  houses 
of  this  ancient  city.  If  you  would  know  something  of  its  life, 
I  need  only  refer  you   to  Wallace's  account  of  ancient  .A.ntioch, 


236  Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephcsus 

or  Sienkievvicz's  description  of  ancient  Rome  ;  for  all  cities  then 
were  epitomes  of  Rome — organized  by  Roman  genius,  beauti- 
fied by  Greek  art,  and  corrupted  by  Oriental  luxury. 

Its  great  temple  had  a  history  all  its  own.  It  was  not  in 
the  city,  but  out  on  the  plain  a  mile  or  more  to  the  northeast. 
Its  recent  discovery  by  Wood  is  a  monument  of  British  pluck, 
energy,  patience,  ingenuity  and  scholarship.  The  British 
Museum  furnished  the  means,  and  it  is  there — and  not  at 
Ephesus — that  we  must  look  for  its  more  splendid  remains. 

The  pavements  of  three  successive  temples  were  identi- 
fied ;  the  first  was  planned  by  Chersiphron  in  the  time  of 
Croesus,  replacing  a  still  older  structure  ;  this  was  rebuilt  and 
enlarged  by  Paeonius  in  the  fifth  century  B.  C.  But  in  the 
year  356,  "on  the  same  night  on  which  Alexander  the  Great 
was  born,"  as  ancient  historians  delight  in  telling  us,  this 
temple — the  richest  and  the  most  splendid  in  the  world — was 
burned  to  the  ground  by  one  Herostratus,  who  wished  to  make 
his  name  immortal,  and  did  not  discriminate  too  nicely  between 
fame  and  infamy. 

The  Ephesians  set  about  to  rebuild  it  with  yet  greater 
magnificence,  and  such  was  their  civic  pride  that  when  Alex- 
ander visited  it  before  its  completion,  and  offered  to  pay  the 
whole  cost  from  the  spoils  of  his  eastern  campaigns  if  he  might 
inscribe  his  name  upon  the  pediment,  his  offer  was  refused. 

Wood  has  shown  that  the  temple  rested  upon  a  raised 
platform,  ascended  by  continuous  steps  on  all  sides.  The 
dimensions  at  the  lowest  step  were  four  hundred  and  eighteen 
feet  one  inch  in  length,  and  two  hundred  and  thirty-nine  feet 
four  and  one-half  inches  in  breadth.  Upon  the  platform  was  a 
double  colonnade  all  around,  eight  columns  in  width  and  twenty 
in  length  ;  with  the  pair  of  columns  supporting  the  roof  of  the 
pronaos,  and  the  corresponding  pair  in  the  posticum,  making  a 
hundred  exterior  columns  in  all.  They  were  fifty-six  feet  high, 
and  were  unlike  all  other  ancient  columns,  in  that  they  were 
sculptured  in  high  relief  to  the  height  of  a  man,  with  figures  of 
Amazons  and  warriors.  From  the  group  of  figures  around  the 
base  rose  the  fiuted  shaft,  crowned  with  an  Ionic  capital.  The 
sculptures  are  said  to  be  the  work  of  Scopas,  and  are  of  the  fin- 
est workmanship.  Within  the  temple  were  columns  of  verde 
antique,  some  of  which  are  said  to  be  now  in  St.  Sophia,  while 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


237 


precious  stones  and  marbles  of  every  kind,  paintings  of 
Apelles  and  treasures  of  ancient  art  adorned  its  walls,  or  were 
stored  in  its  vaults. 

Ministering  in  this  temple,  and  supported  by  its  offerings, 
was  a  vast  army  of  priests,  lecturers,  singers  and  servants, 
while  merchants  and  artisans  in  the  city  derived  great  wealth 
from  the  trade  of  the  throngs  of  worshipers  attracted  to  its 
yearly  feasts. 


Ephesus  **  Is  one  ivith  Nine'ueh  eind  Tyre  " 


But  one  day  there  came  a  little  Jew  to  Ephesus  v/ho 
began  to  preach  strange  doctrines,  at  first  in  the  Jewish 
Synagogue,  which  no  one  need  mind,  for  all  knew  the  peculiar 
ideas  Jews  held  as  to  other  gods  than  their  own  ;  but  later  in 
the  school  of  one  of  the  philosophers  or  rhetoricians  of  the 
city.  This  might  be  more  serious,  for  now  the  doctrines  began 
to  attract  the  attention  of  Greeks.  .Still  what  could  the  Jews 
do  against  the  great  goddess,  entrenched  in  the  superstition, 
self-interest  and  pride  of  the  people,  with  the  power  of  wealth, 
the  glory  of  art  and  the  prestige  of  historic  association  all  on 


238 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


cMosque  dt  Epbesus 


her  side?  Yet  the  future  belonged 
to  the  Jew,  for  the  power  of  God 
was  with  him.  In  these  streets, 
now  silent  save  for  the  pick  and 
spade  of  the  explorer,  were 
wrought  two  memorable  scenes  of 
which  the  teachings  of  this  Jew 
were  the  occasion. 

Throughout  Asia  Minor,  be- 
fore words  were  reduced  to  writ- 
ten characters,  there  were  certain 
symbols  in  use  for  the  conveyance  of  ideas  to  persons  at  a 
distance.  Such  probably  were  the  "  tokens  of  woe  "  brought 
by  Bellerophon  to  the  King  of  Lycia.  After  the  art  of  writing 
was  introduced  it  was  natural  that  a  superstitious  significance 
should  be  attached  to  these  ancient  symbols.  Such  probably 
was  the  origin  of  the  "  Ephesus  letters,"  the  interpretation  of 
which  became  a  lucrative  craft  to  a  large  company  of  sooth- 
sayers. But  when  St.  Paul  came  preaching  a  religion  of 
truth  and  not  of  fraud,  '•  so  mightily  grew  the  word  of  God 
and  prevailed  "  that  those  who  practiced  this  black  art  brought 
their  books,  to  the  value  of  50,000  pieces  of  silver,  and  burned 
them  in  the  public  square,  a  scene  for  whose  counterpart  we 
must  look  to  the  Piazza  Signoria  at  Florence,  when  high 
born  dames  burned  their  ornaments  and  luxuries  under  the 
spell  of   the  scorching  eloquence  of  Savonarola. 

The  other  scene  grew  not  out  of  greed  overcome,  but 
arose  from  cupidity  inflamed  to  opposition.  What  a  picture 
that  is  of  a  mob  of  mercurial  people  ;  all  rushing  to  the  theatre 
to  follow  the  crowd  ;  some  shouting  one  thing  and  some 
another ;  the  more  part  knowing  not  why  they  had  come 
together  ;  all  at  length  joining  for  hours  in  the  shout,  "  Great  is 
Diana  of  the  Ephesians  ;  "  the  tactful  Roman  officer  at  length 
allaying  the  excitement  by  an  appeal  to  Roman  law  and  the 
common  sense  of  the  people.  Should  not  the  silent  walls  of 
the  great  amphitheatre  speak  peace  to  our  hearts,  excited  by 
the  fleeting  possessions  of  the  passing  hour  ? 

"  Hush  and  heed  not,  for  all  things  pass." 
Only  truth  is  eternal. 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus  239 

Ephesus  produced  many  orators  and  poets  in  the  days  of 
her  prosperity  ;  but  their  writings  have  perished,  their  very 
names  have  passed,  for  the  most  part,  into  oblivion.  But  from 
this  city  were  written  two  little  books  that  have  become  an 
imperishable  part  of  the  world's  literature.  Ephesus  is  now 
only  a  cemetery,  and  much  of  its  dust  is  the  dust  of  the  dead. 
But  here  were  written  those  words  that,  when  our  dead  are 
committed  to  the  dust,  fill  our  hearts  with  the  blessed  hope  that 
"  this  corruptible  shall  put  on  incorruption,  and  this  mortal  shall 
put  on  immortality." 

Not  far  north  of  Ephesus,  where  Mt.  Ida  overlooks  the 
plain  of  Troy,  the  son  of  Priam  gave  the  reward  of  beauty  to 
the  goddess  of  sensual  love,  and  plunged  the  ancient  world  into 
war.  But  here  in  Ephesus  St.  Paul  places  the  crown  of  pre- 
eminence upon  the  brow  of  Christian  love,  and  wherever  its 
blessed  evangel  reaches  the  hearts  of  men,  it  brings  with  it 
peace  and  good  will. 

And  the  final  associations  with  P'phesus  are  not  with 
St.  Paul,  but  with  St.  John,  who  not  more  truly,  but  perhaps 
more  eminently,  was  the  Apostle  of  love.  It  is  said  that  when 
he  could  no  longer  walk  through  these  streets,  he  was  carried  to 


^ _e 


c4ndent  aqueduct — The  home  of  the  storks 


the  church  in  the  arms  of  faithful  disciples,  and  lifted  to  the 
pulpit  where  he  could  only  say,  "Little  children,  love  one 
another."  No  wonder  that  under  such  holy  teaching,  timid 
maidens  when  confronted  in  the  theatre  with  the  question. 
"  Diana  or  Christ,"  chose  Christ  and  death,  rather  than  Diana 
and  earthly  happiness. 


240  Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 

When  Justinian  came  here  to  build  the  splendid  church, 
whose  ruined  portals  we  still  can  see,  it  was  rightly  named  "St. 
John  Theolog-os,"  for  here  the  aged  Apostle  wrote  that  gospel 
that  most  fully  reveals  the  Word  made  flesh  ;  the  glory  as  of 
the  Only  begotten  of  the  Father.  And  though  city  and  church 
have  perished,  it  is  not  the  name  of  Diana  but  the  name  of  the 
beloved  disciple  whose  echo  still  survives  in  the  name  of  the 
village  that  marks  the  spot,  Ayas-alouk — John  Theologos." — 
Rev.  Peyton  H.  Hodge,  D.  D. 

The  Mock  Trial  of  W.  R.  Hamilton,  Sometime  Physician   and  Surgeon 

Humorous  incident  of  the  voyage  between  Malta  and 
Alexandria,  February  23.  As  Mark  Twain  remarks,  "  No  ship 
ever  went  to  sea  that  hadn't  a  Mock  Trial  on  Board,"  and  we 
had  ours  of  course.  Dr.  Hamilton,  as  you  may  see,  from  the 
indictment,  was  accused  of  various  fearful  and  terrible  things  : 

INDICTMENT 

Ottoman  Empire,  Dainpfer  Aller 

Royal  High  Court  of  Backsheesh. 

The  chief  order  of  the  Royal  High  Court  of  Backshecih,  to  wit :  the 
(Irand  Inquest  sitting  on  the  steamship  Aller,  within  said  empire,  present  one 
W.  R.  Hamilton,  alias  Doctor,  alias  L.L.  D.,  alias  Dentist,  alias  Veterinary 
Surgeon,  alias  Grand  Spokesman  and  Adviser,  alias  an  Instructor  to  those  who 
are  personally  conducted,  he  himself  being  one  time  personally  conducted, 
once  of  Pennsylvania,  an  alleged  spot  within  the  realm  of  one  "  McKinley  " 
and  now  commorant  and  assuming  the  office  of  conductor  within  our  said 
empire  and  within  the  jurisdiction  of  this  humble  court,  did  on  the  twenty- 
third  day  of  February,  this  current  year,  being  known  among  Christians  as 
the  year  of  1898,  at  and  witliin  said  empire  and  within  the  jurisdiction  of 
said  court,  unlawfully  write  and  deliver  or  cause  to  be  delivered  to  one  L.  B. 
Lewis,  on  said  Aller  a  certain  libelous,  scurrilous  and  threatening  letter,  said 
Lewis  then  and  there  being  a  rival  conductor  in  the  troupe  known  as  the  Clark 
Contingent,  and  a  loud,  garrulous  and  flirtatious  young  man  inclined  to  the 
society  of  the  gentler  sex,  which  letter,  it  is  prayed,  may  be  submitted  in 
evidence  in  support  of  this  indictment,  the  same  being  too  scurrilous  to  spread 
upon  the  record.  An  authenticated  copy  of  said  letter  has  been  submitted  to 
said  accused,  all  against  the  dignity,  peace  and  order  of  said  empire  and 
contrary  to  the  code  of  said  realm  in  this  case  made  and  provided. 

Second  Count 
And  your  Grand  Inquest  further  present  said  VV.  R.  Hamilton,  aliased 
and  described  as  aforesaid  in  said  count,  known  as  count  first  of  this  indict- 
ment, that  said  Hamilton  did  at  various  times  and  places,  within  said  realm 
and  within  the  jurisdiction  of  said  court,  to  wit  :  On  a  steamship  Aller,  and 
at  a  time  and  times  from  and  between  the  twenty-third  day  of  February,  1898, 
and  the  eighteenth  day  of  March  of  said  year,  continuously  and  inclusively  in 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephesus 


241 


**  Said  and  aforesaid  aliased  Hamilton  ' 


pursuance  of  the  threats  set  forth  in  said  threatening  letter  referred  to  in  said 
first  count  of  this  indictment,  which  said  letter  the  government  will  produce 
and  now  offers  to  produce,  and  with  the  intent  to  carry  out  said  threats,  unlaw- 
fully threaten  the  life  of  said  Lewis  by  firing  at  him  from  a  pistol  and  by 
further  striking  at  said  Lewis  with  a  sword  or  scimetar  with  intent  to  injure  or 
maime  said  Lewis  and  deprive  him  of  the  power  to  further  conduct  said  troupe 
and  to  send  him  prematurely  and  without  sufficient  preparation  to  Sheol. 

Third  Count 
And  your  said  inquest  further  present  said  Hamilton,  aliased  and  described 
as  aforesaid,  his  place  of  domicile  being  on  said  A  Her  and  within  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  said  Honorable  Court,  that  said  Hamilton  did  unlawfully  have,  possess 
and  conceal  sundry  weapons,  a  more  particular  description  of  said  weapons 
being  to  your  jurors  unknown,  with  intent  then  and  there  to  wit :  On  said 
eighteenth  day  of  March,  1898,  to  injure,  maim,  destroy,  kill  or  otherwise 
disturb  one  L.  B.  Lewis,  now  on  said  A//er  and  within  the  jurisdiction  of 
this  court. 

Foreman,  Grand  Incjuest  Backsheesh, 

W.  M.  BELL 

It  was  also  necessary  as  part  of  the  evidence  to  reproduce 

the  alleged  letter  sent  Mr.  Lewis  upon  which  the  indictment 

was  founded  : 

Steamship  Aller,  Feb.  23,  1898 
Mr.  L.  B.  Lewis  : 

Haying  but  recently  diagnosed  the  identity  of  your  personality  as  the 
contumaceous  individual  wlio  aided  and  abetted  in  the  racket  produced  in  the 
hall-way  opposite  my  Cabin  de  Luxe  last,  evening,  to  the  disturbance  of  my 
nocturnal  rest,  I  herewith  denounce  you  in  conjunctivity  with  others  as  a 
disturber  of  the  peace,  and  as  an  anatomical  congestion  of  eruptic  bacilli. 


242 


Beirut,  Damascus,  Smyrna,  Ephcsus 


Should  it  be  your  misfortune  to  fall  into  my  hands,  as  an  impatient,  1 
would  delight  in  disrupting  your  epigarsis. 

Fiend  beware,  for  if  opportunity  offers  I  shall  certainly  amputate  your 
amphithoral  mumgoosley  bob. 

Yours  disrespectfully, 

DOCTOR  W.   R.   HAMILTON 

The  make  up  of  the  court  was  as  follows  : 

Judge — Hon.  S.  M.  Cutcheon. 

Clerk  of  Court— Jas.  G.  Shepherd. 

Sheriff— H.  R.  Wilson. 

Crier— W.  J.  McMuUin. 

Prosecuting  Attorneys — Hon.  F.  D.  Allen,  Isaac  M.  Jackson. 

Defense  Attorneys — J.  J.  Russell,  Col.  A.  F.  Seltzer. 

Jury — S.  D.  Presbrey,  foreman ;  Rev.  Jos.  Schmitt,  Chas.  McFeeley, 
J.  W.  Stoddard,  Geo.  W.  Selden,  G.  Waldo  Smith,  Mrs.  F.  I).  Allen,  Miss 
Laura  Ruddle,  Mrs.  A.  J.  P.  McClure,  Miss  E.  Rumsey,  Miss  Florence 
Presbrey  and  Miss  Caroline  Archbold. 

Oath  for  Jury  used  by  Clerk — By  the  Pyramids  of  Cheops,  by  the  Sphinx 
and  temples  of  Luxor,  you  do  promise  to  pay  no  attention  to  the  weight  of 
evidence  or  the  truth  of  witnesses  but  will  be  governed  entirely  in  your  verdict 
by  the  amount  of  backsheesh  you  may  be  paid. 

Witnesses'  oath  used  by  Clerk — By  Menese  ancient  king,  by  Seti  and 
Rameses  II,  you  promise  not  to  tell  the  truth,  the  whole  truth  or  any  part  of 
the  truth. 

Verdict  of  Jury — The  jury  disagree  on  the  main  charge,  but  in  the  testi- 
mony given  we  find  him  guilty  of  swindling  the  Governor  of  Malta  at  poker 
and  recommend  a  considerable  fine  which  shall  be  divided  among  the  "Jury." 

The  oaths  administered  to  the  witnesses  tosfether  with  the 
verdict  of  the  jury  have  a  uniqueness  and  an  appropriateness 
which  are  delightful.  However,  as  one  of  the  witnesses,  placed 
upon  a  high  table  in  the  midst  of  the  large  assemblage  in  the 
dining  saloon  and  questioned  facetiously  by  the  prosecuting  and 
defensive  attorneys,  I  can  testify  that  there  was  more  somberness 
and  less  amusement  in  it  than  might  have  been  anticipated. 


Cornered 


CONSTANTINOPLE 


CONSTANTINOPLE 

Bibliography 

Freeman,  E.  A.     Ottoman  Power  in  Europe  ;  Growth  ;  Decline.     London.     (Preface 

contains  list  of  Freeman's  magazine  articles  on  same  subject  for  twenty  years.) 
Garnett,  Miss  Lucy  M.  J.     The  Women  of  Turkey  and  Their  Folklore.     2  vols. 

London.     (Vol.  I  deals  with  the  Jewish   and  Moslem   women,  and  contains 

concluding  chapters  on  the  origin  of  matriarchy ;  Vol.  11,  Christian  women  in 

Turkey,  etc.) 
Lane-Poole,  Stanley.    Turkey.     New  York. 
Latimer,  Elizaheth  Wormeley.     Russia  and  Turkey  in  the  Nineteenth  Century. 

pp.  413.     Chicago. 
Ramsay.     Impressions  of  Turkey  During  Twelve  Years'  Wanderings.     New  York. 
De   Laveleve,    E.      The   Balkan    Peninsula.     Translated.     London.    (Turkey   in 

Europe  including  all  Balkan  Peninsuli,  except  Greece.) 
Oman,  C.  W.  C.     The  Byzantine  Empire.     Map  and  illustrations.     Index.     (Story 

of  the  Nations  Series.)     New  York. 
Grosvenok,   Edwin   A.      Constantinople.      2   vols.      Introduction   by   Gen.    Lew 

Wallace.     Latest  and  best. 
Amicis,  Edmondo  DE.    Constantinople,    pp.326.    Illustrated.    New  York  (Putnam), 

1896. 
CoNFOroNLOS,   Dametrams.     a  Guide  to  Constantinople.     London.     New  York. 

Constantinople. 
Wallace,  Susan  E.     Along  the  Bosphorus. 
Hughes,  T.  P.     A  Dictionary  of  Islam.     (Being  a  cyclopedia  of  the  doctrines,  rites, 

ceremonies  and  customs,  together  with  the  technical  and  theological  terms  of 

the  Mohammedan  religion.)     Illustrated.     Royal  8vo.     New  York  (Scribner). 
Irving,  Washington.     Mohammed  and  His  Successors.     New  York  (Putnam). 
Elliott,  Mrs.  Minto.     The  Diary  of  an  Idle  Woman  in  Constantinople.     Maps. 

Illustrations.     London. 

Fiction 

CoRELLi,  Marie.     Barabbas. 

Ludlow,  James  M.     Captain  of  the  Janizaries  :  A  Story  of  the  Time  of  Scanderbeg 

and  the  Fall  of  Constantinople. 
Southgate,  Horatio.     Cross  Above  the  Crescent :  A  Romance  of  Constantinople. 
Wallace,  Lew.     Prince  of  India :  or,  Why  Constantinople  Fell. 
Pardoe,  Julia.     Romance  of  the  Harem. 
-Scott,  Sir  Walter.     Count  Robert  of  Paris. 
MuHLBACH,  Louisa.     The  Lion  of  Janina  ;  or.  The  Last  Days  of  the  Janissaries  :  A 

Turkish  Novel.      (Translated   by   R.    Besbet   Bain.)      Maurus   Jokai.     (The 

novel  belongs  to  Mohammed  Ali  and  his  house.) 
Tru.mhle,  Alfred.     Sword  and  Scimetar. 

Periodicals 

The   Building  of  an  Empire.     (John   Brisben   Walker)   Cosmopolitan  (New  York). 

Vol.  26,  p.  464  (February,  1899),  Part    i,  Mohammed;  Vol.  26,  p.  641   (March, 

1899).     To  be  continued. 
Sultan  at  Home.     (S.  Whitman)  Harper,  Vol.  98,  p.  276  (January,  1899) ;  Review  of 

Reviews,  Vol.  19,  p.  95  (January,  1899). 
Constantinople:  The  City  and  Its  People.     (Peter  Mac(2ueen)  Cosmopolitan,  Vol.  23, 

p.  115  (June,  1897). 


Constantinople 
"  There  were  very  few,   if  any,   days  during  the  cruise   on 
which  the  enthusiasm  of  our  ship's  company  was  aroused  to  a 
greater  height  tlian  on  the  day  of  our  approach  to  and  landing 
in  the  harbor  of  Constantinople. 

C  'iVy ) 


246  Constantinople 

We  were  aroused  at  five  o'clock  on  the  morning  of  Sun- 
day, March  20th,  when  our  ship  was  at  the  entrance  of  the  Dar- 
danelles, "  The  Ancient  Hellespont,"  so  we  would  have  an  oppor- 
tunity to  view  the  site  of  ancient  Troy. 

Readers  will  remember  the  Dardanelles  as  a  narrow  strait 
connecting-  tlie  ^'Egean  Sea  with  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 

As  we  progressed  through  the  Dardanelles  our  thoughts 
naturally  reverted  to  the  story  of  Leander  swimming  the  Hel- 
lespont. Perhaps  it  may  be  of  interest  to  recall  briefly  this 
ancient  story. 

Hero  in  Greek  mythology  was  a  priestess  of  Venus  at 
Sestos,  who  was  beloved  by  Leander,  native  of  Abydos.  It  was 
Leander's  habit  to  swim  across  the  Hellespont  nightly  to  visit 
his  beloved  Hero.  During  one  tempestuous  night,  however, 
he  was  drowned,  and  in  the  morning  the  waves  cast  his  body  on 
the  shore.    When  Hero  beheld  it  she  threw  herself  into  the  sea. 

This  feat  of  Leander  having  been  boasted  about  through 
so  many  centuries.  Lord  Byron  determined  to  accomplish  the 
same  feat,  and  on  the  3d  of  May,  18 10,  swam  the  Dardanelles 
from  Sestos  to  Abydos,  and  after  he  had  successfully  accom- 
plished the  feat,  wrote  a  poem  in  a  humorous  vein  concerning 
it,  from  which  I  quote  one  stanza  : 

"  'Twere  hard  to  say  who  fared  the  best, 

Sad  mortals  !   thus  the  gods  still  plague  you. 
He  lost  his  labour,  I  my  jest, 

For  he  was  drowned  and  I've  the  ague." 

On  the  morning  of  our  passage  through  the  Dardanelles 
the  air  was  so  cold  we  could  not  think  of  the  feats  of  Leander 
and  Lord  Byron  without  a  chill.  According  to  Lord  Byron's 
notes  the  distance  from  the  place  where  he  started  to  his  land- 
ing, including  the  length  caused  by  the  current,  was  about 
four  English  miles,  although  the  actual  breadth  of  the  Darda 
nelles  at  this  point  is  only  about  one  mile. 

After  passing  through  the  Dardanelles  we  emerged  into 
the  sea  of  Marmora,  and  were  for  a  time  out  of  sight  of  land. 
During  this  time,  as  it  was  the  .Sabbath  day,  we  had  our  cus- 
tomary religious  services  on  the  ship. 

At  about  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  our  eyes  were 
greeted  by  a  vision  of  such  wonderful  beauty  and  grandeur  that  we 
can  hope  to  have  it  paralleled  but  few  times,  if  ever,  in  life's  span. 


Constantinople 


247 


The  day  of  our  approach  was  a  perfect  one  in  the  spring- 
time of  the  /Kgean.  As  the  slender  and  graceful  minarets  and 
gilded  domes  of  the  hundreds  of  mosques  of  Constantinople, 
the  palaces,  towers  and  fortresses  and  other  imposing  structures 
came  into  view  the  si^ht  was  one  to  excite  the  liveliest  emotions. 

We  had  been  told  that  inside  were  dogs  and  filth.  Never- 
theless nothing  could  keep  down  our  exultation  in  the  presence 
of  such  overpowering  splendor.  Our  ship  passed,  without 
stopping,  through  the  Bosphorus,  which  is  so  narrow  we  could 
see    distinctly  all    the    structures  both    on    the    European   and 


On  the  Bosphorus  in  front  of  the  old  PaUce 


Asiatic  side  of  Constantinople.  The  structures  were,  many  of 
them,  of  most  peculiar  architecture,  unlike  anything  to  be  seen 
in  our  own  country. 

Our  ship  made  its  way  into  the  Black  Sea,  and  when  it  had 
fairly  cleared  the  Bosphorus,  after  a  brief  run,  swung  around 
and  made  its  way  back  to  the  dock  at  Constantinople. 

The  name  of  the  city  was  originally  Byzantium,  but  it  was 
merged  into  Constantinople  A.  I).  330,  after  its  capture  by 
Constantine  the  Great.  He  rebuilt  the  city  and  made  it  the 
capital  of  the  Roman  Empire.  F"rom  the  date  above  given 
until  its  capture  by  the  Turks,  in  1453,  it  was  a  Christian  city. 
Since  the  latter  date,  however,  it  has  remained  in  possession  of 
the  Turks  undisturbed  as  the  chief  Moslem  city  of  the  world. 


248 


Constantinople 


One  cannot  walk  or  ride  along  through  the  streets  of  Con- 
stantinople without  noticing  the  great  number  of  wolfish-looking 
dogs  upon  the  streets.  They  are  ownerless  dogs,  and  the 
stranger  is  filled  with  surprise  at  their  great  numbers.  I  asked 
Professor  Van  Millingen,  of  Robert  College,  why  so  many  dogs 
were  allowed  on  the  streets,  and  he  answered  my  question  in 
one  word,  "scavengers." 


Interior  of  the  Mosque  of  St.  Sopljia 


The  dogs  are  said  to  act  as  watch  dogs  at  night  and  to  sleep 
in  the  daytime.  Sometimes  in  our  walks  we  would  have  diffi- 
culty in  getdng  along  without  treading  on  them,  and  would  have 
to  pick  our  way  between  them  as  they  lay  sound  asleep  curled 
up  on  the  corners  of  the  streets. 

Our  observation  is  that  various  groups  of  dogs  are  jealous 
as  to  any  encroachments  upon  their  bailiwicks  by  strange  dogs. 
A  story  passed  current  on  our   ship   that   the  penalty  was  as 


I 


Constantinople  249 

great  for  killing  a  dog  in  Constantinople  as  for  killing  a  man, 
viz.  :  fifteen  years'  imprisonment.  I  did  not  have  an  opportu- 
nity to  verify  this  statement,  but  must  confess  it  would  not  be 
greatly  at  variance  with  the  so-called  justice  meted  out  by  the 
Turks. 

Many  of  the  streets  of  Constantinople  are  narrow  and  ill 
paved  and  grotesquely  irregular  and  crooked. 

Of  the  public  buildings  we  visited  the  most  remarkable  is 
the  Church  of  Saint  Sophia.  It  was  built  by  the  Emperor  Jus- 
tinian, in  the  fifth  century,  as  a  Christian  Church.  It  is  said 
Justinian  wanted  to  pave  its  floors  with  plates  of  gold,  but 
instead  used  variegated  marbles,  and  it  is  related  when  this 
temple  was  completed  the  Emperor  averred  that  it  exceeded  in 
magnificence  the  temple  of  Solomon  at  Jerusalem,  and  he  caused 
a  statue  of  Solomon,  with  a  grieved  expression  on  his  face,  to 
be  erected  facing  the  temple.  I  was  much  interested  in  a  con- 
versation with  a  member  of  a  firm  of  eminent  architects  of  Bos- 
ton who  was  one  of  our  party.  He  informed  me  that  the  Saint 
Sophia  is  considered  the  central  building,  historically,  of  the 
world,  being  the  first  domical  building  resting  on  pendentives 
(spherical  triangles).  It  was  designed  by  a  Greek,  and  to  a  cer- 
tain extent  modified  all  succeeding  church  architecture.  I  con- 
fess  I  was  deeply  impressed  by  this  wonderful  structure,  which 
is  considered  to  be,  without  questicm,  the  finest  mosque  in  the 
world.  It  is  interesting  to  note  that  the  "Saint  Sophia"  is  not 
meant  to  be  the  designation  of  any  special  saint,  but  simply 
means  "  divine  wisdom." 

A  very  pleasing  experience  came  to  our  party  through 
meeting  in  the  Museum  in  Stamboul  the  Rev.  Dr.  Albert  L. 
Long,  vice-president  of  Robert  College,  Constantinople,  an  old 
friend  of  the  family  of  the  writer.  Dr.  Long  has  been  a  resident 
of  Constantinople  for  forty  years,  and  it  was  a  most  fortunate 
circumstance  to  meet  one  so  well  informed  with  regard  to 
things  we  most  wished  to  know  about  there,  and  who  was  also 
one  of  our  own  people. 

One  of  the  most  agreeable  of  our 
experiences  at  Constantinople  was  a  sail 
up  the  Golden  Horn.  The  Golden 
Horn  is  an  arm  of  the  sea  about  five 
miles     in     extent,    furnishing     a     most 

A  qhmpse  Mo  the  BUck  Sea 


Piik>.-J 


250 


Constantinople 


desirable  harbor  for  shipping.  Dr.  Long-  called  our  attention 
to  the  fact  that  originally  the  name  of  the  Golden  Horn  was 
Wolf  Creek,  but  inasmuch  as  this  arm  of  the  sea  very  much 
resembles  a  horn  in  shape,  it  in  some  way  came  to  be  called  the 
"Golden  Horn,"  probably  because  of  the  rich  commerce  of 
Constantinople. 

The  last  hour  of  our  stay  in  the  harbor  at  Constantinople 
was  enjoyed  in  listening  to  a  lecture  on  board  our  ship  by  Prof. 
Alexander  Van  Millingen,  of  Robert  College,  on  Constantinople 
and  the  Turks. 


cMosqae  of  Sultan  Ahmed 


He  told  us  how  Constantinople  as  a  Christian  city,  during 
the  middle  ages,  had,  time  after  time,  beaten  back  from  its 
walls  the  tides  of  barbaric  invasion,  which  if  they  had  swept  by 
Constantinople  would  certainly  have  menaced,  if  they  had  not 
destroyed,  the  civilization  of  western  Europe. 

I  had  never  realized  before  the  debt  which  Europe  and  the 
world  owes  Constantinople  for  its  heroic  resistance  of  barbaric 
invasions  during  the  middle  ages.  It  seems  a  great  pity  that  a 
city  which  so  nobly  withstood  for  so  many  hundreds  of  years  the 
onslaughts  of  barbarism,  should  have  been  compelled  to  yield 
at  last  to  Turkish  domination  only  about  four  and  a  half  cen- 


turies ago. 


Constantinople  251 

It  was  a  matter  of  regret  to  our  ship's  company  that  we 
did  not  have  an  opportunity  to  visit  Robert  College,  Constanti- 
nople. This  institution,  which  bears  the  name  of  a  worthy 
citizen  of  our  imperial  New  York,  is  doing  great  work  in  Con- 
stantinople, as  is  the  American  College  at  Beirut,  another 
Turkish  city,  the  chief  support  of  both  these  institutions  being 
derived  from  our  country.  My  information  is  that  the  men  who 
are  really  holding  the  reins  of  government  to-day  in  Bulgaria 
are  mostly  graduates  of  Robert  College. 

The  students  of  this  institution  gave  us  a  grand  salute  as 
our  ship  steamed  by  en  route  to  the  Black  Sea.  They  waved 
the  stars  and  stripes  at  us  from  the  windows  of  the  college 
buildings,  a  strange  sight,  indeed,  for  the  capital  of  Turkey." — 
Archbold. 

The  Address  of  Professor  Alexander  van  Millingfen  Was  an  Answer  to 
the  Question — What  Makes  Constantinople  Worthy  of  a  Visit  ? 

In  reply  to  this  (juestion,  the  lecturer  dwelt :  i.  Upon  the 
great  natural  beauty  of  the  situation  of  the  city,  with  the  Bos- 
phorus  on  the  one  hand,  the  Sea  of  Marmora  on  the  other,  and 
at  a  point  where  the  continents  of  Europe  and  Asia  are  only 
half  a  mile  apart.  Here  is  a  conformation  of  land  and  sea, 
which  brings  river,  lake,  hills,  islands  and  mountains  together 
to  present  one  of  the  fairest  scenes  of  nature  that  can  charm 
the  human  eye  anywhere  in  the  world.  As  an  American  trav- 
eler e.vclaimed.  when  looking  on  this  wonderful  panorama  of 
beauty,  "Certainly,  the  Lord  has  done  His  part." 

2.  Another  attraction  of  Constantinople,  upon  which  the 
lecturer  expatiated,  is  the  Oriental  life  and  scenery  of  the  city ; 
mosques,  turbans,  veiled  ladies,  latticed  windows,  flowing  robes, 
bazaars,  street-dogs,  caiques,  cypress-groves  and  a  thousand 
other  peculiarities,  which  put  before  the  traveler  from  the  West 
a  community  of  human  beings  living  in  an  entirely  different 
social  system  from  that  with  which  he  is  familiar. 

3.  In  the  next  place,  the  historical  attractions  of  Constanti- 
nople were  indicated.  It  stands  next  to  Athens,  Rome  and 
Jerusalem,  in  its  influence  upon  the  course  of  human  affairs. 
Here  the  Roman  Empire  endured  for  a  thousand  years  after  its 
western  dominion  had  been  conquered  by  the  German  tribes. 
Here  a  new  form  of  beauty  and  the  art,  of  which  the  Church  of 


252 


Constantinople 


Galata  from  Stamtoul  and  Ibe  famous  bridge  of  boats  connecting  Europe  and  Asia 


St.  Sophia  is  the  flower  and  highest  type,  was  evolved.  Here 
Roman  law  was  codified  to  become  the  foundation  of  justice  in 
the  civilized  world  of  modern  times.  Here  the  Church  elabo- 
rated her  profoundest  thoughts  on  the  facts  of  her  faith.  Here 
the  literature  of  ancient  Greece  was  treasured  and  then  trans- 
mitted to  western  Europe,  to  bring  about  the  revival  of  learn- 
ing. Here  for  more  than  a  thousand  years  a  stand  was  made 
against  the  assaults  of  orientalism  and  barbarism  upon  the  life 
of  Europe,  similar  to  the  stand  made  against  the  Persian  by  the 
Greek  in  the  heroic  days  when  Marathon  and  Salamis,  and 
Plataea  became  names  that  will  never  die.  Here,  at  length,  the 
Roman  empire  fell  and  passed  away,  giving  place  to  its 
destroyers,  the  Ottoman  Turks. 

4.  The  lecturer  finally  explained,  at  some  length,  the 
so-called  "Eastern  Question,"  showing  that  it  has  been  occa- 
sioned by  the  fundamental  principle  upon  which  a  Moslem 
people  governs  conquered  nations  of  a  different  faith,  denying 
to  Christian  subjects  political  equality.  Such  a  principle  leads, 
inevitably,  to  an  antagonism  that  nothing  can  remove.  Hence 
the  chronic  dissatisfaction  of  the  Christian  races  of  Turkey  with 


Constantinople  253 

their  rulers  ;  hence  their  dreams  of  liberation,  hence  their  insur- 
rections, hence  the  measures  with  which  they  have  been 
repressed.  But  this  conflict  between  the  Turkish  government 
and  its  Christian  subjects  has  not  been  left  to  be  fought  out 

solely  between  the  two 
parties  directly  con- 
cerned. It  has  inter- 
ested the  European 
nations  generally,  and 
led  them,  sometimes  out 
of  sympathy  with  the 
oppressed,  sometimes 
with  the  object  of  gain- 
ing territory,  sometimes 
in  order  to  thwart  one 
another,  to  interfere  in 


the  conflict,  with  the 
result,  however,  that 
Greece,  Servia,  Rou- 
mania  and  Bulgaria 
have  been  withdrawn 
from  the  Turkish  rule 
and  created,  to  all  in- 
tents and  purposes,  in- 
dependent states.  In 
all  this  weakening  of 
the  Turkish  power  by 
external    force,    Russia 


The  Sublime  Porte 


Saint  Sophia 


Tree  of  the  janissaries 


254 


Constantinople 


lias  taken  the  leading  part.  Had  it  been  certain  that  Russian 
action  was  purely  disinterested,  all  Christian  peoples  under 
Turkish  rule  would  probably,  ere  this,  have  been  liberated 
from  that  domination.  But  the  belief  that  Russia  seeks  for 
herself  Constantinople,  and  the  control  of  the  territories 
between  the  Adriatic  and  the  Persian  Gulf  has  ranged  the 
other  nations  of  Europe,  and,  not  least,  England  against  her. 
Hence  the  definite  solution  of  the  "  Eastern  Question  "  awaits 
either  a  friendly  understanding  between  the  European  powers 
as  to  disposal  of  the  Turkish  domain,  or,  like  the  Gordian  knot, 
will  be  settled  by  the  might  of  the  sword. — Delivered  in  Main 
Saloon  of  Dampfer  Aller,  Harbor  of  Constantinople. 


The  Dogs  of  Constantinople 
At  one  spot  I  counted  seventeen  dogs  in  all  stages  of  indo- 
lence and  stupor.  These  dogs  are  remarkable,  not  for  any  deeds 
of  valor,  they  have  never  been  known  to  jump  into  the  Bosphorus 
and  save  a  drowning  man  from  a  watery  grave,  nor  is  their 
sagacity  or  fidelity  to  their  masters  their  forte  ;  but  in  supreme 
inaction  and  content  they  surpass  the  rest  of  the  canine  world. 
Like  the  western  desperado,  whom  his  friends  left  hanging  on 
a  limb  in  the  prairie,  they  are  in  their  normal  state,  "  uncon- 
sarned  and  quiet  like."  An  exuberant  Michigan  friend  of  mine 
counted  31  dogs  on  a  spot  ten  feet  or  more  in  diameter  and  he 
said  he  could  have  counted  over  a  hundred,  but  he  was  in  a 
hurry.  These  dogs  have  a  code  of  canonical  laws  by  which 
Constantinople  is  districted  and  each  one  has  his  department  of 
inaction,  and  transgressions  are  punished  according  to  police 


doer  reo-ulations. 


We  saw  a  flock  of  sheep 
congesting  the  street,  but  the 
dogs  in  front  of  tlie  sheep, 
unlike  Mark  Twain's  dogs  in  his 
description,  seemed  to  realize  in 
a  measure  that  they  would  be 
unhappy  should  they  remain 
curled  up  asleep. — a.j.  p.  McC. 


Sireei  Dogs  GMore 


Constantinople  255 

Constantinople  Art  Treasures 

One  cannot  help  feeling  deeply  gratified  at  seeing  the  use 
which  is  being  made  of  the  Porcelain  Kiosk  in  the  Old  Seraglio 
grounds  in  Constantinople.  That  this  building,  which  was  the 
first  structure  erected  by  the  conqueror  after  the  capture  of  the 
city,  should  be  not  only  preserved  itself  as  an  architectural  gem, 
but  should  also  serve  as  the  conservatory  of  ancient  art,  is 
highly  significant.  The  brazen  head  of  one  of  the  serpents  of 
the  twisted  column,  which  once  supported  the  tripod  of  the 
priestess  of  Delphi,  and,  standing  in  the  Hippodrome,  attracted 
the  attention  of  the  victorious  monarch  on  his  conquering 
advance  to  the  great  church  of  St.  Sophia,  and  was  shattered 
by  a  stroke  from  his  ponderous  battle-ax,  is  there  in  the  same 
room  with  the  Cylinder  of  Nabonidus  and  other  cuneiform 
records  of  Sennacherib's  victorious  campaign  against  King 
Hezekiah,  and  along  with  objects  from  Schliemann's  excava- 
tions of  ancient  Troy.  In  the  adjoining  apartment  is  the  Jeru- 
salem Stele,  a  stone  from  the  Temple  Court  at  Jerusalem  pro- 
hibiting the  entrance  of  a  foreigner  (that  is  a  Gentile)  within  the 
sacred  enclosure  on  pain  of  death,  a  stone  upon  which  there 
can  be  but  little  doubt  our  Lord  has  frequently  looked.  Just 
alongside  of  this  precious  object  of  biblical  antiquity  is  the  stone 
bearing  the  recently  discovered  Siloam  inscription,  with  its  con- 
firmation of  history  in  regard  to  the  construction  of  the  Siloam 
aqueduct  tunnel.  Outside,  upon  the  marble  corridor,  stands  also 
the  colossal  Meikart  of  Gaza,  which  attracts  the  attention  of  the 
Assyriologist  by  the  striking  resemblance  which  it  bears  to  the 
legendary  Chaldean  hero  Gizdubar,  as  he  is  represented  upon 
the  oldest  cylinder  seals.  Thus  the  collection  of  objects  here 
preserved  establishes  the  connection  from  the  time  of  the  erec- 
tion of  the  building  back  through  the  ages  to  the  earliest  historic 
period. 

Facing  this  building,  and  about  two  hundred  feet  distant, 
stands  the  new  museum  building  with  its  broad  marble  steps 
and  massive  columns  quite  in  the  best  modern  style  of  public 
buildings,  with  an  inscription  over  the  portico  in  ancient  Cufic 
characters  signifying  Museum  of  Antiquities.  This  beautiful 
new  building,  almost  completed,  has  been  erected  mainly  by  pri- 
vate funds  furnished  by  His  Imperial  Majesty,  the  present  Sul- 
tan, to  the  enterprising  and  accomplished  director,  Hamdi  Bey. 


256 


Constantinople 


If  any  one  is  curious  to  know  the  origin  of  this  unexpected 
zeal  manifested  by  the  ruler  of  this  land  in  regard  to  objects  of 
anciquity,  let  him  procure  his  ticket  at  the  modest  cost  of  one 
shilling  and  enter  that  new  building,  and  he  will  find  that  that 
additional  structure  contains  inestimable  treasures  which  might 
well  excite  the  envy  of  the  richest  museums  of  the  world.     The 


street  In  front  of  Mosque 


two  large  rooms  upon  the  ground  floor  are  stocked  with  the 
Sidon  Sarcophagi,  all  of  which  are  valuable  and  interesting,  but 
two  of  which  are  so  surpassingly  beautiful  as  to  richly  deserve 
a  special  palace  to  enclose  them. 

The  central  object  of  attraction  is  the  so-called  Alexander 
Sarcophagus.  The  director,  Hamdi  Bey,  has,  I  believe,  never 
claimed  for  it  that  it  is  the  actual  tomb  of  Alexander  the  Great, 
but,  inasmuch  as  it  bears  the  undoubted  portrait  of  Alexander 
the  Great,  easily  recognizable  by  every  one  who  has  ever  held 


Constantinople  257 

in  his  hand  one  of  the  best  coins  or  medallions  of  the  Macedo- 
nian conqueror,  this  magnificent  tomb,  worthy  of  him  or  any 
other  monarch  who  ever  lived,  has  received  by  general  popular 
consent  the  name  of  the  "  Alexander  tomb." 

It  is  a  rectangular,  temple-shaped,  marble  structure,  more 
than  three  meters  high,  and  covered  with  an  imitation  tile  roof, 
ornamented  with  exquisitely  cut  volutes,  heads  of  goats  and  of 
lions,  with  a  Greek  border  of  peculiar  pattern  and  a  vine  leaf 
the  perfection  of  elegance  and  accuracy  of  detail.  Never  have 
I  seen  the  work  of  elaborate  ornamentation  carried  out  with 
such  micrometric  fidelity  and  harmony  of  idea.  The  material 
being  of  the  purest  and  finest-grained  marble  has  admitted  of 
such  a  fineness  and  delicacy  of  finish  that  the  unwary  finger 
passed  over  them  may  be  cut  as  with  a  knife  by  the  sharp  mar- 
ble edge. 

The  subjects  treated  in  high  relief  on  two  sides  are  a  battle 
scene  and  a  lion  hunt.  The  battle  scene  is  a  hand-to-hand 
combat  between  Persians  and  Greeks.  The  former  are  distin- 
guished by  their  dress,  their  weapons  and  their  physiognomy, 
the  latter  are  in  the  classic  half  clothing  which  characterizes  the 
figures  upon  the  frieze  of  the  Parthenon. 

In  looking  upon  this  scene  one  is  immediately  led  to  the 
conviction  that  the  most,  if  not  all,  of  the  Greek  faces  and 
some,  at  least,  of  the  Persian  are  portraits.  Individuality  is 
stamped  upon  each  one  of  them.  No  two  are  alike.  Even  the 
war  horses  have  an  individuality.  No  two  are  alike,  but  each 
one  bears  that  peculiar  individual  trait  of  equine  physiognomy 
which  enables  the  true  lover  of  horses  to  pick  out  his  favorite 
animal  from  among  hundreds  of  companions. 

At  the  extreme  left  is  Alexander  mounted  upon  a  superb 
charger.  He  is  represented  as  faithfully  as  though  photographed 
from  life,  with  his  lion-skin  helmet  and  with  that  peculiar  look  of 
his,  the  look  of  a  prematurely  old  young  man.  At  the  extreme 
right,  but  facing  toward  the  centre,  is  an  elderly  man,  probably 
about  fifteen  years  the  senior  of  Alexander,  but  sitting  on  his 
fiery  steed  with  an  easy  grace  which  betokens  the  expert  cavalry 
general.  He  has  a  remarkable  face,  which  would  attract  atten- 
tion and  study  in  any  portrait  gallery  in  the  world.  Who  is 
he  ?  is  the  question  on  everyone's  lips  on  looking  at  him.  Can 
it  be  Parnienio  ? 


258  Constantinople 

At  the  centre,  or  halfway  between  these  two,  is  a  third 
personage,  who,  from  his  central  position,  gilded  helmet,  and 
the  Persian  suppliant  for  mercy  kneeling  before  him,  it  is 
thought  by  some,  has  been  intended  to  represent  the  one  for 
whom  the  tomb  was  designed.  His  face  is  younger,  and  of 
less  character  than  Alexander's.  Horsemen  and  footmen, 
spearmen  and  archers  fill  up  the  space.  A  corpse  lies  in  the 
foreground  with  a  ghastly  spear-wound  in  the  side.  In  looking 
at  the  scene  one  thinks  no  longer  about  the  marble,  or  even 
about  the  skill  of  the  artist ;  he  thinks  only  of  the  scene  before 
him,  who  they  are  and  what  they  are  doing.  Persians  and 
Macedonians  somehow  become  more  real  to  him  than  they  ever 
were  before  ;  he  has  actually  seen  them  fighting.  He  has  wit- 
nessed the  Battle  of  Arbela. 

In  the  hunting  scene  upon  the  other  side  the  most  striking- 
figure  probably  is  that  of  the  noble  war  horse  into  whose  neck 
and  breast  the  furious  lion  has  fastened  his  teeth  and  claws. 
The  expression  of  pain  and  terror  shown  by  the  majestic  steed 
as  he  rears  and  plunges  with  the  hope  of  shaking  off  his  enemy 
is  pitiful  to  behold,  while  the  spear-thrust  by  the  royal  looking 
rider  into  the  heart  of  the  lion  is  a  marvel  of  dexterous  grace 
and  anatomical  precision. 

It  must  not  be  forgotten  that  this  work  is  colored.  We 
have  here  more  colored  marble  than  has  been  preserved  to  us 
in  any  other  monument  of  antiquity.  The  genuine  "  Purple  of 
Tyre"  is  here  in  all  its  various  shades,  and  the  effect  is  truly 
wonderful.  The  experiment  has  here  been  tried,  and  has  suc- 
ceeded, of  making  the  cold  marble  appear  warm  with  life. 
Everything  here  represented  is  lifelike  and  real.  The  beholder 
gazes  upon  it  in  rapt  and  silent  admiration,  and  turns  away  too 
full  of  the  subject  to  look  with  much  interest  at  anything  else. 
— Prof.  Albert  L.  Long,  D.  D.,   Vice-President  of  Robert  College. 

The  Bosphorus  and  Robert  CoIleg:e 
To  get  a  general  view  of  this  panorama,  we  clambered  to 
the  highest  point  of  the  sun  deck,  and  scarcely  dared  to  move 
during  the  sail  of  seventeen  miles  or  more  up  to  and  into  the 
Black  Sea,  every  point  of  which  right  and  left  attracted  and 
interested  our  body  of  tourists.  The  name  Bosphorus  is  old, 
like  Oxford  meaning  what  the   two  words  indicate,  a  wading 


Constantinople 


259 


place  for  cattle.  There  is  a  classical  illusion,  which  says  that 
lo  transformed  into  a  cow  swam  across  here,  thus  mviny  it  a 
right  to  the  name. 

Among-  the  attractions  lining  the  banks,  apart  from  forts 
and  castles  and  cannon  were  the  buildings  of  Robert  College, 
an  American  Institution,  but  with  few  American  students.  Our 
arrival  must  have  been  previously  announced,  for  the  windows 
of  the  main  building  were  occupied  by  patriotic  students  and 
others  armed  with  towels,  sheets,  table  cloths,  etc.,  which  kept 
waving  as  long  as  we  were  in  sight.  It  no  doubt  was  to  them  a 
sight  worth  seeing  from  their  height,  for  Hags,  handkerchiefs, 
caps  were  waving  much  more  wildly  than  the  waves  of  the 
Bosphorus.  It  was  impressive,  and  tears  came  to  my  eyes  as  I 
thought  of  these  young  men  far  away  from  their  own  good 
government  and  land  which  their  alma  mater  represents,  striv- 
ing to  secure  an  education  for  the  betterment  of  the  part  of  the 
world  wherein  they  live  and  into  which  their  influence  may 
reach.  In  some  respects,  this  is  a  location,  a  situation,  the 
most  fortunate  in  the  world  for  such  an  institution,  a  spot  that 
commands  a  great  proportion  of  the  Bosphorus,  while  the  city 
is  the  key  to  the  eastern  world.  A  city  that  in  the  hands  of  an 
aggressive  European  or  American  power  would  make  the  pos- 
sessor wealthy  and  almost  supreme  in  power. — a.j.  p.  McC. 


Members  of  the  Hjrem 


ATHENS 


GREECE 

Bibliogfraphy 

Barrows,  Samuel  J.     Isles  and  Shrines  of  Greece.     Boston.     (Vivid  style  of  an 

enthusiast;  interesting;  stimulating.) 
Freeman,  Prof.  Edw.  A.     Studies  of  Travel  in  Greece  and  Italy.     2  vols.     New 

York. 
Mahaffv.  Prof.  J.  P.     Greek  Pictures,  Drawn  with   Pen  and  Pencil.     New  York. 

(A  delightful  book.) 
MuRRAV.     Handbook  for  Travelers  in  Greece.     2  vols. 
BuNBURY,  E.   H.     History  of  Geography  Among  Greeks  and    Romans.     2  vols. 

Maps.     Illustrations.     London. 
F'reeman,  Prof.  Eow.  A.     Historical  Geography  of  Europe.     2  vols.     London. 
Co.K,  Sir   G.  W.     A   History  of   Greece.      Vols,    i    and   2.      London.      (Popular, 

attractive  style  ;  excellent  work  for  the  general  reader.) 
Grote,  George.     A  History  of  Greece  from  the  Earliest  Period  to  the  Close  of  the 

Generation  Contemporary  with  Alexander  the  Great.      12  vols.     pp.   5608. 

New  York. 
Herodotus'  works,  translated  by  Sir  G.  Rawlinson  and  Sir  J.  G.  Wilkinson.     4 

vols.     Maps  and  illustrations.     London. 
Plutarch  (first  century).     Lives  of  Greeks  and  Romans.     Written  in  pairs,  por- 
traying one  Greek  and  one  Roman,  and  then  drawing  a  comparison  between 

them.     Forty-six  lives  in  all. 
DiEHL,  Prof.  Chas.     Excursions  in  Greece  to  Recently  Explored  Sites.    Translated. 

9  plates.      41    illustrations.      London.      (A   good    popularization   of   recent 

excavations,  etc.) 
Murray,  Dr.  A.  S.     Handbook  of  Greek  Archiuology.     pp.   12-483.     134  colored 

plates.     Illustrations.     London   and   New  York.     (The  best  manual  on  the 

subject.) 
ScHUCHAHT,  Dr.  C.     Schliemann's  Excavations :  An  Archiuological  and  Historical 

Study.     Translated.     Maps.    Plates.    300  Illustrations.     New  York.     (A  most 

excellent  summary  of  Schliemann's  discoveries.) 
Murray,  A.  S.     A  History  of  Greek  Sculpture.     Illustrated.     2  vols.    New  York. 
Penrose,   F.   C.     Principles   of  Athenian   Architecture.      Plates   and   illustrations. 

Folder.     New  York. 
Perrot,  Geor(;e,  and  Chii'iez,  Chas.    History  of  Art  in  Primitive  Greece  ;  Mycenian 

Art.     2  vols.     564  illustrations.     London  and  New  York. 
Waldsteix,  C.     Essays  on  the  Art  of  Phidias.     Illustrated.     Cambridge  Press. 
Wordsworth,  C.     Greece,     Upwards  of   400  engravings,  illustrative  of  scenery, 

architecture,  costume  and  fine  arts  of  the  country.     History  of  the  characteristics 

of  Greek  art,  by  Geo.  Sharf.      New  edition,  revised,  with  notes  of  recent 

discoveries,  by  H.  F.  Tozer.     London  and  New  York. 
Pausanias.     Description  of  Greece.     Translated.     Commentary  by  J.  G.  Frazer.     6 

vols.     New  York. 
A]iiiOTT,  E\elvn.     History  of  Greece.    4  vols.     New  York. 
Cox,  George  W.     A  General  History  of  Greece.     From  the  earliest  period  to  the 

death  of  Alexander  the  Great,  with  a  sketch  of  the  subsequent  history  to  the 

present  time,     pp.710.     Colored  maps.     New  York. 
Freeman,  Prof.  Edw.  A.     History  of  Federal  Government  in  Greece  and  Italy. 

Edited  by  J.  B.  Bury.     New  York. 
FiNLAY,  Dr.  George.     History  of  the  Great  Revolution  and  Last  Twenty  Years. 

Edited  by  H.  F.  Tozer.     7  vols.     Clar.  Press. 
Smith,  R.  A.  H.  Bickford.     Greece  Under  King  George.     London.     (An  excellent 

account  of  Greece  of  to-day,  by  a  late  student  of  British  School  at  Athens.) 
Butcher,  Prof.  S.  H.     Some  Aspects  of  Greek  Genius.     London  and  New  York. 

(Interesting,  suggestive  and  stimulating  essays,  giving  a  vivid  picture  of  Greek 

life,  thought,  aspiration  and  art.) 
jEHii,  Prof.  R.  C.     Primer  of  Greek  Literature.     New  York. 
SvMONDS,  Jno.     Addington  Studies  of  the  Greek   Poets.     Third  edition.     2  vols. 

New  York. 
Gardner,  Perez.     New  Chapters   in   Greek    History.      Illustrated.      London.     A 

popular  account  of  the  history  and  results  of  recent  excavations  in  Greece  and 

Asia  Minor. 

(263) 


264  Athens 

ScHLiEMANN,  Dk.  Henry.     Ilios,  the  City  and  Country  of  the  Trojans.     Including 

an  autobiography  of  the  author.     1800  illustrations.     Maps.     New  York. 
Evans,  Lady  Maria  M.     Chapters  on  Greek  Dress.     Illustrated.     (An  interesting 

and  scholarly  contribution  to  the  more  practical  side  of  the  matter.) 
Falkener,  Edw.   Games,  Ancient  and  Modern,  and  How  to  Play  Them.    (Egyptian, 

Greek,  Roman,  etc.)     10  photographs.     Drawings  and  plates.     London. 
Mahaffy,  Prof.  J.  P.     Problems  in  Greek  History.     London  and  New  York.     (A 

stimulating  and  suggestive  popular  work.) 
Mahaffy,  Prof.  J.  P.     Social   Life  in  Greece  (from   Homer  to  Menander).     New 

York.     (Describes  the  every-day  life  of  the  Greeks  in  their  homes,  temples, 

assemblies,  etc.) 
BuLFiNCH,  Thos.     The  Age  of  Fables  ;  or.  Beauties  of  Mythology.     With  notes, 

revisions  and  additions  by  \Vm.  H.  Klapp.     pp.  448.     Philadelphia. 
Murray,  Alexander  S.  (Greek  and  Roman  Antiquities,  British  Museum).     Manual 

of  Mythology:    Greek  and  Roman,   Norse  and   Old   German,   Hindoo  and 

Egyptian  Mythology.    With  notes,  revisions  and  additions  by  Wm.  H.  Klapp. 

pp.  464.     Philadelphia. 
Hatch,  Dr.  Edwin.     The  Influence  of  Greek  Ideas  and  Usages  upon  Christianity. 

New  York.     (Sermon  on  Mount — Conduct  ?'.r.  Nicene  Creed — Belief:    "The 

change  in  centre  of  gravity  from  conduct  to  belief,  being  coincident  with  the 

transference  of  Christianity  from  Semitic  to  a  Greek  soil. 
Bulwer-Lytton   (Edward    Geo.    Earl   Lytton).     Pausanias,  the   Spartan.     (Fifth 

century  B.  C.) 
Child,  Lydia  Maria.     Philothea.    (Fifth  century  B.  C.) 
Palmer,  Helen.     Heroes  of  Ancient  Greece.     (Fourth  century  B.  C.) 
Church,  Alfred  J.     A  Young  Macedonian  in  the  Army  of  Alexander  the  Great. 

Illustrated.     (For  youth.)     New  York. 
Hamerling,  Robert.     Aspasia:  A  Romance  of  Art  and  Love  in  Ancient  Hellas. 
Church,  Alfred.     Greek  Life  and  Story.     Illustrated. 
KiNCSLEV,  Charles.     Hypatia. 

Leslie,  Emma.     Glaucia:  A  Story  of  Athens  in  the  First  Century.     Illustrated. 
Black,  William.     Briseis.     (A  love  story.    The  scene  is  laid  in  Scotland,  London 

and  Athens.) 
Edwards,  Elizabeth  M.     Fair  Athens. 


An  Historic  Sketch  of  Athens 
Substance  of  an  Address  delivered  before  the  AUerites  assembled  on  the  Acropolis 

Ladies  and  Gentlemen  : 

According  to  Thucydides,  Attica  consisted  originally  of 
twelve  scattered  towns.  To  this  period,  undoubtedly,  belong  the 
remains  of  the  prehistoric  palace  and  walls  on  the  Acropolis,  which 
correspond  closely  to  the  palace  and  walls  of  Tiryns,  and  which 
are  generally  identified  with  the  "goodly  house  of  Erechtheus," 
mentioned  by  Homer.  The  legendary  hero,  Theseus,  combined 
these  scattered  settlements  into  one  political  organism,  and  with 
him  Athenian  history  really  begins.  After  the  reign  of  a  long 
line  of  semi-mythical  kings  we  have  recorded  a  long  struggle 
between  nobles  and  commons,  which  finally  resulted  in  the 
legislation  of  Solon  and  the  establishment  of  a  sort  of  democ- 
racy based  upon  wealth.  This  took  place  in  594  B.  C.  But 
hardly  was  the  democracy  established  when   it  was  subverted 


Athens 


265 


Acropolis 


by  Peisistratus,  who  maintained  his  power  over  forty  years  and 
was  the  first  great  builder.  To  him  we  owe  not  only  the  collec- 
tion and  collaboration  of  the  Homeric  poems,  the  establishment 
of  the  great  Panathenaic  festival,  and  the  foundation  of  the 
Dionysiac  celebrations — the  origin  of  our  modern  theatre — but 
it  was  he  who  began  the  temple  of  Olympian  Zeus,  who  built 
the  first  great  public  fountain  of  Athens,  the  Enneakrounos  and 
supplied  it  with  an  aqueduct  which  can  still  be  traced  along  the 
south  side  of  the  Acropolis  and  through  the  King's  garden  ; 
and  who  completed  the  old  temple  of  Athena,  recently  discov- 
ered by  Dr.  Dorpfeld  between  the  Parthenon  and  the  Erech- 

theum.  

Peisistratus  died  in  514, 
and  was  succeeded  by  his 
sons,  Hippias  and  Hipparchus. 
Their  reign  lasted  only  four 
years,  for,  in  510,  Hipparchus 
was  killed  by  Harmodius  and 
Aristogeiton,  the  liberators  of 
Athens  and  founders  of  true 
democracy.  Hippias  was 
driven  into  exile  and  retired  to 
the  court  of  the  King  of  Persia, 
where  he  constantly  endeav- 
ored to  incite  that  monarch 
to  invade  Greece. 


ORDER  FOR  THE  DAY 

Piraeus  (Athens)  Tuesday  March  22nd. 

4,30  p.  m.  Dinner  (second  sitting  5.30) 
5.15  arrive  Piraeus.  5.30  106.30  land,  walk 
two  blocks  to  R'y-Station,  take  train  every  half 
hour  to  Athens  (5  miles).  We  supply  12  guides. 
Spend  the  evening  in  and  about  Athens  ;  return 
to  ship  any  time  before  midnight.  Those  who 
prefer  can  stay  on  board  and  rest  as  we  visit 
all  sights  in  Athens  to  morrow 

Wednesday 

7  a.  m.  Breakfast  (second  sitting  7.30) 
7.30  to  9  a.  m.  Land  and  take  train  to  Athens. 
Trains  leave  every  half  hour.  Walk  up  to  the 
Acropolis.  Lecture  at  10  a  m.  by  Prof.  Chase 
of  the  American  College,  Athens,  at  Acropolis. 

Walk  to  Mars  Hill,  Stadium,  and  have  hot 
lunch  at  Athens  12  to  3  p  m.  (name  of  Hotel 
or  Restaurant  will  be  announced  later.) 

After  lunch  visit  the  Museum,  etc. ,  and  re- 
turn to  the  ship  by  5.30  p.  m 

F.  C.  Clark. 


266 


Athens 


Then  came  the  Persian  wars,  with  the  great  battles  of 
Marathon  and  Salamis,  the  capture  and  sack  of  Athens,  and, 
finally,  the  utter  defeat  of  the  Persian  hosts  on  the  plain  of  Pla- 
t3ea  and  in  the  waters  of  the  yEgean,  near  Mycale,  in  Asia 
Minor.  These  victories  were  the  real  foundation  of  Athenian 
greatness.  They  were  the  inspiration  of  all  her  later  achieve- 
ments. With  them  begins  a  period  of  fifty  years  such  as  no 
other  city  can  boast  of,  the  period  of  y^schylus  and  Sophocles, 
of  Pheidias  and  of  Polycleitus,  of  HeroJotus  and  Thucydides. 
At  first,  it  must  be  admitted,  the  outlook  was  not  encour- 
aging. On  their  return  to  their  homes  in  479  B.  C.  the  Athe- 
nians found  a  city  in  ruins,  its  temples  burned  and  overthrown, 
its  walls  destroyed.  Themistocles  was  the  leading  spirit  of  the 
times.     It  was  under  his  influence  that  the  wall  of  Athens  was 

extended  to  the  limits 
which  it  occupied 
throughout  the  classical 
period,  extending  about 
the  city  in  a  great 
circle,  including  the 
Hill  of  the  Muses,  the 
Pnyx,  the  Hill  of  the 
Nymphs,  crossing  the 
Sacred  Way  near  the 
point  where  the  road 
to  Eleusis  now  leaves 
the  Piraeus  road,  and  so  in  a  wide  circle  through  the 
King's  garden  to  the  Ilissus  and  the  Hill  of  the  Muses  again. 
A  few  years  later  the  Piraeus  was  also  fortified  and  connected 
with  Athens  by  the  famous  "long  walls,"  one  of  which  now 
forms  the  roadbed  of  the  Piraeus  Railroad.  At  the  same  time 
that  these  great  building  operations  were  being  carried  out,  the 
power  of  Athens  was  confirmed  by  the  formation  of  the  Delian 
Confederation,  under  Aristides,  a  confederation  that  made 
Athens  the  head  of  all  the  islands  of  the  ^gean  and  brought 
her  in  the  revenues  necessary  to  her  public  undertakings. 

But  if  Themistocles  and  Aristides  made  Athens  the  most 
powerful  city  of  Greece,  it  was  their  successors,  Cimon,  son  of 
Miltiades,  and  above  all,  Pericles,  who  made  her  the  most  beau- 
tiful.    To  Cimon  we  owe  the  plan  for  a  new  temple  of  Athena 


Temple  of  Athena 


Athens  267 

to  replace  the  old  temple  of  Peisistratus,  which  had  been  only 
hastily  repaired  after  its  destruction  by  the  Persians.  For  this 
temple  Cimon  found  the  Acropolis  too  narrow  and  too  uneven  ; 
for  the  rock  of  the  Acropolis  was  not  originally  flat,  as  it  now 
appears  to  be,  but  sloped  gradually  down  from  a  point  east  of 
the  Parthenon,  its  appearance  resembling  the  roof  of  a  house 
more  than  anything  else.  For  his  new  temple  Cimon  laid  a 
deep  foundation  on  the  south  slope  of  the  rock,  using  the  old 
Pelasgic  wall,  which  had  formed  the  fortification  of  the  Acro- 
polis in  pre-Persian  times,  as  a  retaining  wall,  and  strengthen- 
ing it  by  the  great  wall  which  now  forms  the  southern  boundary 
of  the  Acropolis.  The  ground  on  all  sides  of  the  temple  was 
leveled  up  with  alternate  layers  of  stone  chips  and  earth,  and 
especially  with  hundreds  of  statues  and  votive  offerings  which 
had  been  left  in  fragments  by  the  Persians.  It  is  to  this  fortu- 
nate chance  that  we  owe  almost  the  entire  contents  of  the  Acro- 
polis Museum  ;  the  archaic  sculpture  and  terra  cottas  there 
collected  are  the  relics  of  the  Persian  invasion,  buried  for 
centuries  under  the  surface  of  the  Acropolis,  and  only  brought 
to  light  in  the  general  excavation  of  1856  and  the  succeeding 
years. 

The  plan  of  the  Parthenon,  then,  was  due  to  Cimon  ;  but 
it  was  carried  out  in  its  present  form  by  Pericles,  who,  in  one 
office  or  another,  usually  as  general  of  the  Athenians,  exercised 
a  commanding  influence  over  the  development  of  Athens  for 
over  thirty  years  (from  about  460  to  429).  Pericles  apparently 
found  the  ground  plan  of  the  temple,  as  built  by  Cimon,  too 
narrow,  for  he  widened  the  original  foundation  by  several  feet, 
at  the  same  time  moving  the  axis  of  the  building  slightly  to  the 
north.  This  widening  was  probably  due  to  the  introduction  of 
the  plan  for  the  gold  and  ivory  statue  which  was  to  stand  in 
the  central  hall.  Of  course  such  a  building  required  years 
for  its  completion.  In  fact,  it  was  probably  not  entirely  finished 
until  about  434,  although  the  formal  dedication  took  place  in 
438,  when  Athena  Parthenos  was  first  exhibited  to  the  people. 
No  expense  was  spared  to  make  the  temple  the  finest  offering 
to  a  patron  goddess  the  world  had  ever  seen.  The  entire  build- 
ing was  of  Pentelic  marble,  from  the  quarries  which  we  can  see 
even  to-day  on  the  slopes  of  Pentelicon.  Not  only  were  the 
pediments  filled  with  groups  of  figures  representing  the  birth 


265 


Ath 


ens 


of  Athena  from  the  head  of  Zeus  and  her  contest  with  Poseidon 
for  the  land  of  Attica,  but  the  metopes,  which  were  usually  left 
plain  in  Greek  temples  or  only  partly  sculptured,  were  all  filled 
with  reliefs  calculated  to  arouse  the  enthusiasm  of  the  Athen- 
ians, the  battle  of  the  Centaurs  and  Lapitha^,  the  capture  of 
Trdy,  the  contest  of  the  Athenians  and  Amazons  ;  while  around 
the  eel  la  wall  ran  the  great  frieze  of  the  Panathenaic  proces- 
sion, culminating  over  the  door  in  the  assembly  of  the  gods 
and  the  ceremonies  connected  with  the  delivery  of  the  sacred 
robe  which  was  worn  every  four  years  by 
Athenian  maidens  and  laid  on  the  knees  of 
the  old  statue  of  the  goddess. 


Theatre  of  Herod 


fBut  the  plan  of  Pericles  did  not  stop  at  one  temple.  At 
the  same  time  that  the  Parthenon  was  in  course  of  construc- 
tion, the  little  temple  of  Athena  Nike  was  built  on  the  great 
bastion  that  formed  the  western  end  of  Cimon's  wall  ;  and  on 
the  hill  of  Colonus  Agoraios,  overlooking  the  market  place, 
rose  the  Temple  of  Hephaestus,  which  we  have  come  to  know 
falsely  as  the  Theseum.  Other  temples  were  built  or  remod- 
eled in  other  parts  of  Attica,  at  Sunium  and  at  Eleusis,  the 
Acropolis  was  filled  with  a  multitude  of  statues,  dedicated  both 
by  private  individuals  and  by  the  State ;  and  finally,  in  the 
years  between  437  and  432,  was  built  the  great  Propyleea,  as  a 
fitting  entrance  to  the  most  glorious  sanctuary  of  the  Greek 
world. 

It  was  probably  during  the  period  of  Pericles'  leadership 
that  the  other  great  building  of  the  Acropolis,  the  Erechtheum, 
was  planned  and  begun,  although  it  was  not  finished  until  after 


Athens 


269 


408.  The  cause  of  this  was  the  war  between  Athens  and 
Sparta,  which,  at  first  favorable  to  the  Athenians,  ended  in  ihe 
crushing  defeat  of  /Egospotanii  in  404,  the  destruction  of  the 
long  walls,  and  the  placing  of  a  Spartan  garrison  on  the  Acro- 
polis. To  be  sure,  this  foreign  domination  was  soon  over- 
thrown. In  the  very  next  year,  Thrasybulus,  the  second  saVior 
of  Athens,  came  over  the  passes  of  Parnes  from  Thebes,  cap- 
tured the  border  post  of  Phyle,  and  drove  out  the  Spartan  gar- 
rison. The  Athenian  fleet  regained  its  power,  and  in  393,  after 
a  series  of  successful  campaigns  in  the  yKgean,  Conon  was 
able  to  return  in  triumph  to  Athens  and  to  rebuild  the  long 
walls.  But  the  power  of  Athens  was  broken.  The  victories 
of  Conon  were  won  with  the  aid  of  Pharnabazus,  a  satrap  of 
the  great  king,  and  of  Evagoras,  King  of  Cyprus,  and  his  policy 
of  relying  on  foreign  aid  now  became  the  leading  principle  of 
Athenian  politics. 


Theaire  of  Dionysos 


But  if  the  fourth  century  B.  C.  is  a  time  of  political  de- 
gradation, in  the  realms  of  the  mind  it  is  almost  more  distin- 
guished than  its  predecessor.  In  this  century  Plato  and  Aris- 
totle founded  iheir  schools — the  one  in  the  Academy,  on  the 
banks  of  the  Cephissus,  the  other  in  the  Lyceum,  on  the  slopes 
of  Lycabettus,  near  the  spot  where  the  American  school  now 
stands.  The  age  of  the  great  tragedians  was  over,  but  the 
younger  branch  of  comedy  received  its  fullest  development  in  the 
fourth  century.  In  sculpture,  although  the  age  of  Pheidias  and 
Polycleitus  is  passed,  the  fourth  century  gives  us  Scopas  and 
Praxiteles  and  Lysippus  ;  while  in  the  field  of  oratory  we  have 
only  to  recall  the  great  name  of  Demosthenes  to  be  convinced 
of  the  mental  attainments  of  the  age  of  Alexander  the  Great. 


i70  Athens 

Naturally,  such  a  period  of  weakness  in  the  State,  although 
accompanied  by  great  mental  progress,  was  not  favorable  to 
large  building  operations.  Most  of  the  public  monuments  of 
this  time  are  private  undertakings,  like  the  monument  of 
Lysicrates  and  the  monument  of  Thrasyllus,  meant  to  com- 
memorate private  victories  in  musical  and  dramatic  contests. 
Fine  grave  monuments,  also,  were  in  fashion,  as  one  sees  at  the 
Street  of  the  Tombs,  outside  the  Dipylon,  and  in  the  collection 
in  the  National  Museum.  Yet,  under  Lycurgiis,  the  Athenians 
found  means  to  build  their  first  permanent  stadion,  and  first 
gave  their  theatre  a  marble  covering. 

After  the  death  of  Alexander  in 
323,  the  politics  of  Athens  sank  to  the 
lowest  level  ;  any  support  from  out- 
side was  gladly  welcomed,  and  the 
latest  benefactor  was  the  most  popu- 
lar. It  was  the  kings  of  Pergamon, 
especially,  who  adorned  Athens  at 
this  period — Attalus  I.,  with  the 
groups  of  gods  and  giants,  Amazons 

On  K^rs  Hill  fc.  r  £>  fe  '  ^ 

Just  tuhere  the  capuin  and  parh  are,  and  Athenians,  Greeks  and  Persians, 

St.  "Paul  stood 

Gauls  and  Greeks,  of  which  so  many 
copies  exist.  Eumenes  II.  built  the  long  stoa  to  the  west  of  the 
theatre,  and  Attains  II.  adorned  the  market  with  another  even 
larger  stoa. 

With  the  capture  of  Corinth  by  the  Romans  in  146,  the 
whole  of  Greece  fell  under  the  sway  of  Rome,  and  a  new,  and, 
on  the  whole,  happier  era  began  for  Athens  ;  for  the  Romans 
loved  and  respected  her  as  the  home  of  their  own  higher  cul- 
ture, and  their  rule  was  never  so  severe  in  Greece  as  in  most 
of  the  provinces.  To  this  period  we  owe  many  of  the  extant 
buildings — the  Temple  of  Roma  and  Augustus,  east  of  the 
Parthenon,  the  Tower  of  the  Winds,  built  by  Andronicus  of 
Cyrrhus,  the  gate  of  the  oil  market  near  it,  built  by  Augustus, 
and  the  pedestal  of  Agrippa,  erected  by  the  Athenians  them- 
selves. The  last  additions  to  her  glories  Athens  received  under 
the  Emperor  Hadrian,  who  finally  completed  the  Temple  of 
Zeus,  almost  seven  hundred  years  after  its  inception  under 
Peisistratus,  and  built  his  gate  to  divide  the  new  quarter  he  had 
established   from   old  Athens.     The  great  gymnasium  in  the 


Athens  271 


SNlars  Hill 


market  is  another  of  the  buildhigs  of  Hadrian,  while  his  con- 
temporary, H erodes  Atticus,  who  owned  all  the  country  about 
Marathon  and  Pentelicon,  covered  the  stadion  with  marble,  as 
his  modern  successor,  Mr.  Averofif,  has  so  lately  proposed  to 
do,  and  built  the  theatre  which  bears  his  name,  in  honor  of  his 
wife  Regilla. 

Thus  we  have  the  completed  picture  of  Athens  as  she  stood 
in  the  days  of  her  greatest  splendor — the  second  century  A.  D. 
— the  Acropolis  crowded  with  statues  and  offerings  and  crowned 
by  the  Parthenon,  her  gods  the  apparent  rulers  of  the  civilized 
world,  her  streets  crowded  with  the  youth  of  every  land,  who 
gathered  about  her  philosophers  and  scholars.  And  yet  this 
was  only  the  last  flare  of  the  fire  before  its  extinction.  Only  a 
little  more  than  a  century  after  the  death  of  Hadrian,  the  Goths 
appeared  before  Athens  and  were  with  difficulty  repulsed  ;  and 
in  395  the  Ostrogoths,  under  Alaric,  captured  the  city. 

Another  influence,  too,  was  at  work  to  destroy  the  prestige 
of  Athens.  About  the  middle  of  the  first  century,  in  58  A.  D.,  a 
Jew  had  appeared  in  Athens  and  proclaimed  an  "  unknown  god," 
and  then  he  had  gone  away  and  no  one  had  thought  any  more 
about  him.  Yet  the  seed  he  sowed  had  been  working,  and  in 
325  the  Emperor  of  Rome  declared  himself  a  convert  to  the  new 
faith  of  Christianity.  In  spite  of  all  this,  the  philosophers  con- 
tinued their  teachings  in  Athens,  and  it  was  not  until  529  that 
the  Emperor  Justinian  formally  closed  the  philosophic  schools. 
The  Parthenon  was  converted  into  a  Christian  church,  at  first  of 
the  Sacred  Wisdom,  then  of  the  Holy  Virgin. 


272 


Athens 


In  fact,  the  whole  later  history  of  Athens  is  summed  up  in 
the  history  of  the  Parthenon.  In  i  204,  after  the  capture  of  Con- 
stantinople by  the  Venetians  in  the  fourth  crusade,  Athens 
became  subject  to  Prankish  dukes,  and  the  Parthenon  church 
was  transferred  from  the  Eastern  to  the  Western  church.  In 
1456  Athens  was  captured  by  the  Turks,  and  a  few  years  later 
the  Parthenon  was  changed  into  a  Mohammedan  mosque. 
Finally,  in  1687,  a  Venetian  army  under  Morosini,  in  an  attempt 
to  capture  Athens,  dropped  a  bomb  through  the  roof  of  a  build- 
ing upon  a  lot  of  powder  which  the  Turks  had  stored  inside,  and, 
after  a  life  of  over  2000  years,  the  pride  and  glory  of  the  age  of 


The  King's  PdUce 


Pericles  were  shattered  into  a  thousand  pieces.  The  siege  was 
successful.  The  Turks  evacuated  the  Acropolis,  but  Morosini 
was  unable  to  hold  his  conquest,  and  in  a  few  months  Greece 
groaned  again  under  the  Turkish  yoke — a  yoke  that  was  not 
lifted  until  the  war  of  1821  and  the  establishment  of  the  Greek 
Kingdom. 

The  subsequent  events  of  the  history  of  Greece  are  well 
known.  In  1832  Otho  of  Bavaria  became  the  first  King  of 
Greece,  to  be  driven  out  after  a  reign  of  thirty  years,  in  1862. 
In  the  next  year  William  of  .Sonderburg— Gliicksburg  was 
elected  king,  and  as  George  I.  he  has  reigned  ever  since.  The 
events  of  last  spring  are  too  recent  to  need  repetition — the 
utter  weakness  and  absolute  worthlessness  of  the  government 
were  only  too  plainly  shown.  But  the  weakness  and  worthless- 
ness of  the  Greek  people  were  not  shown  and  cannot  be  shown. 


Athens 


273 


They  are  like  all  southern  peoples,  quick,  impulsive,  and 
utterly  unpractical.  What  they  need  is  a  strong  and  honest 
government — a  government  that  will  lay  the  greatest  stress  on 
internal  improvement  and  education  along  practical  lines  ;  that 
will  try,  in  fact,  to  rule  the  country  according  to  nineteenth 
century  ideas,  and  will  not  rely  on  a  reputation  made  over  2000 
years  ago. — Prof.  Geo.  A.  Chase  of  the  American  College  at 
Athens. 


Athens — More  Familiarly 

"  In  Athens  we  saw  good  strong  faces  and  forms.  No 
fezzes,  no  veiled  women,  no  men  in  petticoats.  The  appear- 
ance of  the  streets  and  of  the  inhabitants  was  European.  The 
signs  of  the  shops  were  Greek  and  interesting.  As  in  all  the 
cities  we  have  visited,  soldiers  were  much  in  evidence.  Here 
and  there  we  would  find  one  dressed  in  the  inconvenient  and 
costly  "fustenella"  which  requires  forty 
yards  of  cotton  cloth  starched  stiff  and 
gathered  at  the  waist  and  having  the  appear- 
ance (when  clean)  of  an  immense  immaculate 
umbrella.  Very  few  asked  for  backsheesh, 
but  drivers  and  others  needed  watching  when 
giving  change  and  making  agreements. 

I  found  a  man  of  Pira;us  who  said  he 

was   one  of  about  three  Englishmen  in  the 

,      ,  place.     There  were  several  men  who  could 

I '"Njjk  speak  some  English  "  knocking  around,"  as 

[  I  he  said,  and  these  acted  as  guides.      Ours 

was  Dimitri,  who  gave  me  his  card,  and  said 

he  had    been  in    the    war    with   the    Turks. 

They  said  the  Turks  lost  about  30,000  men, 

and  the  Greeks  6000,  and  that  the  Turks  were  not  taking  any 

of  their  territory. 

There  is  a  fine  road  from  Athens  to  Piraeus,  and  I  longed 
for  a  bicycle.  We  reached  the  ship,  and  as  the  ship  left  the 
harbor,  taking  the  highest  point  on  the  upper  deck,  I  watched 
the  fading  views  of  historic  Athens  ;  the  Parthenon  and  the 
Acropolis,  backed  by  lofty  Lycabettus  were  far  in  the  distance  ; 
the  Piraeus  and  the  Bay  of  Salamis  notable  for  the  naval  battle. 


Greek  Soldier 


274 


Athens 


I  suppose  I  saw  the  slope  where  Xerxes  sat  and  saw  defeat  for 
the  Persians.  Far  away  the  bUie  outline  of  Hymettus,  Pente- 
licus,  and  Parnes  were  just  visible  as  "darkness  brooded  over 
the  deep  "  and  I  descended.'' — Parke. 


A  Funeral  in  Athens 


ROME 


ROME 


Bibliog^raphy 

Laxciani,  Prof.  K.     Ancient  Rome  in  the  Light  of  Recent  Discoveries.     36  plates. 

80  illustrations.     (.Macmillan.) 
Dknnu:,  John.     Rome  of  To-day  and  Yesterday.     The  Pagan  City.     Third  edition. 

Maps.     Plates.     Illustrations  from  Roman  photographs.     New  York.     Latest 

and  best. 
Hare,  A.  J.  C.     Walks  in  Rome.     Maps.     2  vols.     London. 
Hare,  A.  J.  C.     Days  Near  Rome.     2  vols. 
Hare,  A.  J.  C.     Cities  of  Central  Italy.     Illustrated.     London. 
Symonda,  J.  A.     Life  and  Times  of  Michael  Angelo.     Illustrated.     2  vols.     New 

York. 
Crawford,  Francis  Marion.     Ave  Roma  Immortalis  :  Studied  from  the  Chronicles 

of  Rome.     2  vols.     Vol   I,  pp.  X,  332,   50  illustrations  in  text  and   15  photo- 
graphs.    Vol.   II,  pp.  IX,  344,  44  illustrations  in   text   and    14  photographs. 

Map.     Index.     (Macmillan.) 
Literary  Landmirks  of  Rome.     (Lawrence  Hutton)  Harper's. 
Gi I.MAN,  Arthur.     Rome.     Illustrated.     (Siory  of  the  Nations  Ser.)     New  York. 

(Putnam.) 
Mommsen,   Dr.  Theo.      History  of  the  Roman   Republic.     Abridged.     C.  Brynes 

and  V .  J.  R.  Hendy.     London. 
Merrvale,  Dr.  C.     A  History  of  the  Romans  under  the  Empire.     8  vols.     B.  C. 

60,  A.  D.  180.     (Exactly  fills  up  the  gap  between  Mommsen  and  Gibbon.) 
Pastor,  Prof.  Ludw.  (R.  C.)     History  of  the  Popes  from  the  Close  of  the  Middle 

Ages.     Translated  by  Fred.  J.  Antrobus  (R.  C).     (Cath.  Stand.  Lib.)    London. 

(Hodges.)     1893. 
Ramsay,  Prof.  W.  M.     The  Church  in  the  Roman  Empire  Before  A.  D.  170.     Map. 

Illustrated.  London,  1893.  (An  important  authority.) 
Gibbon,  Edward.  Decline  and  Fall  of  the  Roman  Empire. 
Massi,  Cav.  H.  T.     Description  of  the  Galleries  of  Paintings  in  the  Papal  Palace  of 

the  Vatican.     Containing  the  historical  account  of  the  Vatican  Palace,  etc. 

Rome,  1897. 
Antinous:  A  Romance  of  Ancient  Rome.     (Translated)  Adolf  Hausrath.     (Pseud., 

George  Taylor.) 
lola,  the  Senator's  Daughter  :  A  Story  of  Ancient  Rome.     Mansfield.     L.  Hillhouse. 
Numa  Pompilius  (Eighth  Century  B.  C).     Jean  Pierre  Claris  de  Florian. 
Neaera  :  A  Tale  of  Ancient  Rome.     John  W.  Graham. 
Burning  of  Rome  ;  or,  Story  of  the  Days  of  Nero.     Alfred  John  Cliurch. 
Gladiatores:  A  Tale  of  Rome  and  Judea.     Geo.  John  Whyte  Meville. 
Darkness  and  Dawn  ;  or,  Scenes  in  the  Days  of  Nero.     Frederick  \Vm.  Farrar. 
Greek  Maid  at  the  Court  of  Nero.     (Translated)  Franz  Hoffman. 
Onesimus  :   Memories  of  a  Disciple  of  St.  Paul.     Edwin  A.  Abbott. 
Quo  Vadis:  A  Romance  of  the  Time  of  Nero.     Henryk  Sienkiewicz. 
Valerius  :  A  Roman  Story.     John  Gibson  Lockhart. 
Aurelian  ;  or,  Rome  in  the  Third  Century.     William  Ware. 
Antonina  ;  or.  Fall  of  Rome.     Wilkie  Collins. 
Rienzi:  The  Last  of  the  Roman  Tribunes.     Bulwer-Lytton. 
Agnes  of  Sorrento.     Harriet  Beecher  Stowe. 
Romola.     George  Eliot. 

Beatrice  Cenci.     Francesco  Dominico  Guerrazzi. 
Rome.     (Translated)  Emile  Zola. 


(277) 


278 


Rome 


" Pantheon— ne  Parliament  Temple  of  all  the  Gods" 


The  Pantheon 

The  Pantheon,  with  its  splendid  dome,  the  admiration  of 
the  world,  Michael  Angelo's  model  of  St.  Peter,  Raphael's 
most  beloved  building,  for  one  thing  we  now  know,  is  not 
the  Pantheon  of  Agrippa,  as  stated  in  the  inscription,  which  has 
remained  on  the  pediment  of  the  portico  for  over  nineteen 
centuries. 

It  was  not  "  Marcus  Agrippa,"  the  son  of  Lucius,  who, 
"in  his  third  consulship,"  that  is,  twenty-seven  years  B.  C, 
built  this  massive  pile,  but  the  Emperor  Hadrian.  Architec- 
turally, most  readers  know,  the  building  has  been  a  problem. 
Why  a  circular  building  with  a  dome  should  have  a  square 
portico  with  smooth  columns  violating  the  pure  conception  of 
the  Romans  in  the  Augustinian  age,  that  is,  having  Corinthian 
capitals  of  marble  on  unfluted  shafts  of  Egyptian  granite  ; 
why  in  the  account  of  the  building  in  the  times  of  the  early 
writers,  that  is,  in  the  time  of  Agrippa  and  later,  no  mention  of 
a  dome  should  have  been  made  or  of  a  building  of  a  circular 
character,  and  yet  that  this  inscription  should  indicate  an  age 
when  great  domes  and  vaulted  roofs  were  absolutely  unknown  ; 
these  have  been  the  puzzling  problems.  The  solution  of  the  dif- 
ficulty can  be  indicated  in  a  word.  In  1892,  M.  Chedanna,  a 
student  of  the  French  Academy,  in  the  department  of  architec- 
ture, selected  the  Pantheon  as  his  special  object  of  study  and 


Rome 


279 


made  careful  measurements  and  examination.  At  the  base  of 
the  dome,  nearly  opposite  the  door  he  discovered  a  leak  and 
asked  the  authorities  to  repair  it.  In  making  the  repairs,  the 
first  which  had  been  made  for  a  hundred  years  or  more,  they 
found  bricks  bearing  the  well-known  stamp  of  the  reign  of  the 
Emperor   Hadrian,  about  a   century  and  a  half  later  than  the 

time  of  Agrippa. 
M.  Chedanne  se- 
cured permis- 
sion to  remove 
the  stucco  in  var- 
ious parts  of  the 
building  and 


everywhere 
"^*-i--  the  same  testi- 
mony was  revealed, 
and  so  the  injustice 
of  centuries  was  set 
right.  It  is  the 
Emperor  Hadrian's 
Pantheon  added  to 
"''■' '  the  old    porch    of    a 

Tiber,  Forum,  SI.  Peter's  Dome,  Caslte  of  SI.  Angelas,  Colosseum  fomiCr  temole         of 

Agrippa  destroyed  by  fire. 

The  Pantheon,  as  its  name  indicates,  was  erected  in  honor 
of  all  the  gods  of  pagan  Rome.  It  is  now  a  Roman  Catholic 
Church,  "  St.  Mary  of  the  Rotunda,"  and  under  the  great  altar 
there  are  said  to  lie  twenty-eight  wagon-loads  of  bones  of  saints 
taken  from  the  catacombs.  Here  also  was  buried  the  great 
and  incomparable  Raphael  and  many  other  famous  artists  to- 
gether with  the  King,  Victor  Emmanuel  II,  of  Italy. 


280 


tome 


Says  John  Denny,  in  his  fascinating  book  "  Rome  of  To- 
day and  Yesterday,"  "The  old  romantic  charm  of  the  Pan- 
theon is  still  there.  Whether  on  a  bright  day  under  a  favoring 
sky  one  sees  its  interior  all  flooded  with  light,  the  perfect  blue 
of  heaven  visible  through  the  great  aperture  of  the  roof  the 
magnificent  marble  pavement  and  all  the  polished  columns  in 
their  beautiful  succession  and  the  imposing  curve  of  the  dome 
perfectly  revealed,  or  whether  by  rare  good  luck,  entering  it  by 
night,  there  are  no  details  only  the  majesty  of  the  grand  out- 
line of  the  stars  across  the  open  space  above  or  in  the  impos- 
ing dignity  of  its  immense  mass  seen  from  without,  simple  and 
most  solemn  of  all  buildings  of  the  world  ;  it  is  the  grand  type 
of  that  magnificent  empire,  which  stands  foremost  also  in  all 
the  world." 

The  Allerites  will  always  remember  the  Pantheon  in  con- 
nection with  that  curious  and  almost  phenomenal  storm  of  hail, 
which  kept  us  in  front  of  the  building  for  many  minutes  confined 


m  our  carriages. 


"  While  siands  the  Colosseum^  Rome  shall  stand ; 
When  falls  the  Colosseum,  Rome  shall  fall ; 
When  Rome  falls— the  "world." 


The  Colosseum 
The  Colosseum,  with  its  stupendous  dimensions,  offers 
many  points  of  interest  and  study.  The  thought  of  it,  the 
pictures  of  it  have  haunted  the  imaginations  of  readers  and 
students  and  travelers  for  centuries.  No  one  can  tell  in 
advance  what  it  is  to  see  that  great  curve  of  masonry,  a  third 
of  a  mile  long  in  its  completeness,  standing  up  in  the  air,  at  its 


Rome  28 1 

highest    point,   still    to-day    1 50    feet.      As    we    all    know    this 
immense    amphitheatre    was    constructed    simply   as    a    place 
wherein  the  wholesale  destruction   of  human   and  animal   life 
should  take  place  for  the  amusement  of  the  spectators.     To 
witness  these  scenes  of  murder  and  butchery,  repeated   from 
hour  to  hour,  all  day  long,  daily,  for  months  together,  eighty 
thousand  spectators,  from  the  highest  to  the  lowest  class,  were 
bidden,  and  these  gladiatorial  shows  lasted  for  three  hundred 
years  ;  lasted  fifty  years  after  the  Christian  religion  had  been 
officially  established    at   Rome.     Says  Denny,   "  Nothing  that 
was  ever  built  is  such  a  monument  of  tyranny  on  the  one  side 
and  subservience  on  the  other.     For  the  fatal  service  of  the 
amphitheatre   there  were  always  held  ready  in  Rome  at  least 
ten    thousand    men,    furnished    with   weapons    and    extremely 
skilled   in   the   use    of  them  ;  athletic,    well   fed,  well    lodged. 
Many  of  them  had  been  once  soldiers  themselves,  and  in  other 
days  had  met  the  Roman  legions  on  battlefields  and  sometimes 
even    defeated   them.     Now  prisoners,    they    were    absolutely 
certain  of  death.     Strange  effect  of  fear,  frightful  abjectness  of 
man  !     They  did  not  forgive  ;  they  were  not  resigned,  but  they 
made  no  defence.     More  than   that,  they  yielded  to  the  cere- 
monial  of  the  arena,  acquitting  themselves  of  death   as   of  a 
duty.     They  made  the  circuit  of  the  amphitheatre  ;  they  uttered 
the  famous  Ave.     And  then  they  let  themselves  be  slaughtered. 
It  is  hard  to-day  to  recall  the  facts  as  we  look  upon  this 
old  monument  of  a  more  cruel  civilization,  but  we  can  conceive 
of  the  Colosseum,  as  it  once  was,  in  its  entire  circuit,  with  its 
ring  of  tall  masts  rising  high  above  its  topmost  wall  and  carry- 
ing gay-colored  awnings  over  the   ranks  of  seats  ;  with  statues 
in   the  arches  of  the  second  and  third  stories,  a  hundred  and 
sixty  of  them,  with  the  central  arena  strewn  with  sand  or  ver- 
milion ;  with  the  marble  seats  and  chairs,  rank  upon   rank,  to 
the    topmost    height,    and   perhaps    an   upper    story   of  wood 
burned  away  at  some  later  time.     It  is  thought  that  there  were 
fifty  tiers  of  seats  in  the  three  ranks,  sloping  from  a  great  height 
down  to  the  arena,  and   this   gave  space  for   the   magnificent 
feature  of  the  building,  the  stately  ring  of  corridors  double  on 
the  ground  floor  and  on  the  first  story  above  it  and  single  on 
the  second  story,  which  made  an  unbroken  circuit  within  the 
great  outer  wall.     Much  of  the  space  under  the  arena  is  laid 


282 


Rome 


bare  to-day,  and  shows  great  stone  dens  for  the  wild  beasts, 
with  indications  of  Hfts  and  of  trap  doors,  by  which,  perhaps,  a 
hundred  wild  beasts  were  let  loose  at  once  upon  the  arena. 
There  may  also  be  seen  great  drains  and  water  channels  and 
sewer  arrangements  runninof  round  the  oval  and  under  the 
walls,  and  in  front  of  the  dens  water  channels,  through  which  a 
little  stream  even  to-day  makes  its  way,  as  if  still  some  thirsty 
beast  might  lean  over  to  drink  of  it." 


Interior  of  the  Colosseum 

The  story  of  the  Colosseum  everybody  knows  :  its  long  use 
as  an  amphitheatre,  continuing  fifty  years  after  Rome  had  offi- 
cially adopted  the  Christian  religion  ;  then  a  silence  of  centuries  ; 
presently  its  occupation  as  a  fortress  by  one  great  Roman 
family  and  another.  In  131 2  its  temporary  use  as  an  arena 
for  bull-fights ;  then  the  beginning  of  its  destruction  for 
building  material  in  1362,  when  the  legate  of  the  Pope  offered 
its  stone  for  sale,  and  the  marble  was  plundered  by  any  one 
who  wished  to  use  it  for  lime  ;  then  its  continuous  devastation  for 
two  centuries,  until  three  great  palaces,  the  Farnese,  the  Bar- 
berini  and  the  Cancellaria,  and  two  or  three  churches  and  a  quay 
on  the  river  had  been  built  with  it ;  then  papal  attempts  to  utilize 


Rome  283 

the  great  ruin  for  industrial  purposes,  the  fitting  up  in  it  of  a 
woolen  factory  and  various  shops,  and,  lastly,  its  consecration 
to  the  memory  of  the  Christian  martyrs  who  perished  in  it,  and 
at  the  present  day  its  careful  preservation  as  one  of  the  grandest 
ruins  of  ancient  Rome. 

No  other  structure  stands  out  so  magnificently  as  this  wild 
ruin.  Where  it  has  suffered  change  it  seems  to  have  been  to 
an  advantage,  because  it  has  open  vistas  through  the  triple  arch- 
ways and  between  the  radiating  walls  which  show  the  radiant 
blue  of  the  sky  and  the  Roman  landscape  beyond.  Doubtless 
the  Romans  preferred  it  as  they  had  it,  and  it  gave  them  a 
thrill  of  delight  to  hear  the  sounds  which  issued  from  the  great 
buildings  as  they  trooped  across  the  hills  by  thousands  in  the 
early  morning  for  their  day's  pleasure  (not  only  the  citizens  in 
their  fine  white  togas,  but  also  "  the  dark  clad  ones  "  on  the  way 
to  their  high  gallery)  to  hear  the  heavy  roar,  the  sharp  cry,  the 
prolonged  howl  from  the  dens  beneath  the  arena,  where  the  ani- 
mals for  the  day  were  kept  ready  presently  to  spring  through 
the  trap  doors.  But  to-day  there  is  not  a  place  in  the  world 
more  peaceful  and  more  still  than  the  huge  amphitheatre. 

Far  too  many  visitors  only  look  up  at  the  Colosseum  and  go 
their  way,  the  eye  is  fatigued  by  the  confused  ruinous  vaultings, 
the  rows  of  seats,  the  wreckage  of  broken  columns  and  arches  ; 
but  from  a  higher  point  looking  down  there  is  harmony,  the 
noble  plan  of  the  building  is  seen,  the  broad,  fine  corridors, 
the  clear  oval  ring  concentric  with  the  walls,  the  regular  arch- 
ways, even  the  curious  substructures  of  the  arena  all  look  well 
from  above. 

The   Appian  Way 

One  of  the  famous  drives  every  visitor  feels  compelled  to 
take  is  that  along  the  Appian  Way,  at  least  for  a  certain  dis- 
tance outside  the  walls  of  Rome.  This  great  road  originally 
one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  in  length,  extending  from  Rome 
to  Capua,  is  fifteen  feet  wide  and  is  laid  with  diamond  shaped 
lava  blocks  over  which  the  Roman  chariot  wheels  rolled  and  the 
Roman  legions  marched  while  as  yet  all  Europe  beyond  the 
Alps  was  but  a  wilderness. 

For  ten  centuries  or  more  this  old  "  queen  of  roads"  had 
lain   buried  and  overgrown   by  vegetation  until   in    1850  Pope 


284 


Rome 


Pius  IX  disinterred  it  for  twelve  miles  at  an  expense  of  fifteen 
thousand  dollars.  The  accuracy  with  which  the  irregular  blocks 
of  lava  are  fitted  to  each  other  is  marvelous  and  tells  the  story 
of  the  stupendous  labor  and  faultless  skill  which  the  Romans 
of  the  best  epoch  lavished  upon  their  public  works.  Modern 
roadmakers  might  well  take  pattern  of  that  ancient  process,  for, 
says  Vitruvius,  writing  in  the  time  of  Augustus,  "  Parallel 
trenches  were  excavated,"  marking  the  width  of  the  road  and 
then  between  them  the  loose  earth  was  thrown  up  until  solid 
ground  was  reached  and  upon  this  were  laid  four  distinct  strata  : 
one  of  stones,  "  as  large  as  a  man  could  take  in  his  hand  ;  " 
next,  a  rubble  of  small,  rough  stones,  mixed  with  lime  and 
rammed  down  very  hard  with  wooden   beetles,  to  make  a  layer 


Appian  Aqueduct 

nine  inches  deep  ;  upon  this,  a  rubble  made  of  broken  bricks  and 
fragments  of  pottery  for  a  depth  of  six  inches  ;  lastly,  the  great 
paving-stones,  carefully  fitted,  so  that  the  surface  should  be 
level  as  a  floor.  The  nature  of  the  ground  in  some  regions 
modified  the  method  of  procedure  ;  on  rocky  soil  the  lower 
stratum  of  rough  stones  could  be  omitted  ;  in  passing  through 
marshy  ground  there  was  an  elaborate  system  of  pile  driving. 
Crossing  a  valley,  the  road  would  be  carried  on  a  huge  viaduct, 
like  an  aqueduct,  either  of  solid  masonry  or  built  in  arches. 
To  keep  the  road  as  nearly  straight  as  possible  there  was  no 
hesitation  in  attacking  the  solid  rock,  in  cutting  fifty  feet  deep 
or  more,  and  even  tunnels  in   some  cases  were  hewn    out. 


The  Forum 

The  word  h'orum  meant  a  market  place.  In  the  settling 
of  ancient  Rome  the  people  living  on  the  surrounding  hills 
used  to  meet  on  the  level  ground  between  the   hills  to  buy  and 


Rome 


285 


sell  and  bargain  and  consult  on  matters  of  common  interest, 
and  thus  they  began  to  call  the  place  the  Forum.  By  and  by 
all  that  concerned  the  town  began  always  to  take  place  in  the 
Forum.  The  sacrifices  in  the  temples,  the  business  of  every 
kind  in  the  courts,  the  arrival  of  foreign  envoys  or  couriers 
bringing  news  of  the  war  ;  some  exciting  harangue  from  the 
rostra,  some  hot  war  blazing  up  between  two  public  men  in 
which  the  listeners  at  once  took  sides,  some  sudden  tumult  or 
wave  of  public  excitement  or  popular  frenzy  of  some  kind, 
sweeping  the  people  with  it  and  producing  as  in  the  case  of 
Ciesar,  Cassius  and  Mark  Antony  the  most  unexpected  and 
often  dramatic  action. 


The  Forum 


Here  were  celebrated  victories  with  trains  of  captives  ; 
here  were  stately  ceremonials  ;  here  were  funeral  processions 
and  here  were  always  idle  crowds  eager  for  amusement. 
By  and  by  there  came  to  be  erected  here  rude  shrines  and 
altars  and  temples.  Later  there  came  to  be  great  crowds  of 
statues  erected  as  marks  of  public  honor,  sometimes  by  the 
State,  sometimes  by  individuals  themselves,  eager  for  immor- 
tality. These  at  times  were  cleared  away  by  the  decree  of  the 
Senate,  as  it  was  always  found  essential  to  keep  a  central  space, 
so  that  men  might  have  room  to  meet  each  other  freely  and  to 
loiter  and  talk  as  they  pleased. 

The  space  of  ground  occupied  for  all  this,  neither  the 
great  builders  nor  the  great  destroyers  could  really  change.     It 


286 


Rome 


lay  conveniently  low  in  the  valley  between  the  Capitoline  and  the 
Palantine  Hill,  an  irregular  parallelogram  not  quite  an  eighth 
of  a  mile  in  length,  but  varying  in  width  from  a  hundred  to  two 
hundred  feet. 

There  is  only  one  ruin  of  the  earliest  forum  left,  its  mas- 
sive walls  having  successfully  defied  time,  the  barbarians  and 
the  builders  of  the  sixteenth  century.  This  is  the  old  record 
office  of  the  republic,  the  Tabularium  which  is  dated  seventy- 
eight  years  before  Christ  by  means  of  an  inscription  found  in 
its  interior. 


Hadrian 's  bridge  and  iomb  built  1800  years  ago 
Ncnu  castle  and  bridge  of  St,  Angela 


"The    importance    of    the    Forum 


began  with  the  Republic  and  continued  all  through  the  history 
of  Rome  making  that  little  space  of  ground  the  most  memorable 
political  centre  of  the  entire  world.  Its  historic  interest  is 
entirely  independent  of  the  buildings.  It  matters  not  that  of  all 
the  constructions  of  those  grand  historic  times  scarcely  a  trace 
is  left ;  that  the  Senate  house  and  the  Rostra,  the  (juaint  archaic 
statues,  the  famous  ruminal  fig  tree,  the  old  shops  and  the  new, 
that  even  the  temples  of  the  time  of  Camillus  and  Fabius  and 
Metellus  and  of  the  Gracchi  and  the  Scipios  have  disappeared, 
and  that  only  ruinous  heaps  are  left  of  the  Forum  of  Cicero  and 
Caesar  and  that  a  few  tall  columns  of  a  massive  arch,  still  stand- 
ing, belonging  to  a  later  age  and  a  degenerate  period,  remain. 

The  Forum  itself  belongs  to  the  Republic,  and  the  imagina- 
tion disregards  all  visible  traces  of  the  empire  and  peoples  the 
space  with  the  grand  historic  figures  of  a  time  when  Rome, 
having  little  architectural  splendor  to  boast  of,  might  have  said 
with  Cornelius,  "These  are  my  jewels." 


Rome 


287 


To  the  ruins  of  the  great  Rostra  of  Ctesar  a  very  tragic 
interest  clings,  for  this  was  the  last  finished  work  of  the  great 
Cresar  in  Rome  and  dates  from  44,  the  year  of  his  death. 
Here  it  is  believed  Anthony  stood  to  appeal   to  the  Roman 


SI.  Peter's 


people   for  vengeance  on   Ceesar's  murderers,   while  the  dead 
Csesar  lay  at  his  feet. 

"At  first  sight,"  says  Denny,  "it  seems  impossible  to  tell 
what  all  this  debris  represents,  but  on  a  closer  examination  of 
the  wreck  the  confusion  is  dispelled  and  the  white  Rostra  reap- 
pears to  the  imagination  the  most  regal  platform  for  an  orator 


288 


Rome 


that  the  world  ever  saw,  80  feet  lonor  and  1 1  feet  in  height, 
with  its  massive  projecting  cornice  carved  in  the  pure  Greek 
taste  of  the  time.  Below  it  in  doulDle  rows  the  famous  old 
bronze  peaks  of  the  ships,  above  it  a  low  open  balustrade  pro- 
tecting the  sides  and  part  of  the  front  and  interrupted  in  the 
centre  for  a  space,  so  that  the  figure  of  the  orator  could  be  seen 
from  head  to  foot.  Finally,  behind  him  who  spoke,  the  grand 
silent  figures  in  bronze  and  marble,  the  statesmen  and  heroes 


Interior  of  St.  Peter's 


of  an  earlier  day.  Overhead  was  the  blue  Roman  sky,  the  back- 
ground was  all  temples,  and  around  and  beneath  all,  way 
across  the  Forum  was  the  eager,  listening,  responsive  crowd. 
Surely,  whatever  fire  of  eloquence  a  man  had  within  him  must 
have  blazed  high  when  he  stood  the  central  figure  of  such  a 
scene." 

It  is  said  that  in  Julius  Caesar's  time  the  valley  of  the 
Forum  began  to  be  much  overcrowded  and  that  the  space 
available  for  public  business  had  been  much  contracted.  Caesar, 
therefore,  gave  an  agent,  who  was  none  other  than  the  great 
Cicero,  a  hundred  million  sesterces,  about  five  million  dollars, 


Rome  289 

to  buy  up  these  buildings,  so  tliat  when  he  came  home  he  could 
pull  down  the  old  rookeries.  In  three  years  he  built  the  new 
Forum  and  the  splendid  Temple  of  Venus,  and  placed  his  own 
statue  on  his  own  favorite  charger  in  gilt  bronze,  like  that  of 
Marcus  Aurelius  on  the  Capitoline  hill. 

To  trace  the  changes  in  the  Forum  through  its  early  his- 
tory, through  the  republic  and  the  empire  would  be  a  difficult 
task,  but  those  who  have  made  the  matter  a  study  can,  on  the 
spot,  point  out  the  ruins  of  the  various  builders,  for  each  exten- 
sion was  named  after  its  builder  and  planner.  For  instance  we 
have  the  P'orum  of  Augustus  forty  years  in  building,  the  Forum 
of  Caesar,  the  Forum  of  Nero,  although  its  actual  builder  was 
the  Emperor  Domitian,  the  F"orum  of  Trajan  with  its  columns 
still  remaining,  and  the  arch  and  h'orum  of  Vespasian  con- 
taining the  temple  of  peace  and  the  so-called  Forum  Boarium 
or  the  Cattle  Market,  the  place  where  the  barbarians,  after 
they  had  conquered  Rome  and  broken  down  and  destroyed  the 
statuary  and  the  noble  surroundings,  actually  quartered  their 
cattle  and  horses  and  fed  them,  and  covered  with  debris  the 
historic  statuary  and  architecture.  Some  famous  pieces  of 
statuary  have  been  unearthed  and  placed  in  the  Vatican  gallery 
and  in  the  Capitoline  Museum.  It  is  ten  thousand  pities  that 
for  centuries  many  of  the  precious  fragments  of  marble  were 
burned  in  lime  kilns. 

The  Vatican 

That  great  mass  of  buildings  on  the  low  hill  on  the  west 
banks  of  the  Tiber  called  the  \'atican  takes  its  name  from 
Vates,  a  soothsayer,  and  refers  to  a  time  when  the  ancient  peo- 
ples of  Rome  made  St.  Peter's  hill  a  kind  of  sacred  spot  a 
thousand  years  and  more  before  St.  Peter  was  born.  Here 
were  Agrippa's  gardens  and  here  Nero  began  the  earliest 
Christian  martyrdom,  because  the  oppressed  and  the  afflicted 
community  of  believers  had  erected  here  a  little  chapel  from 
which  grew  in  the  long  development  of  ages  the  noble  and 
imposing  Basilica,  St.  Peter's,  the  grandest  of  modern  church 
buildings  in  the  world.  To  give  a  history  of  the  Vatican  and 
an  account  of  its  various  buildings  and  art  treasures  would  be 
to  write  a  book  recalling  the  growth  of  Roman  Christianity  and 
too,  the  development  oi'  art  under  Michael  Angelo  and  the 
divine  Raphael. 


290 


Rome 


Interior  of  '^ St.  Paul's  outside  itie  Walls'* 


Rome  More  Familiarly 

After  our  visit  to  Pompeii  in  the  rain  we  were  hurried,  a 
damp,  tired,  sleepy  collection  of  human  beings,  to  the  depot, 
and  once  more  boarded  the  train  for  the  Eternal  City.  This 
was  about  1 1.30  P.  M.  Into  the  cars  were  pushed  iron  logs  of 
hot  water.  It  may  seem  primitive,  but  it  was  very  acceptable. 
We  passed  through  beautiful  scenery,  no  doubt,  but  were  unable 
to  appreciate  it  in  the  darkness.  The  thing  to  do  was  to  sleep. 
For  seven  long  hours  we  endeavored  to  sleep  horizontal,  ver- 
tical, twisted,  tortuous,  serpentine.  However,  we  reached 
Rome  in  good  time  for  breakfast,  and  then  began  our  sight 
seeing. 

First  the  Pantheon,  in  the  midst  of  a  hail  storm,  clattering 
both  outside  and  in,  for  there  is  a  large  circular  opening  in  the 
immense  dome.  The  Colosseum,  where  Professor  Renoud  lec- 
tured in  spots  historic  and  gave  us  his  views  in  quarter  sec- 
tions, defending  Nero  and  laying  the  blame  upon  his  lieuten- 
ants ;  the  Forum,  with  all  its  marvelous  history,  containing  the 


Come 


29  J 


Rostra  where  Anthony  and  Cicero  made  their  orations  and 
where  the  body  of  Ca-sar  lay.  This  interested  me  particularly, 
and  I  was  proud  to  stand  where  Cicero  stood,  to  gesticulate  as 
he  may  have  done  and  to  pick  some  flowers  and  a  stone  by 
which  to  remember  the  classical  spot. 

St.  Peter's,  the  Appian  Way,  the  Capitoline  Hill,  where  we 
passed  a  cage  of  eagles  and  one  containing  two  wolves,  remind- 
ing the  visitor  of  the  Roman  eagle  at  the  head  of  Caesar's 
legions  and  of  the  early  difficulties  Romulus  and  Remus  had  in 
gaining  a  livelihood. 


Cloisters  of  "St.   Paul's  outside  the  Walls" 


We  passed  between  the  equestrian  statues  of  Castor  and 
Pollux,  the  divine  twins,  to  the  area  between  the  museum, 
which,  with  the  town  hall,  had  taken  the  place  of  the  arches  and 
temples  of  Jupiter  and  Juno.  Not  far  away  is  the  Tarpeon 
rock,  whence  evil  doers  were  cast  to  destruction.  The  cackling 
of  geese  saved  Rome,  and  here  is  where  the  melodious  birds 
did  their  cackling.  Then  to  the  Church  of  St.  John's  Lateran, 
where  popes  used  to  be  crowned  ;  then  to  the  Santa  Scala,  or 
the  holy  steps. 

I  was  greatly  interested  in  the  steps,  which  were  full  of 
men,  women  and  children,  ascending  on  their  knees  the  steps 
that  Christ  and  Luther  trod  and  which  were  said  to  have  been 
brought  from  Jerusalem.  The  steps  themselves,  however,  are 
covered  with  wooden  slabs,  but  here  and  there  are  circular 
holes  showing  the  marble  beneath,  which  spots  the  faithful  rev- 
erently kissed  as  they  ascended.     On   each  step   a    prayer  is 


292 


R^ 


ome 


More  "  Cloister  OMleri^:,  ' 


repeated,  and  completing-  the  whole  a  soul  gets  indulgence  for 
a  thousand  years.  I  basely  ascended  the  outside  stair,  and 
through  the  iron  railing  looked  at  what  the  Latin  inscription 
said  was  the  most  sacred  place  in  all  the  world,  the  private 
chapel  of  the  popes,  erected  in  1278  and  containing,  it  is  said, 
a  painting  by  St.  Luke. 

In  the  baptistry  of  the  Lateran  and  where  Constantine  is 
said  to  have  been  baptized,  we  witnessed  a  baptism  in  which 
the  priest  entered  upon  record  the  required  data,  anointed  the 

baby's  head  with  oil,  poured  on 
sacred  water  and  went  through 
the  rather  lengthy  formula  in 
Latin  so  rapidly  that  I  did  not 
understand  what  he  said. 
The  baby  specially  concerned 
seemed  to  my  inexperienced 
eye  to  be  two  weeks  old,  alto- 
gether too  youthful  to  appre- 
ciate the  solemnity  of  this 
occasion  ;  still,  under  the  pressure  brought  to  bear,  he  was  well 
behaved,  and  his  language  beyond  criticism. 

We  listened  here  to  the  musical  doors,  which  I,  at  a  short 
distance,  mistook  for  an  organ,  and  were  shown  mosaic  ceilings 
and  cedar  from  Lebanon.  The  doors  are  said  to  have  been 
brought  from  the  baths  of  Caracalla  which  we  next  visited. 
These  baths  cover  34  acres  and  were  large  enough  to  accommo- 
date 1600  bathers  at  one  time.  They  provided  both  cold  and 
hot  water  and  steam.  The  ruins  are  huge  and  the  indica- 
tions of  past  grandeur  are  numerous.  The  mosaics  from  the 
pavement  of  this  are  in  the  Museum  of  St.  John's  Lateran. 

Next  we  visited  a  portion  of  the  great  sewer  of  Rome,  the 
Cloica  Maxima,  used  for  2000  years  and  still  in  use.  On  the 
walls  we  were  shown  by  the  keeper  the  figures  indicating  the 
height  of  the  water  as  it  backed  up  from  the  Tiber.  Under- 
neath the  church  of  the  Capuchins  we  entered  the  cemetery  in 
which  there  is  a  suit  of  four  rooms,  decorated  with  the  bones 
of  thousands  of  monks  who  have  been  buried  here  since  the 
sixteenth  century.  Some  one  has  estimated  that  there  are 
1200  square  feet  covered  by  these  bones  in  fantastic  shapes. 
The  decorations  are  entirely  of  bones.     It  was  the  most  ghastly. 


Rome 


293 


ghostly  sepulchral  scene  I  had  ever  witnessed.  One  skull  is 
usually  too  much  for  a  timid  maid,  but  here  bones  are  in  baskets 
hanging  from  the  walls,  bones  are  in  frescoes,  in  mosaics,  in 
arches,  in  piles  like  cord  wood  around  the  room  and  hundreds 
of  skulls  grin  like  fiends  upon  those  who  enter. 

Ulna,  femur,  scapula,  ribs,  teeth,  digits,  skulls  in  weird 
fantastic  combinations  decorate  this  unique  bone-yard  of 
imperial  Rome. 


"  Under  canopies  of  bones  upon  bone  couches  " 


Leaving  this  ghostly  cellar  we  were  taken  to  the  Pincian 
Gardens  on  the  Pincian  Hills.  We  reached  this  elevation  at  a 
most  propitious  time,  when  the  drives  were  filled  with  fine 
teams  and  carriages  and  the  bon  ton  of  the  capital.  Here  I 
was  able  to  gratify  a  wish  to  see  Rome  from  above  and  see  the 
seven  hills  of  which  we  have  as  school  boys  read.  It  is  not 
possible  to  distinguish  all  definitely,  as  rubbish  and  the  dust  of 
ages  have  filled  the  depressions  between  the  hills,  and,  perhaps, 
the  hills  are  not  as  high  as  our  imagination  has  pictured  them. 
Around  and  around  the  garden  we  drove,  passing  the  strange 
water-clock,  which  seemed  to  be  keeping  Easton  time  and  was 


294 


Rome 


incorrect  in  its  indica- 
tions. To  the  north 
of  "  Monte  Pinch " 
was  the  Borghesian 
villa  and  library, 
which  we  had  not 
time  to  visit.  We 
had  not  been  blessed 
with  a  guide,  and  our 
driver  was  unable  to 
spealc  English.  Here 
is  where  my  Latin 
was  once  more  of 
value.  Not  only  were  we  able  to  go  where  we  wanted,  but 
I  wormed  out  of  him  some  family  history.  To  make  him  smile 
it  was  only  necessary  to  praise  his  horse  ;  "  Eqiio  bono,  valido 
pulchro  grandissimo''  was  sure  to  put  him  in  a  good  humor. 
We  were  pleased  with  the  type  of  mankind  we  found  in 
Rome.  They  seemed  more  congenial,  more  good  natured  and 
cleanly  than  the  Italians  we  had  seen  at  Naples  and  those  we 
afterwards  saw  at  Genoa. — Parke. 


More  of  the  Cappuccini  Cemetery 


»_ 


-^ 


(®oricert  programrr| 

Dampfer    ,,  ALLER  " 
Donnerstag,  den   24.  Marz   1898 

1  ,,E1  Capitain",  Marsch  Sousa 

2  Fest-Ouverture  Schneider 

3  ,,Wintergartensterne",  Wal/.er  Kersten 

4  ,,Cavalleria  rusticana"  Mascagni 

5  ,,Ein  musikalischer  Moment  "  Potp.    Wedemeyer 

6  ,,  Plantation  Echoes"  Ross 

7  ,,National-Air.s  of  America"  Moses 

^ 


LOGS 


Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


Logs,  Nautical,  Edible,  Social  297 

Address  upon  the  Presentation  of  Watch  and  Purses  to 

Captain  and  Officers  


dowrupon  the  Holy  City  ;    upon   the  valley  of  the  River  Jor- 
dan ad  the  Dead   Sea  glimmering  in  the   sunshine,  lying  4000 


Logs,  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


297 


Address  upon  the  Presentation  of  Watch  and  Purses  to 
Caotain  and  Officers 


»>•                 I 

••                             '!•                           If                             «•                            W                             JV                             lo-                            «. 

/ J 

-pi 

\ 

V     .^i^    v1. 



/ 

y,:2r       f,^ 

^ 

\ 

^tfcfe  ^         --- 

i'-t 

% 

^ 

j, 

v[^ 

y 

/ 

xt^— 

\ 

2 

L^  js 

f 

At 

- 

1  >«  — 

\: 

1. 

% 

/fpf 

10' 

yYTTTTT-YI     /  1^ 

.-^^0^^-^^^^ 

-y 

■vP^^       ^^«r,o^ 

fc^-^I 

/U  ^      ^TTTT 

K--.LI^___ 

/    «^/ 

''      Vic^¥^^-*^^^ 

jVvv?r;.  ••.jrT    1 

'■ .,             ii      1 

■'""■-,  7                f 

J  ^            1  ;•    .  -  ^^ 

■              __^ 

m 

P==M                     IH 

1                Pt=^ 

:ii2!:^"l""^'^  :M"" 

ni       "      tJ     1^ 

V          /               \   /  Miritww  d 

V'' 

h 

t 

31       11 

\  Ly^^     <k. 

} 

i 

""                           / 

^ 

ItIRM 

irF 

f/i,( 

/ 

\ 

CCOKGCTWH 

'i^'-'"'  ' 

} 

i     ^ 

^0**        ,^v»«W  /' 

4- 

%v               j;w-«iTo«i._^^ 

-V^N   j~.       VT 

..^-f-vJy^: 

-           ^    V 

s^- 

4>   \ 

.     Y    

-=_    xJ 

i'-:is.  _.- 

-  __ 

L 

1 

SAILING  CHART  USED  BY 
AUerruite  German  And  American  Flags  ^uere 


down  upon  the  Holy  City  ;    upon   the  valley  of  the  River  Jor- 
dan and  the  Dead   Sea  glimmering  in  the   sunshine,  lying  4000 


1 

1 

tf                   If                   21-                  m-                   IV                   10*                   5"                    0                     i"                    !»•                   li*                   « 

, /:_^ S     X      -5^ 

,■■•>  #        w  y^\,    ff 

--     -  -        -         iiJ^  -  T4  Iri-  -     -  -     v^  k        ^2 

.-■'  L-^'^^'"""^                S  ^O'V^J 

/^^"^     ^                          |?4£;>U    _>M.-~ 

fr  '       "li^  '''~^"!p«  ^"""'** 

_H _____:iiS^'""-'*' 

^ 

__                              ^,, 

^■            j^^  ?rT^      «■ 

: T_       _   _  i  _     _   _     _                   7^'^..,         jSI  L^L 

-^^"^^"-^-^^      Vnv^^C\  ^   v. 

r      X                                    i             )     L    /  "^  k  V    ^ 

■  M 

1         np?n    '         "                "           '      "      h                   S.-^S'^    -><    ^V,   -^ 

Ilia 

:.:>  ::    :::::::  ::  m^-™        /:B-  :d^:   ^kC^- 

^'9  ;=":_"    .  ■■■               -       t             Ll^Mr   lU       ^  ^S 

'     ^"--4:«a            1^      _     3'"^*«  ^      /^.*!T'^              p..>'   ■" 

"""                  .(~-p.--c---  ^           wu,    »='-A  .    T   ----».  'V'^ 

-          '  ■■     ':,»**            F*~\.                  illlllB^    £■"""            _ _J-*— O"""*—*^  l^          "s/ 

_Hj_  4.       ^,  ?^5mlLu-*'^              y      _"     "„. 

i        '  %^                        (t         ± 

.     -            7^     '                               ^.„    -  - 

/                                                        vi-u 

7                                             \^ 

)                                                                                                    "V. 

1                                                                                               _y 

J'^c^        J^ 

,1.  . 

.  ^- __...._.-,    ,± .!_-7^ 

ULLER  ON  HOMEWARD  VOYAGE 

pinned  on  the  Chart  at  the  end  of  each  d^y's  run 


Logs,  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


297 


Address  upon  the  Presentation  of  Watch  and  Purses  to 
Captain  and  Officers 

Ladies  and  Gentlemen  of  the  Clark- Alter  Cruise  : 

Some  seven  weeks  ago  we  came  together  from  widely 
separated  parts  of  our  own  great  country  and  from  some  of  the 
Canadian  provinces,  and  placed  ourselves  under  the  care  of 
Captain  Nierich,  when  on  shipboard,  and  under  the  guardian- 
ship   of   Mr.   Clark,   when    on  land. 

Since  that  time  we  have  crossed  the  Adantic  and  traversed 
the  entire  length  and  breadth  of  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and 
visited  nearly  all  of  the  interesting  places  on  its  classic  shores. 
To-morrow  we  expect  to  arrive  in  Naples,  and  many  of  us  will 
leave  the  ship  for  further  European  travel,  and  the  cruise  will 


To  '*  Carri-her  Pigeons  "  into  vie'iv 
One  Cruiser  thus  iDas  ivon*t  to  do 


practically  be  ended  ;  and  yet  it  will  not  be  ended,  as  its  mem- 
ories will  continue  with  us  as  long  as  any  of  us  shall  live.  We 
will  often  stand  on  the  ship's  deck  as  we  approach  the  Azore 
Islands,  and  will  see  the  land  rising  up  out  of  the  ocean  before 
us,  until  it  reaches  an  altitude  of  7600  feet,  covered  with  a 
white  crown  of  snow.  We  will  often  pass  into  the  straits 
between  Pico  and  Fayall  and  see,  on  either  hand,  land  cov- 
ered with  a  garment  of  green,  with  olive,  orange  and  almond 
trees  and  numerous  villages  with  white  churches,  presenting  a 
beautiful  pastoral  scene  that  delights  the  eye  of  a  beholder. 

We  will  often  stand  upon  the  Mount  of  Olives  and  look 
down  upon  the  Holy  City  ;  upon  the  valley  of  the  River  Jor- 
dan and  the  Dead   Sea  glimmering  in  the   sunshine,  lying  4000 


298  Logfs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 

feet  below  us  ;  upon  the  fair  Judean  Hills  ;  upon  the  Plains  of 
Sharon  ;  upon  the  little  town  of  Bethlehem,  where  Christ  was 
born,  and  of  Bethany,  where  He  loved  to  go  at  night  after  the 
toils  of  the  day  were  over  ;  upon  the  Mosque  of  Omar,  with 
its  domes  and  minarets,  standing  where  Solomon's  Temple 
once  stood  ;  upon  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  where 
Christ  was  laid  in  the  new  tomb  of  Joseph  of  Arimatha^a  ;  upon 
the  valley  of  Jehosophat ;  the  Brook  Kedron  ;  the  Pools  of 
Salome,  the  Garden  of  Gethsemane  with  its  ancient  olive  trees  ; 
upon  the  mountains  of  Moab,  and  upon  every  place  made  sacred 
by  the  birth,  the  life,  the  death  and  the  resurrection  of  the 
world's  Redeemer. 


^         ^' 

■^ 

'  i 

iHfeHl^^^^B                   at                 ^l^k^^^^^^^^r-'^ 

I 

B^i 

^^^^^M^"**'   ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^H^^^  '^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^1 

1 

Fog  on  "  foio,"  face  and  film 

And  then  that  golden  day,  that  day  borrowed  from  the 
treasury  of  heaven,  when  we  were  called  by  the  bugle's  blast 
at  5  o'clock  in  the  morning  to  see  the  ship  enter  the  classic  Hel- 
lespont, now  known  as  the  Dardanelles,  where  Xerxes  crossed 
on  a  bridge  of  boats  from  Asia  to  Europe,  and  where  Alexander 
crossed  from  Europe  to  Asia,  and  across  which  Leander  nightly 
swam  to  visit  his  beloved  Hero,  and  where  the  great  conquerors 
of  Europe  and  Asia  passed  up  to  the  Sea  of  Marmora  and  the 
Golden  Horn.  We  will  often  pass  through  that  classic  sea, 
pass  by  the  Golden  Horn,  through  the  Straits  of  Bosphorus 
into  that  inland  ocean,  the  great  Black  Sea,  back  to  the  wharf 


Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social  299 

in  Constantinople  and  see  more  than  ten  thousand  faces  look- 
ing out  from  under  turbans  and  red  fez  caps  upon  the  strangers 
from  a  foreign  land. 

We  will  often,  while  yet  upon  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  see  the 
great  city  rising  from  out  the  water  and  disclosing,  one  after 
another,  its  thousand  minarets,  its  domes,  its  mosques,  its  mag- 
nificent buildings  of  Saracenic  architecture,  until  the  whole 
magnificent  view  is  spread  out  before  us.  Books  will  be  writ- 
ten, newspaper  articles  will  be  printed,  numerous  lectures  will 
be  given,  and,  practically,  this  cruise  will  never  end. 

We  have  left  the  land  of  the  minaret,  the  camel,  the  donkey, 
the  veiled  women  and  the  continuous  cry  for  "backsheesh," 
and  to-morrow  will  reach  a  land  more  or  less  familiar  to  all  of 
us,  and  where  we  will  exchange  the  Orient  for  the  Occident  and 
take  a  place  again  among  a  Christian  community. 

All  these  weeks  we  have  been  under  the  watchful  care  of 
Captain  Nierich  and  his  officers,  who  have  stood  upon  the 
bridge  and  guided  the  course  of  the  great  ship  with  remarkable 
skill  and  ceaseless  vigilance.  It  was  to  be  expected  that  a 
great  company,  like  the  North  German  Lloyd,  would  have 
capable  and  efficient  officers  in  charge  of  their  ships,  but  it  was 
more  than  we  could  expect,  that  they  should  all  be  such  kind 
and  courteous  gentlemen,  and  do  so  much  in  every  way  to 
make  the  ship  a  real  home  for  the  passengers.  In  substantial 
recognition  of  not  only  the  skill  and  unceasing  care,  but  the 
courtesy  of  all  of  the  officers,  the  members  of  the  Clark  Aller 
cruise  have  procured  a  beautiful  watch,  which  they  have 
instructed  me  to  present  to  Commander  Nierich,  and  a  purse 
to  each  of  the  officers  of  the  ship  and  also  the  purser,  to  be 
used  by  them  to  purchase  a  souvenir  of  the  cruise  to  be 
engraved  in  the  same  manner  as  the  captain's  watch. 

In  addition  to  the  world  with  which  we  are  all  familiar  and 
are  well  acquainted,  there  is  another  world  on  this  ship,  a  world 
of  fire,  of  heat,  of  hissing  steam  and  of  revolving  wheels,  every 
turn  of  which  brings  us  nearer  our  destined  port.  I  am  also 
instructed  to  give  to  the  Chief  Engineer  a  purse  with  a  like 
inscription  and  to  be  used  for  the  same  purpose.  And  now,  it 
only  remains  for  me  to  convey  to  Captain  Nierich  and  his 
officers  the  assurance  that  we  will  always  hold  him  and  them  in 
grateful  remembrance,  and  wish  them  all  the  richest  blessings 
which  earth  can  bestow. — Geo.  Waldo  Smith,  Esq. 


300  Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 

Resolutions 
The  following  resolutions  and  expressions  of  appreciation 
were  unanimously  adopted  at  a  meeting  of  the  members  of 
"  Clark's  Aller  Cruise  "  assembled  in  the  main  saloon  of  the 
North  German  Lloyd  steamship  Aller,  Thursday  evening, 
March  24,  1898: 

Resolved,  That  the  quiet  and  efficient  manner  in  which  discipline  and 
order  have  been  maintained  on  the  ship  Aller;  the  courtesy  and  ability  of  the 
officers  and  stewards  and  their  success  in  making  the  ship  a  real  home  to  us 
during  this  cruise  to  the  Orient  has  found  spontaneous  expression  and  universal 
recognition  by  every  member  of  our  company. 

Resolved,  That  the  character,  conduct  and  work  of  Captain  Nierich  and 
his  staff  of  officers  compels  our  admiration  and  esteem  for  them  as  men  as 
well  as  seamen.  Not  for  one  moment  has  the  most  timid  had  occasion  to  give 
the  slightest  consideration  to  the  management  of  the  vessel,  but  all  have  been 
free  to  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  the  trip  undisturbed  by  accident,  failure  or 
mistake  in  conduct  or  management. 

The  bravery  and  humanity  of  the  officers  of  this  vessel  on  a  late  occasion 
have  found  well-merited  recognition  elsewhere,  but  it  is  our  privilege  to 
further  recognize  their  qualities  as  seamen  and  gentlemen  and  to  express  to 
them  present  and  absent  our  appreciation  of  their  qualities  and  our  thanks  for 
their  attention  and  kindness. 

(Signed) 

G.  WALDO  SMITH,  Chairman, 
ALFRED  J.  P.  McCLURE,  Secretary. 

On   Board  S.  S.  Aller,  near  Naples,  March  24,  1898. 

Mr.  Frank  C.  Clark  : 

Dear  Sir: — At  a  meeting  of  the  .4//c/- Cruise  party  held  in  the  forward 
cabin  this  morning,  there  was  such  a  spontaneous,  unanimous  and  hearty 
appreciation  expressed  of  the  uniform,  kindly  and  courteous  treatment  we 
had  all  received  at  your  hands  since  you  took  charge  of  us  in  New  York  on 
February  5  th  last,  that  a  resolution  was  passed  appointing  a  committee  of  two 
to  convey  to  you  in  these  few  words  our  sentiment  of  appreciation,  of  regard 
and  esteem  for  you  which  we  will  all  carry  with  us,  as  we  separate  at  Naples 
to-morrow. 

It  is  not  our  desire  to  come  to  you  with  any  stereotyped  phrases  or  plati- 
tudes, for  we  have  come  to  know  you  as  a  practical  business  man,  but  we  do 
desire  to  express  to  you  in  this  way  our  genuine  and  hearty  appreciation  of 
the  ability  and  promptness  with  which  you  have  carried  out  the  details  of  this 
cruise,  of  your  anxiety  for  our  comfort,  welfare  and  safety,  and  the  very  gen- 
erous manner  in  which  we  have  been  entertained — in  which  you  have  so  well 
acted  the  part  of  host. 

The  magnitude  of  the  undertaking  which  you  have  so  successfully  and 
satisfactorily  carried  out  is  patent  to  us  all,  and  we  congratulate  you  most 
earnestly  in  having  conceived  and  carried  out  to  the  letter  thus  far  the  largest, 


Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social  30  J 

most  extensive,  most  comprehensive  and  satisfactory  cruise  ever  undertaken  so 
far  as  we  are  aware,  and  we  feel  tiiat  you  are  entitled  to  the  confidence  and 
the  consideration  of  the  traveling  public,  to  whom  it  will  always  be  our 
l)leasure  to  recommend  you. 

Trusting  that  no  single  incident  may  occur  that  would  in  any  way  mar 
the  pleasure  of  the  return  trip  to  New  York,  and  not  forgetting  to  recognize 
and  to  express  our  gratitude  to  a  benign  and  kindly  Providence  that  has  so 
smiled  on  us  during  this  entire  trip,  we  wish  you  every  success  in  your  further 
undertakings,  and  assure  you  that  it  will  be  many  a  long  day  before  there  shall 
fade  from  our  memory  the  pleasant  recollections  and  the  delightful  associations 
and  experience  of  the  '■'■Aller  Cruise.'''' 

(Signed) 

G.  WAI-DO  SMITH, 
GEO.  D.  SEI.DEN, 
•  Committee. 

Obituaries 
On  Monday,  the  7th  of  F"ebruary,  only  two  days  out  from 
New  York,  there  occurred  a  sad  event  that  served  to  remind  us 
that  the  king  of  terrors  holds  sway  on  the  ocean  as  well  as  on 
land.  Mr.  Rudolph,  whose  picture  is  among  the  list  of  our  pas- 
sengers, a  fine,  genial-looking  man,  died  from  acute  meningitis. 
He  was  taken  with  a  severe  chill  soon  after  coming  on  board 
the  vessel,  and  soon  thereafter  lapsed  into  unconsciousness, 
from  which  he  was  never  aroused.  He,  with  his  wife,  was 
booked  for  the  full  trip  round  the  Mediterranean  to  Egypt  and 
the  Holy  Land.  Mr.  Rudolph  was  a  business  man  of  excellent 
standing  in  Philadelphia,  was  a  Knight  Templar,  a  past  com- 
mander of  that  order,  and  a  member  of  several  other  associa- 
tions and  societies.  Funeral  services  were  held  accordino-  to 
the  usages  of  the  Knights  Templar  order,  and  were  conducted 
by  Sir  Knight  Rev.  W.  A.  Hutchinson,  D.  D.,  of  Jackson, 
Ohio.  Dr.  Hutchinson,  in  the  course  of  his  address,  remarked 
"  that  though  Mr.  Rudolph  had  started  with  his  wife  for  the  Holy 
Land,  militant  and  present,  he  had  been  quickly  transported, 
we  all  hoped  and  believed,  to  that  Holy  Land  triumphant."  Mr. 
Rudolph  was  identified  with  the  Baptist  Church  in  Philadelphia, 
and  his  friends  speak  of  him  in  this  connection  with  apprecia- 
tion. The  body  was  embalmed  and  taken  with  us  to  Gibraltar, 
our  first  stop.  From  there  his  sorrowing  wife  returned  by  the 
next  ship  with  the  body  to  New  York  and  Philadelphia  and  home. 
As  a  Knight,  as  a  member  of  our  party,  everything  was  done  in 
the  kindest  possible  manner  for  Mrs.  Rudolph  in  her  affliction. 


302 


Log:s  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


"  The  announcement  of  the  death  of  C.  P.  Skinner,  Esq.,  in 
Westfield,  N.  Y.,  came  to  Ottawa,  a  sad  yet  not  an  unexpected 
message.  It  was  a  message  that  gave  tidings  that  a  pure  and 
good  man  whose  business  affairs  were  successfully  conducted 
within  the  limitations  of  the  Christian's  conscience  and  ideals,  a 
gentleman  "  sans  peur  et  sans  reproche,"  had  passed  from  the 
business  life  of  Ottawa  forevermore.  He  died  as  he  lived, 
unobtrusively,  calmly,  courageously,  "  in  the  faith."  He  leaves 
to  his  social  and  his  business  world  the  legacy  of  the  inspiration 
of  one  man's  "  unsullied  fame." — Oltaiva  Republican-Times. 

Dr.  Charles  S.  Robinson  died  in  New  York,  February,  1899. 
He  was,  perhaps,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  of  our  pas- 
sengers, having  written  a  number  of  successful  books  and  being 
the  compiler  and  publisher  of  the  most  popular  Presbyterian 
hymn-books.  His  several  books  and  booklets  on  Egypt  are  the 
best  in  a  popular  vein  that  have  been  written  on  that  subject. 
At  the  time  of  his  death  he  was  at  work  on  a  new  book  on 
Egypt.  Most  of  the  passengers  will  remember  his  quick,  keen 
wit  and  his  inveterate  punning.  Other  deaths  are  noted  in  the 
list  of  names  by  a  *•  I  would  have  been  glad  to  print  notices 
if  they  had  been  sent  me. 


The  Voices  from  the  Engine  Room 

"  Mill,  forge  an'  try  pit  taught  them  that  when  roarin'  they  arose. 
An'  whiles  I  wonder  if  a  soul  was  gied  them  wi'  the  blows 
Oh,  for  a  man  to  weld  it  then  in  one  trip-hammer  strain 
Till  even  first-class  passingers  could  tell  the  meanin'  })lain." 


I  am  sure  I  voice  the  ex- 
perience of  many  another 
Allerite  when  I  recall  the  weird 
impression  made  by  the  thump 
and  beat  of  the  screw  and  the 
rhythm  of  the  engine.  Hov/ 
many  times  as  we  turned  in 
and  laid  an  ear  upon  a  restful 
pillow  in  our  bunk,  before 
many  moments  the  plunge  and 
thrust,  the  mighty  sobbing, 
roaring  strain  of  those  iron 
giants    laboring   down   below, 


'Vilhelm" 


I 


Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social  303 

speeding  our  course  with  untiring  power,  framed  for  us  a 
sentence  distinct  and  clear.  "  Give  me  more  room,  clickety 
boom,"  were  the  words  of  the  wrestling  giant  to  me,  and  if 
the  sea  was  high  or  my  spirits  low,  that  last  word  without 
rhyme  or  reason  subtly  changed  to  "  doom  "  and  the  phrase 
assumed  a  new  meaning.  At  any  rate,  it  was  a  real  experi- 
ence, and  has  a  flavor  belonging  distinctly  to  the  cruise.  Those 
giants  seemed  like  real  friends  of  life  and  heart  as  we  peeped 
at  them  through  the  passage-way  windows  and  watched  their 
throbbing  power. 

Later  these  marvelous  lines  of  Kipling's  came  to  my 
attention  and  fit  so  well  upon  the  weird  impression  that  I  am 
sure  many  of  the  same  mind  will  enjoy  their  reproduction. 

"  Tliat  minds  me  of  our  Viscount  loon — Sir  Kenneth's  kin — the  chap 

Wi'  Russia  leather  tennis-shoon  an'  sj^ar-decked  )achtin'-cap. 

I  showed  him  round  last  week,  o'er  all — an'  at  the  last,  says  he  : 

'  Mister  Mc Andrews,  Don't  you  think  steam  spoils  romance  at  sea?' 

Damned  ijjit  !   I'd  been  down  that  morn  to  see  what  ailed  the  throws, 

Manholin',  on  my  back — the  cranks  three  inches  from  my  nose. 

Romance  1   Those  first-class  passengers  they  like  it  very  well, 

Printed  an'  bound  in  little  books  ;   but  why  don't  poets  tell  ? 

I'm  sick  of  all  their  quirks  an'  turns  — the  loves  an'  doves  they  dream — 

Lord,  send  a  man  like  Robbie  Burns  to  sing  the  Song  o'  Steam  ! 

To  match  wi'  Scotia's  noblest  speech  yon  orchestra  sublime 

Whaurto — uplifted  like  the  Just — the  tail-rods  mark  the  time. 

The  crank-throws  give  tlie  double-bass  ;   the  feed  pump  sobs  an'  heaves  : 

An'  now  the  main  eccentrics  start  their  quarrel  on  the  sheaves. 

Her  lime,  her  own  appointed  time,  the  rocking  link-head  bides, 

Till — hear  that  note? — the  rod's  return  whings  glimmerin'  through  the  guides. 

They're  all  awa  !   True  beat,  full  power,  the  clangin'  chorus  goes 

Clear  to  the  tunnel  where  they  sit,  my  purrin'  dynamoes. 

Interdependence  absolute,  foreseen,  ordained,  decreed. 

To  work,  ye'll  note,  at  any  tilt  an'  every  rate  o'  speed, 

Fra  skylight-lift  to  furnace-bars,  backed,  bolted,  braced  an'  stayed 

An'  singin'  like  the  Mornin'  Stars  for  joy  that  they  are  made; 

While,  out  o'  touch  o'  vanity,  the  sweatin'  thrust  block  says  : 

'  Not  unto  us  the  praise  or  man — not  unto  us  the  praise  !  ' 

Now,  a'  together,  hear  them  lift  their  lesson — theirs  an'  mine: 

'  Law,  Order,  Duty  an'  Restraint,  Obedience,  Discipline  I'  " 

— Kipling^  s  Mc  Andrews  Hymn,  in  ^'2/ie  Sam  Setrs." 


304 


Logfs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


I,, 


♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ««« 

The  Captain's  Dinner 

'Dampfer  ,,ALLER-',  den  9.  April  189! 

MITTACESSEN 

Falsche  Schildkroten-Suppe,  Fleischbriihe 

Cromesquis 

Rehbraten,  Sauce  venaison 

Tournedos,  Stangenspargel 

Punsch  a  la  lomaine 

Poulardenbraten 

Birnen  Rothe  Beeten 

Plum-Pudding 

Illuminirtes  Apricosen-Eis 

Mandel  Aufsatz 

Frucht  Nachtisch 

Caffee  melange 

DINNER 

Mock-turlle-soup  Consomme 

Cromesquis 

I.oin  of  roe-venison,  sauce  venaison 

Tournedos,  asparagus 

Punch  a  la  roniaine 

Roast-poulardes 

Pears  Red  Beets 

Plum-pudding 

Transparent  apricot-ice  cream 

Almond  table-piece 

Fruit  Dessert 

Coftee  melange 


♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

X 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 
♦ 


♦ 
♦ 

X 
X 

♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 

♦ 
♦ 
♦ 


»♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦♦ ♦♦♦ 


m 


"% 


(^oncert  Programme 

LAST  EVENING  ON  VESSEL 

An  entertainment  for  the  benefit  of  the  Seamen's 
Fund.  Given  Saturday  evening,  April  9,  J898, 
on  board  the  good  ship  "Ailer,"  by  the  remain- 
ing pilgrims  of  Clark's  Aller-Cruise. 


13 
14 


Quartette,  "Where  Would  I  be" 
Original  Poem  Mr.  Chas.  C.  Craft 

Vocal  Solo,  "  Life's  Lullaby,"  Miss  A.  Mitchell 
Piano  Solo,  "  II  Penseroso,"  Miss  G.  Penfield 
Reading  Poem,  "Reincarnation," 

Dr.  A.  J.  Keckeler 
Vocal   Solo,  "  When  the  Swallows  Homeward 
Fly,"  Darkey  .Song,  College  Songs, 

Rev.  J.  L.  Egbert 
Reading,  "  The  Old  Schoolmaster's  Advice," 

Mis.  Chas.  A.  McFcely 
Vocal  Solo,  "  Song  of  All  Nations," 

Miss  Carolyn  Archbold 
Recitation,  "  Jes  Befo'  Christmas"  and  "Tom," 

Miss  Wainer 
Vocal  Solo,  "All  Through  the  Night," 

Mr.  Fred.  W.  Smith 
Chorus,  "John  Brown's  Body," 

Carrie,  Bancker,  Dorothy,  Gertrude,  Jay, 

Junior,  Minnie,  Olive,  Rodney,  etc. 

Mississippi  Boatmen's  Song,  "Ho  Bob  Riddley 

Ho,"  Mr.  Egbert 

Mr.  Gibson  announced  collection  lo  be  $25 

".Swanee  River,"  By  the  Company 

Dampfer  „ALLER" 
Sonnabend,  den  g.  April  i8g8 


„  Die  romischen  Spiele,"  Marsch, 

Carri 

Fest-Ouverture, 

Latann 

„  Immer  und  nimmer,"  Walzer 

Waldteufel 

„  Die  Post  im  Walde,"  Lied 

.Schafer 

Potpourri  of  „  German  Student's 

Songs," 

Kohlmann 

„  Erinnerung  an  Naumburg" 

Petersen 

Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social  305 

Craft's  Retrospective   Rhymes 
Read  on   the  return  round  of  the    Dampfer   Aller  upon 
the    occasion    of  the    Seamen's  Orphan   Fund  Entertainment. 

My  friends  and  fellow-passengers,  all  of  the  Aller  Cruise, 

My  motive  is  to  please  you,  not  your  patience  to  abuse, 

For  many  weeks  we've  traveled,  o'er  seas,  on  shore,  to  Rome, 

And  now  at  last,  the  vessel's  prow  is  headed  straight  for  home. 

'Tis  fitting  then,  in  retrospect,  the  past  to  overlook, 

And  call  to  mind  the  varied  scenes,  since  passing  Sandy  Hook. 

In  rain  and  fog  we  left  New  York,  the  outer  bar  was  crossed ; 

We  felt  emotions  loud  and  deep,  as  the  Aller  reared  and  tossed. 

But  fleeting  were  our  feelings,  and  we  passed  our  victuals  aft. 

And  gained  our  sea  legs  sturdily  like  weather-beaten  Craft. 

And  then  the  Azores,  emerald  gems,  that  rose  up  out  of  seas, 

Which  glinted  with  a  deep  blue-green  ;  and  sights  of  fields  and  trees ; 

Light  dotted  huts  of  white  on  green,  the  windows  gleaming  bright, 

Till  Pica's  brow,  mist-wreathed  arose,   and  crowned  the  gem-set  siglit. 

Next  Gibraltar's  frowning  heights,  a  lion  rampart  lay. 

It  seemed  a  mighty  barrier  to  stop  our  onward  way. 

But  Dampfer  Aller' s  little  tug,  though  not  a  tug  of  war. 

Made  light  of  thoughts  so  somber,  and  landed  us  on  shore. 

Through  winding  ways  in  tunnelled  rock  we  upward  climbed  to  view 

The  Spanish  main,  but  not  her  might,  for  that  is  cut  in  two. 

Away  again  our  vessel  speeds  to  Afric's  sunny  climes, 

And  when  we  waken  in  the  bay,  "  Algiers,"  the  bugle  chimes. 

A  succotash  of  sights  and  sounds  and  eastern  tinted  scenes ; 

Arabs,  copts  and  Nubians  mixed,  as  corn  is  mixed  with  beans, 

A  misty  morning  next  we  have,  a  landing  in  the  bay, 

But  Naples'  sights  are  not  on  view,  Vesuve  is  hid  away. 

Away  again  to  Malta,  where  the  Mardi-gras  so  gay. 

And  Momus,  god  of  Laughter,  with  festive  rule  held  sway. 

Cairo  next,  Kaleidoscope,  old  Cheops,  ancient  tomb, 

With  the  Nilometer  gardens  where  the  Moslem  flowers  bloom. 

Ye  ancient  Sphinx  and  camels,  ye  donkey  drivers  cry. 

As  though  the  Mouski,  Turks  and  Jews  solicit  you  to  buy. 

Arabesques  and  Scarab-esques,  Mosaics  laid  in  pearl. 

Minarets  and  Hanker-cheffs,  and  presents  for  your  girl. 

The  moon  lit  scenes  of  Luxor,  a  dream  of  ancient  fame. 

The  Nile  trip  with  its  lunches,  most  as  ancient  as  the  same. 

The  dromedary  camel,  with  a  howdah  like  a  trunk. 

And  just  about  as  rigid  as  a  steerage  passage-bunk. 

And  now  away  to  Joppa,  the  city  by  the  sea, 

Where  Simon's  house,  the  Tanner,  of  Bible  fame,  should  be. 

Jerusalem  the  Golden,  where  milk  and  honey  flows. 

And  muddy  smelly  streets  are  viewed  with  clothes-pins  on  the  nose. 

The  waters  of  Siloam's  pool  and  Jordan's  muddy  slope. 

The  waters  of  the  sea  that's  dead  and  tastes  as  strong  as  soap. 


306 


Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


The  cradle  of  our  Saviour's  birth,  the  Holy,  Holy  Land, 

God  grant  our  visit's  not  in  vain  as  Aller's  Pilgrim  band. 

Smyrna,  Beirut  and  Ephesus  are  now  but  fleeting  dreams, 

Past  Bosphorus  shores  and  Golden  Horn  the  ^//^r  quickly  steams. 

As  evening's  lengthening  sunbeams  fantastic  shadows  mock, 

Our  vessel  led  by  a  little  tug  is  landed  at  the  dock. 

Constantinople,  even  its  letters  are  a  mob  ; 

As  school  boy  how  we  trembled  when  we  undertook  the  job. 

But  now  the  spell  is  real  enough,  with  Turks  and  turbaned  things, 

"  Far  away  Moses"  now  becomes  a  tier  of  turquoise  rings, 

And  Saint  Sophia's  bloody  hand,  like  the  writing  on  the  wall. 

May  only  be  the  symbol  of  Mohammed  nation's  fall. 

Next  Athens'  might  and  Acropolis'  height  were  stormed, but  not  by  sword, 

While  even  Turkish  bayonets  were  brought  by  us  on  board. 

Then  Naples  with  its  showers  ;   Pompeii  we  missed  again, 

And  left  Vesuvius'  sunny  slopes  (juite  moistly  wet  with  rain. 

Rome,  the  eternal  city,  how  bright  its  memory  still, 

Of  walking  on  its  terraces,  the  view  from  Pincian  hill. 

The  Vatican  with  its  glories,  which  many  did  not  see — 

Quite  like  Campo  Santo's  sights  which  yet  are  still  to  be. 

As  we  left  Genoa's  rock-bound  coast  the  finest  days  were  ours, 

A  day  from  Heaven's  treasury  whilst  passing  Azores'  flowers. 

But  then  the  sun-lit  storm  arose,  with  white-capped  waves  in  sight, 

And  prankish  Neptune's  mighty  seas  rose  up  to  crow's  nest  height 

In  the  last  sad  hours  that  slowly  passed,  the  tables  e'en  were  racked, 

Like   cork  on    giant    waves    we   tossed,   while  the  cylinder  heads  were 

packed. 
But  so  it  goes,  and  here  we  are,  with  HOSPITAL  intent ; 
The  wonder  is  our  pockctbooks  contain  a  single  cent. 
But  for  seaman's  wife  and  sailor's  child,  an  orphaned  kid  is  he. 
Let's  open  up  our  little  bag,  and  give  most  heartily. 
But  now  it's  time  to  say  good  night,  Farewell  to  the  A/kr  Cruise. 
Full  time  to  end  this  lengthy  tale,  turn  in  and  take  a  snooze. 

—  Chas.   C.  Craft. 


i 


O'ir  sejs,  'With  these,  on  knees 


Log:s  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


307 


Nearing;  Home,  and  the  Last  Experiences 

Tuesday,  April  5th. — We  have  had  beautiful  weather  since 
leaving-  sunny  Italy,  and  have  made  good  time,  but  to-day,  on 
arising,  we  found  a  gale  in  our  faces,  and  the  waves,  poetically, 
mountain  high.  They  are  the  highest  I  have  ever  experienced, 
dashing  sometimes  over  the  captain's  bridge  and  drenching  the 
daring  spectators  of  the  ocean's  fury. 

Another  man  took  a  sea-bath  in  the  ladies'  saloon.  Seven 
bucketfuls  and  a  half  went  down  his  coat-collar,  likewise  ;  unlike 
the  first  victim  he  did  not  swear,  but  sadly  smiled  and  wiped 
away  his  tears — salty  ones,  I  suppose. 

At  noon  to-day  we  had   made  401  miles, 
which  is  only  i  3  miles  behind  the  record 
of  the  preceding  day.     We  are 
satisfied,  and  hope  that 
the  waves  may  sub 
side  and 
that 


C^mpo  Sanio— Genoa 


the  noble  vessel 
may  keep  her 
pledge. 

Arrangements 
were  made  to- 
day to  give  an  entertainment  Thursday  evening  in  aid  of  the 
Seamen's   Fund. 

Wednesday,  April  6th. — The  past  night  has  been  a  hard  one. 
It  was  almost  impossible  to  sleep.  I  rose  early  and  investigated. 
The  screw  stopped,  and  while  we  merely  floated  I  assumed  to 
go  up  on  the  captain's  bridge.  Asking  the  gallant  fourth  offi- 
cer why  he  had  slowed  up,  he  said  "  that  the  passengers  might 
get  some  sleep  and  the  officers  some  rest." 

I  called  to  mind  the  fact  that  they  were  not  usually  so 
thoughtfully  inclined  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morning.  I  became 
suspicious.  About  this  time  I  noticed  a  big  wave,  hairy  with 
spray,  making  for  the  bridge.  I  made  a  sickly  attempt  to  dodge, 
but  got  the  full  benefit,  and  retired,  a  saltier  and  wiser  pas- 
senger. 


308  Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 

Before  breakfast  I  had  obtained  five  different  and  distinct 
reasons  for  the  stopping  of  the  engines.  Perhaps  the  most 
authoritative  one  v^^as  the  one  assigned  by  the  captain,  which 
was  that  they  had  stopped  two  hours  to  put  new  packing  in  the 
cylinder. 

When  the  ship  is  under  good  headway  among  these  mag- 
nificent waves,  there  is  great  pitching ;  the  455  feet  go  up 
and  down  Hke  a  chip.  The  timbers  creak  and  the  wheel 
revolves  with  a  velocity  and  an  irregularity  that  makes  the  hull 
shiver  and  the  people  shudder.     It  seems  as  if  something  must 


The  Three  Graces 


break  when  subjected  to  such  tremendous  force.  But  our  ves- 
sel is  staunch  and  strong,  and  I  have  seen  not  more  than  two 
or  three  that  felt  discouraged  and  alarmed. 

When  the  engine  stops  the  ship  rolls.  For  breakfast  this 
morning  we  had  rolls  of  colossal  proportion.  It  was  positively 
dangerous  in  the  dining-room.  The  shelves  were  on  all  the 
tables,  but  the  dishes  could  not  be  controlled.  The  dishes  on  our 
table  started  a  hurdle-race  and  aimed  for  poor  Junior  McClure, 
who  was  at  the  end  of  the  table.  The  rest  of  us  headed  off  as 
many  stray  articles  as  we  could  while  we  struggled  to  remain 
on  our  feet,  but  the  poor  boy  was  the  centre  of  a  fine  collection 
of  knives,  forks,  steak,  saucers,  oatmeal,  plates,  butter,  milk 
and  scrambled  eggs.  There  was  enough  crockery  gathered 
lovingly  around  him  to  set  up  housekeeping. 

A  dignified  lord  not  far  from  us  had  a  pitcher  of  syrup  upset 
in  his  lap.  It  is  not  hard  to  imagine  with  what  external  sweet- 
ness he  left  the  room.     As  one  passes  from  a  room  engaged  in 


Logfs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


309 


such  emotion,  there  is  a  wonderful  amount  of  affection  displayed 
for  inanimate  objects.  Without  a  blush  a  woman  will  hug  an 
unresponsive  post  for  several  consecutive  seconds,  then  with  a 
dainty  half-grown  scream  will  make  for  the  nearest  securely- 
anchored  object,  carefully  avoiding  unanchored  men,  who  have 
enough  to  do  to  navigate  in  the  same  way. 

After  the  cylinder  was  packed  we  started  off  at  a  moderate 
pace,  and  at  noon  were  brought  face  to  face  with  the  fact  that 


'  Tivo  souls  •with  but  a  single  thought, 
Txuo  hearts  that  beat  as  one  ; 
T'wo  hungry,  sea-sick  passengers — 
^bween  them  one  poor  bun.'' 


we  had  lost  i  50  miles,  having  made  only  249  miles  in  the  24 
hours.  Nobody  complains,  for  we  are  willing  to  go  slowly  and 
avoid  the  risk  of  breaking  a  shaft  here  in  this  unfrequented 
tract  of  ocean. 

Rain  and  wind  and  spray  in  the  afternoon  drove  every  one 
from  the  decks.  The  water,  as  it  whizzed  past  the  door,  made 
us  feel  that  it  was  safer  within.  Our  song  service  was  held  as 
usual,  but  was  brief. 

April  7th. — We  had  a  rough  and  rather  restless  night.  The 
winds  are  still  severe  and  the  waves  are  billowy  and  the  A//er 
"  pitchy."  The  sun  came  out  about  seven  o'clock,  and  the 
barometer  is  rising.    During  the  night  an  immense  wave  struck 


310 


Logfs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


over  the  whole  ship,  damaging  the  bridge  and  breaking  a  life- 
boat almost  loose.  The  force  of  water  in  motion  must  be  tre- 
mendous, for  the  iron  railing  was  bent,  and  the  wooden  banis- 
ter, six  or  eight  inches  wide,  was  broken  in  two  or  three  places. 
During  the  afternoon  the  sea  became  calm  again,  and  the  deck 
was  frequented  by  the  ladies. 

Friday,  April  8th. — This  is  Good  Friday,  and  we  were  reli- 
giously awakened  by  the  band  playing  hymns.  Many  are  sick, 
even  those  who  escaped  before.  Old  times  are  being  revived. 
One  told  of  a  Senator  from  the  West  who  threw  up  everything 
except  his  immortal  soul  and  his  commission  as  Senator.  The 
weather  seems  to  be  good,  but  at  twelve  to-day  we  had  made 
only  376  miles,  which  lessens  our  chances  for  landing  on  Sunday. 
It  is  remarkable  how  interesting  these  noonday  figures  of  the 
captain  are  as  we  return.  On  the  way  over  I  scarcely  deigned 
to  notice  them.  We  have  passed  about  six  vessels  on  our  way 
back,  all  at  a  distance.  Two  of  these  were  warships,  as  the 
officers  reported.  Some  on  board  are  making  themselves 
believe  that  they  were  connected  with  the  Spanish  war. 

Saturday,  April  9th. — During  the  past  night  there  was  a 
storm  and  fierce  head  wind,  and  our  run  at  twelve  was  382 
miles,  leaving  over  400  miles  yet  to  do.  We  still  hope  to  reach 
New  York  in  time  to  land  on  Sunday.  We  are  having  beauti- 
ful weather,  and  the  sea  is  smooth.  We  have  no  pitch  or  rolls 
now.  This  evening  we  had  our  final  dinner,  and  the  effort  was 
successful  and  appreciated. 

The  captain  made  a  short  speech,  and  G.  Waldo  Smith, 
Esq ,  one  in  reply,  and  Rev.  Mr.  McClure  proposed  three 
rousing  American  cheers  for  the  Aller  and  her  captain.  There 
was  illuminated  apricot  ice  cream,  and  a  parade  by  the  waiters 
preceded,  with   lights    turned   out,   the    band   playing  one    of 

Sousa's  marches  and 
the  passengers  clapping 
their   hands. 

To-niojht  the  much- 
announced  entertain- 
ment took  place,  and  a 
respectable  sum  will  be 
turned  over  to  the 
Seamen's   Fund. 


*'  And  so  the  dreamy  d^ys  luent  by  " 


Log:s  Nautical,  Edible,  Social  Hi 

Conductors  and  Officers 

Manacer:    MR.    FRANK. C.    CLARK. 

Conductors  : 
MR.  L.   LEWIS,  MR.  J.   R.  STEWART, 

MR.  LEON  L.  COLLVER,  MR.  ALFRED  SCHWITZGUEBEL, 

MR.   HERMAN  HORNSTEIN, 

Commander  :   R.  NIERICH. 
Chief  Officer:   M.  Malchow.  Third  Officer:    P.  Konk;. 

Second  Officer  :   L.  Ammon.  Fourth  Officer  :   E.  Zander. 

Physician:    Dr.  R.  Ehebald. 

Chief  Engineer:    A.  Kreth.  Third  Engineer:   C.  Kapitzky. 

Second  Engineer  :   O.  Laegel.  Fourth  Engineer  :    M.Winkler. 

Third  Engineer  :    C.  Wesemann.  Fourth  Engineer  :  C.  SchCtte. 

Fourth  Engineer  :   B.  Seehusen. 

\  A.  Dreyer. 
Pursers  :  •    .,    ,, 

I  (•.  Stede. 

Chief  Steward  :   F.  Vollers.  Second  Steward  :   K.  Wohi.faiirt. 

Second  Steward  :  J.  StCmpel. 
Head  Chef:   C.  Miller.  Second  Chef:   A.  Schulz. 

Second  Chef:   C.  Vanselow.  Second  Chef:    H.  Sunkel. 

Transcript  of  the  Alter' s  Nautical  Log 

Departure  from  New  York,  Fel)ruary  5lh,  at  noon. 
Feb.     6tli,      331   miles. 

7th,      370      " 

8th,      338     " 

loth,     354     " 

nth,     345      '•   from    1.20   p.    m.    until  the   12th   Feb.,    10.30  a.    m., 

between  Azores. 
12th,      231      " 

i3tli.     351      " 
14th,      346     " 

15th,      248      "   7  00  a.  m.,  arrived  at  (Gibraltar. 

3266      "  3266  miles. 

Departure  from  Gibraltar,  February  15th,  at  1.30  p.  m. 
Arrived  at  Malaga,  February  15th,  at  5.30  p.  m.  ;  distance,  59      " 

Departure  from  Malaga,  February  17th,  at  2.55  a.  m. 
Feb.    i7lh,      130  miles. 
"      i8th,      234     "  6.45  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Algiers. 


364     "  364 

Departure  from  Algiers,  February  iSth,  at  6.40  j).  m. 
Feb.    19th,      244  miles. 
"      20th,     323     "   7.20  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Naples. 

567      "  567 


3(2  Log;s  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 

Departure  from  Naples,  February  21st,  at  4.08  a.  m. 
•Feb.    2ist,       115  miles. 
"      22nd,     215      "   6.34  a.  m. ,  arrived  at  Valetta  (Malta). 


330     "  330  miles. 

Departure  from  Valetta,  February  22iid,  at  8.25  p.  m. 
Feb.    23d,       343  miles. 

"      24th,      376     " 

"       25th,      200     "   5.20  a.  m..  arrived  at  Alexandria. 


819     "  819     " 

Departure  from  Alexandria,  March  ist,  at  3  47  p.  m. 

Mar.      2nd,     270  miles,  9.45  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Jaffa,  270     " 

Departure  from  Jaffa,  March  2nd,  at  6  p.  m. 

Mar.      3rd,     141   miles,  6.15  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Port  Said,  141      " 

Departure  from  Port  Said,  March  3rd,  at  4.27  p.  m. 

Mar.      4th,      156  miles,  6.27  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Alexandria,  156      " 

Departure  from  Alexandria,  March  8th,  at  4  p.  m. 

Mar.      9th,      270  miles,  8.40  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Jaffa,  270     " 

Rough  sea  ;  impossible  lo  anchor  on  Jaffa  road  ;  kept  the 
ship  in  sight  of  Jaffa  until  4. 10  p.  m.  We  dropped  anchor 
near  Jaffa  ;  impossible  to  disembark  passengers. 
Departure  from  Jaffa,  March  loth,  at  7.45  a.  m.  Kept  the  ship 
in  sight  of  Jaffa  till  noon  ;  weather  getting  rougher ;  set 
off  for  Port  Said. 
Mar.    nth,      154  miles,  6.25  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Port  Said,  154     " 

Departure  from  Port  Said,  March  nth,  at  6.22  j).  m. 

Mar.    12th,      132  miles,  6.25  a.  m.,  arrived  at  Jaffa,  132     " 

Departure  from  Jaffa,  March  12th,  at  10.35  ^-  "^• 

Arrived  at  Haifa,  March  12th,  at  2.45  p.  m  ,  55      " 

Departure  from  Haifa  March  12th,  at  5  p.  m. 

Arrived  at  Beirut,  March  13th,  at  6  50  a.  m.,  70     " 

Departure  from  Beirut,  March  14th,  at  5.50  a.  m. 

Arrived  at  Haifa,  March  14th,  at  11.27  a.  m.,  70     " 

Departure  from  Haifa,  March  15th,  at  6.35  a.  m. 
Arrived  at  Jaffa,  March  15th,  at  12.15  ^-  "^•i  55      '' 

6778     " 

We  are  told  by  signals  from  shore,  "  Landing  impossible  ;"  kept  in  sight 
of  Jaffa  till  3.06  p  m.  Dropped  anchor  and  took  passengers  on  board  the 
next  morning. 

Departure  from  Jaffa,  March  i6th,  at  i.oo  p.  m., 

Arrived  at  Haifa,  "       i6ih,  at  4.50  p.  m.  55  miles. 

Departure  from  Haifa,     '•       16th,  at  9.15   p.  m., 

Arrived  at  Beirut,  "       17th,  at  6.20  a.  m.  70     " 

Departure  from  Beirut,    "       17th,  at  3.00  \>.  m. 
Mar.  i8th,     342   miles. 
"       19th,     322      "  Arrived  at  Smyrna,  7.47  a.   m. 


664  miles.  664 

Departure  from  Smyrna,  March  19th,  6.50  p.  m. 

Mar.     20th,   287  miles,  3.19  p.  m.      Passed  Constantinoi)le,  287 

Went  up  and  back  the  Bosphorus,  32 


Log:s  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 

Arrived  at  Constantinople  pier,  6.00  p.  m. 
Departure  from  Constantinople  March  21st,  at  6.00  p.  m. 
Arrived  Piraeus,  "       2 2d,  at  5.30  p.   m.. 

Departure  from  Piraeus,  "       23d,  at  6.00  p.    m. 

Mar.  24th,     302  miles. 
"       25th,     371     "  Arrived  9.45  a.  m.  at  Naples. 


673 


Departure  from  Naples,  March  28th,  at  6.20  p.  m. 
Arrived  at  Genoa,  "       29th,  at  2.40  [).  m.. 

Departure  from  Genoa,  March  30th,  at   10.24  a.  ni. 
Mar.  31st,      418  miles. 
Apr.     ist,      425     "       Arrived  2.45  p.  m.  at  Gibraltar, 


843  miles. 
Departure  from  Gibraltar,  March  30th,  at  10.18  p.  m. 
April     2d,     222 

"       3d,     414  • 
•••     4th,     414 

"     S'h,     401 

"     6th,      249 

"     7th,     316 

"     8th,     374 

"     9th,     382 

"  loth,  414 
Sandy  Hook,  31 
Hoboken  Pier  22 


3J3 

364  miles. 

673     " 

345     " 

843     " 


3239 


3239 

6572     " 
6778     " 


13350     " 


THE    LAST    LOG    BULLETIN    OF    THE    ALLER    CRUISE    POSTED 


llpr€d[#iits€l^@r   %Mjd^ 


Sovn4a(>cnb       den       9       '^        d-pti^       189  8 

40°    50   m         Breite    und  64°    4   fni      Lange. 

Zuiiickgelegte  Distanz :  OoZ  Seemeilen. 

Di.stanz  bis  -t-lCltl^C  2772  Seemeilen. 

J        Tage  lo.O  Stunden  in  Sec 

qR.q^^   -&ic>    Sanbi^    efCoofi    450 


II.  M.  II.  Korin  I ;>■->.  .'jUIIO 


g)v.    9Iietiofv 


3J4 


Logs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


THE  EDIBLE  LOG 
Transcript  of  the  Pursers'  Record 

A    Few    Items   ok   Provisionini;   for  the  A//cr  Cruise 


Fresh  Beef, 
Veal, 
Mutton, 
Calf's  Head, 


24,426  lbs. 

2.393  " 
6,446  " 
58  pieces. 


Calf  Sweetbreads  624       " 

Liver,  292  lbs. 

Salted  Beef,  3,515   " 

Pork,  3,225   " 

Kidneys,  80  pieces. 

Calf  Tongue,  100       " 

Ox  Tongue,  95       " 

Brains,  100       " 

Pressed  Beef,  942  lbs. 

Mutton,  679  " 

Bacon ,  i >  5 ' 3   " 

Smoked  Pork,  i)i93   " 

Hams,  German,  228  pieces. 

Hams,  English,  116       '• 

Dried  Beef,  397  lbs. 

Corn  Beef,  13   " 
Corned  Canned  Beef,  666  cans. 

Spring  Lamb,  225  pieces. 

Fresh  Sausage,  85  lbs. 

Venison,  no  " 

Herring,  3  barrels. 

Herring  Boxes,  24  doz.  boxes. 

Fine  Herrings,  196  tins. 

Sardels,  10 1    " 

.Sardines,  575    " 

.Vnchovies,  98   " 
Anchovies  Essence,        1 7  glasses. 

Canned  Oysters,  108  tins. 
Fresh  Oysters,         12,000  pieces. 

Clams,  100  tins,  1,516       " 

Eels  in  Jelly,  102  tins. 

Laurel  Leaves,  3  3/'o  lbs. 

Black  Pepper,  23  6/10   " 

White  Pe|jper,  11  6/10   " 

Oil,  Sweet,  542  glasses. 

Oil,  2,627        " 

Vinegar,  35  barrels. 

Astragen  Essence,  16  glasses. 

Wine  and  Tap,  61  j/j^-bbls. 
Red  Wine, 

Straws,  7  packages. 

Vellow  Soap,  449  lbs. 


Toilet  Soap,  3,030  pieces. 

Hard  Soap,  6       " 
Rubbing  Wood  Brushes, 
187 

Brooms,  187       " 

Olives,  692  glasses. 
American  Oatmeal,     390  lbs. 

Rice,  629  ^-Ibs. 

Rice,  1,215  't)s. 

Julien,  .    124  packages. 

Celery,  75        " 

Sago,  48  lbs. 

Meal,  1 8  bbls. 

Rye,  28     " 

Wheat,  163     " 

Buckwheat,  129  lbs. 

Baking  Powder,  310     " 

Fresh  Turtles,  55     " 

Lobsters,  460     " 

Preserved  Lobsters,  255  tins. 

Preserved  Salmon,  226     " 

Crabs,  Deviled,  22  boxes. 

Fresh  Fish,  5,905  H^s. 

Salted  Mackerel,  106     " 

Smoked  Mackerel,  45     " 

.Salt  Cod,  36    " 

Clip  Fish,  720     " 

Raisins,  Sultana,  33  3/^ -lbs. 

Smyrna  Raisins,  170  lbs. 

Corinth  Raisins,  46    " 

Sacad,  10  ^^-Ibs. 
Oranges  and  Man- 
darines,           35,150  dozens. 

Lemons,  9>i67        " 

Prunelles,  186  lbs. 

Apricots,  164     " 

Figs,  433     " 

Hazel  Nuts,  199     " 

Sweet  Mandles,  144    " 

Dates,  46     " 

Dried  Peaches,  204     " 

Cream  Cheese,  584     " 

Edam  Cheese,  471     " 

Swiss  Cheese,  573     " 

Chester  Cheese,  202     " 

Crown  Cheese,  274    " 


Logfs  Nautical,  Edible,  Social 


3J5 


Rocquefort  Cheese 

458  lbs. 

Meal, 

14  doz. 

Vanilla, 

10 1  bottles. 

Cheyenne  pepper. 

3  doz.  cases 

Mace, 

I  7/10  lbs. 

Olive  Oil, 

571  bottles. 

Pulverized  Sugar, 

415  lbs. 

Pudding  Powder, 

233  cans. 

Granulated  Sugar, 

3.550     " 

Beans, 

1,236  pounds. 

T,mnp  Sugar, 

1,380     '• 

White  Cabbage, 

259 

Coffee, 

1,395     " 

Green  Cabbage, 

los 

Coffee, 

1,361  j4-lbs. 

Sour  Cabbage, 

1,980 

Tea, 

57  ll^s. 

Green  Herbs, 

2,214 

Tea, 

196  >4-lbs. 

White  Beans, 

2,190          " 

Chickory, 

178  i:i;-lbs. 

Maccaroni, 

152 

Chocolate, 

299  lbs. 

Smoked  Herrings, 

88  bo.xes. 

Cocoa, 

42     " 

Salmon, 

33  ><; -boxes. 

Bottles  of  Milk, 

286 

Smoked  Eels, 

18 

4  Barrels  of  Milk, 

902  tins. 

Star  Smoked  Eels, 

18 

2  Barrels  of  Milk, 

914     " 

Ducks, 

921  pieces. 

Potatoes,  Sweet, 

54  bushels. 

Hens, 

380        - 

Potatoes, 

1,686 

Chickens, 

5.130 

Butter,  I  St  grade, 

3,367  lbs. 

Capons, 

1,073        " 

Butter,  2d  grade, 

151     " 

Geese, 

505        " 

Salt, 

24  bbls 

Turkey, 

2,780 

Eggs, 

38,759  doz. 

Pigeons, 

800 

Plums, 

573  lbs. 

Pheasants, 

96 

Prunes, 

589     '■ 

Fish, 

570 

Apples, 

384  >4 -bushel. 

Grouse, 

580 

Apples,  2nd, 

284  bushels. 

Guinea  Hens, 

70 

Raisins, 

13  boxes. 

Herbs, 

583  pounds. 

Pineapples, 

240 

Pearl  Beans, 

294 

Glasses  of  Assorted 

String  Beans, 

394        " 

Fruit, 

58 

Carrots, 

297 

Jellies, 

93  glasses. 

Asparagus, 

293  tins. 

Candy  Syrup, 

68  bottles. 

Asparagus, 

382      " 

Raspberry, 

252       " 

Parsnips, 

221  bushels. 

Pickles, 

166 

Cabbage, 

105  heads. 

Challotter, 

28 

Beets, 

50  bushels. 

Mixed  Pickles, 

268       " 

Artichokes, 

157  pounds. 

Pickletus, 

65       " 

Mushrooms, 

147  cans. 

Olives, 

216  bottles. 

Truffles, 

142      " 

Capers, 

38        " 

Murrells, 

62      " 

Tomatoes, 

278  cans. 

Lima  Beans, 

69     " 

Tomato  Puree, 

96     " 

Succotash, 

62      " 

Corn, 

201-^  bo.xes. 

Pears, 

303     " 

Catsui), 

25' 

(Cranberries, 

145      " 

Ox-tail  Soup, 

i>7 

Strawberries, 

185      " 

Ox  Tongues, 

581 

Cherries, 

326     " 

Ducks, 

52  doz. 

Apricots, 

306     " 

Kieken, 

50      " 

Noodles, 

50     " 

Little  Birds, 

46      •' 

Egg  Food, 

51  >4-lbs. 

Prairie  Chicken, 

50      " 

Oat  Meal, 

69  cases. 

Cinnamon, 

250      " 

Gelatin, 

25  1.4  barrels. 

Sulz, 

3-055      " 

Brandy, 

bi  %  doz. 

(linger, 

10      " 

etc.,  etc. 

o 

ft; 


<« 

^ 

^ 

1. 

% 

vC 

i~ 

<> 

<u 

<o 

S 

O 

vC 

«. 

m 
^ 

^ 

*<- 

-4^ 

^ 

s 

tt 

c 

-; 

"q 

-^ 

XV3O0 


^  J 


"5    :g 


^ 
^ 


<5 


<«     1! 


J« 


u  to 


•g 


-S2 

c 


^  "5   ^ 
■3  ^5 


■a    <« 


2 


J? 


:§ 


<^   -S 


o 

O 


c 
."I 
<o 


.  f- 


o 


jS 


o 

3 


1^ 


to  ft; 


-  J" 


m    3 

•t:      <*■ 

oq  fe; 


316 


■^'^M^^;^^!^^!^^^: 


j^\ 


The  Value  of  Travel 

\f^  I  feel  like  recommending  a  sea  voyage  to  busy 

men  and  women — especially  to  those  who  are  be- 
coming somewhat  advanced  in  years.  I  would 
like  to  write  myself  down  as  a  lover  of  the  sea.  1 
believe  the  lives  of  many  people  might  be  pro- 
longed if  they  would  take  an  occasional  sea 
voyage.  It  is  a  grand  thing  to  breathe  the  ozone, 
and  witness  day  after  day  the  vast  expanse  of  the 
sea. 

Speaking  of  traveling  in  a  general  way,  I  never 
have  been  able  to  understand  why  (if  he  was  cor- 
rectly reported)  such  a  wi.se  man  and  such  a  gen- 
uine philosopher  as  Ralph  Waldo  Emerson  should 

\y'  have  been  led  to  say  that  "traveling  is  the  fool's 

paradise."  I  make  bold  to  say  "traveling  is  not 
the  fool's  paradise,"  but  a  recreation  to  be  taken 
by  wise  men  and  wise  women,  as  opportunity  may 
offer. 

A. 


\J' 


The  Infatuation  of  It 

Life,  O  !  life  of  the  free'st  kind  ; 
For  the  love  of  the  life  most  unconfined, 
A  tramp,  a  gypsy,  a  wanderer  free, 
From  land  to  land,  by  rail,  o'er  sea. 

For  no  far  end,  nor  search  nor  learn. 
Only  to  live  ;  no  longer  to  burn 
With  consuming  fire  to  get  and  to  keep, 
Torturing  the  day  and  murdering  sleep. 

Away,  go  cruising,  cast  off  all  chains. 
Banished  is  care  and  vanished  are  pains — 
Sweet  art  of  travel  for  sweet  art's  sake, 
A  joy,  a  dream  !  let  me  never  awake. 


^t 


v 


y\ 


3'7 


A 

^ 


CD 


6 

7 
8 

9 

10 

II 

12 

13 
14 
15 
i6 

17 
i8 

19 

20 
21 
22 
23 

24 

25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 
3i 
3-' 
33 
34 
35 
3'5 
37 
38 
39 


Mr.  VV.  M.  Abell,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  J.  J.  Albertson,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Mrs.  Albertson,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Miss   Anna    M.    Albertson,    Philadelphia, 

Pa. 
I'lesident,  Edwin   A   Alderman,    Chapel 

Hill,  N.  C. 

Mr.  W.  S.  Alger,  Villisca,   Iowa. 

Mrs.  Alger,  Villisca,  Iowa. 

Hon.  Frank  D.  Allen,  Boston,  Mass. 

Mis.  Allen,  Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  Alex.  M.  Amos,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  C.  W.  Archbold,  Parkersburg,  W.Va. 

Miss     Caroline     Archbold,     Parkersburg, 

W.  Va. 
Miss  Abbie  B.  Ayre,  Albany,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  Frank  H.  Babb,  San  Jose,  Cal. 
Mr.  Philip  Bachert,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  James  W.  Baird,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Mrs.  James  W.  Baird,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Miss   Maude   Ernestine   Banks,   Waltham, 

Mass. 

Mr.   George  J.   Barker,  Waltham,   Mass. 

Mrs.  Barker,  Waltham,  Mass. 

Mr.   Plenry  Barnett,   Philadelphia,   Pa. 

Mrs.  Barnett,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

Miss   Fleurette   G.    Barnett,   Philadelphia, 

Pa. 
Mr.  Harry  N.  Barnett,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Mr.   Frank  N.   Barnett,   Philadelphia,   Pa. 
Mr.  George  F'.  Barnett,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Dr.  Jno.  M.  Barton.  Rome,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  Anthony  Bait,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  Harrison  L.  Beatty.  Bainbridge,  N.Y. 
Mr.  Emil  A.  Becker,  Erie,  Pa. 
Mr.  T.  Broom  Belfield,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Mr.  Jno.  E.  Bell,  Minneapolis,  Minn. 
Mrs.  J.  E.  Bell,  Minneapolis,  Minn. 
Mr.  Wm.  M.  Bell,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 
Howard  P.  Bellows,  M.D.,  Boston,  Mass. 
Eri  D.   Bemiss,  M.D.,  Newark,  N.  J. 
Mrs.  Bemiss,  Newark,  N.  J. 
Mr.  D.  Bennett,  Le.xington,  Ky. 
Mr.  A.  J.  Bloor,  New  York  City.  N.  Y. 


3>9 


f^^=l  : 


40 

41 
42 
43 
44 

45 
46 
47 
48 

49 
SO 

SI 
52 
53 
54 


56 

57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
6j 
64 
65 
66 

67 
63 
6y 
70 
71 
7^ 
73 
74 
75 
76 

77 
78 
79 
80 
81 
8j 
83 
84 
8S 
S6 

87 


Mr.  Thos.  Bolton,  Jr.,  New  York  Citv. 
N.  Y. 

Mrs.  Bolton,  Jr.,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 

Miss  Catherine  E.  Bolton,  Brooklyn,  N.Y. 

Mr.  Geo.  W.  Bosworth,  Lexington,  Ky. 

Mr.   Benj.  J.   Bowen,  Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  Robt.  Brearley,  Harrogate,  England. 

Mr.  N.  J.  Brittan,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 

Mrs.  Martha  L.  Buck,  Decatur,  111. 

Mr.  E.  W.  Buell,  Waterville,  N.  Y. 

Mr.  A.  P.  Burton,  Erie,  Pa. 

Rev.  G.  Bickley  Burns,  Ph.D.,  Philadel- 
phia, Pa. 

Miss  M.  E.  Cady,  Dryden,  N.  Y. 

Dr  George  W.  Caldwell,  Gloversville,  N.Y. 

Rev.  Jno.  L.  Caldwell,  Pine  Bluff,  Ark. 

Rev.  Robt.  E.  Caldwell,  D.D.,  Winston, 
N.  C. 

Miss  Florence  A.  Carmichael,  New  York 

City,  N.  Y. 
Mr.  A.  E.  Carpenter,  Hamilton,  Ont. 
Mrs.   Carpenter,  Hamilton,  Ont. 
Mr   Carpenter,  Jr.,  Hamilton,  Ont. 
Rev.  J.   M.  Cassin,  Santa  Rosa,  Cal. 
Rev.  Wm.   R.   Chase,  Edison,  Ohio. 
Mrs.  J.  C.  Cheney,  Fort  Dodge,  lowc. 
Mr.  Walter  W.  Chipman,  Warsaw,  Ind. 
Rev.  J.  J.  Chisholm,  Picton,  Nova  Scotia. 
Miss  Diathia  Cook,  Chillicothe,  Iowa. 
Mr.  Charles  M.  Cooper,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Miss  Emily  W.  Cottrell,  Danville,  Pa. 
Mr.  Charles  C.  Craft,  Crafton,  Pa. 
Mrs.  Craft,  Crafton,  Pa. 
Miss  Emma  B.  Culbertson,  Boston,  Mass. 
Rev.  George  L.  Curtiss,  Columbus,  Ind  * 
Mr.  Jno.  Curry,  San  Francisco,  Cal. 
Hon.  S.  M.  Cutcheon,  Detroit,  Mich. 
Mrs.  Cutcheon,   Detroit,   Mich. 
Mr.  David  Davis,  Bloomington,  111. 
Mrs.  George  P.   Davis,  Bloomington,  111. 
Miss  Rose    Mary    Dobbins,   Woodworth. 

Ohio. 
Rev.  Jno.  A    Donelly,  S.  Natick,  Mass. 
Mr.  James  Dunstan,  Hancock,  Mich. 
Mrs.  Dunstan,  Hancock,  Alich. 
Miss  Nina  Dutton,  Boston,  Mass. 
Mr.  Henry  H.  Earl,  Fail  River,  Mass. 
Rev.  Rush  S.  Eastman,  Torrcsdale,  Pa. 
Rev.  Jno.  L.   Egbert,  Springfield,  Mass. 
Mr.   Henry  P.   Emerson,   Lynn,  Mass. 
Mrs.  Emerson,  Lynn,  Mass. 
Mr.  Joseph  Erhart,  Erie,  Pa. 
Mis5  Georgia  K.  Espcy,  Bloomingion,  111. 


*  Deceased 


3^0 


Officer  Zander 


Capt,  Nierich 


Surgeon  Ehebald 


8S  Mr.  John  F.  Falvey,  Boston,  Mass. 

89  Mrs.  Falvey,  Bcston,  Mass. 

90  Mr.  Owen  F.  Fatzinger,  Catasauqua,  Pa. 

91  Mrs.  Fatzinger,  Catasauqua,  Pa. 

92  Mr.  P.  B.  Finley,  Scranton,  Pa. 

93  Mrs  Finley,  Scranton,   Pa.* 

04  Mr.    Jacob    R.    Foster,    Shelburne    Falls, 
Mass. 

95  Mr.  Albert  F.  Fox,  Washington,  D.  C. 

96  Mrs.  Fo.x,  Washington,  D.  C. 

97  Rev.  I.  M.  Gable,   Ph.D.,  Chester,  Pa. 

98  Hon.  Jno.  B.  Gale,  LL.D. ,  Wiiliam^town, 

Mass. 

99  Mrs.    Gale,   Williamstown,    Mass. 

100  Miss  Mary  A.  Gardner.  Fall  River,  Mass. 
loi  Mr.  G.  W.  Garrels,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

102  Mrs.  Garrels,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

103  Miss  Cora  Garrels,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

104  D.  P.  Gerberich,  M.  D  ,  Lebanon,  Pa. 

105  Mr.  James   Gibson,  Jr..   New  York  City. 

N.  Y. 

106  Mrs.  Gibson,  New  York  City,   N.  Y. 

107  Mr.  Rodney  Gibson,  New  York  City,  N.Y. 

108  Master  Jno.   Bancker    Gribbel,  Wyncote. 

Pa. 

109  Mr.  Fred  Grumme,  Marshalllown,  Iowa, 
no  Mrs.  Grumme,   Marshalltown.  Iowa. 

111  W.  R    Hamilton,  M.U  ,  Pittsburgh,  Pa. 

112  Mrs.  Hamilton,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

113  Miss  Mary  L.  Hanna,  Bloomington,  111. 

114  Mr.  S.  H.  Harrington,  Chicago,  111. 

115  Miss  Mary  H.  Hayes,  Unadilla,  N.  Y. 

116  Miss  Minerva  H.  Hayes,  Unadilla,  N.  Y. 

117  Mr.  Richard  Heagany,  Hartford  City,  Ind. 

118  Rev.  Edw.  Yates  Hill,  Warsaw,  Ind. 

119  Mr.  W.  C.  Hill,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

120  Mrs.  Mary  H.  Hoagland,  Franklin  Park. 

N.J. 


21  Rev.  Peyton  II.  Hoge,  D  D.,  Lecturer, 

Wilmington,  N.  C. 

22  Miss    Bertlia    R.    Houghton,    Worcester, 

Mass.f 

23  Miss   Clara   M.   Huchendorf,   Atlantic, 

Iowa. 

24  Mr.  E.  Huchendorf,  Atlantic,  Iowa. 

25  Miss  Katherine  Hun,  Albany,   N.  Y. 
2(5  Miss  I.ydia  I,.   Hun.  Albany,  N.  Y.      , 

27  Mr.  Jolin  Hunter,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

28  Rev.  W.  A.   Hutchison.    I). D.,    Lecturer, 

Jackson,  Ohio. 

29  Mr.  Wm.  S.  Hutchings,  Moosic,  Pa. 

30  Miss  Charlotte  D.  Irish,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 
.51   Mr.  W.  B.  Isham,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 
3.2  Mr.  Isaac  M.  Jackson,  Plynioulh,  j\Iass. 

33  Mr.    George   W.   Jenks,    Shelburne   Falls, 

Mass. 

34  Mr.   Robt.  Jenkins,  Jr.,   Pittsburg,    Pa. 

35  Mrs.  Jenkins,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

36  Air.  Jos.  J.  Jerniyn,  Scranton,  Pa. 

37  Mr.  James  Jones,  Philadelphia.  Pa. 

38  Dr.  A.  T.  Kechlcr,  Columbus,  Ohio. 
,39  Mr,  Patrick  J.  Keenan,  Boston,  Mass. 

40  Mr.  E.  H.  Kendall,  New  Yoik  City,  N.  Y 

41  Mrs.  Kendall,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 

42  Miss  Elizabeth  E.  Kennedy,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

43  Mr.  Joseph  Krotz,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

44  .\lr.  John  c;.  Lane,  Philadelphia,  Pa.* 

4li  Mr.  Walter  Learned,  New  London,  Conn. 

46  Mrs.  Learned,  New  London,  Conn. 

47  Rev.  Joseph  Lee,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y. 

48  Mr.   G.   E.   Lcighton,  Boston,   Mass. 
40  Mr.  Wni.  Lindig.  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

50  Mrs.  A.   R.  Looniis,  Fort  Dodge,  Iowa. 

51  Miss  Bertha  Loomis,  Fort  Dodge,  Iowa. 

52  Mr.   Edgar  A.  Lord,  Chicago,  111. 

53  Miss  Mary  B.  Lord,  Chicago,  111. 
51  Mrs.  H.  C.  Luce,  Bloomington,  111. 

55  Mr.   Henry  J.  Lutcher,  Orange,  Texa;^. 

56  Mrs.  Lutcher,  Orange,  Texas. 

57  Mr.  Jno.  B.  Luther,  Fall  River,  Mass. 


*  Deceased 
t  Married 


322 


OUR  FOREIGN  LECTURERS 


O 


Consul  Wallace         Prof,  van  Millingen  Prof.  Chase  Prof.  Reynaud 


158 

159 
i6j 
161 
162 
163 
164 
i6s 
166 
167 
168 
169 
170 

171 

172 
17.3 

174 
175 

176 

■77 
178 
179 

180 
181 

182 

18,3 

184 
i8s 
186 
187 


Rev.     Alfred     J.    P.    McClure,     Lecturer, 
Wyncote,  Pa 

Mrs.  Alfred  J.  P.  McCIure,  Wyncote,  Pa. 

Master  Jay  Cook  McClure,  Wyncote,  Pa. 

Master  Alfred  McClure,  Jr.,  Wyncote,  Pa. 

Mr.   H.  C.   McClure,   Gibson   City,   111. 

Mrs.   McClure,  Gibson  City,  111. 

Rev.  P.  E.  McCorry.  Goshen.  N.  Y. 

Mr.   Chas.   A.   McFeely,   Pittsburg,   Pa. 

Mrs.  McFeely,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 

Miss  Olive  B.  McFeely,  Pittsburg.   Pa. 

Mr.  C.  H.  Mclntire,  Newark,  N.  J. 

Mrs.  Mclntire,  Newark,  N.  J. 

Mrs.    David    Mcintosh,    Jamaica    Plains, 
Boston,  Mass. 

Mr.  Russell  W.  McKee.  New  York  City, 
N.  Y. 

Mrs   McKee,  New  York  City,  N    Y.* 

Mr.   Henrv   B.   McKee,   New  York   City, 
N.  Y. 

Miss  Ella  McKee,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 
Mrs.  Lydia  T.   McKee,  San  Jose,  Cal. 
Miss  Catherine  C.  McKee,  Pittsburg,  Pa. 
H.  McLean,  M.  D.,   I  hiladelphia.  Pa. 
Mr.  Wm.  J.  McMullin.  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
Mr.  Allen    McPherson,    Longford    Mills, 
Canada. 

Miss  Louise  McVey,  Binghamplon,  N.  Y 
Rev.    Thos.    S.    McWilliams,    Montreal, 
Canada. 

Mr.  Wni.  A.   Mahonev,   New  York  City, 
N.  Y. 

Miss    Prcstonia    Mann,    New   York    Citv. 

N.  Y. 
Miss  A.  M.   Manning,  Hartford,  Conn. 
Mr.  Joseph   Markward,   Ironton,   Ohio. 
Mr.  Joseph  H.  Marr,  Hamilton,   Ohio. 
Mrs.   Marr,   Hamilton,   Ohio. 


Deceased 


323 


nf 


O 


«^  1 

\ 

} 

jjiS 

b 

1 

1 

^^ 

^^^ 

'-1 

^ 


^ 


OUR  CONDUCTORS 

ilfr.  Leon  L.  Coll'ver 

Mr.  Frank  C.  Cta.rk 

Mr.  Herman  Hornstem 

Mr.  L.  Lewis 


i88  Mr.  Charles  M.  Martin,  Norwich,  N.  Y. 
l?0  Mr.  Cyrus  B.  Martin,  Norwich,  N.  Y. 
igo  Mr.  M.  D.  Martin.  York,  Pa. 
igi   Mrs.  M.  D.  Martin,  York,  Pa. 
igj  Mr.  J.  B.  Mauser,  Treichlers,  Pa. 
19.3  Mrs.  Mauser,  Treichlers,  Pa. 

194  Miss  Edith  E.  Melluish,  Bloomington,  111. 

195  Mrs.  S.  T.  Meservey,  Fort  Dodge,  Iowa, 
igo  Mr.  Franklin  Miles,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 
197  Mrs.  Miles,  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

ig8  Mr.  L.  B.  Miller,  Elizabethporr,  N.  J 

199  Miss  A.^H.  Miller,  Elizabethport,  N.  J. 

200  Hon.  B.  B.  Mitchell,  Troy,  Pa. 

201  Mrs.  Mitchell,  Troy,  Pa. 

202  Mrs.  Jas.  E.  Mitchell,  Philadelphia.  Pa. 
20.5  Miss  Mitchell,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

204  Mrs.   Sarah  A.   Morgan,  Pittsburg,   Pa. 
20s  Mr.  James  T.  Morrison.  Ithaca,  N.  Y. 

206  Mr.  George  H.  Morrill,  Boston,  Mass. 

207  Mrs.  Morrill,  Boston,  Mass. 

208  Mr.  Wni.   F.  Morris,  Baldwinsville,  N.  Y. 

209  Rev.  H.  J.  Mulligan,  Chelsea,  Mass. 

210  Rev.  Wm.  F.  Murphy,  Conneaut,  Ohio. 


•—     y 


3»4 


211  Miss  Julia  A.  Nelson,  Allegheny,  Pa. 

212  Miss  Margaret  L.  Nelson,  Allegheny,  Pa. 
21.3  Mrs.  J.  A.  Nipgen,  Chillicothe,  Ohio. 

214  Mr.  James  Nolan,  Reading,  Pa. 

215  Hon.  Crosby  S.  Noyes,  Washington,  U.  C 

216  Miss  Amy  L.  Opel,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

217  Hon.  Cbase   S.   Osborne,  Sault  deSainte 

Marie,  Mich. 

218  Prof.  Samuel  R.  Park,  Easton,  Pa. 

219  Rev.  J.  G.   Patton,  Decatur,  Ga. 

220  Rev.  J.  H.  Patton,  Mariette,  Ga. 

221  Dr.   E.   Treat   Payne,    Noroton    Heights, 

Conn. 

222  Mrs.  Payne,  Noroton  Heights,  Conn. 

223  Miss    Georgia   M.    Penfield,    New    York 

224  Mrs.  Isaac  N.  Phillips,  Bloomington,  111. 

225  Mr.  Fred.  I.  Pratt,  Boston,  Mass. 

226  Mrs.  Pratt,  Boston,  Mass. 

227  Silas  D.  Presbrey,  M.  D.,  Taunton,  Mass. 

228  Miss  Clara  B.  Presbrey,  Taunton,  Mass. 

229  Miss    Florence    N.    Presbrey,    Taunton, 

Mass. 

230  Rev.  Stephen  A.  Preisser,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

231  Mr.  H.  C.  Price,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

232  Mr.  C.  H.  Raiter,  Alexandria,  Minn. 

233  Mrs.  Raiter,  Alexandria,  Minn. 

234  Miss  Kate  G.  Rea,  Danville,  Pa. 
23s  Mr.  F.  S.  Read,  Chicago,  111. 


5»5 


2,?6  Mr,  Eli  S.  Reinholcl,  Mahanoy  City,  Pa. 
2XJ  Miss  Carrie  S.   Reinoehl.   Mahanoy  City, 

Pa. 
238  Mis.s  Lvdia  Wistar  Rlioads,  Philadelnhia. 

Pa. 
231)  Mr.  D.  A.  Ricliaidson,  Cambridge,  Mass. 

240  Mr.  Win.  Ciuiiniings  Richardson,  Boston. 

Mass. 

241  Rev.  G.  H.  Rieken,  Perry sburg,  Ohio. 

242  Mr.    George   S.    Ringland,    Fort    Dodge, 

Iowa. 

243  Mrs.  Ringland,  Fort  Dodge,  Iowa. 

244  Miss  J.  M.  Ringland,  Fort  Dodge,  Iowa. 

245  Rev.    C.   S.    Robinson,   D.D.,    New   York- 

City,  N.  Y  * 

246  y\r.  Jno.  R.  Rogers,  Decatnr,  111. 

247  Miss  Jeanette  Rogers,  Decatur,  111. 

248  Rev.  Peter  Ronan.  Boston,  Mass. 

249  Mr.  Sebation  Roth,  Buffalo,  N.  Y. 

250  Miss     Laura     L.     Ruddle.     East     Mauch 

Chunk,  Pa. 

251  Mr.  S  W.  Rudolph,  I'hiladelphia,  Pa.* 

252  Mrs.  Rudolph,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
25.3  Mrs.  M.  Rumsey,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 
25.).  Miss  Marian  Rumsey,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

255  Miss  Elma  Rumsey,  St.  Louis,  Mo. 

256  Mr.  J.  J.  Russell,  Jefferson,  Iowa. 

257  Mrs.   Russell,  Jefferson,  Iowa. 

258  Miss   Helen  Russell,  Jefferson,  Iowa. 

259  Mr.  Harry  Ryrie,  Toronto,  Ont. 

260  Mrs.  Harry  Ryrie,  Toronto,  Ont. 


*  Deceased 


336 


26i  Rev.  J.  H.  Sankey.  Rochester,  N.  Y. 

262  Mr.  George  Schleicher,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 

263  Rev.  Jos.  .Schmitt,  Ironton,  Ohio. 

264  Mrs.   Matthew  T.  Scott,  Parson,  Kan. 
263  Mr.  E.  U.  Scoville,  Manlius,  N.  Y. 

266  Mrs.  Scoville,  Manlius,  N.  Y. 

267  Col.  A.  Frank  Seltzer,  Lebanon,  Pa 

268  Mr,  Geo.  D.  Selden,  Krie,  Pa. 

269  Mrs.  Selden,  Erie,  Pa. 

270  Miss  Selden,  Erie,  Pa. 

271  Master  Selden,  Erie,  Pa. 

272  Mr.  D.  S.  Shellabarger,   Decatur,   111, 
27,3  Mrs,  Shellabarger,  Decatur,  111, 

274  Mr.  James  G.  Shepherd,  Scranton,  Pa. 

275  Henry   C,  Shurtleff,  M.  D.,  Philadelphia, 

Pa. 

276  Mr.  Stanley  Sills,  New  York  City,  N.  Y.f 

277  Mr.  Charles  P.  Skinner,  Ottawa,  Kan,* 

278  Miss  Laura  A,  Skinner,  Westficld,  N.  Y. 
270  Mr,  J,  C,  F,  Slayton.  Boston,  Mass, 

280  Mr,  A,  H,  Slayton,  Morrisville,  Vt. 

281  Miss  Josephine  Slayton,  Morrisville,  Yl. 

282  Miss  Melhe  M.  Slayton,  Morrisville,  Vt. 

283  Miss  Olive  ^L  Slayton,  Manchester,  N,  H 

284  Mr,  Arthur  J,  Smith,  Philadelphia,  Pa. 
28.5  Mr.   Daniel   R,   Smith,  Adams,   Mass. 

286  Mrs.  D.  R.  Smith,  Adams,  Mass. 

287  Miss  Mary  A.  Smith,  Boston,  Mass, 

288  Mr.  Frederick  \Vm.  Smith,  Binghampton 

N,  Y, 

289  Hon,  Geo.  Waldo  Smith,  New  York  City 

N.  Y, 

290  Mrs.  Smith,  New  York  City,  N.  Y. 

291  Miss    Lily    L.    Smith,    New    York    City, 

N.  Y.f 

292  Mr.   Waldo   Smith.  Jr.,    New   York   City 

N.  Y. 


*  Deceased 
t  Married 


3»7 


i:% 


293  Mr   Chas.  W.  Snow,  Syracuse,  N.  Y. 

294  Miss  Carrie  L.  Snow,  Syracuse,  N.  Y.f 

295  Mr.  Jno.  B.  Speers,  Pine  Bluff,  Ark. 

2q6  Rev.  G.  C.  Spencer,  New  Milford,  Conn. 

297  Miss  Mary  A.  Stalir,  Norristown,  Pa. 

298  Mr.  M.  B.  Staley,  South  Bend,  Ind. 

299  Mrs.   Staley,   South  Bend,  Ind. 

.300  Mr.  Arthur  C.  Staples,  Taunton,  Mass. 

301  Rev.  Wm.  J.  Steans,  Danville,  Pa. 

302  Mrs.   Steans,   Danville,   Pa. 

.303  Mr.  Chas.  O.  Stearns,  Boston,  Mass. 

304  Mr.  J.   H.  Sternbergh,  Reading,  Pa. 

305  Master   J.    Harvey    Sternbergh,    Reading, 

Pa. 

306  Mr.  E.  M.  Stiles,  Paterson,  N.  J. 

307  Mrs.  Stiles,  Paterson,  N.  J. 

.308  Mr.  Harry  G.  Stimmell,  Spokane,  Wash. 

309  Mrs.  Stimmell,  Spokane,  Wash. 

310  Miss  Stimmell,  Spokane,  Wash. 

311  Rev.  E.  W.  Stoddard,  D.D.,  Succasunna, 

N.J. 

312  Mrs.  Stoddard,  Succasunna,  N.  J. 

313  Mr.  Jno.  W.  Stoddard,  Dayton,  Ohio. 

314  Mrs.  Stoddard,  Dayton,  Ohio. 

315  Miss  Alice  Stoddard,  Dayton,  Ohio. f 

316  Miss  Florence  Stoddard,  Dayton,  Ohio. 

317  Mr.   Gustave  Sues,   Boston,  Mass. 

318  Mrs.  Gustave  Sues,  Boston,  Mass. 

319  Mr.  Harry  Swisher,  Newark,  Ohio. 

320  Mr.  W.  B.  Tisdale,  Orillia,  Ont. 


f  Married 


3j8 


321  Mr.  Wm.  Thompson,  Butte,  Mont. 

322  Mr.    Geo.    Townsend,    New    York    Citv, 

N.  Y. 

323  Mrs.  M.  L.  Townsend,  New  York  City, 

N.  Y. 

324  Rev.  J.  H.  Tuohy,  Lincoln,  III. 

325  Mr.  Albert  H.  Upton,  Adams,  Mass. 

326  Miss  Agnes  Van    Valkenburg,   Hartford 

City,  Ind. 

327  Rev.  Michael  Vollmeyer,  Custer,  Ohio. 

328  Mr.  Ed.  Voris,  Crawfordsville,  Ind. 

329  Mrs.  Voris.  Crawfordsville,  Ind. 
.330  Rev.  Daniel  S.  Walsh,  Butler,  Pa. 

331  Mr.   Edgar  W.   Warren,    Newton    High- 
lands, Mass. 
33^  Mrs.  Warren,  Newton  Highlands,   Mass. 
333  Mr.  John  Warner,  Clinton,  111. 
.3,34  Miss  Warner,  Clinton,  III. 

335  Miss  Mary  A.  Watts,  Manchester,  N.  H. 

336  Mr.  Buck  Weems,  Decatur,  111. 

337  Mr.  James  Wherry,  Allegheny,  Pa. 

338  Mr.  Benj.  Whitman,  Erie,  Pa. 

339  Rev.  Geo.  Whitman,  D.D.,  Buflfalo,  N.  Y. 

340  Miss  Hattie  S.  Williams,  Taunton,  Mass. 

341  Miss    Janie     R.     Williams,     Fayetteville 

N.  C. 

342  Miss  Martha  Williams,  Wilmington,  N.  C. 

343  Mr.  Jas.  P.  Wint,  Catasauqua,  Pa. 

344  Mr.  C.  D.  Winter,  Jermyn,  Pa. 

345  Hon.  Harry  R.  Wilson,  Claiion,  Pa. 

346  Mrs.  Harry  R.  Wilson,  Clarion.  Pa. 

347  Mr.  O.  J.  Woodward,  Fresno,  Cal. 

348  Mrs.  Woodward,  Fresno,  Cal. 

349  Miss  Abbie  Woodward,  Fresno,  Cal. 
/350  Miss    Clare    G.    Wolcott,    Longmeadow, 

Mass. 


yd 


3'9 


GOOD  "BYE 


330 


INDEX 


/  o<aie  my  cousin.  Prof.  Park,  Mr.  Archbold,  Mr.  Spencer  and  Miss  A. 
special  thanks  for  cle'ver,  amusing  and  informing  contributions  unpaged 
in  this  index.     Matter  unattributed  and  unquoted  is  the  compiler's. 


PACE 

Abell,  W.  Maitland,  LL.  M 1 1 

Acre    94 

Aegean  and  Marmora  Seas   246 

Alderman,  Pres.  Edwin  A 105 

Alexandria 128 

Algiers,   History  of    73-74 

Arab  Quarters 76 

Beggars    78 

French  Control y^ 

Geronimo,  Martyrdom  of 75 

Winter  Resort    75 

Alhambra   55  to  68 

Abencerrages  Hall,  Tragedv  of.. 59,  60 

Alhamar    61,  62,  63 

Alhambra,  by  Whom  Built 60,  61 

Charles  V,  Palace  of  66,  94,  95 

Court  of  Lions    59.  67 

Duke  of  Wellington 67 

Ferdinand  of  Aragon  65 

Isabella,  Queen  of  Castile   65 

Perfumery  Room  60 

Saracens,  The    61 

Washington  Irving  S6,  63 

Aller's  Log   311,  313 

Amusements    33 

Ring  Toss   33 

Shuffle  Board   33 

Appian   Way,   The    283 

Archbold,  C.  W Here  and  there 

Athens    264 

Academies  of  Plato  and  Aristotle.   269 

Acropolis   267 

American  School,  The  269 

Athens    More    Familiarly    273 

Averoff,  Public  Spirit  of 271 

Emperor  Hadrian's  Additions  ....  270 

Erectheum  265,  268 

George  I,  Present  King 272 

Greek  People,  Characteristics  of.   273 

Hill  oi  the  Muses 266 

Historic  Sketch  of  Athens 264 

Lyceum  on  the  Slopes  of  Lycabettus  269 

National  Museum    270 

Otho   of    Bavaria,    First    King   of 

Modern  Greece 272 

Parthenon    265,  267  to  272 

881 


Pentelicon,  Marble  Quarries  of  . . .  267 

Piraeus 266,  273 

Pnyx,  Hill  of  the  Nymphs 266 

Propylae    268 

Road  from  Piraeus  to  Athens  ....  273 

Stadion,  The 270 

Temple  of  Athena  265 

Theseum    268 

Unknown    God,    Preaching   of    by 

St.  Paul   271 

Asia  Minor   223 

Azores  and  Portugal 37 

Columbus  39,  66 

Flemish   Navigators    38 

Mt.   Pico    38,  297 

Balls   43 

Band,  The 26 

Beatty,  H.  L 165 

Beirut  223 

Bibliographies  of 

Algiers   73 

Azores  and  Portugal   37 

Constantinople    245 

Egypt    123.  124,  125 

Ephesus,  Smyrna,  Damascus 223 

Gibraltar,      Alhambra,      Granada, 

Moors   47 

Greece    263,  264 

Italy    109 

Malta    89 

Mediterranean  Region  in  General     23 

Plan  of  Bibliographies  11 

Rome    277 

Syria,  Jerusalem,  etc 169,  170 

Black  Sea   247 

Bliss,  Dr.  Daniel   224 

Bosphorus    247,  258.  259,  298 

Buckley,  Dr.  J.  M 143 

Bugle    Calls    29 

Bulletin  Board   43 

Cairo    140 

Captain's  Dinner  Card   304 

Character  of  Allerites 9 

Character  of  People   9 

Chase,  Prof.  Geo.  A 273 


332 


Index 


PAGE 

Citta    Vecchia    92,97,100 

Cleopatra  Needles  134 

Coal  Required 24 

Courtesy  of  Dr.  Bliss  and  Faculty. . . .  224 

Colosseum,  The   280 

Concert  Programs  66,  294,  304 

Conductors  and  Officers   311 

Constantinople    245 

Aegean  and  Marmora  Seas 246 

Art  Treasures  of  Constantinople, 

255.  258 

Black  Sea   247 

Bosphorus    247,  258,  259,  298 

Dardanelles  246,  298 

Director  Hamdi  Bey   255,256 

Dogs  of  Constantinople .248,  254 

Eastern  Question,  The  ...252,253,254 

Golden  Horn,  The 249,  250,  298 

Hero,  Priestess  of  Venus 246 

Influence  of  Constantinople  ..251,252 
Leander  Swims  the  Hellespont. 246,  298 
Lord  Byron's  Imitation  of  Leander  246 

Museum  of  Antiquities 255 

Professor  Long 249 

Professor  Van  Millingen  .  .248,  249,  251 

Robert  College  258,  259 

Saint  Sophia,  Mosque  of 249 

Sarcophagus     of     Alexander     the 

Great  256  to  258 

Craft's  Retrospective  Rhymes 305,  306 

Cruise,  Cruisers  and  Cruisin'  Things, 

by  the  Compiler 24  to  32 

Damascus    225 

Bazaars    228 

Houses   226,  227 

Pharphar  and  Barada  Rivers  ....  226 

Railway  to 226 

Dead  Sea 173,  204,  205 

Dimensions  of  Ship 24 

Dogs  of  Constantinople  248,  254 

Eastern  Question,  The    252,253,254 

Eating  and  Digesting   27,  29 

Edwards,    Miss.      A    Thousand    Miles 

up  the  Nile  .'....    141 

Eggs  and  Chickens  30 

Egypt    123 

Age  of  Women   i^^ 

Alabaster  Mosque   . 145 

Alexandria    128 

Architecture,    Character    of 130 

Bedrashen    158 

Buckley,  Dr 143 

Cairo 140 

Chefron    149 

Cheops  the  Great    148  to  149 

Citadel,  When  Built  and  by  Whom  144 


PAGE 

Cleopatra  Needles 134 

Delta 145 

Edwards,  Miss  141 

Eidersheim    161 

Erman    129,  133 

Famous  Students  and  Philosophers  129 

Father   Nile    137 

General  Gordon  138 

General  Grant  on  Egypt  128 

Gizeh    Museum    156,  158 

Gizeh,   Pyramids  of    145  to  150 

Heleopolis    160 

Hieroglyphics   160 

Incident  on  the  Way  to  Thebes  . .    162 

Khartoum    138 

Khedive,  Palace  146 

Land  of  the  Nile  and  the  Pharaohs. 

A  Lecture,  by  the  Compiler  126  to  161 

Luxor   157 

Mameluke  Beys   144 

Mariette  Bey 133,  149,  156,  150 

Memphis    158 

Mohammed  Ali 144 

Mosque,  Character  of 145 

Muezzin  Call    146,  181 

Nile   Bridge    146 

Nile,  Length  of  136 

Nile,  Overflow  of 137 

Nileometer,  The 137 

Nubians  at  Luxor  164 

"Old  Glory" 135 

Oldest  Human  Works   130 

Pharos,  The   127 

Piers,  Magnificent  Stone  135 

Pompey's  Pillar   127 

Program  for  Egypt 126 

Pyramids  as  Cemeteries 148 

Pyramids,  Dimensions  of   ....150,155 

Rameses  II   156,  160 

Robinson,  Dr 133,  158,  301 

Rosetta   Stone    131 

Sacred  Bulls,  Apis  Tombs 160 

Sakeiyah    139 

Sakkara,  Pyramids  of   145 

Scarabi  as  Discoverers 157 

Seti  I  and  Rameses  II.    Discovery 

of 132,  160 

Shadoof,  The   139 

Sources   of   Information    131 

Sphinx,  Location  of  146 

Sphinx,    Ride   to    151  to  154 

Step    Pyramid    160 

Streets  of  Cairo.     Motley  Crowd 

141,  142 

Ti,  Tomb  of   160 

University  of  On 160 


Index 


333 


PAGE 

Egypt —  Continued 

Vegetation 138 

View  from  Mosque  of  Mohammed 

AH 145 

Water  Jars   142 

Vvorld's   University,   The    129 

Writing,  Interpretation  of 132 

Yashmak    141 

Eidersheim,  Dr.  Alfred 161 

Erman,  Dr.  Adolf 129,  133 

Esdraelon,   Plains  of    216 

Ephesus    231,  232,  234,  240 

Diana     of     the     Ephesians     and 

Artemis    234,  238 

Famous  Names  and  Associations. .  232 

Justinian's   Church    240 

Maeander   River    233 

Mob  of  Ephesus 238 

Rugs,  Drugs  and  Figs 233 

Saint  John  and  Ephesus   239 

Saint  Paul's  Advent  and  Influence 

237.  238 

Seven  Sleepers  Cave 232 

Temple  of  Diana  231,  236 

Woods'  Researches  231,  235 

Father  Nile 137 

First  Breakfast,  The 18 

Forum,  The 284 

Food   29,  314 

Fourth  Officer 32 

Gibraltar,   Alhambra   and   the   Moors. 

A  Lecture,  by  the  Compiler.  .48  to  68 

Apes  of  Gibraltar 52 

British  Lion,  The 50 

Expense  to  England  51 

Gebal-el-Taric    50 

History   of    <^\ 

Mixed  Population  of   52 

Phoenicians,   The    50 

Sprague,  Horatio  J 54 

Verses  Carved  on  Sentry  Box  ....     47 

Waterport  Ticket    47 

Gizeh  Museum  156,  158 

Good  Bye    330 

Granada  55 

Cathedral  of  65,  68 

Time  Table,  Granada  to  Malaga. .     70 

Grand  Masters  of  Malta   94, 96 

Hoboken    17 

Hodge,  Rev.  Peyton  H.,  D.D 240 

Horse-back  Trip  Throup^h  Samaria  and 

Galilee 206  to  219 

Cana  of  Galilee 217 

Dothan   215 

Esdraelon,  Plains  of 216 

Gibeah    209 


PAGE 

Haifa    219 

Last  View  of  Jerusalem 208 

Mizpah   210 

Mount  Gerizim 212 

Nablous,  Shechem  212,  213 

Nazareth 217 

Ramah 210 

Samaritan  Pentateuch    213 

Sea  of  Galilee   218 

Selecting  Horses 206 

Shiloh  210 

Hutchinson,  Rev.  W.  A.,  D.D 97,  219 

"In  a  Moment  of  Exhilaration" loi 

"In  the  Glooming" 22 

Incident  on  the  Way  to  Thebes 162 

Index    331 

Infatuation  of  Travel 317 

Irreverent  Donkey  at  Olivet 195 

Italy 109 

Jaffa  Episode   171 

Jerusalem  and  the   Land   of   Promise. 

A  Lecture   173 

American  Friends  Schools   190 

Amusements    182 

Armenians  190 

Bells  of  Churches  181 

Boys'  Schools  190 

Brook  Cherith    203 

Character  of  Country 178 

Church  Missionary  Society 190 

Church  of  England  190 

Church  of  Holy  Sepulchre  .  . .  181,  298 

Climate    I73.  I7S 

Damascus  Gate    179,  196 

Dead  Sea 173,  204,  205 

El  Aksa  Mosque 181 

Evangelical  Germans   191 

Filth    176,  177,  180 

German  Lepers  Hospital 191 

House  of  the  Good  Samaritan  ....   203 

Houses   179 

Jaffa  Gate   179,  184 

Jordan  and  Dead  Sea,  Trip  to ... . 

202,  206,  297 

Jordan  Valley 173 

Leprosy    191 

Lighting  of   182 

Local  Government 182 

London  Jews  Society 190 

Masonic  Lodge  at  Jerusalem  ....   201 

Missionary  Work 18S,    189 

New  Jerusalem    183 

Population 185 

Prophecy,     Possibility    of    Fulfill- 
ment     192,  194 

Quarries  of  Solomon 196 


334 


Index 


PAGE 

Jerusa'em  and  the  Land  of  Promise. — 
Continued 

Resources  of  Land 193 

Russian  Pilgrims   203 

Statistics  and  Buildings  of  Various 

Christian   Bodies   186,  189 

Stores  180 

Streets    jyo 

Synagogue  of  Khal  Stamboul 181 

Ticket  to  Pool  of  Bethesda 201 

United  States  Consulate 183 

Walls    184,  185 

Water  178 

Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea 202 

Kipling    9,  12,  302 

Knights  of  St.  John 93 

Land  of  the   Nile  and  the  Pharaohs. 

A  Lecture   126 

Lincoln's  Birthday 39,  40 

Logs,  Nautical,  Edible  and  Social 297 

Address    of    Geo.    Waldo    Smith 
Upon  Presentation  of  Watch  and 

Purses  to  Officers 297 

Captain's  Dinner  Menu  Card 304 

Concert  Programme,  Last  Evening 

on  Vessel 304 

Conductors  and  Officers,  List  of..  311 

Craft's  Retrospective  Rhymes 305 

Edible  Log,  Provisions 314 

Good  Bye 330 

Index    331 

Infatuation  of  Travel  317 

Last  Bulletin  Posted 313 

Map  of  Route  316 

Nearing  Home  and   Last   Experi- 
ences    307 

Obituaries    301,  302 

Passenger  List   319 

Pictures  of  Passengers 319,  329 

Provisioning  of  Ship 314 

Resolutions  of  Appreciation  . .  .300,  301 

Route  Map 316 

Sailing  Chart 317 

Value  of  Travel  317 

Voices  from  the  Engine  Room ....   302 

Long,  Vice-Pres.  Albert  L 249 

Lost  and  Found  30 

Malaga  54,  68,  69 

Sierra  Nevadas 55 

Spanish  People,  High  and  Low. . .     54 

Malta    89 

A  Lecture  Delivered  on  Shipboard     89 

Acre    94 

Baldwin,  King  of  Jerusalem 94 

Birthplace  of  Hannibal,  Menander, 

Aulus  Licinius   92 

Catacombs,  The 99 


PAGE 

Cathedral  of  St.  Paul 98 

Charles  V   94,  95 

Citta  Vecchia  92,  97,  100 

Dogs,  Maltese 99 

Faldetta,  The   96,  09 

Grand  Masters,  The  94,  96 

Keys     of    Jerusalem,     Acre     and 

Rhodes   96 

Knights  of  St.  John 93 

Napoleon  Bonaparte  96,  07,  100 

Peter  Girard  94 

Peter  the  Hermit    94 

Railway  Ticket 97 

Richard  Coeur  de  Lion 94 

St.  John,  Cathedral  of 96 

St.  Paul's  Bay 100 

St.  Paul's  Shipwreck   93 

Shrove  Tuesday 99 

Tapestries,  The    96 

Valetta   91 

Map 316 

Mariette  Bey 133,  149,  156,  159 

Masonic  Lodge  at  Jerusalem   201 

Masonic  Meeting  in  Quarries  of  Solo- 
mon       197 

Masonic  Traditions 196 

Memphis 158 

Menus 19,  21,  28,  79 

Michael  Angelo   278,  289 

Mock  Trial  of  Dr.  Hamilton  .  . .  .240  to  242 

Lioney 3 1 ,  32 

Mount  Aetna 117 

Muezzin  Call 146,  181 

Naples Ill 

King  Humbert's  Palace 1 1 1 

Pompeii 119 

Scylla  and  Charybdis 1 17 

Streets  of  Naples,  The 112 

Stromboli  117 

Ticket  to  Vesuvius 117,  118 

Up  Vesuvius  on  Donkey  Back  ....    118 

Vesuvius,  Eruption  of 120 

Vesuvius,  The  Ride  to 1 13,  1 14 

Nearing  Home  and  Last  Experiences.  .   307 

Nierich,  Captain 25,  299,  310 

Obituaries 301,  302 

Officers  and  Crew 26,  27,  299,  311 

Orders  for  the  Day 

Alhambra  Trip  66 

Egypt,  Program  126 

Malta  Excursion 89 

Naples  Excursion   iii 

Osburn,  Chase  S 201 

Pantheon,  The 278 

Park,  Prof Here  and  there 


Index 


335 


PAGE 

Parting  Words  13 

Passengers  and  Officers  ...  .24,  27,  31 1,  319 

Pennsylvania  Day  79 

Address  of  Col  Seltzer 79 

Address  of  Maj.  Reinhold 85 

Philadelphia  Statistics   83 

Pictures  of  Passengers 319,  329 

Pillars  of  Hercules   41,  5° 

Point  St.  Vincent   40 

Pompeii 290 

Portugal,  Coast  of 40 

Roman  Sails  41 

Sea  Gulls 41 

Preface 9 

Presents  to  Captain  and  Officers 25,  297 

Provisioning  of  Ship   27,  314 

Pyramids    145  to  150 

Rameses  II 156,  160 

Raphael    278,  289 

Reinhold,  Address  of  85 

Remedies  for  Seasickness  22 

Resolutions  of  Appreciation   300,  301 

Ride  Through  Samaria  and  Galilee 

206  to  219 

Robert  College  258,  259 

Robinson,  Dr.  C.  S 133.  158,  302 

Rome    278 

Appian  Way,  The  283 

Baptism  in  Lateran 292 

Baths  of  Caracalla,  The   292 

Capuchins,  The   292 

Castor  and  Pollux,  Statues  of 291 

Cloica  Maxima,  The  292 

Colosseum,  The 280  to  283 

Discoveries  of  M.  Chedanna  .  .270,279 

Forum,  The 284 

Forums  of  Cicero,  Casar,  Augustus, 
Nero,  Domitian,  Traian,  Vespa- 
sian and  of  the  Boarium 289 

Inscription  on  Portico  -f  Pantheon  278 

Jupiter  and  Juno,  Temples  of 291 

Musical  Doors  of  Lateran  Baptistry  292 

Pincian  Gardens    293 

Rostra,  The 286,  287,  288 

St.  John  Lateran  Church 291 

St.  Mary  of  the  Rotunda 279 

St.  Peters  Church   289 

Santa  Scala 291 


PAGE 

Tarpeon  Rock,  1  ne 291 

Temple  of  Venus,  The 289 

Tombs  of  Raphael  and  Victor  Em- 
manuel   II 279 

Vatican,  The 289 

Rome   of    To-day    and    Yesterday,    by 

John   Denny    280 

Rosetta  Stone  131 

Route  Map    316 

Rudolph,  S.  W 301 

St.  Sophia,  Mosque  of 249 

Sailing    Chart    31? 

Sakkara    i4S 

Samaria    206 

Sandy  Hook 17 

Screw,  Size  of 24 

Sea  Forms  Neither  Strange  nor  Curious     78 

Sea  of  Galilee 218 

Seat  Card 19 

Second  Day  at  Sea 20 

Seltzer,  Address  of  79 

Skinner,  C.  P 302 

Smith,  A.  J 70,  163 

Smith,  Geo.  Waldo,  Address  of 297 

Smyrna 229 

Spain    47 

Spencer,  Rev.  G.  C Here  and  there 

Sphinx    146 

Start,  The   i7 

Syrian  Protestant  College 224 

Table  Experiences,  Seasickness  and  the 

Like 21 

Up  Vesuvius  on  Donkey  Back 118 

Value  of  Travel  3^7 

Van  Millingen,  Prof.  Alexander 

248,249,251 

Vatican,  The 289 

Verses  Written  on  St.  Valentine's  Day.    42 

Voices  from  the  Engine  Room 302 

Wallace,  Consul  Edwin  S 195 

Washington  and  Ideals.     An  Oration 

102,  105 

Watch,  Presentation  of   297 

Water  3i.  178 

Wine  31 

Worshipful  Master  Kayat's  Address 

199,  200 


.--SQ'S'tf  9 


i^mi^^s^sm- 


